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SandervG

Dormant
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Everything posted by SandervG

  1. Hi @Hansi22, Thank you for your post and welcome to the forums! It is not really clear to me what it is that you are looking for. Do you want to print that car? If you want to print that car specifically (or any other car model), your best bet is to browse the online repositories like YouMagine, Thingiverse or Yeggi for a volkswagen STL or OBJ. Good luck!
  2. Version 1.0

    1,145 downloads

    Made one set in bronzefill and another set in copperfill. Requires a lot of post processing. Thanks to @3DofTom for designing the pieces! Printed in 80% infill so really heavy.
  3. SandervG

    Stamp

    Version 1.0

    902 downloads

    This was printed with a .25mm nozzle at 60 micron, default setting of Cura 2.3. This displayed model is 2,5cm in diameter, even printed a model of approximately 1 - 1,5cm in diameter which came out great in detail. It is a stamp to use on hot wax. (and it should have been mirrored d'oh!)
  4. Hah, cool! You should be happy you did not abort the print. How is the surface of your model around where the support is starting to form in mid air? Sometimes the mysterious ways of a 3D print continue to amaze me
  5. Hi Guys, Since the beginning of the week we have been challenged by some bugs for a few days but from today on they should have been fixed again. Let me know if you have any further questions or difficulties. @Cloakfiend, perhaps it is better to post your question in the Cura thread?
  6. I don't think it was done intentionally. I do know I was not part of the decision... It would be a strange manifest of a bug but hell.. I think we have seen stranger things..
  7. @Titus, haven't heard from you in a while. Was starting to get worried How have you been? Alright, I'll see how easy it is to only show a blue bubble when there are notifications and no bubble if there is nothing. I guess the blue bubble catching your eye works best if it is not always there. For the time being.. the '0' that is in it, could also be an indication for the amount of new replies waiting for you -- And overall I wished that we would not have trait one annoying thing for another, how about no spam, and no errors? Anyway, after a passionate discussion, it has given top priority to fix. So I am hoping on a sunny day tomorrow with a blue sky. Sky. No more blue screens.
  8. Hi Nilrog, Thank you for your message. This was also reported in the forum feedback thread not too long ago and addressed with our development team. At the beginning of this week an update to the site was uploaded but unfortunately contained some bugs. These are now top priority to fix. I will try to get a timeline on this specific issue too, where it stands within the current list of tasks they are scheduling. Our apologies for the inconvenience!
  9. Hi Mark, Thank you for your reply. What is it exactly what you mean by 'solved', in regard to the search? Is it not working for you yet? As far as I know, and feel free to correct me if I am wrong, the search works pretty good now. About the badge system, regardless of how high I try to push the community, sometimes I have to admit it is also a part within Ultimaker, just as many others. We have only one team of developers and in this context, it means that sometimes the planning is being altered and some plans are given priority over other plans. Currently, the team is doing some needed maintenance to the site (and have been for a little bit longer) and fixing large parts of the code (I am not a developer myself so I can't really go in depth here.) This has a large priority over other things if we want to have a healthy website which is ready for the future. Maybe you have experienced it, but in the beginning of the week we made some 'improvements' to the site, and this resulted in some unexpected bugs to the forums. There are some 500 errors, and I know some users have some difficulties posting replies or new topics. Which is pretty bad for a forum.. On top of the existing workload to do the maintenance, they are now also busy trying to reproduce these bugs and fix them. This all accumulates to, among other things, the badges which was once pretty high on the agenda, to be pushed back. To get more in depth on the badge topic, there is a proposal with our designer in regard of the new badges, what they are suppose to look like. Maybe you don't really care about it, but I don't think they should take much longer. Applying them will be mostly manual work for me. So until it is automated (that timeline is unclear for now), I will try to be as conclusive as possible and appoint badges and points to everyone who deserves them! If I miss something, by all means, send me a line or tag me, and I will come to the rescue! Not ideal, but I am trying to row with the oars that are given to me.. - by the way, the points should now match the badges, don't they?
  10. ohh, you are a fan of Die Antwoord? Cool! It is quite hard to see what it is exactly that is happening. The black kinda merges into one big black object. If you want to battle delamination, it is usually recommended to print slower, thicker layers, no fan, and maybe close the front of your Ultimaker 2. Have you tried any of these things?
  11. Hi Manuel, thank you for your post and welcome to the forums! I believe you have also been in touch with us through Facebook, and we advised you, just like Labern, to get in touch with your reseller, iGo3D. As soon as we found out about the issue, we took the necessary steps to train and prepare our partners so they are ready and waiting. They will be able to give you the service you deserve and get you back to 3D printing as soon as possible. Good luck, and hopefully we hear back from you once you are back up and running!
  12. Hi @Meulenel, welcome to the forums and thank you for your post. Given the Ultimaker Original has an open frame, it could be something like draft. This can be easily tested though, by shielding your machine with some cardboards or even covering it with a plastic bag (like a garbage bag maybe?) You don't have to leave it on there forever, but it could give you some more insights in isolating the problem. Do you have a photo of your Ultimaker Original? What parts exactly did you upgrade to an Ultimaker 2? I am also curious to see what your hot end looks like, perhaps your fan could be cooling the heaterblock. Have you tried this with a variety of colors, do all of them give you similar problems? Looking forward hearing from you, thank you!
