kayakbabe

Luke, Have you tried without support? That part isn't vary tall. As long as there isn't any overhangs (it doesn't look like it). You shouldn't need support on that object at all. I would have tried first to print without any supports.

I have this issue too. no matter if I use PVA or Breakaway. Same version, everything is up to date except the firmware update that came out today. I'm using all Ultimaker materials too.

Luke, What material are you printing? With the S5, you can use PVA or breakaway in the second nozzle and get great results. Did you design the support yourself? or did you let Cura build the support structure? Your photos of the object look really odd to me, are you using the 0.8 nozzle? I don't think we have enought info to really help you. Just guessing here.

The calibration sheet is made for printing at 100% on A4 paper. Makes sense since Ultimaker is a Dutch company. US standard printer paper is 8.5 inches x 11 inches while A4 is 8.27 x 11.69 inches. So printing at 100% on my paper can result in an inaccurate calibration sheet. Can someone measure the dimensions of the rectangles in the calibration sheet and share that info? Then I can compare and make sure my printout will work? I suggest to the Ultimaker team that they also include a graphic of a box of a known size (maybe 20 or 30 mm) that we can measure to see if our print is exact enough or not.

I was a little frustrated today. I'd installed Cura 5.2.2 finally. And the default settings kicked in because I didn't allow it to copy from my Cura 5.1 I kept going to the menu item Settings then General and changing my zoom to follow the mouse. But it wouldn't stick. After fiddling around, I tried the Preferences and then General and changing the zoom settings. Bingo! That worked. I do not understand why there are to top menu items Settings and Preferences that show the exact same stuff. It's a little confusing to me. The only difference is when you use "settings" at the top level, you can't change a few things. But when you use "preferences" then you can. Kelly

I am having a problem today. I am using all ultimaker branded materials with the NFC tags. I switched materials and the new material didn't work with my profile settings so Cura gave the appropriate message and the little orange triangle. Yay! Cura won't let me do something stupid. BUT, the link for "learn more" went to a page which contained a link to find material profiles. I followed that to a blank blank screen. I expected to see a grid of what can be used with what nozzle etc. I've seen it before. But instead I was led to this page https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667411313529 which wasn't very helpful. that article did contain a link to " can be found on the "How to print" information of the Ultimaker materials." I followed the how to print link... which is a blank white page... here https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/categories/360002336619-Materials Then I tried to go to ultimaker.com and the materials section and find petg. BUT there is hardly any info on the petg on the petg page. not what I need anyway like bed temp, matching nozzles (ultimaker brand nozzles like aa or whatever), print temp... print speeds etc. There is only minimal info on compatibility, properties, applications, but NOT the info a person using the stuff would really need! The site is pretty and has a lot of white space (too much white space which isn't white space from a designer standpoint, it's just wasted space from a usability stand point. Anyway, I 'm a recovering web architect who is now doing other stuff besides web development and as a consumer of ultimaker materials (and hardware) I'm really frustrated by the current state of the website. It's much less helpful that in the past iterations. Please bring back the information we need to actually use Ultimaker materials. Ease of use is why I bought into Ultimaker but it's getting less easy. note: Your tags available for this topic are an example of lack or loss of usability also. Most non web geeks do not know what a ux is. And um.com is not ultimaker.com, It is entirely a different site (and for sale by the way).

I got an Ultimaker spool that had an unwritten tag. You can get NFC Tools and read the tag and see. I tried some other apps but they don't let you see the actual memory where data is stored. On this app, go to the 'Other" in the main menu and select read/write. then scan the tag. Pick any address slot and if you see all 0's then you know you have a bad tag. if you see two character memory values, then you know the tag has been written to. Anyway.. thought this might help you. I thought I was going crazy and my material handler was failing.. but it was a cheap NFC tag that caused my headaches.

Smithy, I ran into something today that your tool might help with. I got a spool of Ultimaker Nylon that had a blank rfid tag. So... I want to force the printer to have a particular material in a particular slot. Ultimaker lists all the fdm materials they have defined for rfid tags officially in their github. Is there anyway to have your tool be able to "push" the right material to a particular slot like it has been loaded and the rfid tag read properly? This would be really cool when we find a third party filament that works great with some already defined filiment's settings, but that aren't 'generic'. Plus it would let us define our own special filament definitions too.

