fbrc8-erin

The rods are press fit into the black blocks--tilt the black blocks and you can slide the rods out of the printhead. 🙂 I've got another video for that:

Press on the clip with a screwdriver to get it to release. It's hard to see it on video from inside the printer. Here's a close up with the parts removed for clarity. It's a UM3 board in video, but the only difference is that it's on the back of the UMS5 board, but the front of the UM3 board. Just use your screwdriver to apply pressure at the top there to get it to release.

The black and white wires go to the fan in the front plastic bracket.

Try this fix for the fan bracket issue. It's soft metal; if it gets bent out of 90 it doesn't close well; you should be able to bend it back to 90 degrees with a little force.

I wouldn't use 1.75 with a UM3 or a UMS5. It's too narrow for the bowden tube and you'll encounter extra resistance because it won't flow through smoothly. Feeder also won't grip it real well, and the filament could swell in the heater block/nozzle because the diameter is wrong. You might be able to force it to work...but I don't think it would work very well.

@laksh, I've got the parts in stock, and available. I can send you a DM. I don't have them live on my site at the moment.

I haven't tried ColorFabb Co-Polyester, but Ultimaker CPE and PVA are totally a workable and supported combination, per the chart here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility Ultimaker CPE+ isn't supported with PVA (it uses a high bed temperature), but regular Ultimaker CPE is supported with it. In theory ColorFabb Co-Polyester is probably okay, but I haven't tried it. If you're going to try a combination with PVA that you're not sure about...keep an eye on the print when testing it out.

The motor cover is just held in place with tabs. Put your bed all the way at the bottom off the printer, and then pull on the top corner of the motor cover kind of diagonally. It may put up a bit of a fight; it's a tight fit. Press the threaded inserts back into the correct position on the inside of the printer; if need be, you can screw the screw into it with it not quite seated and it will pull it through the rest of the way, and then you can take the screw out and screw your feeder back on.

That' looks like serious fun!

Based on the photos, screen shots, and settings, I'd recommend increasing your support horizontal expansion. It's going to use more PVA (which is expensive as mentioned), but the part with the eyes will stick better if it's attached to the part under the chin. I also usually use a PVA brim for prints with PVA supports.

The geared motors are all press fit. The knurled ones on the UM2 had set screws, but the plastic gears are press fit. @Carlito are you putting a lot of grease on the gears? Installation instructions on the upgrade kit call for a little grease, but it should really only be a very little amount. I've seen a few slipped gears, but it shouldn't be occurring at the rate you're reporting. I would check into the other areas conny_g and Smithy mentioned. Something is making it work too hard.

I can provide some more details on the shipping, but we ship everything FedEx so we can make sure to track it, insure, etc. I realize that might sound silly on something as small as a coupler, but we try and make sure people get the part they need right the first time. We used to split our shipping between UPS and the post office. Bad experiences with both brought us to FedEx; the FedEx hub is located here in Memphis, so we've had a really good shipping experience with them.

fbrc8 ones are OEM from Ultimaker, so definitely not TFM for the UMO/UMO+. Ultimaker hasn't made any updates to the coupler for the UMO/UMO+ ones like the UM2 ones got.

Based on the wrinkle you can see in the panel in the back left corner, the top panel definitely needs to be replaced. It's possible that replacing the top panel and loosening the side panel screws will be enough to get the front panel sitting flat again, but I can't guarantee it based on the photos. It's possible the front panel is no longer square; you could take a right angle tool to the top and check it out. Your reseller probably doesn't have the parts in stock, but if you reach out to them, they should be able to order them.

I second what Smithy said. Would it help if we could see your pictures? I can't seem to get them to display.

For your Ultimaker 2+...it's built into the firmware. Unless you use a different header/manually write gcode that overrides the firmware, it's always going to purge like that. On the UM3, it purges, but differently, and the purge is controlled by Cura, so you have the option to turn it on or off for each print when you slice the file.

The UM2+ does the purge as part of the UM2+ firmware. You could override it with a different slicer, but if you're slicing in Cura, the firmware is going to proceed as normal with this purge. The UM3 does a priming blob at bed level (it should stick) as part of the gcode and settings in Cura. You can also turn it off in Cura. (Check boxes for Enable Prime Blob.)

It's supposed to extrude into the air at the start of a print. I usually grab it with tweezers to keep it from dragging once the purge is done. The purge makes sure you have a good clean flow of filament when your print starts.

You're welcome. Good luck. If you're still not sure after checking out the fan, maybe share a video?

Is your rear fan running? It sounds like your fan wires might be pressed up against the blades.

Glad it's up and running again!

Looks good! Nice work!

Aside from the steppers, the other thing you want to keep in mind: the sliding blocks are made of plastic. If you heat the interior of the printer too much, that plastic will get soft, and your printhead shaft won't stay locked in anymore...which could go really badly mid-print. I try not to let the interior get above 50C.

I've got some on order, but I don't have an arrival date yet. I can follow up on it.

Soldering it might work, but if it was my printer, I think I'd go ahead and replace the board and cable. I responded to your DM @myRobot