gr5

If your PVA is wet you can tell because it kind of sizzles and pops and you can see steam coming out of the nozzle. And condensed water nearby sometimes. And the pva comes out snowy white due to all the bubbles inside. If the PVA isn't sticking on top of PLA - well that's normal. Maybe try increasing horizontal expansion for support. If the PLA isn't sticking on top of PVA then you are probably underextruding or your two nozzles aren't perfectly level with each other when printing. It should stick just fine. If you dry it on the bed be careful not to exceed the softening temp (I think it's 82C but I could be waaay off) so put a sample piece of PVA on the plate at 45C for 20 minutes under a towel and then try to bend it and make sure it acts no different mechanically than room temperature PVA. Again - I think it's around 82C that you'll start to notice it softening so 45C is quite safe but may take many days to dry whereas at 70C it would likely dry much faster (maybe only 5 hours at 70C). I have no experience drying PVA but I've dried Nylon and it takes many hours at 100C. I think at 45C it would probably take many days. Make sure to put a towel over your spool of filament as it stays hot on the bed to warm up the whole spool. Never leave nylon or pva out when you aren't printing. Bag them up when done printing preferably with a dessicant.

By the way you can always just take the whole head apart. But you should talk with your reseller before doing that to avoid voiding warranty.

Well there are 4 things that can hold the core in from most common issue to least common issue: 1) Filament at the top 2) Not squeezing enough - you need to lift that steel part up and above the anodized aluminum part inside the head 3) The clear part has two holes in it that catch on two wedges in the head. You might have to push down a bit on the clear part. Without squeezing the "trigger" you can explore this by pushing the clear part into the head and listening for a snap. push down and pull out on the clear part such that it moves out and repeat until you know how much to push down on the clear part to get it past those two wedge/bumps. 4) The pcb on the core can slide down too much and get behind the rear of the anodized aluminum part in the head that holds the cores in place. The best solution to this issue is to remove the swinging door cover of the head (takes 3 seconds - squeeze it off the hinge) so you can get your fingers under the core better. Then push up on the rear of the core while trying to slide it out the normal way. There may be a fifth issue that I don't know of and have not experienced.

In the photo I can see some orange pla sticking into the core. That material must be pulled out far enough so the core can slide out. It's easy to do - just squeeze the lever on the feeder and pull down on the filament just below the feeder.

In advanced or expert settings (I forget which )there are 4 settings in the "fix horrible" category. Uncheck all of those just in case. Also in cura xray view if you see anything that is red then that's most likely the problem. But I doubt there are any of those types of errors in your model as fusion 360 is pretty good about making manifold STL files. Instead I think that the trim around the door is touching the house but is a separate object and cura thinks it's too small to print and doesn't realize they are supposed to be connected. You want no surfaces between the trim and the house. I could be wrong about this. It could be a bad model. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create an account though): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

Sorry - had an emergency. I'm back. Anyway, if the belts are too tight you can get heavy friction. More likely if the end caps that hold the 4 rods in the sides of the printer are too tight that can cause too much friction (hence backlash). You should be able to push the head around with just one finger on each opposite block. Watch this video to know the correct tension for the belts (precisely with a guitar tuner app on your phone) and also maybe get an idea of how easy it should be to push the head around:

It's almost certainly "play" or backlash (read about it on wikipedia if you aren't familar). It happens because it is for example coming at a wall from a different direction or switching from clockwise to counter clockwise. Play is most commonly caused by loose belts - the short belt on the motor is the most important and easiest to tighten but the long belts are important too. I know you think you tightened everything. Play can also be caused by high friction. If the friction is too high then when it is for example moving the head to the right and the steppers stop moving, the belt is stil trying to pull the head but friction is keeping it from moving. Play can be caused by loose parts INSIDE the print head. Try pushing on the nozzle in 4 directions

