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SandervG

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Everything posted by SandervG

  1. It is uploaded, I understand servers are catching up and approx in the upcoming few hours it should be available to everyone always. Now it shows up to 1 in 3 visits. (secret trick, if you refresh your page you can beat the odds and it will show up after 2 or 3 refreshes). Sorry for the inconvenience guys!
  2. I heard you talk about it the other day, is this a result of those conversations?
  3. If you are interested, Ultimaker Cura 3.3 | Beta was just released Here is a link to the post with some more information!
  4. After another period of continuous research and development, we're proud to share the latest Ultimaker Cura Beta with you. We're excited to hear what you think of the new and improved features. With your help, we can improve on it further and fix any bugs our testing may have missed. A few things that stand out for me in this Beta version are: A circular prime tower, for more reliable dual extrusion prints Bridging , a new experimental feature detects bridges, adjusting print speed and fan speed. Configuration/sync , when you use Cura Connect you can sync Cura to show which Ultimaker 3D printers are available with their configuration and you can slice accordingly. Should save us at least a few walks A support blocker, allowing you to select areas where you don't want support to be generated (Thanks @ahoeben !) Some smaller updates: - The font has been updated to NotoSans. Some users had rendering issues on Mac OSX which should be fixed now and generally offer better readability. - Model assistant, models sliced with ABS, PC, PP or CPE+ that have a larger footprint than 15*15*15cm will activate some handy modeling tips that could ensure better results. - The plugin browser has an updated look and feel, and has been updated with 3 new plugins. Scalable extra prime Print temperature offset Enclosure fan We’d like to thank our contributors, including @ahoeben , Pheneeny, @smartavionics and @thopiekar ! Please note: We’ve thoroughly tested this beta version, which offers great functionality and improved features. However, it’s still in the beta stage, which means we can’t guarantee the same print reliability as our stable versions. If you’re working on an important project, we strongly recommend that you use the latest stable version of Ultimaker Cura. Gotten curious? Download Ultimaker Cura 3.3 Beta here Need some more information first? Check out our blog with some more features explained!
  5. I agree! Little tip; when you tag a person you have to select the username from the dropdown list following @.. this is necessary to make a link to the database with user-accounts and you are not just writing something with an @. It would be the difference between @yellowshark and @yellowshark. Perhaps it could be a nice plugin. I assume it is something one would select through file > export or something, and it doesn't generate a .csv automatically?
  6. Hi kman, what a great news you have stopped smoking. Sorry it took feeling so miserable to put down the cigarettes, but if that will be the long lasting takeaway you may indeed come out better How will it also be better for your printers? So they are still white after using them for some time, instead of yellow-ish?
  7. SandervG

