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ABS is very hard to print compared to PLA. I strongly recommend you print with PLA. Although it's possible. ABS was popular when it was the only choice. Now there are about 50 materials that are easier to print and have better properties. LIke PLA, nGen, PET. The first really obvious problem is that the filament isn't always sticking to the blue tape. The center circle is a perfect example. That's most likely because your nozzle is too far from the blue tape. You need to squish that first layer more to get it to stick. Also, many new people don't know that you have to wash the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol to get the wax off. It's very easy - just put some on a paper tissue and wipe. It only takes a few seconds. I'm not sure what you mean about going to the edge of the build plate. This sounds like you have errors in the gcodes. Does it happen at the initial nozzle purge only or throughout the print? If throughout the print then you have communication issues getting the gcodes into the Arduino without them getting corrupted. Typically a single digit of an X or Y or E position gets converted to a random character and so the head makes these long movements to the edge of the bed. Fixes include things like getting rid of electromagnetic noise from getting into wires, printing from SD card instead of USB, using a better USB cable, using a USB splitter/amplifier, using a different computer.

1) You have a um2go, right? (please answer) 2) So you are just talking about the first few seconds I think when it is priming the nozzle, right? Then it moves to the center of the glass and tries to print? If it isn't printing in the middle then the nozzle is probably not close enough to the glass. 3) Did you put blue tape on the glass? Did you wash the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol? This is critical - you can get rubbing alcohol next to where they sell bandages in any drug store or supermarket. Just put a little on a tissue and wipe. This removes the wax layer from the tape which prevents the tape from sticking to itself and prevents prints from sticking to the tape. The initial nozzle purge (aka nozzle priming) doesn't have to go off the left edge but I prefer it by far! It's one of the great things about the um2go.

The PID settings for the nozzle are tuned for around 180C to 240C. So you might find the temperature is oscillating by 5C or more. If so I can help you fix that. Hopefully, you won't have to do anything as the PID system is pretty robust.

Bed leveling should only affect the bottom layer or sometimes the next layer up. But maybe you are getting this squirt-outs on every layer. If so then I think your Z axis might not be moving as far as it should. You could print a cube 10mm tall and then measure it afterward. If it is 5mm tall then I know what the problem is. Easy to fix.

I don't see what you mean in the picture. I can see your bottom layer is so thin it's almost transparent. I mostly like that - it means your part will stick very well to the glass and not come loose during your print. Bed leveling controls how thick the bottom layer comes out. but by the time you get to the second or third layer, it shouldn't matter. Did some filament squirt out on the right side maybe when it was doing the bottom layer or two? I can't tell as it's too blurry plus it would be easier to tell when still printing the first or second layer. Here's my guess but it's really hard to tell from the photo. My guess is you were printing too close to the glass and the pressure kept building up until eventually it all squirts out at once - not sure why it happens on the right side. Mostly chance. I'm thinking maybe you are a little too close to the bed. When it's printing the bottom layer I recommend you tighten the 3 bed leveling screws in equal amounts to lower the bed a bit away from the nozzle. Turn each knob an equal amount. do a half rotation at a time until that brim starts to get a bit thicker. You can also just push down on the bed and if it starts spurting out like crazy then you are printing a little too close to the glass. The below video start at 1:12 (1 minute 12 seconds) where I show what good brim or skirt should look like. Then look at 3:20 to see me adjusting the screws while it's printing the skirt. The first time you adjust while printing is hard not to panic and get confused. Just relax and think which way you want to move the bed, then think if you need to tighten (move it down) or loosen. Then turn the 3 screws equally. If you screw it up you can just start the print over.

I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like. Is it supposed to be a lopsided octagon with perfectly vertical walls? Or is it supposed to shift a bit part way up? Does it have that shift in cura layer view? So guessing that it's supposed to not have the shift - it's a common problem (I mean not for most printers but people have this problem occasionally) where you lose some steps such that the printer loses it's home and thinks it's somewhere a bit off from where it truly is. Usually the shift is only in X or only Y and only in one direction although often there are 2 shifts. Could this be what I see? Or is it supposed to shift like that? And if it isn't supposed to shift would you say it slipped in X or Y?

Sketchup allows you to draw an infinitely thin wall. It's great for architecture where people don't care if a wall is infinitely thin or not. And you can map visual textures onto planes and make nice renderings really fast. Normal CAD for "real" things - to build real things - only creates solids. It's very hard in DSM to create something that isn't solid. Everything has a continuous surface that clearly defines what is inside and outside the part. For example, if you designed a cube in sketchup and forgot to put a bottom to it, you might not notice in sketchup but that cube only has 5 sides - no bottom. It's infinitely thin. In most CAD you can't do that - you might start with a rectangle in just two dimensions (so it does let you do it briefly) and then you immediately extrude that rectangle into a 3rd dimension and now you have a nice solid part. If you click on a side and try to delete it - you can't. Because that would make it not-a-solid. The interface in DSM just makes it hard to create impossible things that can't be built in real life. If you follow that link I posted about sketchup - it's really well written - simple to read - with nice pictures explaining everything. And it has links to great sketchup tools to test that your model is manifold. If you have been using sketchup for a year or so you probably don't want the pain of learning a new CAD and you might consider sticking with sketchup but learning a few extra tools and techniques. Here is a very simple guide to find the best possible cad software. I didn't create this but I think it's the best guide out there: https://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448

Do you mean PVA? You are confusing me. PLA doesn't absorb moisture. You can probably even store it underwater if you want (don't quote me on that - never tried it). If the PLA nozzle is "clogging" I have completely different advice.

