gr5

There are 2 ways to get ER03. One way is lack of heating. The other way is faulty sensor. If it's faulty sensor typically as you are heating the nozzle you can watch the numbers climb and at some point they climb much faster. Also the temperature can bounce around by 5 degrees (or much more) instantly. It should never move 5 degrees in less than 5 seconds except when it's first heating up. If it's the heater then it's like it doesn't have enough power. It may aiming for say 200C but you can see it's reporting 195C or cooler. Eventually it gives up. If you really measured 0 volts at the heater terminals... Well if that happened when the temperature was at or above the goal temperature then that could be normal. But if the temperature was say 198C and the goal temperature was 200C then that's an indication that the circuit board under the printer is faulty. Underneath the printer you can see 2 red led's that blink. One is for the bed power and one for the nozzle. When the bed and nozzle are at goal temp those lights typically blink up to about 20 times per second which is easy enough to see. If the light is off continuously and the temp is well below the goal temperature then it's definitely something wrong with firmware or PCB. The Z issue also sounds like a circuit board issue. If this is tinkermarlin I would certainly try printing in non-geek mode. Such that it's not displaying 15 different things at once.

PLA is the easiest material to print and it's strong. PETG is slightly harder. ABS, nylon, most other materials are even harder. This is because of the temperature they need to be when you bond one layer down onto the layer below. You can either enclose your printer to get the air up to 35-40C or you can lower the fan speed to the minimum where it still turns. This is a different value for every printer. Or both. If you turn the fan off you will get great layer bonding but overhangs and bridging won't be so good - the part will look kind of melty. So you want just a little fan.

Did you look at this in layer view? Always check in layer view before you print it. If it's missing in layer view then it will be missing on the print. Guaranteed. Also look at the part in xray view. If you see any red in this area then that's almost certainly the problem. Post screenshots of the problem in layer view and normal view and xray view please and you should get lots of suggestions.

It's a longish video, sorry, but I spent a ton of time creating it and it's packed full of "how" and also "why". I think it's worth watching and if you do everything recommended you will never have a print come loose. In the video I pick up the whole printer by a print smaller than your benchy as the print sticks so well.

We see this a lot. A LOT! It's a hardware problem. Sorry. I know different slicers pick different speeds (if you give cura one speed it will actually print with several different speeds under the hood). Cura might just slice it slightly different such that a corner is taken a little faster and sharper than a different slicer. So it can fail with one slicer and work fine with the other. Or maybe your other slicers are specifying acceleration (cura shouldn't do that) and they are lowering your acceleration for you. But the top acceleration should be set in the printer firmware. Not the slicer. No usually this means a pulley slipped. Tighten the hell out of all set screws that hold the pulleys to the shafts. The one most likely to slip is usually the one on the stepper itself as that one experiences the most torque. Concentrate on the slipping axis (Y axis for you). Another fix is to lower the jerk and acceleration settings in your firmware. But ideally you should fix the hardware.

Alternatively you could try to find a different computer. That when you connect the USB cable the COM Port shows up on a low number like COM4 or COM7 and not COM15.

Well Cura has a bug I think where it only does so many com ports - like from 1 to 20 or maybe the comm port has to be 1 through 10 and I don't think there is a way to specify the com port. HOWEVER, You can update the firmware through octoprint! Here is an explanation. It's a bit complicated but really not too bad:

You will get zero improvement in sound by changing the stepper. You need to change the stepper driver. Google "pololu" and try to find one that is pin compatible with the UMO green board. If you have the UMO+ white circuit board then the next option might be to get a chinese knockoff as those have the stepper drivers removable for both UMO style and UMO+ style.

