Smithy

It is configurable and I guess the default is not to glow when the print is finished. You can setup the lights, to always on, or only on when printing and pulsating when finished.

to follow the trend with dark themes and background 🙂

Was auch noch sein kann, dass äussere Einflüsse die Messung beeinträchtigen. Der Sensor ist sehr empfindlich, also man sollte nicht in die Maschine reingreifen während der Messung. Falls nun irgendetwas in unmittelbarer Nähe steht wo elektromagnetische Wellen entstehen, könnte das die Messung auch stören und beeinflussen.

Hallo Tobias ich denke das sollte kein Problem sein, Du schickst den Druckjob von Cura an den Drucker, wenn du die Webcam anschaust, geht die Verbindung auch von Cura aus weg. Mir fällt jetzt kein Punkt ein wo der Drucker die Kommunikation aufbauen würde. Einzig beim Firmware Update am Drucker, geht der Drucker ins Internet und braucht auch eine Verbindung zu einem Timeserver. Aber eine Verbindung zu Cura baut der Drucker soweit ich weiß nie auf.

The "Filament Change" Plugin doesn't work for Ultimaker printers, but you could use "Pause at height" and then change the filament.

When you print over USB it could happen that Cura don't notice that the printer is away or rebooting. I guess if you print via SDCard then the printer had stopped after the reboot. A UPS battery could work, but depends on the power usage of your printer (which should be not so much) and the capacity of the battery. If you have often such outages you should consider to try an UPS to be on the safe side.

No, there is no option to configure the sort order. But, yes would be a great feature, I also don't like to scroll all the way down, but I guess it will never come, the UM2+ is too old to get any new updates or features. I am not sure if the Tinkergnome FW has such a feature, if not, raise a feature request on Github, maybe you have luck.

Have you installed the CC Red Core as well and are you using an S5? Otherwise you get the warning because the material is abrasive and would wear it out normal nozzle and feeder if you try it on the UM3.

If you want to have more options to fine tune your Lithophane, you can use an free online service as well: http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/

Hi for processing a Lithophane you don't need a plugin, just use the open menu item to load a picture and a dialog box comes up. You can find the Cura folder when you click on HELP and then "Show Configuration Folder". To install plugins, use the marketplace in the upper right corner. There are plugins and material profiles to install. If you find a plugin which is not in the marketplace, download it and simply drag it onto the Cura window to install it.

Das Active Leveling wird immer mit beiden Cores gemacht, egal ob einer deaktiviert ist. Und es müssen beide Cores geladen sein, nur einer geht nicht. Ich würde auch auf den Abstand tippen, dass es entweder zu hoch oder zu tief ist. Beim UM3 waren das 14mm, das wird beim S5 auch so sein, allerdings kann man das nicht mehr so leicht messen.

Your bed is leveled correctly? If you use manual leveling try to decrease the nozzle - bed distance. Then try to use some glue stick on the glass for better adhesion and distribute the glue with a wet tissue to get a thin layer of glue. And/or try to lower your heated bed temperature. Maybe the PLA filament you are using is not of good quality and the default 60° are too much.

Meistens reicht es auch und beides macht wenig Sinn. Die Prime Linie (oder wie man auch immer dazu sagt) ist eigentlich nichts anderes als der Skirt (also die Linien rund um dein Objekt). Beides dient dazu den Fluss in der Düse sicherzustellen. Wo das passiert ist aber egal.

Ich vermute einmal, dass diese Prime Linie in dem Ender Printer Profil hinterlegt ist. Kannst ja einmal schauen was im Start GCode drinnen steht. Es könnte sein, dass die Druckerprofile mit 4.2.1 angepasst wurden. Die Prime Linie kennt man z.B. vom Prusa Drucker, der macht das auch per Default. Prinzipiell finde ich es nicht schlecht, wenn die Düse vor dem dem Druck "vorbereitet" wird, damit dann das Filament startklar ist.

I can fully understand your frustration. One more idea, do you use the Z-Height plugin in Cura? There was a problem with that plugin and the new firmware. But anyway, you should contact your reseller about your issue. It is not normal and even if they have no fix, they can report the issue back to Ultimaker.

I use the Polybox which is simple but works great. I have no need to use the NFC function, it only detects the spool when loading but you can also choose the material manually. There is no more difference or other functionality behind the NFC detection. I think I have seen a DIY box for the back of the printer somewhere on Thingiverse. But I don't think it will be so airtight that it works like a Polybox. They use just a IKEA Box with some printed parts. A dedicated dry box from Ultimaker which fits nicely on the printer would be great, but I don't know the roadmap if such a box is planned. On the other hand, the S5 has an extension port on the back. So maybe we will see some addons in the future.

Strangely, if you say both printers have the same problem, then I wouldn't think of a hardware problem either. On the other hand, many other UM3 printers run without problems with the current firmware. Have you already contacted your reseller about the problem? What else comes to mind, did you check if the distance between between the bottom of the heated bed and base plate is 14mm? I don't think that's the problem, because if it doesn't fit, there will be an error while leveling, but that's all I can think of. Did you change anything else on the glass plate? BuildTak or something similar mounted or everything original? The glass itself is also an original or has at least the same thickness?

Can you elaborate a bit more, what exactly is your problem with the auto leveling? I am also on the latest firmware and auto leveling works fine as it should without any issues. So if it is not working for you, then I guess you have maybe a hardware issue or something like that. I don't think it is a firmware issue, because then all other users will have the same problems.

You can use the CC core also on the UM3, you will just get a warning in Cura because the feeder gears are not hardened. So beware of that, that when you print with abrasive materials that you will damage and wear out our feeder. Another option is to use the 3DSolex Core, there you are able to change the nozzle to whatever you want.

Amazing work, looks fantastic!

Basically the prime tower helps to reduce oozing and to prime the nozzle before printing the next layer. When printing dual colors it can help to get a sharper and cleaner separation between the two colors. In most cases it is not needed, but if you need a perfect surface in dual color mode, then give it a try. When printing with support materials, it is not needed in my opinion. Here is some more info also about the settings: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49701-dual-extrusion

The current version has a few bugs, but not so dramatic that nothing works anymore. What concrete problems do you have with it?

I am not at my printer at the moment, but you should be able to get into the menu with the 3 dots in the upper right corner during a print.

You can get much better dimensional accuracy, when you modify some settings. Equalize all speed and jerk settings, wall, infill, skin 30mm/sec, and wall, infill, skin jerks 30mm/sec Line width 0.4 Horizontal Expansion to -0.03 for 0.15 layer height, 0.02 for 0.1 layer height or -0.04 for 0.2 layer height Slicing Tolerance = Exclude Outer Before Inner Walls = checked Print as cool as possible to avoid over extrusion The main point is to equalize and lower the speeds, and to set the default line width from 0.35 to 0.4

Don't forget that the UM2+ is already over 3 years old, at that time a filament sensor was not so common. An upgrade to a filament sensor won't come, but it's not that important. I have the sensor for the S5, it works very well there, but the time between pause and change of filament should not be too long, otherwise you will see it at the end.