Labern

Its called Ultimaker.

Push a fine pin or needle up the nozzle when its hot and scrape around the edge of the inner part of the nozzle. then try the atomic pull.

It is a bit clumsy using the new forum. It has some nice features over the old one but just for general day to day use I find it a bit painful. I think the ideas section has turned into a bit of a waist, but this could has been used for people developing great new improvements. I pretty much read most things on the forum and there is still some great stuff being posted. But there has been little to no replies on a lot of them. Like jonnybischof's head controller which would be great for tool changer over printers.

The rods may need to be lubed a bit more frequently if they start to blacken or dry out. Bed leveling can be checked and have minor adjustments while it's printing the skirt. You will need to clean and lube the Z axis screw once a year. The belts have a spring tensioner in the black thing that's holding the small shafts. It's a good idea to make sure all the pulleys are tight every so often. You will be prompted to update the firmware in Cura when new releases come out. Atomic pulls are a good way to clean your nozzle. It can be good to do this on material changes or before a really long print. Cleaning your glass with isopropyl alcohol every so often can be good also. There is a app that has maintenance guides with pictures also.

I Guess UM are trying enter useful info under the Tips and Tricks section of the website.

You shouldn't need Z hop. You normally get nicer prints with it turned off.

You will find that Cura 1.99 runs a lot smoother then 15.09.90

Wont making the external thread M30x1.5 and the Nut M30.2x1.5 solve you problem. you need to add some clearance so just make the Dia of the internal treads bigger. The pitch remains the same so its going to screw together. Its how i print my threads and it works every time.

Was it the topic on "rookie Questions"? If so, @SandervG who replied works at ultimaker and is part of the team working on this forum, so hes the man when it comes to forum problems . @Gr5 is a moderator and has special controls to magically make things happen. So if you send either one a PM then they can help sort it out for you.

what is your Initial layer height set to? Its normally 0.3mm, so 1 layer of 0.3mm then 7 more layers of 0.1mm = 1mm high

Haha I had a bad headache that day and must have missed that bit. reading x and y axis the whole way though got me all confused

It should be at the top. How many print hours have you done? You may find that you PTFE coupler has deformed. There is more information on it Here that will take you through the steps of checking and replacing it.

What temps, layer height and speeds are you trying to print at. You may need to check you bowden tube and PTFE. even though its new i had one that was no good on one of my new machines.

you can heat the nozzle and pull it free from the big melted mess. To remove it from the rest of the parts you can use a heat gun to soften it or unscrew the fans and put the fan shroud into hot water (if its PLA)

I think if it was going to be implemented properly i don't think it would add to much complexity. A lot of production machines have monitor encoders. we have encoders that are over 20years old on our machines with no faults. I agree that for the sake of grinding that its not the best solution, But for the sake of filament tangles, empty roll runout or blocked nozzle (mainly for filaments like woodfil) then this can be a very helpful solution. It could even measure amount of feeder slippage and bring up a warning if its to high. This could be an good early warning system for worn things like PTFE couplers or partially blocked nozzle.

You must also have combing on. I will travel over empty space if its turned off. For pipes you normally have a solid model and you set infill to 0% and turn top and bottom layers off. Then turn spiralize on and set how many walls you want. But as IRobertI says. You should always check layer view first to see its going to do what you want.

It maybe jammed inside the PTFE coupler. Heat the nozzle and try to reverse it and pull on it at the same time.

This may not be what your after with this topic but I got a 0.8mm nozzle and inserted a needle into in down from the top and tried cutting some foam. As the needle was stainless the heat transfer was pretty bad and it only got hot enough to cut the foam close to the nozzle. but it still was able to cut it. If the whole thing was made of brass it could possibly work. Then you could make nice foam inserts for things like GUNS or something.

So you didn't read post number 3??

it does my head in to try and think which way it was printed. could you take a photo of it in the printed and in the orientation it was printed. Looks like it was printed to hot or not enough fans. Whats you print settings? nozzle temp? print speed? travel speed? layer height?

So I was thinking. (yes it hurt) That most materials apart from PLA have layer adhesion issues. Although the properties of the actual material can be a lot better then PLA, the layer adhesion makes it worse off once printed. So how do we improve on this to get structurally stronger parts. One brain fart i had is that the current nozzles we use extrude a bead of plastic that has a flat top and bottom. This gives a fairly small surface area of which the next layer being put on top can stick to. But what if we could extrude a corrugated surface, increasing the surface area in which the next layer of plastic can stick to. which therefore may increase the layer strength?? Not sure how this could be done without having to rotate the nozzle in the direction of travel but could be an interesting test.

Have you read through This thread?

The feeder motor skipping like that is normal when there is to much pressure buildup, the motor it's self is fine but this means you have a problem somewhere else. This can be from a filament tangle, warn PTFE coupler or a blocked nozzle. You also can experience this when your temp is set to low for the print speed or even if you have leveled the glass to close to the nozzle. Do the Atomic pull first as SandervG states as a blocked nozzle is the most likely cause.

The CEL Robox has needle valves in their nozzles. I have also seen others try using a floating disc that shuts off when it retracts.

Yes you will need to replace it. You can contact you nearest reseller and they will send one out to you.