tinkergnome

Ups - wait a minute... The feeder motor for UM2+ and UM3 has 1.8° per step (200 steps/rev), and a gear reduction of 36:11 - while the UM2 feeder motor had 0.9° per step (400 steps/rev) and no gear reduction. part no.: 9470 (Feeder Motor Assembly) @remiol where are you located? Here is a link in Europe (for example): https://www.ideato3d.be/boutique/spare-parts/ultimaker-parts/ultimaker-2-parts/ultimaker-2-feeder-motor-assembly-9470/

Meines Wissens nach steht das in der Extruder-Definition von Cura und ist nicht irgendwo im Drucker eingestellt. Die Dateien liegen im (Cura-) Programm-Ordner, unter Windows wäre das z.B.: .......\resources\extruders\ultimaker3_extended_extruder_right.def.json Dort kann man die beiden Optionen für die x/y Position sichtbar machen, das sieht dann (z.B.) so aus: ... "extruder_prime_pos_x": { "default_value": 222, "enabled": true }, "extruder_prime_pos_y": { "default_value": 6, "enabled": true }, ... Wie @Smithy auch schon sagte - ich weiß nicht, ob sich der Aufwand lohnt. Das müsste für jede neue Cura-Version wiederholt werden und den "Blob" ganz abschalten ist in der Regel die einfachere Lösung...

Es kann schon sein, dass das andere Material etwas "nachgiebiger" ist als die Glasplatte und damit das "Active Leveling" etwas daneben liegt. Ein häufiges Missverständnis ist, das sich durch manuelles Leveling der Abstand für das "active leveling" irgendwie beeinflussen lässt. Dem "active leveling" sind die sorgfältig eingestellten 0.15mm aber völlig schnuppe, das ermittelt alles nochmal neu und ausschließlich nach eigenem Gusto... Die vorherige manuelle Einstellung sorgt dann immerhin noch dafür, das die Ebene stimmt - also das die Platte nicht allzu "schief" im Raum liegt - das ist aber auch schon alles. Wenn alles einmal sauber manuell nach Wunsch eingestellt ist, braucht man das "active leveling" nicht mehr. Stell die Häufigkeit für "active leveling" dann einfach auf "Never" (am UM3 ist das ja immerhin noch möglich). Nur dann wird der manuell eingestellte Abstand auch benutzt. Das ist erfahrungsgemäß der beste Weg, wenn alternative Platten benutzt werden. Das manuelle Ausrichten muss dann nur wiederholt werden, wenn die Printcores gewechselt werden. Für den UM3 hab ich auch noch nichts gesehen. Aber wenn Dir dafür noch eine gute Idee über den Weg läuft, sag Bescheid 🙂

Der erste Layer hat eine Höhe von 0.3mm und es folgen 398 Layer mit Höhe 0.2. Die Gesamthöhe ist 79.9mm Entspricht das den Erwartungen?

As a side question... Why is your printer not able to export/import the material settings? Method #2 from the FAQ worked just fine back in the days. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013127919-Custom-material-profiles-for-Ultimaker-2-and-Ultimaker-2-

dunno what those numbers are, but this thread may help if you want to try it:

@jedver24 sorry, but it does look not even close to be printable at all... 🧐 I never used Blender (and it's for sure not the best tool to design such technical things). But there are some good tutorials, you can have a look at this one, for example. Especially chapter 1.2 and all options of chapter 3 https://www.sculpteo.com/en/tutorial/prepare-your-model-3d-printing-blender/

The only way that i know is to set the printer status to "not available" on the Ultimaker Connect page (web browser). There's a 'Manage printer' link on the 'Monitor' stage in Cura. It can't be done from the printers menu. While the printer is "not available" you can do any necessary maintenance tasks, material changes and such things. Set it back to "available" and it will continue to process the printing queue.

