rebekah_harper

Yep This is moisture. There is only so much you can do. When you print is the spool covered or fitted to the back? Basically you know boiling water creates steam, well as we print twice as hot compared to boiling point the transition is very fast. This can lead to the now gas form of the water to get trapped if the amount is very small. When the amount of moisture is above a certain amount the amount of gas expand where it bursts out of the plastic and that’s the pop. There are printable solutions that encase the PVA whilst printing and contains moisture absorption (latter isn’t printable) I have designed one and is on youmagine and thingiverse. It’s bright orange. I have designed something better but haven’t tested it yet. But will be available once I have.

Would it be worth just trying default setting in cura to see what happens?

Ok the first thing I would do is check the sensor and it’s cable to see if there are any issues. It maybe that all the movement has cased it to split. The reason why I’d chase the sensor is that the printer starts to print. Which it shouldn’t do until temp has been reached. When you press print how long does it take to actually start to print? Also if you go to extruder temp in the advanced section what is the temp. Or when you go to move material it should give a temp reading whilst it’s trying to heat up. I’m interested what it thinks it’s reading at the start of the heating process. Also check the material setting on the machine. You should be able to access the material process in the machines process. Something may have happened where the temp is set incorrectly. I must say that I’m suggesting this from a UM2+ perspective so please excuse me if the menu setup differs from what you have. The last thing for now to try is use rep rap flavour in the machine setting for the G-Code in Cura. It over rides the machines own settings. (Learnt that recently) Let me know how it works out and I will try and help from there.

Ok I assume that the G-Code files are not newly generated ones after the problem G-Code? I would suggest you use a different model and generate a new G-Code and see if it happens. when you say the build plate doesn't move. I am hoping that all axis go to Home this being the build plate goes to the bottom. if not, what height is it at when it start printing? is it the height it was priming the nozzle at? just to confirm it's the UM2+ ? if so sometimes I have to just turn it off and then on again and on two occasions I had to do a factory reset. you may need to reinstall the latest firmware but that is easy enough through USB or Card

If the printer believes that the nozzle is at 210 and starts printing then the temp sensor setup has an issue. what printer are you running?

hiya, can I assume that when you check the layer view that it is within the build area. I can only suggest that there is a machine setting incorrect in cura. there is sometimes a tick box for flip (can be called mirror) x-axis, y-axis and z-axis. but I can't check for the moment as I haven't got 2.0.7 installed any more. however if your other settings for build area are incorrect then you can fall foul of that too. what printer are you running? This will dictate what you have available to change setting wise. I would need to check the cura version but why aren't you on 2.7 or later? regards Rebekah Anderson

if you use the UM3 app it does tell you the time it is meant to finish.

Hiya, I built my own PC due to much needed power for CAD. However now my UM2+ keeps restarting until I manage to connect Cura or S3D just at the right time. The only thing that has changed is that I now only have USB 3 ports but unless there is in the back ground that differs from USB 2 I couldn't say. I have checked the BIOS for auto settings etc... but nothing that appears out of place or something that could solve this. check USB setting in Win10 again nothing there that suggests auto connect etc... driver appears to be correct, and it does connect with the driver. many thanks Rebekah Anderson

It might be that you are using the incorrect printer profile or one of the axis is flipped/mirrored I assume that the object is in the centre in your slicer when you go to Layer view? Rebekah Anderson

Hiya, I will have a look and sort out a method for you to get as close as possible. but please understand that unless you have the glass plate professionally polished flat you will struggle to get 0 tolerance. I should do this on my machine anyway, last night spent it alligning the x-y so they run perpendicular to each other.

