gr5

Oh! Good to know about that trick. agreed! People have been asking for this for years. Maybe mention it to your reseller as I think this is the best path to get feedback to Ultimaker.

The red/blue/green symbol shows where 0,0,0 is located (x,y,z)=(0,0,0). Which is the front left corner of your printer. You need to move that symbol to the front left corner: Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", Uncheck "origin at center". Also check the dimensions of your bed - for example, if it says your bed is 100mm wide but it is actually 200mm wide then it will be printing on the left half of your print bed.

Okay so instead of learning only about 5 gcodes you might have to learn one more: G28. That's the homing command. Just go for it - just start looking through the gcode. Also "M1" or "M0" - one of those I think does a "pause". 90% of the codes are in the first 20 lines and you can ignore most of them - they do things like fan, bed temp, nozzle temp.

This is called a "head flood" or "flooded head". Fixing this with a PLA flood isn't too bad. With ABS I suspect it's going to be a nightmare or maybe impossible. yes heat up the cores and also use a heat gun and tools such as needle nose pliers and expect it to take 30-60 minutes to get it mostly clean. Because this is ABS you may need to buy a new head and new cores. The cause of a head flood is sometimes that the door pops open during a print but this is very rare. Usually the problem is that the part came loose from the glass at a moment when it was wider than tall and then the head dragged it around like a hockey puck (if the part was taller than wide it would simply fall over and you get spaghetti). To prevent this from EVER happening again please watch this video. It's long at 20 minutes but packed with useful information:

@molliske - there's more to it than salt versus glue stick versus wood glue versus dimafix versus adhesion sheet. There's also rounded corners, brim, heat and most importantly squish. It's kind of a long video at 20 minutes but this explains why the corners lift and how to keep it from ever happening again:

@balint when you have two issues in the same thread - one issue always gets ignored. Please create a new thread. I have lots of good answers for you on the horizontal lines issue. Those scratches look really bad. I have one of the the first ever S5 printers and have no scratches like that (or maybe I have different lighting?). If it were me I would take the head apart and check the bearing. It's a simple metal tube. It could have a burr or maybe it's crooked? Anyway you should probably contact your reseller about those scratches. The resistance between X and Y should be identical. I tried again - pushing the head with one finger diagonally and I couldn't decide which axis has more resistance.

What kind of printer is this? I think you are going to need to probe this further yourself. You need to learn to read gcodes. They are pretty simple. "G0" and "G1" mean to move the steppers. F is the speed in mm/minute (60X more than mm/sec). X Y Z E are the 4 steppers. E5 means move filament 5mm. E6 means move one more mm (absolute mode which is most common - relative mode would mean move another 6mm - I don't think cura uses relative mode much). It turns out the gecode is quite easy to read. You will probably need the M codes for getting in and out of relative extruder mode. And read up on M82. That's it - that should be the only gcodes you need but they are all here: https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

I've used the exact same technique. Except without the twist ties. 🙂

Oh! That's nothing. I've heard UM printers much louder. Just caked in a layer of black dust. After many kilometers of filament printed. And they still work great. I'm pretty sure it's one of the 3 belts on the X axis but it's so hard to know which one. It could also be a bearing. How much worse is the friction between X versus Y axis?

When I'm in a rush I remove the glass bed from the printer. Then the printer sees things cooling down much faster. Then once the printer is happy you can put the glass bed back on the printer. You can also store the bed on something insulated like between 2 towels so it doesn't cool much.

It works!!!!!!!!!! 🙂

X and Y friction is identical on my S5 so... that's not good. When you put it back together you probably didn't push as hard down on the stepper than the original assemblers while tightening the 4 screws. This sets the tension. The tension may have been too high on that short belt. That's the only think I can think of that you might have fixed. Double check that the axis are square/perpendicular through the head. Do this by pushing the head all the way to the left and right sides and watch the sliding blocks to see visually the distance between the blocks and some part of the printer (do the same with the Y direction). There's no retraction during infill so you get more stringing there. You can change that setting but will get a slower print: remove combing everywhere. Combing moves don't retract. Non combing moves do. Alternatively "max comb distance with no retract" can increase retractions without going too insane - I'm not sure if latest cura has that feature but if you want it and it's not in your cura I can point you to the version of cura that has that (the burtoogle version).

In USA, try fbrc8.com. They are still building UM3 printers (I assume) along with UM2+Connect which I'm guessing all use the same heater so I'm pretty sure they have them. fbrc8.com builds all UM printers sold in USA so they usually have everything in stock. They don't always show all products in their web store but if you email them they usually reply quickly. To save time, include your printer serial number in the correspondence.

None of them seem to be visible by default but even if "invisible" they show up if you type the name of the setting in the settings search box. OH! Sorry. qty of extruders isn't in that list. Bummer. Neither is "nozzle switch retraction distance". I guess it's in the json file for you particular printer. It's getting more complicated. I've never modified a printer's json file so not sure I want to explain the process: you can edit the json file with your printer settings here. The files are in a "definitions" folder *somewhere* on your computer (no idea how to find this folder on a PC - maybe in %appdata%/cura/?? Here are 10 of the files out of about 106 different printer configuration files. Find your printer. geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/cura/share/cura/resources/definitions$ geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/cura/share/cura/resources/definitions$ geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/cura/share/cura/resources/definitions$ grep -R -i material_diameter * 101Hero.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, 3dator.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, abax_pri3.def.json: "material_diameter": { abax_pri5.def.json: "material_diameter": { abax_titan.def.json: "material_diameter": { anycubic_i3_mega.def.json: "material_diameter": bfb.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.7 }, bq_hephestos_2.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, bq_hephestos.def.json: "material_diameter": { bq_hephestos_xl.def.json: "material_diameter": { bq_witbox_2.def.json: "material_diameter": { bq_witbox.def.json: "material_diameter": { builder_premium_large.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, builder_premium_medium.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, builder_premium_small.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, If you do manage to fix it, please post here what you did. It should also be posted to github for cura project so it's fixed in future versions of cura because the next time you install an update to cura you will lose any of the changes you make in the json file.

after installing the plugin you have to restart cura. Then in settings there are a ton of settings in the "printer settings" category.

