ultiarjan

It's not so easy as in S3D (yet) but yes you can manipulate supports. You need to use a support mesh. also nice (infill mesh);

Are you refering to the setup with 2 magnetic heads? It's very old, and I would advice against it. the big advantage of the mark2 is that you keep an almost original UM2 when you use it in single extrusion mode. Techincally it's not very difficult, the moves for handling the pickup of the heads is just Gcode, so just different moves vs, the Mark2 positions.

During installation you can choose to add it to the Cura start menu folder, and it will end up with all the other versions you use.

Fantastic addition to the layer view !! was one of the main things missing vs S3D imo. Small remark, I think the PLAY button should be placed next to the video slider. IMO the translucent nozzle representation may be smaller, or even just a simple line, to block less of the model. Maybe increase the size of the dot's on the video line to easier "grab" them for manual sliding, maybe check on a high-res display... Also at first glance, probably just because I'm used the the S3D implementation I'm missing a play speed, and continues play for the whole model, but not sure if I'll really miss it..

It's the easiest if you have a router that supports setting up a VPN, you need to check the router manual for that. If your router does not support it (and you don't want to get a new one), you can use a raspberry pi instead, see here for a setup instruction; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39542-um3-remote-monitoring-raspberry-pi-vpn-tutorial Oh, and I'm no network expert, but as far as I understand a VPN is pretty safe when you set it up yourself. Using a 3th party VPN service like some you can download for your smartphone can be questionable when you're not sure about this 3th party...

It's an issue, it can cause color pollution on dual prints. Not a big issue, but still something to fix. And someone has asked before pretty sure I mentioned it a long time ago in some beta test report....

Please also note nylon deteriorates due to moisture absorption, so keep it dry, preferably also during printing. The issue varies a lot per brand, Ultmaker nylon prints pretty easy, some other brands are super moisture sensitive.

Strange.... Long time ago but I had no such problem and just an easy fit. Can you share a picture?

In my experience communication with re sellers is easier if you make it easy for them. Know what you want, look at the BOM on github, or look at the picture parts lists you can find here (middle of the page, links to all UM machines); http://www.mindkits.co.nz/bottom-plate.aspx And then send them a mail asking to prepare an order or send you a price, for these specific parts, include the Ultimaker partnumbers.

Never used it as I'm in Europe, but I used to heard good things about the NZ "diamondage" fillament. Seems they are now Imagin... may be worthwhile to try as you're in NZ. https://www.imaginplastics.co.nz/shop/3D+Printing+Filament/x_cat/00362.html

I prefer a piece of office paper over the calibration card, as I find it gives a better 'feeling' of resistance as it's not so slippery.

Misumi parts are good. The logical place for Ultimaker parts in Sweden should be; http://shop.3dverkstan.se/products/reservdelar I think I would also replace the plastic housings of the slider blocks, they are not getting better after disassembly, and are pretty cheap. For the rods, check if they are nice and straight, replace for sure when bend.

and have a look at this;

Although as a hobbyist a bug here and there doesn't hurt me, I think a split in stable and innovative releases makes a lot of sense. Even for the non business people it's nice to have a stable version for sort off critical work. Assuming one can run the latest versions next to the stable versions one would have the best of both worlds. I assume many people already try to achieve this currently by keeping older version in use, a "proven" stable version would be helpful. Ultimately it would be more interesting what ultimaker's business customers think about this...

don't know what the latest firmware is, as I use tinker firmware myself. If you can't update from cura 3.0.4 you can try to update from an older (15.xx) version of cura. You can install the 15.xx version next to the new cura versions. Just select "install custom firmware" and select the correct .hex file in the folder of your cura 3 installation. (C:\Program Files\Cura 2.7\resources\firmware) In general there's no real point to update the firmware on a Ultimaker2 with every cura update, as there are not much developments in it anymore (compared to the UM3, where you should update firmware....)

Ja, geen probleem als je olsson blocks gebruikt en de niet gebruikte nozzle verwijdert. Wanneer je beide nozzles laat zitten ga je wel problemen krijgen. Ik heb het lang geleden al gedaan (niet met 1.75 maar zelfde idee); https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17494-dual-olsson-block-for-easy-pla-abs-switching-on-ultimaker2 Met de nieuwe cura is het makkelijk, firmware is ook eenvoudig, gewoon de dual extrusion versie van de tinker firmware nemen. https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

just to be clear..... the polybox is just a box with desiccant bags, good for prevention, but does not do anything more than any plastic container. It can not be used to actually dry out filament that already absorbed to much moisture.

Indeed you can get a food dehydrator on amazon or wherever pretty cheap, you may need to adjust the plastic parts to make filament spools fitting. At a bit higher price there are also units on the market (basically the same machine) specifically for the purpose of drying filament, so a good choice if you have more money than time https://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/printdry-filament-dryer.html

Most of the complexity comes from the clever heating and cooling cura can do for dual extrusion. I agree there should be more levels of complexity / non-complexity in cura, and a simpler single extrusion profile for UM3.

keeping the pva ALWAYS in a closed box with moisture absorbent, also when printing, really helps. I uise a simple cheap box with a printed spool holder; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drybox-for-pva-ultimaker3 There are also commercial boxes available but they really don't do more than any plastic container;

for the Bill of materials and UM3 CAD model; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3 The CAD model (.stp file) can be helpful to see in detail how the head is assembled. This re-seller has all spare parts picture books on its website, links in the middle of the page; http://www.mindkits.co.nz/bearing-housing-middle.aspx You can order every part at ultimaker re-sellers, even though most don't have them on there webshop, just mail them. If you're not confident about taking stuff apart yourself have your re-seller do it for you, they have done it before.....

There was an official ultimaker upgrade kit, not sure if it's still available... ask your reseller. Here's the manual of the kit; https://ultimaker.com/download/251/Assembly%20Manual%20-%20Heated%20Bed%20upgrade%20kit%20v1.3.pdf

Nah, that would be way to logical it's just an inconsistency between part numbering and CAD it seems..

I have not checked other parts, but this ring is "1779" in the CAD file. Which is not very convenient for people wanting to get spare parts.... so getting these picture books (links in bottom of page) for ordering spare parts is advisable; http://www.mindkits.co.nz/front-fan-bracket.aspx

Have not tried this one (maybe @neotko did) but I really like the GreenTEC