Find out the folder where Cura stores your profiles and other settings. I think it's something like c:\user\everton\AppData\Roaming\cura\3.6\ Exit cura if running, delete that folder, and restart cura. That will act like you just did a fresh install of cura. Cura will rebuild those folders. To be extra safe delete the folder above also (\cura\) as I think sometimes cura will grab settings from older versions and try to copy them to the new folder. Alternatively rename this folder from cura to cura_old in case you want to undo and recover settings from an old cura. I have always had trouble with creating and storing profiles in cura so I don't. I have had MUCH more luck with an alternate method that is just as convenient. I always do "file" "save" and save the project in a 3mf file. The 3mf file stores your model and all settings. Say I printed a door hinge. Later if I want to print something else and I think "I want the same profile as that door hinge I did last week" then I can load the 3mf file, delete the model from the print bed and add in the new STL file. It's no easier or harder than creating profiles in theory and in practice it just seems to work much better. I think the person who wrote that code did a better job maybe than the person who wrote the code that loads and saves profiles.

Hmm. Looks kind of like a bug. If you had "support horizontal expansion" at the default of 3 still then it would make sense that it's connecting those upper 2 support areas down to the bed. But it looks like maybe you set that to 0. Maybe you didn't go far enough. Maybe you need to set it to negative slightly to fix this issue? Try -0.1 so that there is definitely no vertical path from the upper supports down to the bed. Or maybe I can't see that on the backside those two tabs with holes are not exactly perfectly above each other and you need to set horizontal expansion greater than the misalignment. In this specific case you can just block all support as you don't really need it for those circle holes. it will be a little bit ugly but mostly functional with possibly a little filing (or you can drill it out after). I don't know if this helps with your other 8 cases.

So this is a "post processing" plugin which means it looks at the same gcode file you can see with any text editor. In a cura output are comments that you can read. Here is a sample at the start of the second layer. Lines that start with semicolon look at first. Go ahead, do that now. Notice that it says "layer:1" but this is the second layer. Much higher up it says "layer:0". Notice the 3rd line from the bottom ends with "Z0.47". 0.47 is first layer (.27) plus second layer thickness (.2) which are defaults. If you search only for the letter Z in a gcode file you will quickly find just the layer changes (unless zhop is turned on). So the plugin is much dumber than a person - it looks for key words below: "layer" or "z" and extracts the number after that. I believe it will insert commands after the line with the Z in it. So answers: 1) start 2) 0 3) Yes - note that it will be greater than or equal to the threshold you set If ZHOP is turned on it *might* fool the plugin. Or the plugin hopefully is smart enough to search only for the first Z after a LAYER comment. It's confusing! I know! Sorry! I didn't write it. But gcode is really simple once you play with it a few times and the author of the plugin kind of assumes you know a little gcode I guess? I don't know. Bad excuse. Anyway the author kept the code as simple as possible so they just fine "layer" or "Z" look at the number and then insert the desired gcode. the M106 is fan, M140 is bed temp. F is speed in mm/minute. G0 and G1 are both move commands. E is extruder position. G1 F1200 X109.105 Y115.638 E48.83473 G0 F7500 X125.44 Y116.44 G0 X125.675 Y116.675 ;TIME_ELAPSED:91.942808 ;LAYER:1 M140 S60 M106 S85 G0 F11250 X125.675 Y116.675 Z0.47 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER G1 F1560 X107.325 Y116.675 E49.15114 G1 X107.325 Y98.325 E49.46755

The title for this topic seems wrong - it probably will push away people from this topic who would be interested in this. I can edit the topic if you tell me what to change it to.

Oh. Okay. Those pins are smaller than what I first thought you meant. Well the amount of force it takes to bend that pin (break it the easy way as opposed to compressing or stretching) goes up by the fourth power of the diameter (assuming the length stays the same). So if you can double the diameter it will be 16X stronger. But if you only make it 10% thicker it will be 46% stronger (I'm 80% sure it's 4th power - I'm about to go to bed so my brain could be remembering it wrong - maybe it's cube but I'm pretty sure it's 4th power). The infill won't make much difference. Is it possible to design the pins a little thicker? Even at this size they look quite strong. Maybe there was a pretty strong force that broke those? Maybe once the pcb is in there they will be strong? A 3rd option would be to replace those pins with steel pins and put holes in there instead. Maybe screws could go through the pcb into the holes.

