tinkergnome

Yes, if you want to send a specific job to a specific printer, this approach seems to be the only way possible from now on. Or stay with the previous Cura version.

It's a different topic, but don't let Nylon filament absorb moisture for days while you don't print with it... (enclose it in a drybox / Polybox or something similar with desiccant - except you live in a very dry climate). Basically: follow the instructions from the material manufacturer how to store it properly.

At first, i would check that you've actually selected "Ultimaker 3" and not "...S3". Although i guess it would give you (at least) a warning if you try to print it on the wrong printer model. And you can check the extruder offsets in machine settings. Nozzle offset x/y should be zero for "Extruder 1" and 18mm on x for "Extruder 2". If everything is correct on the software side, it may be that the lift switch calibration on the printer is wrong and the printhead collides with the bracket or the side panel while switching nozzles?

I'm just guessing, which slicer do you use and which machine definition? Be aware that the extruder offset for the UM3 and the S5 is not the same.

Mit "Scan" meinst Du das "active bed leveling", bzw. das "probing"? Soweit ich weiß wird dabei für das Heizbett die (maximal erlaubte) Temperatur von beiden Materialien eingestellt. Was ist denn als zweites Material ausgewählt? Wenn das z.B. PLA ist, würde es die 60°C erklären....? Ist das überhaupt ein Dual-Druck? Wenn nicht, dann könntest Du das zweite Material auch "entladen", dann sollte die Temperatur auch auf ABS-Niveau bleiben. Oder bleib einfach beim manuellen Leveling, dann hast Du damit überhaupt keinen Stress. Oder ist die "Streuung" bei den Filaprint-Platten so groß, das das nicht geht?

I see no reason for a normal end of print either.Does it stop with the regular "print finished" message or does happen something more weird - like rebooting or such...? But you should consider to... - either remove all M84 commands (steppers off) - or (additionally) re-home all axis before the first move in your "push off procedure"

@yuanyuan you can take a look at the API - a link to the documentation is on the "homepage" of the printer. I guess that repetier host doesn't support the Ultimaker API. And there's the "sendgcode" tool on the printer itself (accessible in developer mode). This older post may be helpful for you:

AFAIK it's not necessarily a bug, but just the way small gaps between walls are filled by recent versions of Cura. If i remember right, "gap filling" can be switched off (one can choose between "everywhere" and "nowhere"). You could try both options and compare the generated gcode. Another difference is probably the fact that CuraEngine always generates two passes on each outer contour, while other slicers may be generate a single, but slidely thicker line.

dunno, but you're looking at extrusion lines at an angle of 45 deg and at travel moves in 0 respective 90 deg. The travel moves are 0.622mm or 0.623 and Pythagoras says: the corresponding line distance is 0,4398mm or 0.4405mm. Looks perfect. The material flow is probably wrong (either the material diameter, the flow rating or the extruder steps/mm). That's all.

The obvious reasons are: - for small objects or for objects with fine details in the x/y direction - for objects with thin walls And there are even smaller nozzles than .25mm... If you need some inspiration: http://thedailymini.com/daily-mini-interview-miniature-3d-printing-lance-abernethy/

yes, it sets the extruder position to 0.0 - which is probably not what you want. You should use the last e coordinate from before the pause instead of 0.0 http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G092.html Just out of curiosity: Why are you inserting those things manually? Which slicer do you use? Doesn't it offer some support for pause scripts? And why exactly 30 seconds pause? Wouldn't it be better to wait for a keystroke or such...? Or lacks the taz 6 a display?

Some thoughts... Do you use relative coordinates for the e-axis? I see no M83 / M82 in your snippet. This can be a very long retraction if this is an absolute e value... (re-)sets the e coordinate to zero and here it tries to extrude 202.6365 mm at once. Which printer is it? There's probably a feature in the firmware that prevents extrusion if a certain length is exceeded. I think, you should temporary use relative moves for the e axis (retraction and purge), and you probably don't want to use the G92 command at all. But of course it depends on the coordinate mode that is used at the moment your pause occurs.

