gr5

Try doing "arp -a" while that is connected like that. I'm not sure but possibly it will show mac address. arp -a should work in windows dos, mac command line, or linux command line. I'm not certain but I think arp -a will show the printer's mac address even if your computer is at say 192.168.1.10 and the printer is at 10.0.0.5. In other words if they aren't on the same subnet but are on the same ethernet (same crossover cable). I could be wrong.

nice

@jffry7 - PM me with your email if you want source code zipped up. unbricking instructions below - I recommend you buy an unbricking cable at my website if you are in USA: thegr5store.com just in case. It gives you console access through serial port. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/51752-recovering-a-bricked-um3

Does it happen in the exact same place if you print the exact same part twice? This is important to diagnose. Well if it happens at the same spot every time for the exact same print (same gcode file) then you can blame the slicer. I've seen this on some of my prints. One thing that I found helps is to drop the speed in half and also to make sure ALL the printing speeds are the same (infill, inner/outer shell, etc). If it happens in different spots for the same exact part with no changes in slicing then it's a hardware issue.

I believe so, yes. But I think you want to edit um3.json. Not um3.json.log. The file is here: /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/ But be careful - if you accidentally delete a quote or comma or add a quote or comma you will sort-of brick the machine. It's a lot of work to unbrick it the first time. Requiring uncovering the linux cpu pcb and connecting either terminal cables to it or connecting a micro SD card to it.

For small parts a clean bed works well. But for something that goes the length of the bed and heavy on the infill (or just skinny) and with sharp corners, parts are likely to pull off the bed. For example if you printed a ninja throwing star with no brim that just barely fit in the build area (partly because of the sharp points). Or if you printed a cuboid (a box) that is long and skinny like a pencil. Also some parts barely touch the bed and get quite larger as you move up off the bed. Something like this that runs the width of the bed will need brim and glue and heat and squish. Imagine a typical pencil -- which is hex shaped in cross section as most pencils are. Imagine one of the 6 sides is resting on the bed but obviously it gets larger as you go up in Z. With very strong forces on those upper layers pulling inward. Especially if the pencil is as long as the print bed (say 220mm long).

If you set initial layer height to 0.3mm it extrudes 3X as much filament on the first layer versus if you set the initial layer height to 0.1mm. That's not what you asked but I think it answers your question. Also it will set the Z=0.3mm if you set initial layer height to 0.3mm. There is an "initial layer flow" feature which you can set to 200% for the first layer if you want. And then you can also set "initial layer horizontal expansion" to about -0.25mm (for a 0.4mm nozzle). If you play with all these enough you can have it all. By the way, yes, squishing harder on the first layer greatly increases adhesion to the bed. I have a video about this:

90% of the time this is a loose pulley. First figure out if it slipped in X or Y. Then tighten all 6 pulleys (SIX - not four). on that axis. The most likely problem pulley is the one on the stepper. You should be able to get it with a long handled hex driver (it's okay to push the print head around to get access to the set screw). Tighten the hell out of those pulleys. If you are using an L shaped allen wrench with the short arm for torque it should hurt your fingers a lot after. A lot. Tighten it so much you are scared. The steel shaft should be twisting slightly. If you don't believe me you can mark the shaft and pulley with a sharpie such that after a layer shift you can see if you are right or I am right. Sometimes the problem is high friction or overheating stepper driver (is it above 20C in the room with the printer?) but overheating stepper driver problems usually occur after an hour of printing - not just at the start. Push the head around with your fingers to feel the friction. If one axis seems worse then oil it. Oil them anyway. Just a tiny bit of oil. Too much oil is bad. One drop on each of the 6 steel rods in the gantry. Any light oil is fine. Don't use WD40.

Most likely there is a line in the gcode doing this. An M117: https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M117:_Display_Message Search the gcode for any M117 and remove it.

What does "0.5 modulus" mean? I am familiar with that term as a measure of flexibility of materials. It's usually in pascals or psi. This is very small so I'd print it with a 0.25mm nozzle. PLA is probably the best material for this. Nylon is tougher but it's also more flexible so if there was much torque on this gear the teeth would probably flex right out of position. But you could try nylon. ABS is great because it withstands higher temperature and friction can raise the temperature fast. So ABS might be better than PLA only for the temp reasons. PLA turns to a clay-like softness around 52C. PEEK, Ultem, carbon fill nylon - those materials would be better. I'd look at the tensile strength and tensile modulus compared to PLA and find something quite strong and stiff (highest possible values) such as nylforce CF. PEEK and Ultem need a special printer - UM printers can't print those as you need 160C bed and 80C air temps (will destroy stepper motors).

