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Yes but that won't get the build plate over 400C. That error happens when you get an open in the wiring.

Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and choose "check mesh". Possibly try "fix normals" which tells cura which side of every wall is solid and which side is air. Please share your project file: go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here.

Ha! This is basically the only question as I see it. 1) Well you can switch to 6 lines and make them all thinner. That may work better than you would suspect. With a 0.4mm nozzle you can typically set "line width" down to 0.3mm (75%) without too much loss of quality. So I'd try that. Usually 75% to 150% range works okay. Thin walls are tricky 2) The new version of Cura - the "alpha" version supposedly does things much different and I think *maybe* it can do 5 lines instead of 6 for walls? I read what it does differently... and then forgot most of it but I seem to remember it can do walls with odd numbers of lines? Maybe? Or maybe it will be able to when complete? It's still many months away from completed I think but it's worth a host. 3) The "MB" version of cura just does a much nicer job with thin walls. I don't understand why - it just does in certain cases. Your walls might not be thin enough that there is any difference. I'm not sure what MB does differently but you could give it a shot. It's quite safe to use and try out. "MB" are initials of a user on this forum "burtoogle" aka "smartavionics": https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases

If you tell us what kind of printers you have, someone else may have the same printer. Did you find your printer on the list of printers in Cura? If no one can help you then you are probably going to have to take a good gcode file and one from cura and look at the first 30 or so gcodes and look them all up and understand what's going on. I can answer specific questions about what g92 does or what G28 does but your issue does not sound familiar (but I only have Ultimaker printers).

In "mesh fixes" make sure "union overlapping volumes" is unchecked.

He means reboot your whole computer that you are running Cura on. It could also be that the SD card is write locked. Try saving instead to your hard drive and dragging the file onto the SD card and see if that also won't work.

https://fbrc8.com/products/heated-bed-panel-and-cableum3-um3x Okay I can see in the picture at the above link that it's a press fit connection. I'd fill those connectors with a bit of solder as it seems to me that's the most likely point of failure. You could check the other end of the cable under the printer but with the print bed going up and down often and with experience from my UM2 heated bed failure I suspect those press fit connectors (or whatever they are called). Again - the smaller 2 wires - where they connect to the heated bed in the photo above.

er14 is definitely related to build plate. Not cores. Not print head. If you go to the web page it's pretty clear it is seeing max temp. Which is something like 500C. Which means your house has been placed in a furnace. Or there is a problem reading the temp sensor. If there is an open (for example broken wire) you will get this error. Usually the problem happens right at the connector. I'd take apart the print bed and unscrew the cable and carefully remove the build plate without twisting the wires too much. The larger 2 wires go to the heater. Your problem is the sensor - the smaller 2 wires. Maybe take a photo of how that connector works. There's many ways for the failure to occur. Do you have a soldering iron or a friend who does? Maybe reflow the solder - I'm not sure what the UM3 buildplate looks like as I've only taken apart my UM2 buildplate and the UM3 is likely different. Maybe remove the two sensor wires, make sure they are clean, and put them back in there nice and tight.

To make your "slots" more vertical set horizontal expansion to a positive value. To make the slots wider/horizontal set horizontal expansion to a postive value. Horizontal expansion only expands your part in X and Y but not Z. It's not like scaling. It makes all walls thicker and everything thicker. It doesn't affect dimensions in Z. In the pictures you posted, the display only showed the *center* of the extruded traces and didn't show the line width applied so it makes your horizontal holes look wide even though they shouldn't be in real life. You should be able to print everything with horizontal expansion set to 0. If holes are horizontal slots then you probably have underextrusion. Pretty severe underextrusion. Fixed by getting a more powerful feeder or printing hotter or much slower (try half speed you've been doing).

@baroberts - also what is the actual nozzle width of your printer and what is "line width" set to in your cura settings? Ideally you want them to be the same value. If line width is large it does something very similar to setting "horizontal expansion" to a negative value.

@baroberts - that 3mf file is created from some version of cura not compatible with the latest (4.8). Are you using the alpha version of cura? I don't want to install that right now - check your "horizontal expansion" setting. Also try cura 4.8 and slice with that. If horizontal expansion values are all zero and you still have the problem then try cura 4.8 and if you still have the problem then post the project file created with cura 4.8 please.

I don't know but the 0.9 deg steppers doesn't matter. This only affects the setting "steps/mm" which is on the printer itself and should be already in the firmware before they ship the printer. It's probably the same printer profile as for the other biqu printer (if it's in cura already). It's up to companies that make these printers to get them added into cura or to provide instructions on how to setup your printer in cura. Perhaps they published instructions. Likely (hopefully) they did.

I suspect it's an illusion due to the fact that it shows the filament infinitely thin. Although it's possible you set "horizontal expansion" to a negative value. Please share your project file: go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here.

