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tinkergnome

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Everything posted by tinkergnome

  1. the sources are here (branch "Mark2"): https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/tree/Mark2 You can put custom tool change scripts on the sd-card (only if those are short - RAM is very limited). Folder name and file names are defined here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/Mark2/Marlin/commandbuffer.cpp#L22 default processing is in CommandBuffer::processT0 resp. processT1 Good luck!
  2. Nope. There are no separate z-offset settings in the normal Marlin firmware. With this classic approach both nozzles have to be at the exact same height (if you want to use both at a time). The firmware variant for Mark2 / magnetic tool changer got quite a few upgrades to handle both printheads separately, but this is a different topic.
  3. @nallath explained the order a bit in the post linked below. I guess there's no easy answer, so it depends... The whole system consists of containers (with settings inside) that are stacked. As far as i understand it, the settings from the material are only used if there are no other containers with different settings "above" it. Perhaps, if your printer definition does not use quality profiles and there are no retraction setting defined by the user, it may be use the material defaults, in all other cases... no... Quality profiles (if present) can have dependencies to the material settings, but do not have to... and so on... A very flexible system (IMHO), but also complicated and sometimes confusing... 🙂 AFAIK there's no easy way to explore where the value comes from that is shown on the user interface. And be aware that the "profile" that you are talking about is probably not the same as the "profiles" the programmers are talking about...
  4. sounds like... UM2 (+) and G-code flavor still set to "Ultimaker 2" ❔ "Nozzle Temperature Control" is usually enabled for all G-code flavors except "Ultimaker 2". With "Ultimaker 2" some of the material settings are handled by the printer (as you probably know...). G-code flavor can be changed in the machine settings.
  5. Und die Silikon-Abdeckung unter den Düsen ist unbeschädigt und noch an ihrem Platz? Anderenfalls ist es vielleicht nur die Kühlluft, die es der Heizung so schwer macht....?
  6. assuming that the head fits mechanically and both heaters and temperature sensors are connected the same way as before, i don't see why it should not work. (the levelling sensor would be non-functional though) This mod would need custom tool change scripts, no problem for a DIY oriented tinkerer... 🙂
  7. I'm not sure, but there was another bug with the end-of-print retraction that was fixed after the 3.3 release (only on GitHub). The most recent activity was 5 month ago, and there is a beta release of the UM2+ firmware from Oct. 2018 https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/tree/UM2.1_JarJar/releases/beta the commit contains some release notes for it: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/commit/f6e69344c00d7f300dace730990652ba614a2105
  8. There's a setting called "Gradual Support Infill Steps" (and a corresponding step height). This may work for your purpose.
  9. not Amazon, but reasonable shipping costs: https://www.freeform4u.de/ptfe-bowden-tube-meterware-fuer-3d-drucker.html https://www.3djake.de/capricorn/tl-transparent-ptfe-bowden
  10. ...in addition: Ultimaker printers do not use bowden tubes with metric dimensions (AFAIK). You probably want one with 1/4 inch outside and 1/8 inch inside diameter. Where are you located? Here's another example in USA: https://www.captubes.com/
  11. Welcome to the forum, @lowracer! Here is how it is done for the UM2+ firmware, the comment may be interesting for you: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/temperature.cpp#L552
  12. The maximum z speed for the UM2(+) firmware is 40 mm/s. The same speed is used for "homing". The default profiles in Cura do not limit the z speed, so 40 mm/s will be used for layer changes too. But the max. acceleration for z is only 100 mm/s2, 40 mm/s will be probably never reached for short moves. I think, it doesn't matter much for the (very short) moves during a layer change. Personally i use 20 mm/s as the max. z speed in S3D and noticed no difference. Hope that helps!
  13. Be aware that Marlin uses "sticky" parameters. All settings stay at the last value until the next reboot (or M501). If you want to be sure that every print starts with the stored values, add M501 at the beginning of the start script. If you want to check the generated gcode: jerk can be changed with M205, acceleration with M204. (follow the links for details).
  14. a search for "tinkercad revolve" shows several results, that's why i thought it is possible
  15. Any 3D-CAD program should offer such a function (although the naming may vary). It depends on your definition of "free software"... "OpenSCAD" and "FreeCAD" are free to use for anyone (AFAIK), "TinkerCAD", "Fusion360" and "Designspark Mechanical" want a registration, but are free of charge for private users. Just use whatever you prefer...
  16. ich würde zuerst mal versuchen, das "Y0" in den Zeilen mit "bring extruder to front" loszuwerden. Y5 ist auch weit genug vorn - zum Vergleich: für UltiGCode ist die Position "G1 F12000 X5 Y10" https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/UltiLCD2_menu_print.cpp#L15
  17. Hallo Birk, das Standard Start-Skript von S3D fährt am Ende bis auf Z=0.0 herunter. Das mag die Tinker-Firmware nicht. Im Zweifel zeig mal das Start-Skript her... Ich glaube, es ist eh' keine so gute Idee, bei jedem Start mit der Düse übers Glas zu kratzen. Wenn das Z0.0 ersetzt wird mit Z0.1 (oder jedem anderen positiven Wert), dann sollte die Fehlermeldung verschwinden.
  18. That's true, but it's of course possible that only the mainboard was replaced... 😈 The numbers are very low, how old is the printer? In short: I would not make a decision only based on those numbers. It's a good indicator if the overall condition of the device matches, but not more. In this case it doesn't matter much, but for reference: Be aware that "printing" and "material" counters are only ticking for prints from the sd card. During USB printing only the "machine on" timer is updated every hour. (assuming that the default firmware is used)
  19. Ja, das hört sich richtig an. Man kann es entweder mit M500 am Drucker speichern, oder einfach in das Startskript mit aufnehmen.
  20. Außerdem: Ich hoffe, die Schraube für die Andruckfeder ist nicht immer in dieser Position? Der Schraubenkopf gehört komplett in das Gehäuse, sonst ist der Federdruck viel zu schwach. Hier in der Mitte der Seite sind Bilder, wie das Innenleben normalerweise aussieht: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004264626
  21. Ok, gut zu wissen. Mit Cura 3.4.1 funktionierte es definitiv noch (ich hatte es vorher ausprobiert). Viel Erfolg (und nicht die "Adhesion sheets" vergessen)!
  22. Mmmh, stimmt, Ultimaker Cura bietet PP erst ab UM2+ aufwärts zu Auswahl an. Wahrscheinlich nicht ohne Grund...? Die allgemeinen Empfehlungen für Ultimaker PP findest Du doch aber auf der Material-Seite? Du könntest auch einfach einen UM2+ in Cura einrichten, für den ist PP auswählbar. Dann noch den GCode-Flavor in den "Machine Settings" auf "Marlin" umstellen - dann kann man sich alle Defaults anschauen. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49778-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pp
  23. Conditions are not possible IMHO, for the temperature settings you can use something like this: M104 T{initial_extruder_nr} S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, initial_extruder_nr} Some more explanations are here:
  24. There's only a single motor current setting for both E1 and E2. This pin is connected to both stepper drivers. Speaking of stepper drivers: are you sure that your mainboard has the 5th stepper driver chip soldered on? On many newer 2.1.4 boards it is not installed at all. But the connector is obviously present, so this should be not the issue?
  25. Well, the raft settings are not uncommon, but a few questions: - I don't know the printer, but the print speed seems incredible high? - Are you sure that you want to print with only a single top and bottom layer (0.06mm)? - Have you modified the printer for 2.85mm filament? It should be 1.75mm, shouldn't it?
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