Oh! A permanent wifi ip address? That's very unusual. I was thinking static ethernet address. Here is some discussion. Note one of the answers was for a BBB (beagle bone black) which I think is very similar to the Olimex. This seems to have a few good answers. If none of these work then try googleing "olimex static wifi ip address" or "debian jessie static wifi ip address". https://stackoverflow.com/questions/31943490/how-to-set-static-ip-address-using-connman-for-wifi-network

Those aren't the settings. That's "settings visibility". Okay on the right side of cura click advanced as shown. Then in the search area enter a portion of the setting you are looking for (there are 500 settings). So like "adhesion" or "raft" or "temp" or "speed". Some of these will give you 10 or 20 answers but that's better than 500. Pictures are in reverse order - sorry. I still haven't figured out how to set the order.

It's almost certainly belt related. Look for black powder dust below the 4 corners of the printer. Particularly on the steppers. I've seen printers that make a horrible noise that still print great a year later. I would give it at least another 1000 hours of printing and then there is a block and pulley kit that replaces the 4 blocks and the 4 long belts. Another thing to check is that the long belts are exactly aligned above or below the 4 long rods. But often the noise is from a short belt which is harder to check if it's perfectly aligned. Also put one drop of oil on each of the 6 rods. Use any light oil like 3-in-one oil or sewing machine oil. See if this improves the friction (push head around by hand before and after). Anyway I wouldn't worry about it unless the noise is driving you crazy.

Ah. Hmm. I'm not sure but if it were me I'd try installing the printer settings plugin. It has a lot more features. Click "marketplace" in upper right of cura, make sure you are on "plugins", scroll down and alphabetically among the "P"s is "printer settings" plugin.

Yeah this is too vague. How many ohms is it exactly? I'm going to guess it's 200W at 18V so that means 355Watts. it would help if you ohmed it out or if there was a more specific specification. The wattage will change with the voltage so the question is "what's the wattage at 24V?". So do you have tinkerMarlin firmware? I assume not - that has some really nice features around power management. It would easily allow you to never use more than 150W (default UM2 heater). Please give the model number from your power supply. I assume it's one of these two: GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B So if you want to roll your own Marlin and don't want to use a tinker version then you have an option in Configuration.h: #define MAX_BED_POWER 255 255 means 100%. You want to restrict to 150W and I assume it's 355W so you want to restrict it to 42% (150/355=42%). 42% of 255 is 107. So set MAX_BED_POWER to 107. This should hopefully restrict power to 150W and your brick should be hopefully happy. It might not because 355W is going to draw a LOT of current when it's on. Let me back up - setting it to 107 will bean it will turn the bed on and off about 20X per second. So 21ms on and 39ms off. Your lights are going to flicker like crazy when the bed is on but I think it may work. But the printer will be pulling a LOT of current/power for 21ms before giving the supply a break for 39ms to recover. That might be too much. It will probably be fine. The main capacitors (they are like batteries that store up the power during that 39ms recovery) may get too hot but I think they will be fine. I'm pretty sure the supply can handle this. The voltage will be dropping 20X per second - down to maybe 22V or something but hopefully/probably nothing will care. The steppers won't care. The heater won't care. It should work. So: 1) What is the actual wattage of your bed at 24V? (if you know the resistance, the formula is wattage = voltage^2/resistance) 2) What firmware did you end up with? If you have tinkerMarlin you can fix your problem in the power budget settings 3) Which power supply do you have? There is one more option - get a bigger supply like you suggested. I doubt you can find a 500W 24V supply for less than the cost of your entire printer (You need 355W for the bed, 25W for your nozzle (what is the nozzle wattage?) and about 25W for the servos). And a final option is to get a supply just for the bed and add a relay and have that supply only power the bed. If you get a 18V supply then the bed will probably be only 200W which is more reasonable. Getting an 18V supply is not a good option as the servos work better at 24V but you can go that route also. Still 200W is too much for most power supplies. But a 300W 18V supply might work - but now you need a more powerful nozzle heater.

Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings" At that point there should be start and end gcodes visible in the bottom of that popup window.

The bed should be tough enough to handle hard scratching by the nozzle. It should be fine. I don't have an ender but the nozzle hits the bed often enough that the bed would be useless otherwise. If you disable auto leveling (does ender have auto leveling?) then just turn those 4 leveling screws to move the bed up. Try turning all 4 the exact same amount by 1/4 turn to start with. I show this in the video - were you able to watch the video? You might have to copy and paste into your browser as the link seems to not work quite right.

@IRobertI - can you answer this? I'm guessing that the 3 strips are in parallel such that you can remove one strip and the other 2 will be fine. Sometimes lighting strips are in series such that if you remove one strip the voltage is too high for the rest. I doubt this. But I am concerned that the voltage gets to the 3rd strip through the second strip meaning that if you removed the top one you would also lose power to one of the side strips. They seem useless and non-critical. Until you lose that light and you will miss it. A lot. I recommend you keep it all intact.

This is queued up to 1:07 in my video. Pause immediately and look at that frame that shows how much your first layer should be squishing: youtu.be/t58-WTxDy-k?t=67

Yes. I agree with smithy.