ultiarjan

I do the same, but (very obvious...) just be aware of the dock in the corner, you need to remove it ofc if you want to use that buildspace...

Sorry, no Idea how to change UM3 firmware, but for now why not just load/unload manually. I only load manually as its much faster, on UM3 and S5. For the UM3 this will save your fingers; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

Do you have a picture of this 50mm misalignment ? Sounds to me like a hardware issue (loose pulley) and not an S3D issue. You may have the same issue as mike here;

He Mike, you probably have a loose pulley, it's fairly easy to fix with the screwdriver that's included with the printer. It's easiest if you have a pair of printed alignment tools, I just published a pair for the S5. Here's the instruction; https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles and here's the tools you can print for the S5; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/axis-alignment-tool-for-the-ultimaker-s5 If yours is really of a lot fix it first roughly without the tools (put the axis as straight as possible and tighten the polley) before you print the tools. Oh, and tighten the pulleys really hard....

You can just use the old UM2 feeder motor. Just adjust the steps correctly and you're fine. There have been different types on the UM2, some with a round axis and some with the Dshape axis. For the UM2+ feeder you need the Dshape, but if you have the round axis you can easily file it to a Dshape (to make the gear fit) . You may also have to cut the axis a bit shorter. It's been a while but I've done it for a self build machine and it worked fine. It's a bit more expensive ofc but I would prefer to get a bondtech feeder.... much less hassle... And if you really want to go low budget... this is ofc still an option; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two

About the "chip" being broken. I think @kmanstudios meant the tag on the spool not the machine. Did you try to read different spools?

Though I have no idea if you really have a firmware update issue, you may want to try installing the @tinkergnome firmware. At least you wil be sure if the update was succesfull. Look at the version number here; Advanced/preferences/version I prefer this firmware over the standard version as it gives a lot more information during printing. you can just download it and install using cura. https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Ok, I assume this it not the issue, but just to ask the obvious, you did plugin the NFC cable correctly and it sits deep enough? I had no network issues, plugged in my lan cable and the machine just got an ip address, im on a simple home network though, so noting complicated just a router. With regard to the initial setup, I remember Ultimaker assumes you'll set it up immediately with the delivered tough PLA and PVA. I remember I had other plans and was simply able to cancel out of the setup and select other material later (I started with some material with no tag, in that case you can just select the material in the menu ( click on the material, click on the 3 dot's in the right top corner, click select type) though I understand Ultimakers choise to have you load the material thats delivered in the box, I think specially for new users it would be wise to leave the PVA packed and start getting some experience with single material printing first. The PVA degrades (humidity) when not packed, so you better only open it when you start using it (or better, keep it in a dry box...)

Congrats @kmanstudios looking at your great prints I'm sure you'll burn through that filament volume in no time ? and @SandervG thanks, I had a lot of fun designing my entry. Do think the number of participants is a bit disappointing, but that may be expected during summertime.

I would indeed use a drybox for pva and nylon but Ive never used it for pla... Think that would be Overkill. As the containers are cheap I keep a few and just leave the spools in there also for storage.

this is very very sad news indeed, R.I.P, I really loved his creativity.

aha, i had not seen that, that's messed up. It's a known bug, you can follow progress here; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3625?_pjax=%23js-repo-pjax-container

just to be clear; uniform scaling marked : which ever of the 3 "handles" in cura you drag, the whole model scales evenly uniform scaling not-marked : each "handle" in cura will scale only that direction. this is the correct behavior, and it works normal for me in cura 3.4 I can not replicate any issue... can you still replicate? whats the cura version you use?

why this over-complicated approach if you can just print with a raft..... there's plenty settings to create just the raft you want ?

yep. you definitely found a bug. it's a funny one also, I just tried and every time you toggle the "brim only on outside" button you get a new time estimate. thanks, I reported it here; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/4009

You will mostly be better off selecting the AA0.4 as this will give you more profiles vs using a 0.8 as a starting point. When you made the changes to the priofile, like line width around 0,55 - 0,6 and other stuff you need, safe as a new profile, call it something with 0.6 in the name and next time you good to go.

I agree it's a pain, did you try "manage printers" and just refresh? easier than restarting cura.... but again I agree this should not be necessary....

Ok, here's some feedback. I did not llok at all models, but here's feedback on a few. Though I like the designs, the models are not set up very well if you intended to print them without support. For example, looking at the wheels, you intended to print it without support, on it's side, but the model does not lay flat, as the tank is wider than the base of the trailer. This trailer will have such small detail, such small islands to start on the glass-bed, that they will fail during printing. This bus does not have the wheels optimised for 3d printing, and probably the details of the windows are to small to print. here you have optimized the wheels for printing, but the front of the truck is not touching the buildplate, so it will not print without support

The shadows on the side is swown by cura as these area's can not be reached by the printer. If you print dual extrusion both nozzles need to be able to reach the area, therefore you loose a bit of space in dual vs single extrusion. I'm pretty curious about the air printing..... can you replicate it? can you show a video?

Here's my entry in the contest, as the Netherlands are big in Logistics I decided to design a set of material handling equipment (MHE) I made 7 vehicle types, each with a variety in loads to carry, making a total of 22 unique pieces. Looking from top to bottom; NAT ; narrow aisle truck (man up) FLT-2T ; 2 ton electro forklift RT ; 1.6 ton Reachtruck OPT: orderpicktruck with 3 rolcages Tow ; Towtruck FLT-4t-; 4Ton Gas powered forklift FLT_10T ; 10Ton diesel forklift Print the files as they are, laying flat, I printed them quickly in PLA, using a 0.4 nozzle and 0.15 layer. You can find all files here on YouMagine, including a step file so you can make any changes in most CAD software, if you make any new variants please share them back.... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/material-handling-equipment-scale-1-100-architect-design-contest-vehicles and to promote the contest a bit I also uploaded here; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975986

I agree you should try to solve the issue without PVA first. I've had much better results with PLA support and support roof, though only with 0.4 I believe the 0.8 profiles really needs some work still. If I look at the side of the last picture it looks a bit like underextrusion to me. Do you use default cura pla profiles and default temperature? what print speeds? some of the profiles have strange print speed variations, like super fast infill vs walls, I like to normalise speeds a bit more. If you want to use the 0.8 I think it's good do do a few similar test prints and vary the support roof settings to find the optimum.

I can confirm the VPN solutions works very well. In my home network I use a "fritzbox" router, that has a very easy to setup VPN option. Look in your router manual or google the router type you have. I run the VPN from my android phone to connect the Ultimaker app, Look at some webcams in my printroom (use motioneye on a Rpi for that) and control a powerplug (WeMo) to be able to kill a printer (never needed it but to be sure..)

looking at that picture it's the sub-assembly station for the frame, before it moves to the stations where the components get put into it right... and the QC guy does QC on the frame before it enters the production....

So each printer is build by a single operator, but "not really" as the assembly is done based on pre assembled parts (sub-assemblies) right? like the main panels and the head and maybe some other stuff?