Yep. You can save it with this name. It's a standardized format, nearly every CAD program can import it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303-21 BTW: there's a (green) link on the GitHub page to download the whole repository as a zip-Archive. That's probably easier than grabbing each file separately. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/archive/master.zip There are quite elaborate instructions, e.g.: https://all3dp.com/2/step-to-stl-how-to-convert-step-files-to-stl/

OK, but there are different hex-files with this version number and the symptoms are exactly the same as if the variant without 'expansion-board' in the name is installed. That's why this question came to my mind... My recommendation is to double-check that "Tinker-Mark2-expansion-board-19.03.1.hex" is used (or "Tinker-Mark2-extended-expansion-board-19.03.1.hex" if you use an UM2 extended+)

It depends... Is this a setup with the optional expansion board or without? If expansion board is present and connected properly: the matching firmware variant is installed as well?

The lever of the end switch is also bendable (be gentle). There you have yet another possible manufacturing tolerance (if you want to call it so). I have done it in the past to squeeze the maximum out of the build area (so more or less the opposite of your requirement 🙂). But the spacer you made fulfills the same purpose of course.

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/3.6.0 (download links at the bottom of the page)

I found this notes about Creality firmware: https://www.creality.com/info/cr-10s-pro-1701v-firmware-installation-i00019i1.html what...? seriously...? why...? 😲 I'm sure, that's the main part of the problem. Maybe an explicit G29 in the start-script would help to process things in the right order. (dunno) 🤷‍♂️

? wait a minute...? that's totally confusing to me... Why does the printer do (some kind of) ABL and moves to the center (for homing...?), while there is no gcode command that initiates such a sequence...? Is this some sort of automatism that is performed if a print is started from sd-card? And if so - can't it be disabled on the printer?

I see two helpful hints in this topic so far - and both are related to the auto-leveling function of the "Pro" models. The only difference in the "pro" - start-scripts is this single line - which is also related to auto-leveling: M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height I think, it's worth a try, just leave it out and check, if it makes a difference... and/or ask the originator of the "creawsome"-printer definitions about the purpose and the intended behavior of this command. Good luck!

Maybe the fan bracket of the new printhead is just bend outwards a little bit? Can you show a picture? It should look like this: and not like this (yes - i know, that's the old fan bracket, but you get the idea...): The overall width should add up to 98mm (approx.)

There's always hope.... and firmware can evolve over time. BTW: a complaint "feature request" 😏 direct via your reseller can accelerate those things sometimes (if there is enough demand). But at the moment that's the only way (AFAIK). 🙄

That's the so-called "gap-fill". You can set it to "nowhere" to disable it completely - i think this is the recommended setting for those face shields. As an alternative you can possibly "play around" with the line width to get rid of it. Or use the Cura build from @burtoogle, this will do what you suggest here (AFAIK):

The main problem is: it's not a single, solid part, but 12 individual "tiles" that are partly just touching each other at a single edge, partly overlap each other (check the small window), and it seems like the roof of the small window is "floating" in air (I'm not sure with the latter). I don't know how 3DS max works, but the main goal is indeed to merge all pieces together to a single solid object (no "floating" parts, no intersections, no additional "internal" walls). 3D-Builder "repairs" to stl-file to this, dunno if it comes closer to what you expect? mainroof.stl (and sorry for all the quotation marks 😊) If you prepare it for printing on an FDM printer, be aware that the whole part touches the build plate only on a single edge. So you have something to work out to ensure proper adhesion.

Short answer: no, it doesn't. The file is read from the thumb drive. The internal memory is only used for prints initiated via network.

Maybe you picked the wrong firmware variant as a basis? This one is for UM2+ https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware

Well, M300 is meant to play a short beeping sound. The command is supposed to be ignored by printers that do not support it. I guess these four lines can be omitted without any (other) drawbacks. BTW: be aware that the UM3 in general supports only a (small) subset of all possible gcode-commands. More details about the UM3 are to be found in these "inside" articles:

@limelicious The short answer is: the model is not a solid, it's not watertight. The model consists of two separate shells: a solid base and a spherical part that is just an open shell without thickness. It seems like the walls for the holes are completely missing, the top face of the base plate is superfluous and the two parts are not properly connected to each other. Does this help?

It's just a guess, but i assume the R parameter for M190 is not supported by the UM3. That means the Ultimaker can't wait for the target temperature during cooling. The best alternative is probably to add a few minutes pause with the G4 command. You have to test first how long it usually takes to cool down to the target temperature though.