gr5

Cura will tell you. In layer view go to a "good" layer with the vertical slider. Then use the horizontal slider to see the order of printing. Then repeat on a "bad" layer. You can do this with one of your projects that you have saved and then reslice it before doing this. Or if you have the gcode file you can load that into cura and do the same thing. There are other gcode viewers also like repetier host, that show you each gcode and then highlight them in red on the model. But for purposes of CW versus CCW, cura is most likely the best option by far.

Sounds like 2 different issues. 1) The "time left" is wrong. This is common - usually it takes almost exactly the time that cura says it will take. But part way through the print it may think it will take much longer if the initial layers were more filament and the future layers are less. Even 10X as the upper layers may need 1/10th as much plastic. This issue is not normally a serious problem. 2) Air printing. What you describe sounds like underextrusion (or not extruding at all) but a photo would help. Anyway the UM2+ is notorious for underextruding due to the teflon part getting old. They are cheap and need replacing every few hundred hours of printing. Some will last only 200 hours, some will last 500 hours. They are cheaper than filament and are set to be at a good price because UM is nice and they know you will have to change that part often. There are other possibilites but this is the most likely.

You are probably printing too fast (too much volume) for the temperature. Try cutting the infill speed in half in cura or (only if PLA) try raising the temperature by 20C (but don't go over 240C). Or make the layer height smaller. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The S5 can do double these speeds but with some difficulty. If the above speeds (DANGER - cura has many speeds - check them all) are exceeded for your printing temp and layer height then that's the problem. If they are not exceeded then you have a hardware problem. I can help you diagnose if it's the core or the feeder.

The short answer is that in sketchup by default walls are white on the outside and gray on the inside. Right click on any visible gray walls and select "reverse faces" until all faces are white. The longer answer is here - and I really recommend you read this if you will be using sketchup a lot: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ It's a *very* easy read. A quick read. #9 is probably your issue but it could be one of the other sketchup gotchas. Sketchup is designed for architectural models and although it can do almost anything it doesn't do solid real-world parts/prints as well. If you are still new to sketchup then you might want to skip to a different cad package. This is an incredibly simple and spot on guide for picking a good cad: https://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448

It would be nice to see more photos of the shift - especially ones that show the worst shift. One possibility is that you have "play" or "backlash" (look it up in wikipedia). With printers that have noticable backlash if you print the same layer clockwise versus counter clockwise you can get shifts like you seem to describe. I would check to see if the shifted layers are CW and the unshifted layers are CCW (or opposite). Many times people have reported a bug in cura versus some other slicer only to find out that it was a hardware issue and the only difference in slicers was some minor speed difference, CW versus CCW, "wipe distance" or other minor thing. Sometimes a tiny change that shouldn't affect the print does affect the print.

It would help to see a photo of the print when it starts warping. I assume it's just the corners?

So there is more to bed adhesion then just proper leveling. You have to set the bed to 60C (which you've done) and you have to clean the bed of dust occasionally and you should put down a very very thin coat of glue as shown (3 different ways) in the video. You also need brim or rounded corners (or both).

First of all - it's 90% most likely that the bed is too low. You can confirm by pushing up gently on the bed as it prints the bottom layer. Secondly - you really need to watch this video. It's packed with details about getting parts to stick very very well and... well and why these tricks work.

Winding back the firmware on the S5 is highly discouraged as there are high voltages under the printer. Or you can just do the "manual extrusion" method I posted above since new firmware should be out within a few weeks. The UM3 isn't so bad to "rewind":

@ben1272 - If you could try printing PC again we can probably help you out. A photo of your "slumped" print would be good. Are you sure the fan was on for that print? Putting the cover on the top of the printer is a great start. That will get the air temp up to around 35C if the bed is at 110C (the hotter the better for air and bed but you don't want the air hotter than 60C because it's bad for the steppers. Unlikely you can get that kind of air temp without more heaters. The problem with PC is not that it tends to slump - it's the opposite - it solidifies so quickly (around 150C) that it tends not to get a good layer bond so the parts are weak and break along layer lines. The other problem is getting it to stick to the bed - parts can warp. But you didn't mention that as a problem. UM recommends adhesion sheets for PC. There are alternate tricks to get it to stick if you don't have adhesion sheets. Please show a photo of this "sagging" and "slumping". If it's what I think you mean then you need more fan. You probably want the absolute minimum fan where it just barely spins. But not spinning at all is a problem.

Do the manual feeding of filament as I mention a few posts up. Just lift that lever on extruder 2 and lift hard when it's printing with the second extruder. About 5 pounds (3kg) force. Hopefully a new firmware update will be out soon.

Did you try thingiverse.com? Do you have a 3d printer?

under and overextrusion look similar like layer shifting if it's only 20% underextruded or 20% overextruded. Most things look pretty good if the under or over extrusion is < 20%. Note that Z axis issues (Z axis doesn't move consistent distance every time) can also cause horizontal lines in a print. But this looks different.

I have had bad luck with profiles. I recommend instead you do "file" "save" and it will save your entire project as a 3mf file. Then when you later print something that needs a similar profile you find the 3mf file from the most similar profile and then delete the mesh and insert a new STL file.