I'm pretty sure the clone um2 pcb's have socketed stepper drivers. That's why I mentioned that earlier.

Unless you are amazing with removing surface mount parts and have all the fancy equipment that can heat just one smt chip enough to melt the solder and remove it and are willing to solder dozens of tiny wires to tiny pins then you can't do it. Much easier to buy a smoothie board and replace the whole controller. I think I saw some chinese umo+ PCBs that have removable steppers (socketed steppers) such that you can put in any stepper you want. These are UM clones. If you go that route buy 2 because I hear the quality control isn't great. But the price is impressive.

That's caused by a loose wire. power, measured in watts is I*I*R where R is the resistance and I is the current. Normally the resistance of the heater is about 4 ohms (roughly) and the voltage is 24V and so the current through the heater is about 6 amps. In the wire to the heater the resistance is probably less than 0.1 ohm but even if it was that high you would get 36*.1 or 3.6 watts distributed through the whole wire. Not a big deal. But if you get even 1 ohm of resistance at that connector that's 36 watts going into that tiny spot and it gets quite hot. Even though it looks like crap it probably still works fine. Ideally you want to remove all corosion off of all metal parts that touch the wire. So if you have a tiny file you could slide it in and out of the hole where the wiring goes in to clean it out a bit and reinsert the wires. This time clamp it down TIGHT.

Nice.

That feature is already part of cura. But keep in mind that if you are printing somethign with vertical walls like a cylinder or a cube it works great. But if you are printing something with any sloping surfaces (not vertical and not horizontal) then the infill will match one of the shells but not the other.

Sorry! We need more moderators in my opinion.

It looks like printrun moved here: http://www.pronterface.com/ Correction - no it's still at the old link. I can see it fine. This version is pretty new from 2017 - I think it's the most recent: http://kliment.kapsi.fi/printrun/ I believe it has a windows command line interface if you want to script something.

windows supports web browsers. Do you mean that raspberry pi's are an illegal device to be in your company maybe? But that seems unlikely since cell phones, paper printers, 3d printers and many other's run on non-windows. I'm guessing you misunderstood. You guy a raspberry pi. It's about 25 euros. You install octoprint on it. Now you can print using a web page. But maybe that's not what you want.

In USA I recommend fbrc8.com. They build the actual printers and unlike other parts, the couplers are reasonably priced because they are conisdered to be a consumable.

The outside of the vertex is covered with large nuts. Aren't those lock nuts? I'm just guessing from the photo.

Did you get it at 3dverkstaan? If so, if you need tech support, make sure to get Robert! aka @IRobertI He's the best.

That vertex is an Ultimaker Original clone. Some of the parts on that will work with the UM2+ so maybe hang on to it for parts? The screws (maybe not the screws) and the bowden tube, bowden holders, steppers, gantry (rods/belts/bearings). Hmm - maybe that's it. Those are big lock nuts! I hope you enjoy the UM2+. Come back to this forum when you have issues/questions. ?

reprap volumetric I believe is identical to marlin volumetric. With "volumetric" the extruder values are in mm^3 but with normal mode the extruder values are in mm (linear). In normal mode, cura needs to know your filament diameter. In volumetric mode the printer needs to know your filament diameter. volumetric is something that Ultimaker invented so I'm quite surprised that the Duet would support such a thing. The way Marlin (the printer firmware) detects whether a gcode file is in volumetric mode versus regular mode is it looks at the comments at the top of the gcode file and somewhere in there (no idea where) is a hint of some sort that Marlin looks for to decide. I'm not sure of any good reason to use volumetric unless you swap between 1.75mm and 2.85mm filaments often and want to print the same part in both, one after the other and don't want to create 2 gcode files. Does anyone ever do this? I think not.

Regarding the fan - I'm not sure - your idea about changing nozzles is interesting. Look at the fan settings carefully in cura - typically the fan is off for the bottom layer and then turns on a little more each layer until around layer 6. Search cura for "regular fan speed at layer". Just type "fan" in the search box above the settings. So by default it will do 0%, 16%, 33%, etc until 100% on 6th layer. This I assume overrides what you program in TUNE menu. I don't know but it does sound like a mild bug. Really if you know you want 50% fan you should put that in Cura somewhere. I suspect cura allows a different fan speed for each core but I never paid attention to that.

The light thing is a coincidence I'm sure. You can disable the filament sensor if you want. It's in the menus on the touch screen. Mine has been on and it has helped me more than caused problems so my sensor is enabled. You can even disable the sensor part way through a print.