Enigma_M4

Hi, if a model is loaded into Cura, it's automatically assigned to extruder 1 by default. If you want to print it with extruder 2, you have to mark it and select extruder 2 on the left sided menu (lowest icon). Regards

Hi, welcome to the family ;-). What you noticed is not a bug, it's a feature. On the right side of the print head is a lever, which raises the right print core if it's not needed or lowers it when needed. The offset of 2mm is intended to ensure, the non-active print core interferes with the printed object and ruins the print. The switching is automatically done by the printer if needed. The print head will move to the small "fork" on the right printer wall and switch the lever. Regards

Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad I could help. I just read a post about active leveling problems, where the culprit was a cell phone with active WIFI and Bluetooth placed besides the printer. Happy printing!

Hi, after the description of your activities, there are only a few possible points left (afaik). run the diagnostics of the capacitive sensor. Run it several times to assure the sensor is working properly. If the diagnostic is inconclusive, there might be a (new?) source of electric interference, as a new lamp or so (yes, the sensor IS that sensitive). Check the two wires running to the capacitive sensor. They might be damaged, mostly either directly at the connectors of the sensor board. there are a lot of topics in this forum about broken or pinced cables. If the cables are ok, possibly the capacitive sensor board is faulty. Regards

Hi, the screen is part-# 1252, according to the official spare parts manual (see page 17). UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf I don't know where you are located, but the resellers in Germany list it as "OLED Display UM2/UM3". Regards

Handling overhangs is part of a steep learning curve and often result of trial and error. I'm still surprised of the ability of my printer to handle overhangs I just regarded as impossible. For round arcs and overhangs angled less than 45° you definitively don't need supports. Many objects are designed to avoid need of support in just this way. In Cura preview, you should be able to see the generated support. But of course the color sceme for "helpers" and the related extruder must be activated.

Hi, if you attempt to avoid using supports, the upright position ist the best, because the arcs don't need any support. But regard that your adhesion surfache on the print bed is VERY small, so you need at least a good brim. If you've a dual extrusion printer and can use dedicaded support material, such as PVA or Breakaway, you shouldn't look for avoiding support but best position of print object, especially needed strength (layer adhesion is the most weak point of a printed object). Regards

True words. The same went through my minds when posting the link, so first thing I did afterwards was printing a set for my UM3, just in case...

Awesome!

Hi Paul, the "squaring" procedure is described here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879 Note: for proper calibration, you need two sets of calibration sticks; STLs are sourced in the mentioned link. Regards

Hi, you seem to be on the right way. When I read you changed the print head revovering a head flood, I remembered an issue I had when reseating the print head cable some time ago (ic20-error). After retighening the four long print head screws, the movement on Y-direction was also choppy. SLIGHTLY loosen the four long screws (just releasing torque a bit) solved it for me, so I suppose some interference with the linear bearing inside the print head. Maybe it helps for you. Regards

@Priddy was faster than me 🙂 , as that's exactly the suggestion I would have made. But have in mind, that the NFC tag also shows the remaining amount of the filament on the spool. Using a tag of an empty spool might or will lead to the material being shown to be empty (this shuld be no issue IF the material change is controlled by the flow sensor). Regards

Hi, the prime tower is not necessarily needed, but definitely improves the quality of dual nozzle prints. making the tower wider might help, but the better way would be to activate the dedicaded prime tower brim (independend from "global" brim setting, especially designed to prevent prime tower fails). Regards

Hi Dan, the two big issues in 3D-printing are: the prints don't stick to the bed (while printing) the prints stick too good to the bed (after printing) For first tips you should regard to the following post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21620-tip-bed-adhesion/ What kind of printer / print bed do you have? Using a heated glass bed, you should regard it's free of grease (finger prints) and as clean as possible; a thin layer of glue or an adhesive sheet of some kind also can help. For me, PLA just prints fine on clean bare glass, heated to 60°C. Regards

Hi, just installed the new FW and as far I could test, it's working well. The only issue I noticed is the "Analytics Material Bug" It's nice to know that ending production of the UM3 doesn't mean dropping of support / FW developement 🙂. Regards

Hi James, for the (network connected) UM3, the camera stream can be accessed via (IP adress):8080/?action=stream. (the colon is not part of the command) Possibly it also works for other UM Printers. Regards

Hi, for clarification: are you talking about the cable cover that sits outside the back panel of the printer, just under the spool holder? I think it's ordinary painted sheet metal, I don't think it's powder coated. But that's just a guess. Regards

Hallo, zur Teile-Bezeichnung (inkl. Teilenummern) ist die offizielle Teileliste sehr hilfreich (dort ab S. 12). UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf Zur Bezugsquelle: wie @Smithy schon sagte: iGo3D. Viele Grüße

Hi, Windows 7 is not the culprit. I keep Cura 4.7.1 running on a Win7 environment, using an i7 processor with graphics onboard (OpenGL 4.4) Regards

Hi, this link is a big improvement to the situation before, when the instructions for axle alignment were totally gone. Just download the attached PDF of your preferred language and follow the instructions in chapter 3 (page 20 and following). The calibrating sticks can be found on youmagine or thingiverse. For the S5 you need two sets of different sizes referring to the different axle sizes of the S5. Regards

Hi, it sounds a bit like active levelling. If you touch the z-screw, (where you can reach it best without interfering the moving parts, maybe somewhere under the z-table, maybe on the top of the z-screw) you may feel it move while this rattling noise happens. If that's the case, your build platform is -a bit- out of level, causing the active levelling system to compensate this on the first few layers of your print. Regards

He was named "Jaws" (or in German: "Beißer"). Regards

It's a wavy infill pattern which creates a full 3dimensional web-like structure, like bone. In the second video there's some reference.

Hi, there's a good overview on youtube, by CNC Kitchen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmEaNAwFSfI and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upELI0HmzHc As infill is just for compressing forces, I prefer Gyroid, as it shows strength from every direction. But that's just my oppinion, I may be wrong. Regards

Hi Adam, you can remove the print core while the printer is powered off and unplugged, without using the menu, if the filament is unloaded. Just open the fan bracket, compress the print core lever and pull out the print core to the front, just applying a little bit of pressure on the upper corner of the translucent part of the print core lever. If it's the right-sided print core, it must be in the lower position. Regards