ultiarjan

Actually @daid did this a long time ago. I agree it would be interesting to see once and a while.

yeah, indeed i did mean those..... links at the bottom of the page.

nah, dont think so, all the CAD files are open, so how would a list of pictures help a copycat more? just think it easy for customers who need to order spareparts, easier to communicate to there re-seller..

the BOM is pretty clear and usually enough, but for convenience why not just share the PDF picture books with parts? I mean the one's in use by the re-sellers.

I think some form of preference / setting / machine saving to the cloud (tied to an account) would be nice. Being able to "deploy" pre-fixed settings & machines to a group of computers is also a request we've had from universities & schools. As for moving everything to the cloud, i'm not a big fan. If there is no need to move something to the cloud, you shouldn't do it. Software should be usable offline (I have a bit of a pet peeve with always online software) not a fan of cloud based software but syncing profiles and settings via fe Dropbox would be great.

Great! thanks Ultimaker, helps a lot with making mods. Also, see there's a new silicon part.... when will this be released? edit: looking at it I seems it also needs a new metal bottom plate... right?

A long time issue on dual printing imho is the limited configurability of the prime tower. To have decent bed adhesion you need to make it fairly thick, and using brim is wise. the wishlist; - separate brim for model and tower - tower design with walls only, to avoid the vibrator. solution seems to be somewhere on a cura "top 50" is it still on? will it be any time soon?

I'll probably be available a little later than 4:30 so let me paste some questions already..... Although Cura is great, big thanks to all of you!!, the GUI has room for improvement imho. Due to some less desirable standard settings (f.e. strange speed defaults) I now feel the need to always have all settings visible, resulting in endless scrolling. I would really like the option to in stead of 1 configuration, have about 4 levels (visibility profiles, whatever you want to call it), so I can define for each function when it's visible. The idea is to have the main used stuff like speed, wall count, and infill always visible, and the more exotic stuff only on level 4.. What do you guys think would be the best solution?

Thanks!

Yeah. It may need a comment on how to use it. But IMHO it should be set back to "per model"

I'm pretty sure spiralize was in the "per model settings" before, I think at least in 2.5. And it should be imho as combining can be usefull. For example here I used it that way https://ultimaker.com/en/community/40389-combine-spiralize-and-normal-printing @nallath do you know if it's been taken out on purpose? or is it a mistake? edit : Diego, you can ofc install cura 2.5 on the side just for this

Fully agree. The current setup basically forces you to keep all options visible. Already around the first Cura2 beta period I suggested to somehow allow to link settings visibility to profiles. Another very simple option would be to just allow 3 or 4 levels of customized "settings views". I do think also Ultimaker agrees there's some room for improvement here ..... they have a few UX design vacancies atm.

First why would you have to replace everything if you did a good cleaning? can't imaging you broke all parts? the E3DV6 vs UM2+Olssonblock choice is a simple decision, the V6 is a huge downgrade imho. Changing nozzles on a V6 is super annoying vs the ease of an olssonblock. The E3DV6 can be very confusing, as there are multiple version around. The full metal 2,85 version is a pain to use with PLA (again imho). The only reason I would consider a V6 is for an experimental setup for high temp materials. Probably the nicest upgrade would be to use a head with a single UM3 CORE. I made a first version a long time ago as a proof of concept. I expect more versions to pop up once the UM3 design files will be released next week.

I believe prevention is the way to go, so I always keep my PVA and Nylon sealed, also during printing. This means you loose the functionality of using the tags on ultimaker spools, but I don't mind as I'm used to set material type manual anyhow, as you need to do it for non ultimaker materials. I use this; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drybox-for-pva-ultimaker3 To 'repair' your filament you can use something like this, I never had too... https://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/printdry-filament-dryer.html

And what makes a unique user? IP address? Or some sort of PC Id? I use 2 laptops and a desktop on multiple locations... Anyhow impressive numbers.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/50964-unable-to-boot-ultimaker-3#reply-188150 this thread has a link to a recovery image, I never had to use it myself so use at your own risk..... here's how it should work;

is this a question? here's a dice.... https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=dice&sa=&dwh=659c0da8931caf

Heat conductivity of a steel nozzle is poor. For any non abrasive material like pla or ngen don't use it, switch back to a normal nozzle. If you regularly print abrasive stuff, like metal filled material or glow in the dark, a ruby is a good idea. If you just try abrasive stuff you can also keep a normal nozzle specially for this material, but depending on the material it will not last very long.

so you say you can install the AA core in the 2th slot?

I don't get it, the parts seem in the correct order to me, can you describe more what exactly is not working? are parts damaged? bend? here's how the crucial parts match up when new ....

Why would you measure anything if the cad files are on GitHub? Many cad programs let you easily grab the faces of the .step model and save as dxf for example to use in your CNC software.... If you only need dimensions it's also easy to measure accurately in cad. Use f.e. the free fusion360.

short answer, just installing 2 blocks/nozzles in the UM2 head does not work. It's a waste of time to do it. Main issue, you need some kind of lifting system to avoid the unused nozzle to touch the print, or use 2 separate heads, like Mark2. Cooling is another issue.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/50952-i-made-a-mini-ultimaker3-p and here it is with the UM3 head... I used a variety of parts, CNC'd the panels myself, based on modifications to the UM2GO step files, I added 5 cm in height (should not have done that, now it's less cute...) and adjusted it for CNC and 10mm plywood. Also CNC'd the bed. It's probably a lot easier to just laser the panels of an UMO (or get a set online) but I made my own for the fun of it, not because a needed a printer... I used many original Ultimaker parts, like belts and pulleys, just got them at an Ultimaker reseller, not cheap but very convenient. Got the heated bed from 3D solex. Used Chinese clone electronics, a bit of a pain, some connectors were up-side-down, but the original Ultimaker electronics are really expensive.

Oh and things are not always easy to find on this site... but if you look here PVA is basically only good to go with PLA and Nylon.... https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility

I agree information should be given, and the sensitive materials like PVA and Nylon should at minimum be sold in resealable bags, I think the current Ultimaker filament packaging is terrible. But it's an easy problem to solve, if you accept to lose the auto recognition of the spool by the printer. I really don't care for the taged spools, and use many non ultimaker materials that don't have it anyway. With this simple solution I print PVA (even cheaper stuff that's worse than the UM pva) many months after opening, but I never take it out of the dry box.. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drybox-for-pva-ultimaker3