tinkergnome

Sigh... First of all: Sketchup is not well suited as a modeler for 3D printing. You should really consider a different modeling program... If you want to stick with it: start with removing all superfluous inner faces, here are just a few: There should be an "outer shell" tool that can be helpful

Simplify3D does not include this nice "standby temperature automatic" (like Cura). Besides that it works just fine with the Mark2 setup. I see no reason why you should not use ABS, as long as you get dimensional correct prints with it. Insert the magnets with a drop of epoxy and you're good to go.

Thanks - good to know. The tooltip says it will print walls that are thinner than the nozzle diameter. That's a different feature (in my understanding), that's why i have not tried it yet.

There is a reason: Cura disables the heater for any tool that is not longer used for the print. I guess the remaining 40 layers are printed with T1, and T0 is not longer used. That's why Cura disables the heater for T0. This is regularly a problem for printers with multi extrusion, but single nozzle and can perhaps be changed with a postprocessing script, but i don't know if such a thing already exists. I really think this should be properly handled by the firmware of those printers. If it doesn't - it's a firmware bug, not the slicers fault (IMHO)

Has any other thing changed between the two prints? Both prints are started from the sdcard via the printers menu?

True of course. But personally i would kindly ask my favorite Cura contributor if he is willing to implement a "Allow single extrusion for thin walls" feature into the CuraEngine... 😛

....or perhaps: model a solid rectangle (without holes), in Cura choose a wall line count of 1, zero top layers and zero infill. Should also print nicely.

I can make some experiments tomorrow, but first some thoughts... if you connect it with a cable you should get the LAN service-name listed the LAN connection should even work without a router by using a cross-link cable between a PC and the printer (i'm not sure, if a cross-link cable is still needed nowadays - probably a normal cable would work too) on the other hand: all you need is probably the servicename of the ethernet connection, but i don't know, if it can be configured while it is disabled? the service name for a cable connection is usually "ethernet_<MAC-address>_cable" there's a folder for each configured connection in "/var/lib/connman" that corresponds to the service names, to check: ls -d /var/lib/connman/*/ or use "ifconfig -a" to determine the MAC-address for eth0 and insert it in the service name (without colons and brackets)

Well... the gcode that is generated by the slicer only contains the target coordinates, no moving directions. The comment ("lower build plate") is only valid for printers where the buildplate moves down though... but comments don't matter. Printers usually don't support negative coordinates, so there is no way to move the z axis "through the buildplate" to a negative coordinate - but your device may be different? How does the homing sequence and the calibration of the z-position work e.g.? If your custom printer needs a different start script: you can modify it in the machine settings (in Cura). Everything else is a task of the firmware / hardware of your printer. If your issue is different - you have to explain a bit more - i guess...?

Well, it's still an ugly workaround, but it is not hard. The Linux on the Olimex-board is based on Debian (AFAIK). You have to (temporary) enable the developer mode and you can use the wifi hotspot (that the printer creates if you start the wifi setup) for the ssh connection, if there is no other network option available. The printer uses "connman" for the network setup, here are the steps:

It has be done before, there are a lot of pictures in this thread:

Which kind of printer is this? The UM3 electronics doesn't include a real time clock that you can set manually (AFAIK). I think, it tries to get the system time from an ntp server, if it is connected to a network that allows this (firewalls or a proxy may deny it). The S5 uses the same electronics. It's normal that the printer always starts with 01.01.1970 - no need to worry.

Mit Cura nur für Dual-Extrusion, dann aber mit Prime-Tower, ich glaube das macht auch nochmal einen Unterschied. Für alles andere nehm ich Simplify3D - das ist bestimmt auch nicht perfekt, aber damit kommen mein Rechner und ich irgendwie besser klar... 🙂

Wenn ich das richtig verstanden habe, hat das einen technischen Hintergrund. Seit in den neueren Versionen die CuraEngine auf "multi-threading" umgebaut wurde, wird jeder Layer einzeln abgearbeitet und der jeweilige Thread kann überhaupt nicht mehr "wissen", wo der vorherige Layer aufgehört hat.... Schöne neue Welt... das slicen geht damit aber angeblich ein paar Sekunden schneller... 🤷‍♂️ Naja, für optimale Verfahrwege war Cura auch vorher schon nicht der richtige Slicer... Evtl. kann mit dem "Z Seam Alignment" noch etwas beeinflusst werden - ich glaube, da gibt es neuerdings auch einen "Relativ-Modus", wo man feste x/y-Koordinaten angeben kann. Ich kenne mich aber mit Cura nicht besonders gut aus.

My first guess is: Check the settings of "Advanced -> Preferences -> Print area"

Basically it should be possible to use the same start script as before, but the names of the settings / replacement patterns have changed. You will probably need: {material_bed_temperature_layer_0} {material_print_temperature_layer_0} {speed_travel_layer_0} If you're interested: @ahoeben compiled a list of all possible variables a while ago: Settings and replacement patterns

Welcome @ruffnec, a few questions: Do you use the software package for Windows that came with the printer or a different version of Cura? The instructions from Creality are basically: "no driver - use the provided sd-card to print the generated gcode files", does this not work either? For the USB connection on Windows 7 you have to install the provided FTDI drivers, i have no clue what is needed for other operation systems BTW: "Ultimaker 3D printers" is probably the wrong category for this question... wouldn't it be better to move it to the Cura forum?

It's one of the known bugs in version 3.6 and it advertised to be fixed in the next version, see:

Hi @skillzy, there's a link on the Cura product page: View all versions You can download all preceding versions from there.

One thing to consider: the UM2(+) does not support M600 AFAIK, but you can change the filament during a normal pause (M0). To mimic the stacked processes of S3D one has to print one model / color after another. I don't know if this is possible (only) with post-processing? The simple way would be to start each "layer" as a separate print, just take sure that the buildplate stays hot between the prints. Or perhaps combine the gcode files with some scripting?

It's just a guess, but it is well possible that Cura 3.6 generates a different tool path (compared to the older versions). Perhaps with higher accelerations or faster direction changes and your printer cannot keep up and loses steps at some point... The y-axis has a greater inertial mass and is more prone to this problem. That's at least a possible reason why it works sometimes better with a rotated model. 🤷‍♂️

From the menu choose: "Expert" -> "Open expert settings...", and enable "Spiralize the outer contour" in the "Expert config" dialog. Good luck!

The version number implies that you're talking about the Lulzbot Cura edition, is this right? It is well possible that this edition has very different options in comparison to Ultimaker Cura. I doubt that you'll find an answer to this question here in the Ultimaker world then... Maybe better ask Lulzbot for support? As @gr5 said: with Ultimaker Cura the workflow is simple: - select both objects (right click: "Select All Models") - merge the origin of all models (right click: "Merge Models") (and in your modeling software: take sure that the origin of both parts is the same)

If i remember right the flex-wedge was contributed by someone who owns a printer with a slightly thinner top panel. That's probably the reason... I would just mount the standard wedges, it works like a charm on my printer (for years now).