fbrc8-erin

Check and see which extruder you're using for you build plate adhesion (like the skirt). Have you updated the firmware since receiving the printer? Waiting for it to cool and then hitting the power switch is a good way to do it.

It sounds like we're both describing the same problem with different terms. This definitely looks like a "hard shift"/"missed steps" which different from "slanting/tilted" prints which are usually the result of a loose pulley set screw. A loose pulley would give you a gradual tilt rather than a hard shift. You can play with the travel speed, which is usually the highest speed since it's not tied to extrusion. I would try lowering it. The fact that you're only see the issue in one axis makes it more likely that it's hardware related rather than settings related. Definitely try lubricating the axes and check by feel to see if the Y axis is harder to move than the X. I would recommend updating the firmware and Cura versions. I recently worked on a printer that was still running it's original 2014 firmware...there have been a ton of changes since then.

Thanks @Dim3nsioneer. Bookmarked the page to add comments later.

I'd go ahead and change the coupler. Better safe than sorry, and it does look like it's got wear on it, even without heat discoloration.

I would LOVE to see PVA brim as the default when printing PLA/PVA. Please?

Can you share a picture of it? Just because it doesn't look burnt doesn't mean it's not worn out. The more subtle wear and tear signs are: * It's not round anymore * The opening at the bottom is wider than it used to be * Scraggly edges/lips that will catch the filament. How many print hours are on your printer? Maintenance --> Advanced --> Runtime Stats.

I use most of the Cura PVA settings on default--if you're not using 3.3.1, I do recommend updating because I think it's pretty dialed in. Things I do usually change: * PVA brim instead of PLA brim--if you can have your PVA printing directly to glass/PVA it will be sturdier than trying to print it on top of PLA * Horizontal Support Expansion--default is 3mm, but I usually like to look at the print in Layer view and see where the supports fall. If I can make the supports connect to each other/be more sturdy by increasing the horizontal expansion a little, I go ahead and do it. * Turn on Prime Tower--some of the earlier versions of Cura, the PLA/PVA adhesion on the prime tower was not as good as it could have been. However, 3.3.1 I haven't had any issues with the PLA/PVA prime towers. * Print PVA slow. I think 35mm/s sounds pretty good.

ER15 is a heater error; if the printer can't increase the temperature by X number of degrees in Y seconds (or maintain X temperature across Y seconds) it will present a heater error. Because the printhead is covered in filament, that filament is absorbing the heat that your printer is trying to pump into the brass, so it seems like it can't get to temperature because it's trying to heat too much material. Alternately, it's possible your heater wire is damaged, which would also cause the error. Regarding the bed screws falling out...that was probably the effect, not the cause of the issue. Was your active leveling on? If your active leveling is on and you active leveled before the print active leveling will only work if the springs and screws are already pretty tight, which makes them unlikely to fall out. However, if your print comes off the bed and goes into your printhead like it looks happened in your case, the hanging down part can hit the bed enough to make the screws loosen and fall out if unattended for a long time.

Nylon tends to be a bit rough on your TFM coupler. How many print hours since the last time you changed it out?

Hi, Bill, To confirm, you're seeing a hard shift like this picture below? This is a result of missed steps. If the printhead encounters resistance trying to move, the X (or Y) motor will miss steps/lose count and you'll see a shift--the printer counts all its steps based on the home position before printing. Normally if it happens once, I'd go ahead and lubricate your X and Y axes. You may also want to check your pulley and sliding block alignment. Also, when moving the printhead by hand, feel if one motor is giving you more resistance than the other one. If everything is lubricated, aligned, and your printhead doesn't feel hard to move by hand, it may be a one time glitch and usually doesn't come back. If you start seeing it across multiple prints after checking all of those things, then there may be a bigger issue at play.

I would store open PVA in a bag or plastic container with silica packs. It's the best way to keep the moisture out. Generally if you can tie a knot in the PVA, you're risking the PVA tying itself in a knot around your feeder. (This photo is from a particularly bad incident.) I keep meaning to make a video showing good PVA and both ways PVA can go bad. Do you have PLA? I generally find bending good PVA feels like bending PLA--you can break it when you bend it, but it doesn't just snap unexpectedly. I wouldn't recommend a file, but if you have a thin needle, you can try inserting that from the underside of the print core when it's hot. It might break up burnt material. Sometimes the hot and cold pulls have to be repeated multiple times to get it clear. The needle can help.

