Labern

I am actively quite surprised how well a .4 nozzle prints small objects. So far I haven't manipulated the nozzle size in cura. But there is definitely a limit when it comes to keeping the hand supports. I might try what neotko has done to see if you can go beyond this limit.

I have tried it and Retractions suffer a lot. I did install the conversion kit from 3dsolex though which worked really great. it came with a 1.75mm bowden inside the 3mm bowden. I was able to find a way of gluing strips of bowden tube together and now just have a couple of bits at each end. this makes it nice, flexible and light. the kit also came with PTFE coupler and nozzle block with the correct ID. 3dsolex doesn't have 1.75mm nozzles though so you need to get them from E3D. Good for people who want an Ultimaker but prefer 1.75mm filament. unfortunately i don't have much 1.75 so couldn't experiment much

here is a few more. may do a few more tweaking if i get some free time tomorrow as its bed time for me

My first try, I tried to keep all the details. Can be improved a bit.

Netfabb is free and easy to use. Tutural found

Is it actually retracting between each one? if not then you will need to reduce the minimum travel and the minimum extrusion before retracting. As the rivets are rounded and small adjust the retraction minimum extrusion and travel amounts as small as possible. You can look in layer view to check to make sure its retracting between each one. If you make the amounts to small it may have excessive amount of retracting, so just lower them enough to make it so it retracts.

Not every PT100 sensor reads the correct temp. some can be out quite a bit so it may need replacing with a more accurate one. I have seen people on the forum adjusting the pid control for the temp. and I know TinkerGnome has worked on this on his Firmware. Maybe giving that a try could also help.

Taulman has printing specs that you could check to see the difference in temp and speed between 618 and 645. Just alter the difference between the one that prints well and the one that doesn't.

Here ya go

What does the temp error actually say? Knowing if it's nozzle or bed could narrow it down a bit. Do you have fans come on during the first layer? Could be a loose connection.

Yeah, sorry for going off topic, I should have started a new one. I was given a bag of new nozzles with no sizes indicated and mixed up a few others of mine. @izzy how did you guess fleas were next on the list.

Would make for interesting atomic pulls This is ok for 2 color prints or using materials that require the same printing temps. But has limited flexibility. Even different colors or brands of PLA can require different Temps to get them to print really nice. the purpose of the two filaments is having a wider (volume) window of available "glass point" material to increase the potential max print volume (thus Speed) Speed is good. The problem lies with the bigger heat zone, this creates more plastic expansion, thus more oozing and longer retract lengths. Not an issue on all prints but not ideal for a general purpose printer.

Some times you cant remove the bowden tube if the filament is still in it. even though it retracts at the end of a print there can be a small bit that joins the filament with the plastic still in the nozzle. So its normally easier to increase the nozzle temp, pull filament back then remove bowden tube.

have you looked at THIS and tried the Atomic method. You pull the PLA out at 70- 90 degrees. There is definitely a problem is you are printing that slow at 240c.

205c is quite cold for a 0.8mm nozzle. Its trying to push heaps of filament through and might be just a bit cold. When you say the bowden tube is stuck, are you saying you cannot remove it from the machine? or is the filament getting stuck inside?

bummer dude

Great thanks. Have you seen the one marked with an "x" before? It also seems like I have a 0.15mm with bullseye dot.

Protopasta has coffee flavoured filament. :Pit prints great, looks like slightly translucent coffee/chocolate colour and smells of coffee when you print it! hahaha cool I hope kids don't try to eat the prints.

That's good you have had great results. My point is more between how it prints in a bowden machine compared to Anders ultibot with direct drive. I have seen warnings that it's not ment to be printed hotter than 230 degrees or it produces toxic fumes. But I haven't researched this myself.

I just found a nozzle with no dots but has an "x" on it. the hole looks quite big. Any indication on what size this could be?

would be funny to have scented filament.

It's very hard to get it to print and can't print anything with good quality.

Nope its not. but you can look into other alternatives like THIS

Can be found HERE

sounds awesome, As long as it prints like PLA