I just wanted to add to this topic. I bought the garolite from matterhackers and had problems leveling.I did stick it to a glass build plate. But I want to cut out the edges so the glass plate I stuck it to will fit the clips in the s5. It seems thick and had some trouble with the automatic leveling as in it wouldn't always work. Also at the same time, I bought the WhamBam flexplate system. I'm loving it. They now have one for the S5 that has cutouts so the build plate clips will fit without being stretched open. I am going to buy just the cutout flexplate for a spare so I can swap for printing faster. That said, I have the older flexplate without the cutouts and it works great. I did put their magnet onto a spare glass build plate and cutout the edges so the clips will fit normally. I also took my flexplate over to a friend who has a laser cutter and had the corners of my flexplate cut off. Didn't want to use metal snips as I didn't want to warp it. I'm loving the PEX with a little washable school glue stick (spread it evenly around with some rubbing alcohol to make a super thin layer) and printing nylon that way. They said their magnet is higher temp proof than most and it really is. Plus the nylon just pops off super easy. Plus I can swap the surfaces for printing anything and even put a glass built plate back in. If I get around to having the garolite trimmed off so the s5 bed clips will fit I may try it again. I should add I'm not printing any nylon with additives like carbon.

On a different link. That link just goes to a writeup of 3D printer comparisons. Any chance of the real link? I'd like to do this too and don't want to recreate the wheel.

I made a spacer for the Material Handler to ensure that when I use Ultimaker brand filament, that the spools were to the left in the slot so the rfid chip will read properly. I thought I'd share because so many of us are having the same issue. I posted it https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5492736 . It is a remix of a component of a spool by Cypertech .

Slap me in the face with a wet fish! Reboot worked. Thanks 🙂

I've had almost zero problems with my machine that were caused by my machine and the Ultimaker S5 is my recommendation for everyone who asks me about 3D printing. I also bought mine in late 2020. I've been super happy with it. I'm surprised by your experience with your machine. To answer your question, "Is there something good in the UM5 ?", Yes everything is good about it! I read your posts and think that alot are probably a machine problem, probably a loose connection in shipping. You mentioned that, but I suspect you may have more or the one that came loose is still not seated quite right. Could be the connector to the board is messed up.maybe a cracked solder joint on the board that doesn't cause problems until the board gets warmed up. I had a PC like that once. I suspect you also may need to put your machine on an UPS with AVR (uninterruptible power supply with automatic voltage regulator). some of you issues sound like they could be power related. I had a lot of "ghost in the machine" problems with both my PC and my S5 at first. When I plugged them into a high quality UPS instead of a cheap surge protector 99% of all my problems disappeared. I spent so much money on the PC and S5, it seemed like nothing to get a $300 UPS to protect them. All my weird PC freezes and glitches (thought I had a virus, but it was bad power instead) went away. Also a Community forum is not the same as contacting Ultimaker Support. We all try to help each other as much as we can. But for real support and warranty issues, it is always best to actually contact the company directly. Ultimaker makes it very easy to contact them. You can't be mad at them when they don't see a post on a community board. It isn't a support ticket system.

I normally use the S5 to update itself. I have the newer model with the U on the side. My previous updates have all been through the S5. I've never done one via USB, so I assume that the S5 would have the correct version of the firmware for 7.03. Logging into Cura today, Cura told me there was a firmware update for the S5. On the S5, I used the maintenance menu to get the update. I pressed to install, then an error saying the version I had on my machine was unexpected. So.. what to do? I see the update just was released yesterday at 10am. Do I need to wait a period of time for the server to fully get the correct information so that my S5 can be updated?

since it is tpu why are you trying to print with supports and different elevations. it's flexible so print it flat on one level and let the tpu do it's work after you get it off the printer.