Is your active leveling on? Is the wrong height the same all the way across the print? Active leveling makes corrections through the first 20mm of Z-height (if I remember correctly), so if your bed isn't manually leveled well enough, you could end up with it the height being wrong on one end or the other.

Nice! Love the color too.

How long has your PVA been open? How have you been storing it? If you bend it how does it feel? There's two ways it can go bad--super flexible (humidity has gotten into it), or super brittle (too much heat). Have you tried a print core cleaning? There's been very few Print Cores that have ever come my way that I haven't been able to get clean with Ultimaker Cleaning filament, Nylon, or PC. With clean cores and good PVA it should print reliably. Generally the only reason I have PVA fails is usually if I know I'm using marginal PVA that's been left out, but I decide to risk it anyway. UM2+ nozzles can be changed out. I absolutely do not recommend changing out the nozzle on your UM3 Print Core; they're fragile and not really meant to be disassembled without the right tools, though I know some people here have done it. Disassembling it puts a fairly significant risk of breaking the double heat break, because it's fragile (so that the Teflon piece can stay cool).

With only 89 print hours on it, unless they've been printing in Carbon Fiber, the nozzle should still be perfect.

I agree with @gr5 on this one. If you want to print at that sort of volume per second with PLA and a .4 nozzle, you have to increase the temperature. As a result, overhangs won't look as good probably because of the cooling. Several years ago, @illuminarti wrote an extrusion test for the UM2 that lets you take the extrusion up to 10 cubic mm/s as a means of pinpointing the level of under-extrusion you're seeing. It takes you from 3 cubic mm to 10. However, you can only successfully get it printing at the upper levels if you're printing at 230 C, which is what we built into the gcode for that test. Increase your temperature, increase the nozzle size, or decrease the speed.

It's designed for 2.85mm filament. I'm not sure of the exact interior dimensions.

Have you tried a total reset of Cura Connect from your printer, @mediTEC? Definitely recommend it. It usually resolves Cura Connect issues. Another thing to consider might be completely uninstalling and reinstalling Cura on your computer, but I'd try the reset on the printer first.

I'm about to head out for now, but it was great getting to see everyone's questions. I had a lot of fun. If you have any additional questions, feel free to add them below. I'm around pretty regularly, and always happy to help.

When the Ultimaker 3 was first introduced, in order to cut back on lead time after there was a design change to the reel holder, printed reel holders went out with the some number of the first units produced.

Another one here from @kmanstudios: "Are the machines under a consistent upgrade to increase robustness? My UM3Es are a year apart and there is a difference between the two machines. One of the things is the printhead cable is a tad bit longer, allowing for less 'yank' or pull on the connector during operations. This seems to reduce printhead com errors. First machine ordered in November of 2016, received in January 2017 second machine ordered and received January 2018." Ultimaker is constantly working to improve the ease of use, reliability, and functionality of all of their machines. To this end, firmware undergoes regular updating, and new hardware may appear with minor changes over the course of months as well. We believe in constantly striving to improve all of the machines all the time based on real feedback we receive. Production, quality control, and tech support have a continuous line of communication.

@cjs Most of the printer is assembled by a single technician working at their desk, which is ESD safe. However, some parts of the printer are assembled separately ahead of time to help make the assembly process go more smoothly while the technician install it all into the printer. Many parts require specialized tooling and we have specialized pre-assembly areas set up with those parts and tools to keep the process as smooth as possible.

@kmanstudios asked, How does the Netherlands and North American manufacture offices (And others if there are) stay in sync with all functions? i.e. materials, changes, structural operations and office operations? We have regular meetings to discuss any upcoming changes, or issues we see. There’s a constant feedback loop going between the production, quality control, and technical support. This means any issues seen at any point in the process can be investigated and a cause can be determined and the best course of action can be agreed upon and implemented.

@gr5 Here's a look at fbrc8. Nice sunny days here lately, but pretty hot out.

No, there's 2 ends to the cable. It goes into the printhead PCB board, and into the main electronics board. But since the main electronics board under the printer is stationary, if something needs to be reseated/came loose, odds are it's going to be the printhead PCB, since the printhead is constantly moving. If the cable did need to be replaced, you do have to access both ends.