I think I just said this in my post above. THERE IS A BUG IN 5.2 (the latest firmware as of today April 27 2019). So either don't upgrade your firmware or if you already upgraded you have to manually push the filament through the second extruder when doing XY calibration. With your hands. Or don't do XY Calibration. Or just enter 0 and 0 for X and Y calibration values as that's often close enough.

Here is someone else who printed with the nozzle too far from the bed. It barely stuck at all. You are probably somewhere in between - not sticking well but not as bad as the below photo shows. You can verify this by pushing the bed closer to the nozzle (if you have a cantilevered bed).

As you can see in this picture - I printed a single layer only and the "P" in "Paul" for example came out exactly as desired.

So I have the opposite problem. The bottom layer prints perfectly but the hole gets smaller as you move to higher layers. You need to "squish" more. You need the bed closer to the nozzle. What kind of printer is this? What kind of "leveling" procedure do you use? More on getting the bottom layer to stick well:

maybe the nozzle is too close. Maybe the nozzle is too far from the glass. Try pushing the glass up and down while it prints initially. maybe the filament ground up too much at the feeder. Push some filament through by hand while it's printing the bottom layer.

1) @Welverynyou are chaning the subject. Please post a new topic. 2) Did you install 5.2 upgrade? There is a known bug in 5.2 (latest firmware as of today, april 25, 2019) where XY Calibration does not work anymore on UM3 and S5 with latest upgrade. The workaround is to manually feed the second extruder when it starts drawing the lines with the second core.

Can you post a picture please? A few things occur to me right away: 1) Try turning off combing for all layers (certainly for the bottom layer). 2) Maybe your leveling is off (I know - you tried different leveling). 3) I don't have problems with circles so something is different about your circles. Please post a picture of the problem.

You should show the chair in "layer view". But it's going to be hard to get the bottom much better unless you get a UM3 and use PVA dissolvable support. Another option is to print the chair in parts and glue them together after they are all printed. Preferably use some kind of bump/hole combination to make gluing easier and stronger.

You can also get lots of information from the gcode file itself. The estimated print time is stored in comments at the top. In fact you can get the estimated print time for each layer by reading the comments at the start of each layer. Also at the end of the file you can see "all" the settings. Basically it tells you which profile you chose and which overrides were chosen. But preferably, do a "file" "save..." from the menus and save it as a 3mf file as well. That way you can load the 3mf file at any time and it will load: printer type, all the parts, part orientations and scaling, all settings. It's wonderful. I don't save profiles. I just save 3mf files as it works so well for me.

#3 could be split into: 1) gantry is bent 2) frame is bent causing gantry to be bent 3) plate is not perpendicular to vertical rods 4) vertical rods are not perpendicular to frame So our friend neotko had an issue he called "banana". One might call it "saddle". Where you can get any 3 points of the print bed level but to get 4 points level you can't because the bed is shaped somewhat like a sadle or potato chip. We'll call that "banana" here. The most common cause for severe banana is shipping - DHL and other's seem to manage to put an immense amount of weight onto opposite corners of the printer such that it is no longer a cube but trapezoidal. A bent frame will give you a banana gantry. I'd check that first. Does the printer sit flat on a table? Or does it rock? If the frame has banana then you need to loosen a lot of the frame screws and push it back into position and retighten. On extremely rare occasions back in the UMO days there were some "bad" frames where the wood shifted during cutting. Now all frames go through quality control. It's possible to order just one side of the frame. The base plate that you show as bent shouldn't matter as it connects to the heated bed through 3 points. You can't transfer "banana" through 3 points. You can just adjust the 3 screws to make the bed "level" with the gantry. The glass that comes with many UM2's (and even worse I think with UM3's) tends to be thicker in the center. But by only 1mm at the most and the amount of force to bend it flat is very small. Maybe an ounce. When I saw some banana in my glass - I "fixed" it by bending the rear 2 corners of the heated bed upwards firmly until a metal straight edge (a ruler) showed it to be level. Only after I was done did I realize that I could have damaged my heated bed - I had forgotten that the other side was a PCB heater. But it worked really well for me on my UM3. You can probably get a flatter glass from fbrc8.com. Measure the error very carefully and ask fbrc8 if you can do better with one of their glass beds for UM2. The process for making tempered glass makes it thicker in the center. You could buy ordinary window glass from your local glass place (any town that has buildings with windows has lots of glass places). You'd be amazed how cheaply you can get a piece of glass of the correct thickness and dimensions and ground smooth to remove sharp edges (probably $10). The only problem with non-tempered glass is that if it breaks the pieces are very sharp - tempered glass is designed to shatter into thousands of pieces if it breaks and it's not as dangerous.

It looks like it slipped to the left a bit - it looks like it lost some steps in one of the axes. That axis needs tightening or something. What kind of printer did you use? Is it one of those pritners where the print bed moves with the Y axis? Is that the axis that slipped? You might have to tighten a pulley set screw. Or something else. Or maybe there is too much friction in the slipping axis. Push the axes around and see if the "bad" axis has more friction. Maybe some oil can help.