    Howdy

    Hi @Ianmark , welcome to the community! Hopefully you find all the help you need and you will share your experiences with us in return Curious to see what you will be making!
  8. Nice print @vitalsparks . The smallest print I think I made is from a while back; this ultibot of (I have to guess) like 5mm wide.
  9. Hi @walterw , what do you define as printing? Does it need to be on or does it need to be running a g-code? Do you also need to be able to detect if it is (for example) under extruding or when the filament ran out, since that technically is not 'printing', or does that not matter? If you care to know if it is actually running a g-code and printing a model, installing a webcam is probably the most straightforward way.
  10. That is very, very impressive print! How many parts does it consist of? Did you do, or are you going to do any more post processing? And did you make it for your own collection or does it serve another purpose as well? Thank you for sharing this with us!
  11. Hi, thank you for your post! Can you share with us why your past attempts failed to print with TPU? Perhaps you can share a photo of your print. If you could do this using the default settings it would be most easy to compare settings. And are you trying to print a specific model or just anything? Thanks!
  12. I was planning on scheduling the next one around the end of this month or beginning of next. But I haven't pinpointed it exactly. If you have a subject or person you want to nominate; let me know!
  13. In general I think gr5 has the best tips but I would advice against this I believe active leveling calibrates your bed to 0.1mm distance between your nozzle and glass plate, and Cura's first layer is 0.27 which should ensure a good squish on the build plate. For Gr5 the above may work, but in my opinion 'an expert' who does 'a manual level' without a calibration card leaves too many insecurities/room for error.
  14. Hi @rjd and @brightorange, I just verified internally and you should indeed be able to count on Ultimaker in this case (well, I like to think you can always count on us :)) What does it mean? Your reseller or our partner in your area should replace your print cores or service the print head, depending on the intensity of the clog. When your print got loose and you have a flooded print head it is important though that you contact your reseller before you attempt to clean it yourself. This is to determine the best course of action to a fix, like to have it serviced by an Ultimaker partner or you clean it yourself and receive necessary parts which could not be cleaned. This needs to be mutually agreed to with your reseller. When you try to clean it yourself and damage parts without having consulted your reseller, you may not get parts replaced. So, I don't know any details or context of your previous experience BrightOrange, but this is the service you should be getting from Ultimaker. Hope this helps!
  15. I think you would be surprised how often this is not the case actually. Sometimes someone just decides a school needs a 3D printer.
  16. Hi @brightorange, I replied to your DM. It would be helpful when you have time, if you would be willing to reply and supply us with some more information. Thank you!
  17. Hi @ksmilejun , I don't think anyone of us speaks Korean, sorry! The thread you have replied to is not related to an 'Ultimaker 4', so your comment was a bit unexpected, which raised some questions. Since you are in the 'English speaking' part of the forum, please use google translate if you want to participate in the conversation and your English is not strong enough. Alternatively, there is also an 'other languages' section on our forums, you may find some other Korean speaking friends there. Did you already right a post there? Thank you!
  18. That would indeed be helpful if you would like to do so. Feel free to send me a DM with some more information. Perhaps your account did not allow you to do so earlier since you had a new account and during your first two posts you have limited rights (we need to do this to prevent spam), but now you should be able to send a DM. Thank you.
  19. Hi @brightorange, thank you for your fast reply, it is much appreciated. Must have been quite an assembly, your first kit. Which 3D printer did you start with? What you say sounds fair and true. I would agree around 90% of failures can be detected/prevented in the first layer, but yea.. it is 90%, not a 100%. So 10% still remains. It is good to realize not every loose print would result in such a blob as you have experienced. You should be able to rely on your Ultimaker to run independently, especially if you made sure it was off to a good start. I have send some questions to my designated colleagues, but given the time of day, it was already out of office time. Hopefully tomorrow there will be an update (or at least some wheels in motion) and I'll share it back with you once I have some news. Thank you for your time and patience, it is much appreciated!
  20. It is, but that only goes for you. Not the rest of us
  21. Hi @brightorange, thank you for your reply. What is misleading about kman's response? You speak of a clog, and even though you can now consider your printhead as clogged the origin of this problem was not a clog. It was a print that got loose from your build plate. This may not be relevant for finding a solution, but good to realize nonetheless. And although you can have a clog with every 3D printer, even previous Ultimaker generations could have filament accumulating around the heater block, but this used to be easier to clean because the hot end was much simpler. The Ultimaker 3 print head (and print cores) are more advanced, the upside is they are capable of more things but the downside is that if all the pieces of the puzzle fall in the wrong places, such a blob is more 'catastrophic' for your head and more difficult to clean. We're sorry you had to experience this first hand. Like you have stated, and I also see your post in the moderator queue, you seem to have found a piece of communication from Ultimaker to our sales partners. Because it states 'Salespartner only', I will not approve that post because it was not intended to be shared publicly. But I don't think it holds any dark secrets. Of course we (Ultimaker) know about the (small) chance that this can happen. In the design of the Ultimaker 3 we tried to reduce the chances of this happening to a bare minimum by inserting the silicon sheet and rings at the bottom of your printhead. The best thing you can do as a user to prevent such a thing from ever happening is ensuring your print won't get loose. Like using active leveling, clean your glass plates, use potentially recommended adhesives and suggested temperature and speed for your heated bed / initial layer. There are several threads on our forums that go more in depth about bed adhesion. But still, we think it is better to keep all of our sales partners informed and prepared so when a customer checks in with such a problem, they know what most likely happened and know immediately how to fix it. This should shorten the time it takes to solve your problem faster and improve the customer experience overall. Policy is we should always look for the best and reasonable solution for our customers. That you have to pay for the damaged print cores may slightly depend on your specific situation, hard for me to say, but let me check internally if that is indeed intended policy or not. Thank you for your time and patience. I'm sure we'll get you back to 3D printing shortly!
  22. Hi @geert_2 thank you for your feedback! I have had it too a few times. For me refreshing the page always helped and with this new forum software, my post has always been saved and I could just continue my message Have you tried this as well?
  23. Hi Everyone, sorry to hear about the damaged printhead. The advice everyone has been giving here has been spot on. It happens when your print get detached from the bed. Although it doesn't always happen when your print gets loose. We did take precautions in the design of the Ultimaker to prevent this from happening. Like the silicon cover in the bottom of your printhead and the rings around the nozzles of your print core. Unfortunately, with the right amount of bad luck a print head can still flood on rare occasions. That is why we and our resellers do what we can to help our users. I assume @brightorange, @wydmynd and @rjd are different users right? The comments kinda complete each other so I wasn't entirely sure about it. Anyway, if I am not mistaken you should be able to rely on the services of your reseller to fix this for you. If you could send me the name of your reseller and country (in a DM if you want) and we'll see if there is a (communication) problem somewhere on the line. Thank you for your time and patience, I'm sure we'll have you back in 3D printing in no-time.
  24. Hi @Futz34 , what are your retraction settings and what is your print and travel speed? It would also help if you could add a photo of your stringy prints
  25. Thank you for your updates @BrunoP , it is good to have found the reason for your findings. Both for you and everyone else reading this. Thank you for keeping us informed
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