Labern

If its not up to the task it will always sit under the set point and may alarm if it cant recover. this normally happens with the fans also blowing on the nozzle. A more powerful heater will allow for faster print times but you are still limited by the temp that the material will start burning at. Its recommended in not going above 240 for pla.

In Cura 1.99 yo can select where the z scar happens

nope

Low temp. What settings are you currently using?

For 2+ models you have to copy the files HERE to the machines files for you to be able to select them.

I have tried those coasting settings for a while not but i find it worse then with it off. what i have noticed is that in 1.99 that travel speed makes a big difference to z scar.

That sounds like better settings. Its normally best to only change one thing at a time otherwise you wont learn how each change is effecting your outcome. This can be tested with a small test piece.

This plugin is for the new cura which is still in beta. for 15.04.4 you can enter the material info under preferences and it will tell you the cost under the print time when you have sliced an item.

Retractions don't remove all the plastic from the nozzle. they just release the pressure in the hot end. The left over plastic sits in the hotend and gets hotter and hotter as its not moving. as it gets hotter it expands and oozes out of the nozzle. Reducing the heat zone reduces the amount of plastic left over and reduces oozing, But this means you then cant print as fast.

How would i do this check? Disconnect the switch and put your meter onto the Continuity Beeper setting. measure between the 2 wires and switch the switch. your meter should only beep when the switch is pressed in. If you don't have a meter you can use a battery and a light and connect them all in series. when you push in the switch the light should go on.

For the second one you increased the temp made it slower and lowered the layer height. All of these changes allow Pla to get really hot and will increase Stringing. To remove ghosting you normally just reduce the acceleration a bit. Reducing it to much can cause over extruding on direction changes. So try 2200mm/s. Stringing you want to go colder, so to do this you normally reduce the temp. If you reduce the layer height then the flow of the plastic is slower so you need to reduce the temp again. This also goes if you reduce the print speed.

Just disconnect the bowden tube then pull it out. Or push it out with another piece of filament.

Sounds good. will be interesting what you come up with.

Looks a bit stringy also. Will be interesting to see how you get on.

Has anyone actually been able to print with peek yet? If so is there issues while printing?

That's pretty good with no oil

Probably but i would think if there was no retractions there would be a big blob there. I wasnt meant to be hard on Bondtech. I know both extruders are not the ideal situation for this situation. and we both know that the way to go is with a setup like Olsson's for flex materials.

To be fair you could have said the same here https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19285-um-2-and-filaflex?page=last#reply-133112 Well he showed a robot with travels and retractions. So i didn't need to

Very Cool

3dsolex or one of there re-seller should have them

This looks very nice and quality looks good, but it's a simple shape that doesn't require any travel moves or retractions which i guessing would be another story. Did you oil the Bowden tube?

HAHA that's a good one.

on things like this you really need to pay the price and get something you will know works. 3D Solex sells them or get one from a UM re-seller. Gr5 tests his to make sure they are accurate so if you are in his area it could be a good option. Its handy to have location and machine in your profile so when you ask questions people can direct you to places in your area and know what machine you are talking about.

You can sign up free for one year and then renew your free membership for another year each year after that.

Thanks. Im very happy.