Probably there is a way to do it but this is not related to Ultimaker. However be aware that cura is a great slicer but really not very impressive at sending gcode files to a printer. For that I strongly recommend you use other software such as repetier or pronterface.

Well the answer is to turn off combing mode off. This should enable retractions even "inside" the part. First note that your cad model specifies that the space between the box and hole should be solid. So you might want to change the cad model instead. So the reason you get this string on each layer is because cura doesn't retract. It's trying to save time since normally people don't mind if there is a little stringing inside their part where no one can see anyway. When retractions are turned off the nozzle keeps extruding. There are 2 kinds of "non printing" moves: retraction and non-retracting. They are different shades of blue in the layer view. Make sure you see the moves change color in layer view to be sure that disabling combing will do what you want. No need to actually waste another print if I'm wrong about combing.

Breaks off easily? That's not good. I'm guessing this is not PLA. I've never met someone with fingers strong enough that could break those support blocks off easily. It would take about 30 pounds (15 kg) of force. I mean if you had a screwdriver you could pry them off but not finger strength only. I'm guessing these are printed in ABS and that you don't have good layer adhesion. The solution is to enclose your printer and get the air up to 35C and also to lower the fan speed to the lowest it will go to but still blow - about 50% rpm of normal. On an ultimaker 2 that would be 30% fan. On an S5 that would be 5% fan. Every printer is different.

Yes. Known bug. This exact issue has been reported to Ultimaker but I'm not sure if it's on their list of things to fix. Hopefully/probably it is. @nallath

Well if this happened on a UM2 with the original black feeder I would say this is a common problem. Feel the filament going through the feeder when you print the bottom layer. If it jumps suddenly backwards that will tell you a lot - it will tell you that there is no problem with the software but the stepper motor can't push hard enough. You could then test the feeder strength. A UMO, UM2, UM2+, UM3, and S5 can all do 5kg of pushing/pulling on the filament. So you could see how much force it takes to pull the filament out of the feeder. The newer printers above can do more like 7kg of pushing/pulling the filament.

Yes, print the letters first. You can tell the print order in layer view by sliding the horizontal slider. I'm not sure what options set the print order. I think it's the order you load the 2 stl files. Load the lettering stl file first and the rest of the print second. See if that helps. Or assign the lettering to extruder1. See if that helps.

There are many reasons not to print directly through USB. If your operating system decides to shut down or go into sleep mode or update itself or update one of 100 products then your print is ruined. Or you might want to play a video game but be afraid that it might use up too much cpu, slow down cura, and ruin your print. Or you might crash the computer. So now you have a computer that's dedicated to printing. And what if you have 5 active printers like myself? USB is less reliable. Amazingly bad gcodes end up making it to the arduino. I blame the arduino usb hardware because for other devices, usb is very reliable. But for 3d printing not so much. SD card is so easy. It does not take 5 minutes to insert and remove a USB card twice. It takes maybe 6 seconds. The best way to "print through usb" is to spend the $35 and get a rasberry pi and install octoprint. Now you can print through the network.

Here are the instructions. How to reprogram your core: http://gr5.org/cores/

The only way that will happen is if Ultimaker sells an official extruder upgrade for the UM3. Maybe a UM3+ will come out some day and maybe there will be an upgrade kit.

You seem to understand perfectly. If you want to save $95 you can just buy one DDG for the left core and you can hack it by changing the flow rate to compensate for the difference between the left and right steps/mm settings. But spending the $95 is worth it. Another problem is cura. It doesn't have any profiles for the UM3 and the CC 0.6. So you have to either copy the S5 profile or create your own or use an AA 0.4 profile and set the line width to 0.6mm. But then it will complain all the time that the core is a CC 0.6 and your profile intended to use an AA 0.4. So you can reprogram the core to be an AA 0.4 if you want to go that route. Let me know if you need instructions.

Oh and did you put the feeder tension back to centered? That alone can cause this issue (grinding filament flat).