ultiarjan

it will slice when you tick the "print thin walls" box it's seems cura produces some strange artifacts... and a huge amount of travel. for this simple shape you may just want to try the "spriralize" setting for a nice clean single wall print.

+1

Well.... besides the "elaborate profiles" some of the speed settings are a bit strange. Ultimaker Cura defines the main speed setting as the INFILL speed. Basically you set half the speed you think you set in some profiles, above sample is standard PLA for UM3. I personally don't like my infill to print crappy, so I flatten out the speeds to be closer to each other.

Besides the UM2+ feeder (which is fine) , also a bondtech feeder is a good option. The Ultimaker feeder is notoriously difficult to get as a loose product, in the Netherlands it's euro 144 ex tax. The bondtech QR is a little cheaper for euro135 ex tax. http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/extruders/ There's also a bondtech DDG extruder, but it reuses parts of the Ultimaker + feeder, and if you already have an Ultimaker + feeder for most people there will be no need to upgrade.

As mentioned the metal particles will kill your CORE nozzle quickly. Unfortunately Ultimaker does not have any solution on the market for this atm. I hope they someday will bring us a 0.6 RUBY CORE. For now the only solution for the UM3 comes from 3DSolex, with the "everlasting" nozzle ( lol, I would not take that literally ) http://3dsolex.com/product/um3-hardcore/ http://3dsolex.com/product/everlast-hardcore-nozzles/ I have not tried the "everlast" myself, but as said it's the only UM3 option atm. For now the best/cheapest option is printing abrasives on an Ultimaker2. Here you have the option to simply throw away the worn out brass nozzle, or get a RUBY nozzle; http://olssonruby.com/

So are you saying the CORE design is less suited for printing tiny things compared to f.e. the UM2 heater design? Even in single extrusion?

Agree with peggy, probably the Z axis autoleveling. If you find it annoying please know that you can print perfectly without autoleveling. The mechanical stability of an UM bed is very good, once you manually level the bed you can go for a long time without leveling. Also if you keep using autoleveling, its useful to make sure you do a good manual leveling first, so there is less need for compensation.

Interesting.... Multiple build plates? I'm having a hard time picturing what this is... ?? And I hope separation of brim setting between prime tower and print object is still part of the other 43 actions (brim on tower only)

is it possible to configure notifications so you don't get multiple notifications on the same thread?

Maybe obvious.... but did you save the changes? I changed email notifications and it seems to work for me

You are not the first, see below for some advice, if you're not comfortable to do the clean/repair yourself get in touch with your reseller.

Yeah, just install that upgrade kit, the 'new' feeder is great. This will make manual filament change even easier; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 I think anyone who still uses the old (black) UM2 feeder should replace it, eather with the UM+ model or a Bondtech.

Looks good to me! migration seems to have gone very well! @SandervG congratulations! I especially like the ease of quoting in this new forum!

You need to make sure the fans support PWM otherwise you can't control their speed.

I have seen it during the cura connect early beta... But have not had it recently.

then you should be fine now. The tinkerware will let you set esteps and rotation direction.

sure. I don't see why not. If there's the possibility to change esteps you can basically use any feeder you want.

Yes the Bondtech is stepping down requering more motor rotations but so does the current ultimaker feeder. Only the old um2 feeder, the black one, had the knurled wheel directly placed on the motorshaft

Ah so you can see the wheels. That's very nice. So basically it's just 4 screws to open it for cleaning right?

FYI, direct link; https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/

I don't recognize this specific design, but there are plenty out there that may also work for you; https://www.youmagine.com/search/designs?utf8=%E2%9C%93&search=syringe

I usually print slow. IMHO the feeder is not the bottleneck regarding print speed. I'm talking about um2+ feeder ofc. I feel for the old (black) um2 feeder a feeder upgrade is a must but I'm perfectly happy with the current um feeder.

I think it's because for pva there's a bigger default ' horizontal expansion' setting. This is an attempt to connect different spots where pva needs to be printed and avoid isolated spots of pva printed on top of pla. This because pva attaches poorly on top of pla. If this is not needed for this model you can lower the amount.

Though I have not seen the DDG irl it's seems to me it has one disadvantage over the old bondtech models as you can't reach the gears for cleaning. The bondtech type drive-wheels do pollute (fill up with filament) sometimes. Not a big issue, I use and like the bondtech myself on one machine, but it does need cleaning once and a while. Of course you can also take apart the new model, but it's less easy.

Found what I think is a bug, no idea if it's specific for 3.1. When using a post-processing g-code modifier, In my case "pause at height" on the UM3, it will not be applied when printing over the network directly form cura. If however you print via USB, or even if you first save the file somewhere and than print over network, the change will be applied.