How do you know it's the heat bed and not the nozzle that is giving the "maxtemp" error? If it doesn't mention the bed it could be the nozzle in the error. Well you can print without heating the bed if you put blue tape on the print bed. This can get you started for now. "blue tape" is any painting tape from the paint store. It's important to wash the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol before you start printing - this removes the waxy surface so your filament will stick to it. Just a quick 5 second cleaning using a tissue and IPA is fine. You have to relevel after applying blue tape. Having the heated fail bed is common. Usually you have to resolder the cables at the bed - but this is only for true UMO+ printers - there is another type of UMO with heated bed kit that has a more common issue. Could you take a few photographs? One of the print bed looking down towards the rear of the printer, one of the print head, and one of the underside of the printer (with covers on is fine). Thanks.

That's the problem with support. There's not much you can do where support touches your model however... You can rotate these models. Have you considered a different rotation? You might be able to print with zero support in certain orientations. Or if not then at least you can pick which side is uglier. Or you can buy a printer with dual extrusion and use a different material for the support (like breakaway or PVA).

That tower - because it's so small - might need extra cooling (100% fan) or even print a second tower just to the side of the print so the tower layers have a few more seconds to cool before the next layer is placed on top.

GOOD START! 40C air temp is perfect. Don't go much hotter or you risk damaging your servos. 40C should be fine though. Excellent temp for ABS (by the way I recommend you pick a different material than ABS but that's another subject). 215C is much too cold. 240C is more reasonable. What is your fan speed? Did you turn the fan off? If so then that's the problem. That small tower needs extra cooling. Normally I recommend around 1/4 power so I listen to the noise the fan makes at 100% and keep lowering it until it sounds much quieter. 25% is NOT necessarily 1/4 power. Make sure the fan actually spins. Sometimes you set the fan to say 20% and the fan doesn't spin at all. Typically it takes a little extra to get it spinning and then it will go down to say 10% but if it stops for a second you need to go back up to 30% or something to get it going again. You want to pick a speed where it will start even if you stop the fans with your fingers and let go. Anyway, whatever your fan speed is I suspect it's too slow.

On the second link above they mention that you can make things even more flexible with 3d printing because with 3d printing you don't have to (and usually don't anyway) make prints 100% solid. So you can probably get away with higher shore hardnesses than you would use in a normal shoe product. So I would start with TPU as it's very popular, Ultimaker I think sells a TPU filament and it's MUCH easier to print than the even-more-flexible filaments.

40A is pretty soft. Keep in mind you have to push this material through the bowden and if it's too soft it just is like pushing a rubber band through a hole. It's going to get all wavy/kinky and fold over itself. Googling found me this page. Ninjaflex (shore 85A?) is the softest material I've printed and it was quite difficult. I can't imagine pushing something even softer through the bowden. https://filaments.ca/blogs/3d-printing/15475957-shore-hardness-of-flexible-3d-printing-materials I did see a 74A material here: https://www.3dprinteros.com/what-is-the-best-flexible-filament-for-my-3d-printing-needs-my3dmatter-study/ For ninjaflex I had to print very slow (like 10mm/sec) and I had to add drops of oil to the filament once every meter so that it would easily glide through the bowden with minimal pressure. Normally the feeder is pushing PLA through the bowden with incredibly high forces - like 10 pounds or 5kg of force - that's typical. But that won't work for ninjaflex filament or even softer filaments. I suspect that TPU which is significantly stiffer and easier to print (but makes great bike handle grips) might be good enough for the sole of a shoe. Not sure. According to that first page above, TPU is shore 95A.

Normally you don't need PID tuning for heated bed. It's not normally going to oscillate more than 1 or 2 degrees even in "bang bang" mode. Bang bang mode means PID is disabled and it's like a house thermometer - if it's even slightly above goal temp it's off. If it's even slightly below goal temp it's on. However you have a print bed that's around 400 to 600 watts (at 24V). That's one hell of a bed heater! Even if it's 1.2 ohms, at 24V that's 480 watts!! You can easily get that bed to 180C (360F). And hotter. That's hot. That's pizza oven hot. That's hot enough to melt everything in your printer that's not metal. So be careful! If it's possible to use the bed with a 12V supply instead then that might be safer. I'm almost certain that heated bed was meant to be used with 12V supply only. But it will work. There's also an option I think to reduce max power - certainly to the nozzle heater - but maybe also to the bed? If so you can set the max power to 50% or even lower.

For the S5 it's fine to have the cover on as there is a fan that keeps the air close to room temperature.

Yeah. then printedsolid.com is your best bed for covers but yes, ideally keep the doors open. It's hard to keep PLA sufficiently cool with the print bed at 60C as you want the air below 30C if possible. You can do it but the quality may go down a bit (it may look slumped a bit or stringy but will be mostly fine).

Then I'd play with line width.

He already tried "print thin walls". I'd try a higher resolution image. Make sure there are at least 5 pixels across on the walls. Even if that means a lot more pixels.

@tinkergnome - does this look good so far?