Hiya Sander, Sounds like a very good move. Will you consider an area for your problems that is restricted to approved members. In order to allow the select few techno geniuses on the forum to see and maybe assist in solving it. Members can elect to join a 'members development team' and contribute. This doesn't have to be restricted Cura Functionality but could include GUI design, Printer aesthetic design and engineering. All with the understanding that it's a voluntary contribution with no official remuneration. however in the forces we have GEMs which is a project set up to allow troops to get involved with solution development. At times it is deemed that a reward is warranted so you could do something like that if you feel like it. BTW Jaffa cakes OK? Rebekah Anderson

hiya, I assume you checked the layer view to review the print. if not do so and see if it's the same. there is a possibility that the object is just a mesh which has no volume. other than that I'd put it through 'makeprintable'. rebekah anderson

Hiya, I have been using filamentum PLA with great success. I get this from www.3dfilaprint.com

hiya, I use the custom settings a lot and it seems I lost a lot of space for them. I am in the process trying to understand how the software is put together so I can try something different. there is a lot to understand but I am slowly getting to grips with the Uranium frame work. I am now just trying to work out how everything is linked together and from there see how I can change the GUI layout. in the mean time I played around with paint to see how I envisage the layout and this is what I am hoping to achieve. I am hoping that I can have the 'solid/x-ray/layer' view panel floating. I also want to deal with the 'print over network' button covering the print details. other than that it's another good job team.

hiya, that's great to hear. Rebekah Anderson

Hiya, just wanted to chip in here and ask if you could send me a picture of the filament, the packaging and maybe your name. Who did it come from? from here http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/ I am really close with the owner of 3dfilaprint and what you are describing is very unlike them. I am not sure what the overseas partner ship is referring to but am wondering if it the Global FSD label but that I haven't seen on any of my packaging. I would be greatful if you could share the details even as a PM because I know that PLA shouldn't behave like that. In addition I would like ensure that 3DFilaprint isn't being miss represented by a third party because I haven't had any issues and the service and advice has been 1st class. many thanks rebekah anderson

Hiya, are you using the autolevelling function? I would like to add that no build plate is perfectly flat. there have been some with a variation of 0.6 mm (not just one plate) which was a bad batch but since addressing that with the UK importer I have not seen any more. what I would suggest is calibrate the build plate, then raise the build plate to 0. ensuring there is no material poking out of the nozzle, move the head by hand around the build plate and check using the calibration card. if the discrepencies are in the corners ie: front right is high and rear left is low then you can adjust front right screw down which will in turn raise the rear left slightly. fine tuning this will take a while is the layer resolution is key. the best method is using a metal feeler. something like this: Feeler it can take a while but not impossible. but at the end of the day your will never get a perfectly flat build plate and hence levelling it to a 0 tollerance won't be possible. on my UM2+ i did add some card underneath one of the rear corners, just to raise it a little. this might be another avenue to explore if one corner is being an issue. just keep checking again and again until you're happy.

hiya, I am at work and can't see the image but at a guess it's the support horizontal expansion. I have found that even though there is nothing to support for it, it seems to be linked in with what ever support is supporting a feature. hope I guessed right Rebekah Anderson

Hiya, if I understand correctly that there angle of the features above this height don't need support? if you look in the support section there is an angle setting which should range from 0 to 90 deg. when making a change here you will find that the higher the value the more parallel to the plate the over hang becomes in order to generate support. 90 deg = parallel to build plate. depending on the layer thickness I will set it around 45 deg. for lower layer height I increase the value to about 75 ish as I need less support. hope this helps Bex

Hiya, I just wanted to highlight this little problem. the Print over network button over laps the print time and cost. could you have it moved up. it's aesthetics but still shouldn't happen kind regards Rebekah Anderson

on no sorry it's not materials it's about how the printer handles PVA and have some other Questions about the design of the printer. PVA is PVA in many ways. mainly it cloggs easily lol

ooo, well I was thinking of asking some questions regarding the PVA issue and where they were thinking of going with it. so I think that's a mechanical engineer/designer. plus I was going to throw in there if they had a job going lol (I jest)

Hiya, Could one of the designers of the physical printer be part of the AMA event?

Does the same team deal with UM2 and UM2+ software? I would like to see the firmware change according to Cura. Currently temp, nozzle, retraction etc is set by the printer and Cura is ignored.

Just to be clear, when I remove items from our backlog, for me that doesn't mean that we never are going to do/solve this. Only that we think we won't be doing this in the next 6 months or so. If a ticket get's closed feel free to fix it yourself and we would be more that happy to review and merge your pull request. I think a poll of these isn't a bad idea. because sometimes we endure some issues just to get on with printing and then it becomes the norm for those users. It might help with seeing if an issue is still an issue.