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I think @neotko and @aggertroll explained it very well Let us know if this held the solution and select the answer as 'Best Answer' which you found most helpful.

Have you checked out our latest materials Schooling blog?

Anders is not posting himself anymore? vbulletin is not going to happen, sorry. Hopefully you or Anders will share more information about this interesting 'add on', and hopefully the endless plea for a vbulletin forum will also come to an end. I will appreciate it if we could keep this thread on topic, thank you.

Welcome to the forum! Hopefully you have learned a lot, and you'll also give back some of the knowledge you have gained and will gain down the line About your questions: Can I pull the SD card out of the printer once a part has started printing? Nope. It will stop/cancel/ruin your print. First layer: You probably need to reconsider your bed levelling. Pictures are always good! If you can add a picture from your first layer we could probably give you some good pointers. Originally, your first layer should be 0.3. It is also set so in Cura. Did you change this? It is best to keep your top layer a multitude of your layer height. So either go for 0.8 or 0.9 There is a Pause feature that can pause your print at Z. Check Cura plugins for this feature. Good luck!

It is a pretty crucial part of the Ultimaker design, without it you are bound to get in trouble. Why did you remove it in the first place?

Is there a blockage at your nozzle-area? If you want to test, this could be a suggestion to give a try.

Install the second fan, enable better cooling and print it again?

Nice! So smooth. ... medicine? How do you use it as a demo as a vet?

I think I would probably have known and I can't think of a single case where this has happened.

Thank you for your post. Do you have an Ultimaker 2, or Ultimaker 2+? Because the Ultimaker 2+ has a geared feeder to make it stronger, it also means the extrusion direction is actually in reverse. Because of the gear. My feeling is you are either printing Ultimaker 2-files, or have installed Ultimaker 2 firmware. Have you installed new firmware? Are you slicing in Cura? Make sure to add your machine, double check if it is the regular or '+' and try again Looking forward hearing from you how it goes!

Hi George, It sounds like the size you have set for your buildplate is off a little bit. What size have you set in S3D? Unfortunately I don't have it myself so I can't give you any directions, but that would be a very obvious reason. The filament dump it does prior to a print is called priming. It is building up pressure in your nozzle so it can do a extruder a solid first layer. Does your print start from the front right corner? Why does it move from front left, to front right, avoiding the left clamp and hitting the right clamp? Thanks!

We have seen them. But I can imagine, the creative and expert group of people we are, we could even think of other nozzles / applications as well. If not.. makes our job a whole lot easier

Why do you think the nozzle has a lot of friction? Could you also upload some pictures of your feeder? Have you checked if none of the internal parts of the feeder show any signs of wear? Could you also upload a close up picture of your knurled wheel? - is it clean?

Hi Guys, Hope you are all doing fine! Another opportunity has presented itself where you as a user can be of influence again of what we do here at Ultimaker. I am very curious to hear the input you can all provide on the following matter; As you know the Olsson Block has made its way to our range of products and is now sitting reliably in the Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2 Extended+. This means swapping nozzles becomes more accessible for our users, and this does not just mean less down time for maintenance, or even printing more detailed with the 0.25mm nozzle. It means there is room for alternative nozzles, maybe nozzles that possibly work better with abrasive materials. Or materials that require higher temperatures, for materials that don't work well with brass, nozzles that are less prone to oozing, handle flexible materials better, you name it!! Consider popular materials like nylon, carbon fiber, abs, colorFabb's metal-specials, flexible materials and protopasta as a source of inspiration. So.. My question is; having the option to work with swappable nozzles, what is the type of nozzle you would like to see? What nozzle do you need for your project? Of course, with (for example) flexible materials there is more to it than just a different shaped nozzle to make it easier to use, but it can contribute. The (internal) shape of a nozzle can be of real influence on how a material behaves during or before it is being extruded. If you don't have the solution, but only a need.. let me hear it! I'm curious to see what input you can all give me. Thanks guys!

If you reach out to FBRC8 they should be able to get you a fan pack I think? Yes. I cut and stripped the existing wire, connected the second fan and re-soldered and heatshrunk the entire deal back together. I did need to tune down fan speed to approx 40% otherwise the fans would just blow the filament away instead of cooling it down.

lolIs there a way if you can see if it is the bearings wobbling in your housing, or the rods having room to play in the bearings? Good that you're getting new bearings. Keep us posted! By the way, what is the quality like that you have had on your Ultimaker 2+? Was it bad surface finish, or something else?

'Does it wobble in both X and Y directions?' he asked, humbly looking down, avoiding eye contact with the mighty Atomic Bob. Don't have any other records of this so I am also inclined to think your bearings are at fault. Let us know what is what, and note @Neotko's comment about installing them in X-orientation instead of +. Good luck!

I installed a dual fan on my original 'back in the days'. It was paralel to the current fan, and it was the same model. I think it was a very good upgrade. I used a fan shroud which I can't find anymore..

haha nice!!

Hi @Ozatapo, Welcome to the forum! Cura can handle .obj files as well, so make sure to convert your file into a solid mesh and upload it in Cura. In Cura you can convert your .obj into a gcode by selecting your 3D printing profile and you are ready to go

Noooo don't get the fuego ignited again. @Cloakfiend finally calmed down There were difficulties getting the cartridge heater out, and the PT100 I believe, but from the latter a spare one was at hand. I believe we were waiting at the spare parts to arrive to revive the precious Ultimaker.

To elaborate on Nallaths post about auto calibration. Most 3D printers that have auto-bed levelling level the bed every print. Usually at 3 or 4 points on the bed. This can take easily a few minutes, if it goes right. Plus heating up a bed and printhead I wouldn't be surprised starting a print can take close to 10 minutes. Not having this feature saves you a lot of time. Yes, you do need to learn what the best calibration is. But once right, you don't have to do it again for months. But everyone who owns a 3D printer is in it to make things. It would be the last audience I would expect to be wary of getting involved with a machine. Regardless how low that level of 'involvement' is. Not saying it is a useless feature, but there are big pro's to our bed levelling which are easily overlooked. Just because it is 'automated' doesn't mean it is better.

How did your response get lost? Curious to see what you'll be making, make sure to let us know through our 3D print-section

If you could upload a picture of your current construction / status that would probably be very helpful Thank you!

Well, sounds like it got to enjoy a nice overall clean while you were at it