  13. Hi Geert, Thank you for your suggestion. I'm sorry to hear you have lost some lengthy replies. Hopefully it has not been too much of an inconvenience. I will have to double check with the developers, but it was my impression that there was no auto log-out shorter than an hour. Do you have any settings in your browser that remove cookies? Do you have 'remind me' enabled when logging in? Do you have several tabs open and you are posting in a previous opened tab? When I do this, sometimes when I press send my reply is not posted. It is also not lost though. The page refreshes and I can press send again. Do you think you can document your workflow, that could allow us to replicate your logging out issue, and maybe we can find a bug or help you in your process?
  14. Hi, In my days I have printed several wrenches, and it was a mixture of successful ones and failed ones. A few things to keep in mind, scaling. I would not recommend to scale it smaller, the tolerance would become even smaller. If the current tolerance does not work for you, you can try to make it slightly bigger. It is recommended to print on the low side of temperatures, to reduce any stringing. Lowering the temperature of your heated bed could also contribute reducing the heat radiation that could make your gears sag, but you have to keep in mind that there is something to create adhesion. (If it is not heat, you could try blue tape for example). A high resolution, thin layers, could also help to make the insides smoother. What I found most crucial, is to get a great first layer. It should stick well, but you don't want elephant feet. You don't want to squash it too much because if the flattened layer will become bigger than the tolerance, it can prevent the wrench from moving properly. It is not an easy print, but doable. Good luck!
  15. Thank you for the suggestion and helping making Cura better. I know the tower is something that has been changed a couple of times and several improvements have been made. I do not know if the current one fits in the developments, but I will definitely forward it so our software team can have a look at it. I am happy your print came out alright @Fabreax!! It looks amazing!
  16. My understanding from the Discov3ry extruder is that it uses regular silicones that you can get at your local hardware store. The downside is that the resolution you can achieve is not the same as with printing PLA. It is much softer and doesn't solidify as fast as PLA. So it will sag a bit more, and I don't think it does retractions very well. But for more simple shapes like pads, rings, solid shapes, I think it can do a decent job. Is that what you mean?
  17. Hi @Benburger, thank you for your post and welcome to the forums! Good to read your Ultimaker 2 Extended+ works By turning the set screw on the top of your feeder you can change the tension on the spring in the feeder. Since it works now, and it is 'out of the box' it should be fine, but it is something you can look at for future references. Somewhere around the middle should be fine. Alternatively, maybe there was something else near the printhead, that obstructed the filament from moving further (could be a clog or an unwanted edge somewhere) and that prevented it from extruding. Was the tip of the filament you are feeding a clean cut, and are there no edges to get caught somewhere? It is advised to make sure the tip is straight and pointy. Good luck, and curious to see what you will be making! If you want, feel free to share it with us in our 3D Print section
  18. I would also recommend to get in touch with your reseller, they should be able to help you. What you could do is use a blow-dryer to warm up the plastics and remove it with some pliers, but in any case I would verify with your reseller first. Maybe they suggest to just replace it. However, I don't think it is a leak coming from your printcore, unless you made some modifications to it. I am more inclined to think your print got detached from the bed during your print and the plastic just crawled up in your printhead and forming a blob of plastic. The silicon, when in good condition and installed correctly, should prevent this. But perhaps it was either not in good condition, or not installed correctly.. or you just had a lot of bad luck. But if you would ask me, that is what happened, and not a leak. Your reseller should be able to help you Good luck and keep us updated!
  19. Hi @Fabreax, thank you for your message. If I understand it correctly, your Ultimaker 3 (Lets call it UM-A) connects over wifi, but it is just the camera that is not working? If so, I would suggest you check if the cable is loose. I am also going to share your post / experience with my colleagues from R&D to get some input from them. Could you give me an overview of what the status is of your other Ultimaker 3's in regard of connectivity > wifi & camera? (Lets call them UM-A, UM-B and UM-C to keep that clear). So, UM-A > Wi-fi: Connected. Camera: No. UM-B > etc. Looking forward hearing from you, and thank you for your time.
  20. Hi Fabreax, I will send you some guidelines in a DM on how to work ESD safe! Thank you.
  21. Hi @Sproutdesign, Thank you for your post. I understand you need a reliable printer, and that is exactly what we do our very best for, to offer you! And if something in your Ultimaker 3 is not working like it is suppose to, you should be able to rely on us (and our partners) to get you back to 3D printing asap. In this case, your error message can have a few different reasons. Have you tried checking the cables, like JazzyChad who posted before you? Alternatively, it can be related to some cables going to your feeder, the printhead pcb or the mainboard. We do not recommend to check on those last two yourself, due to other risks of damaging anything else in the electronics. The machine is electrostatic sensitive, so it is very important to work ESD-safe. If it is not the cable, I would recommend to get in touch with 3DGBIRE and have them help you. We put a lot of effort in training our partners, and they also have some certified technical support engineers who should be able to give you the assistance you need. Good luck and feel free to keep us updated on how it is going!
  22. Hi Phantom, have you checked with your local reseller? I think you should be able to get them from them. If you are in the Netherlands, you could check with Makerpoint or Trideus. I think you mean this part?
  23. You met with Charles? I also met him last year in June, pretty cool guy! And I like what he is doing with his extruder. I have one, haven't had the opportunity to try it but using silicones I can imagine one could make some pretty handy things. The feeding process took quite some time to get started, but you know.. good things come to those who wait
  24. The point of enclosing is to keep the heath in and preventing any draft entering your printer. So some cardboard boards or even a plastic (garbage?) bag could do the trick! (it won't look fancy, but we got to prioritize right? )
  25. Lets see what I can do! Can you send me your address details in a DM just in case?
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