I keep the tags out of old spools that worked. write with sharpie on them so i know exactly what material they were "programmed" to. I just use one that I know works, pop the non working one out, put the working one in and wa-la! rfd is super cheap. rfd programmers are even cheaper. you could probably buy a reader and programmer for under 20$ and just program your own. I found a lot of generic pla works great with the ultimaker pla settings, so reusing the tags just makes things quicker for me.

Ive been using hte wham bam flexible bed with my s5 for almost a year. it is fantastic. I totally agree with you.

Gero, has a great point, if the printer screen showed the humidity, it would help with troubleshooting esp when it is intermittent or weird filament issues.

And think! Anyone making objects that need to be visually pleasing yet still functional. Anyone making prototypes, one-offs, and molds for mass production who want a skin on the 3d printing item that doesn't require post processing would probably really like these abilities for fuzzy skin.

I like fuzzy skin and I cannot lie, You other brothers can't denyThat when a prop prints off with a pretty pretty faceIt's a beautiful thing! Except when it's not. Fuzzy skin really is a cool thing. I'm thinking it shouldn't be experimental at all. Say if I'm printing something that has a threaded part that is how it attaches to another object. I want the fuzzy skin everywhere except where that threaded extension is. Or an object that has a screw hole for affixing to something. I want fuzzy everywhere but inside that hole (so the dimensions of that hole are accurate). I know there is a setting to just have fuzzy on the outside only or everywhere. What I want is more control AND/OR blockers for fuzzy. With fuzzy blockers (More than one per model), it would be possible, with work, to accomplish a lot. With a couple more settings AND blockers it would be super fast to accomplish a lot quickly. examples: fuzzy on outside and top fuzzy everywhere except holes under a certain diameter but even those won't do what I want without also having a fuzzy blocker. I have a part from a kickstarter project (see attached images). The zone in orange is where I need extra control. It has screw holes and also an open channel that needs to not be fuzzy. But the rest of the part would have a really awesome appearance if it was fuzzy. The rest of the project it goes with would greatly benefit from the same treatments. So I really hope, Cura gets these features added to fuzzy skin. Sincerely, Kelly I snippedimages from Frame Theory 3D SongBird Mk.3+, myminifactory , I think it's okay to put these images on this forum and it's okay with them if I attribute it. It's not my design.

Whatever you did, jerky or jiggly or whatever... LOL. I LOVE the new surface. It absolutely does look better. Part of me wants to throw some curse words at you while I toast you with a beer. I am going to have to reprint a whole bunch of stuff that I want to look pretty. I really hate sanding so reprinting is now it. So thanks a lot (both sincerely and a sarcastically in a good way)!

I'm thinking it's time to replace the desiccant in my material manager. It doesn't seem to be maintaining the 40% humidity level it is supposed to. I have a 5 lb jar of color changing desiccant beads that I could use. Are there any instructions for doing this? I seem to remember something not being shielded that I could zap myself on. I think my warrantee was out around September so I won't be endangering anything regarding that..

In 4.11 has "Print sequence" been removed from experimental settings or moved to somewhere else? I've got a few cylinder like objects that would benefit form printing one at a time.

Did you try using the print core from the printer that is working well in the printer that is having issues? That would eliminate the print core being an issue. Also check your fan, make sure there aren't any itsy bitsy fine filament goodies wound around it's axle. It does look like it's too hot.

I know this is an older post... But in case someone find this thread with the same question I had. I put the magnetic adhesive side on a glass bed (I dedicated a glass bed for this purpose). I use the metal flex plate with whatever film you want on it. The films will last quite a while especially if you move the objects you are printing to different areas to maximize the use of the film (I do not print every part in the very center). You do NOT have to do anything as the S5 autoleveling will just work even though the glass plate + magnetic base + metal flexplate +film are thicker than the Ultimaker glass bed. So far I have used the BuildTak system and it works and also the WhamBam. Both just work, no adjustments to any kind of configs or anything. And I REALLY like using the flexible plates. It makes life so much easier that I bought a second flex plate. I can print faster now that I can quickly take one out and let it cool while the next object is printing (objects pop off much better when they have cooled down). Did I mention I REALLY LIKE using the flexible plate!