This probably needs a response from a UM3 developer. I'm not sure who they are but these guys know: @Daid @nallath

That didn't work for me. I have ubuntu. I keep a windows machine around and its primary purpose is DSM.

@impeham arrrg. Did you even read my post? Sorry - sometimes I know exactly what the problem is - I explain the answer very simply - and feel I'm ignored. If you want your box to be filled in when cura runs - do exactly what you did. Make the inner walls gray. Exactly like your picture. To fix it, right click on ALL visible gray walls and select reverse sides. I'm talking about doing this in sketchup, not cura. Also, although I recommend learning DSM eventually, if you are a pro in sketchup, then the guide I linked to above will be very helpful.

Assuming you use PLA, the less glue the better and squish the bottom layer very well. More details in this video. It's a long video but packed with all kinds of information about what to do and where you can actually watch it happening so you know better than with words:

Could you show a photo? is this PLA? Are the raised portions that the nozzle hits at the edge of overhangs? If all this is true then try to increase fan if possible, decrease nozzle temp by 5 to 10C and slow things down. I can explain why if it's PLA and happening on overhangs.d

If the PVA is too humid then it's obvious because it sizzles and crackles as it prints. Because it's boiling. I'm not sure why your PVA is clogging. Is this recent? I'd consider cleaning it using the cold pull procedure which is in the menu system on the printer.

No ideas.

Are you trying to *orbit* around the model so you can see it (use right control click) or rotate it's position in the printer? You for the second thing, you have to click on the part, then click on the 3rd from the bottom icon on the upper left side of the screen. Then hover the mouse over a circle and it should get "brighter". You have to have your mouse right over it. Then click and drag along the circle.

The hair will look very different. Some will be thin. Some will be thick. It may look better or worse than the typical hairy lion but it will definitely look different! I would probably stick to .15 or .2 layers but I'm very curious to see what it would look like with variable layers. The top of the head should be fine with any layer height. You can always do a "comb over" if you don't like the top of his head being hairless.

Woah! I thought it was supposed to be around 900 or 1000? I've never had to mess with this though. You won't damage anything by having the current too high. The stepper automatically shuts off for a few milliseconds and you get what looks like a slipping pulley. Sorry - I've been telling you to tighten the pulleys and now it seems maybe your stepper drivers are getting too hot. You could alternatively remove the bottom cover and add a desk fan nearby and tilt the machine. But let me go look up what the current should be. Mine are set to 1200ma on both my UM2 and my um2go. I never touched them. I think UM recommends lower current in hotter climates - around 1000ma. If you lower it too much the high acceleration at the lower current will *also* caused missed steps. 1000 to 1200ma should be about right.

lol. I think he means everything should be color control. Lots of pretty lights. The 2 cores and the primary lights aren't enough for this guy.

See how the inside walls are gray? That's the problem. Right click on those and do "reverse faces". More info here: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

In blender you should zoom way out. way way way way way out. There's probably something way off to the side - about a million times farther away than the size of your part. That's my guess anyway.

Alternatively, turn the printer on and go to SYSTEM and go to where you set the bed temperature and leave the temperature at 0C but have one person watch the temperature while the other person pokes at these connections. The problem with this approach is that every time the temperature goes over 700C you will then probably have to reboot your printer and start over until you find the problem spot.

Do you have a multimeter? Disconnect this cable at the *other* end underneath the printer and measure the resistance there. It should be around 100 ohms. If it's failing it should be well over 1000 ohms. While one person holds the multimeter to the two wires, another person needs to push and poke at these connections. Push quite hard - maybe 1kg force. Hopefully, the resistance will jump from around 100 ohms to infinite. when that happens you found the problem area.

USB printing through a cable is not officially supported on UM2. UM3 can't do it at all. Printing from the USB flash is fine. That's the only way I print with the UM3. I think you mean 3cm or 4cm?

This is a known bug with cura 3.2.1. I could get into it but well 3 different things came together to make this bug happen. If you fix any of the 3 things the bug goes away. Cura 3.3 fixes two of the bugs. After installing cura 3.3 if you install the marlin firmware onto the printer that fixes the 3rd thing and you can go back to cura 3.2.1 if you want as fixing ANY of the 3 things fixes the bug.