Hi Miron, if you manually set a temperature for the nozzle, does it heat up at all? At which time and at which target/actual temperature does the error appear?

phew.... that's.... creepy! 😨 🏆

I'm not sure what exactly the question is... Newer printer models from Ultimaker or in general? UM3 and S5 are using gcode flavor "Griffin", it is very unlikely that this will be back-ported to older machines. But the differences to "Marlin" are marginal (a special header section and one or two custom gcodes). My recommendation is to use a recent Cura version with "Marlin" for UM2. Do you have concerns?

Don't forget that the whole idea dates back to 2013 or even earlier. Slicers didn't had so many advanced settings in the good old days and "Ultigcode" was an enhancement on top of the normal behavior of Marlin. In theory you can use the same gcode file for different types of material. Temperature, retraction settings and flow rate are handled according to the material settings on the machine. It was a pretty smart idea back then but the concept is a bit outdated, because slicing software is much more advanced nowadays (feature wise). There's a reason why Ultimaker itself doesn't use it anymore on more recent printer models. Yes, no problem - that's a good way to test things out. No, why do expect a problem? Besides the fact that Cura can be used to send firmware binaries to the printer, those two things are pretty unrelated to each other. You can use pretty much any available firmware version on the printer and feed it with gcode from pretty much any software that "speaks" Marlin. BTW: if you start "Marlin" gcode files from the sd-card, the printer will show an "override settings..." message. That's fine, it's just the indicator that the material settings on the printer are not used (which is exactly what you want). Just press "continue".

With gcode flavor "Ultimaker 2" there's only one printing temperature that is used for all layers. ("initial" and "final" are only relevant for multi extrusion projects and don't matter anyway). Well, technically... the post processing script works fine and adds these M117 commands. Unfortunately the UM2 firmware just ignores them. The usual Ultimaker design policy indicates that the user shall not be bothered with superfluous details. 🤷‍♂️ So: no luck with the standard firmware...

Wenn ich das richtig verstehe, möchtest Du also von Hand das nachbauen, was der "Mosaic Palette" macht? Verschiedene Farben vom Filament zusammensplicen und dann damit bunte Objekte drucken? https://www.mosaicmfg.com/

A Cura project file is a 3mf file and contains the model and the print settings. Your description sounds like you want to load only the model, but not the settings from the file. This behavior can be changed in the "Preferences" dialog.

There we have it! A ride-on lawnmower with RGB lights - makes sense! (and it don't even needs a lawn to look good) And let's hope that there's an option to switch the lights off at night... this time... 😝

You used the wrong username, that's all. Follow point 2 of the instructions more careful: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15804-how-to-set-ip-address-without-wifi-or-dhcp/?do=findComment&comment=215658

I don't know what you see... It's obviously nothing more than an Ultimaker with "black chassis option"... finally! 😛

Im Boden vom Druckkopf. Wenn man ihn vorn aufklappt, sollte im Boden eine kleine Platine zu sehen sein. Beim Ultimaker 3 ist sie beschriftet mit "Capacitive Sensor Board" - ich nehme an, das ist beim S5 so ähnlich. In diesem Beitrag sind Bilder vom zerlegten Druckkopf: und hier wurde erklärt, wie die Messung funktioniert:

Arduino devices are very limited on memory, that's why the firmware doesn't sort lists. It just reads the first few visible lines from the sd-card and continues reading only if one rotates the encoder wheel. Such a sort feature would require a more modern microcontroller (with more RAM). It's the same problem as on the first simple mp3 players. On a freshly formatted sd card the order will be almost certainly the same order as the files were put on the card. There are tools for Windows, that are able to subsequently (re-)write the sd card in a sorted order, but i don't know how reliable or trustworthy those are. (search for "FAT sorter" or "SD sorter")