This is just typical overhang issues. This is a pretty steep overhang and overhangs are difficult to print. Combine that with being very close to the heated bed and you aren't getting enough cooling. Solutions: 1) You could print on blue painters tape instead and let the bed stay cold. If you do make sure you wash the tape with isopropyl alcohol and relevel (or just tighten the 3 screws about 1 full turn). 2) Crank up the fan - make sure the fan is 100% on the very second layer! Maybe even 100% on the first layer. Also lower the bed temp to 50C (part may come off the bed if it's too long though so be wary - you might want to add an incredibly thin layer of pva glue - such as glue stick spread around with a wet tissue until it's invisible and also maybe raise the bed temp back to 60C when it's done with this difficult spot - having the part come loose 1cm up is a disaster and can destroy your print head due to flooding of filament in the print head). 3) Change the design? Can you make the chamfer at 45 degrees and then go into a curve? Instead of starting with a curve immediately? Like in this design document: https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing#chamfers

Look at your model in xray view to see if there are any red spots - that would explain the problem - it might be that the vase has a double bottom (extra inner layers). For example when you merge two parts together and cad doesn't merge them properly and they are still 2 separate objects. In vase/cup mode cura tries to water proof the cup by adding a really good connection between the seam where the wall of the cup meets the bottom of the cup. Cura may be confused about where the bottom of the vase ends.

Are you using sketchup for cad? What you describe are common issues with sketchup. They are fixable - follow this link below. Or you can fix them with an STL repair program. https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

@foehnsturm - regarding that filament sensor you were talking about - is that the one on the S5?

Again, what would be the criteria to make that decision? And, would that decision be global or selectable. i.e. Corner vs. large curve, etc. ? Infill would be a good place to pause. Ideally in the "middle" of infill but most infill lines touch shell. But better to be touching the inner shell than the outer shell during a pause. Or anywhere on a tower. Cura can and does add comments to the gcode. There could be a very simple comment indicating good pause points. So if a users walks up to the printer and tells it to pause it would pause at one of those pause points. Not sure how useful this is. I like Bob's other idea better - a cura plugin that when you use up X meters of filament it pauses and waits for you to change to a new spool of filament (for jobs that need more than one spool).

Auch wenn Sie ein USB-Kabel anschließen und das Pronterface verwenden, können Sie die Endschalter auf diese Weise überprüfen. Aber wenn sich die Y-Achse nicht bewegt, hat das nichts mit Endschaltern zu tun.

Welche Achse bewegt sich nicht? Y-Achse? Entfernen Sie die Abdeckung (2 Schrauben) und schauen Sie vorsichtig hin - könnte es sich drehen, aber die Riemenscheibe ist locker? Selbst wenn der Endanschlag gebrochen ist, sollte sich die Achse während des Referenzierens ungefähr 2 Sekunden bewegen. Entschuldigung für Google Übersetzer.

My guess is you used sketchup. This happens a lot with sketchup models. If you are using sketchup: Look at your model - especially inside that hole in the center. Look for *any* walls that are gray instead of white. Make them all white by right clicking and select "reverse faces". Anything that shows as gray will confuse cura into thinking that's the "solid" side of a wall. Most other CAD software doesn't have this issue - just sketchup.

Very nice! You are truly a maker and an artist. What are those words? I can't read it. "Sater Salls"?

There was a basic misunderstanding of the word "shell". We think of parts as 3 dimensional but the slicer mostly thinks of just slices where "shell" is the pass or passes that separate inside from outside HORIZONTALLY. What you point out I don't call "shell" but I consider to be a "top layer". I think Cura terminology is the same. Anyway I'm glad you figured it out - this is useful for the future if someone else has the same problem.

Dual nozzle in the same head doesn't work so well unless the idle nozzle can be moved up. I strongly suggest you read about the mark2 which works for UMO or UM2.

I think the next layer up probably had shell around the 6 & 4.

@tomnagelOops. I had posted radius. Fixed. I will update empty weight when I have an empty spool.

@tinkergnome

I think that behavior is mostly expected. I don't understand why the missing surface doesn't match the 6 and the 4 more perfectly but the "top layer skin" shouldn't appear and those spots where the 6&4 are because - well - that's not a top surface.

I print with .4 at same temp but .8 10C cooler. It depends on nozzle size and also printing speed (volume of filament going through the nozzle).

FYI - I sell 3dsolex hardcores at thegr5store.com. I think the 0.6mm sapphire (everlast) is the best core for CF. It can print 10 spools of CF with no wear inside or out. I think 0.6 is a good compromise such that it is less likely to clog but still pretty good resolution.