Smithy

Mit Menü am Drucker meinst du die Datei Auswahl von der SD Karte? Kann es am Dateinamen liegen? Vielleicht kann der Creality keine langen Dateinamen, Sonderzeichen oder sonst etwas und zeigt es deswegen nicht an? Ich habe mit Creality Druckern leider gar keine Erfahrungen.

Thanks again for testing Rudy, I really appreciate it. I'm glad it's the same with you because I thought it was just me. I also think it's because of the support below, it's a bit unusual and in combination with the frame. I suspect the support structure prevents the stress from cooling down, releasing the part from the glass. Lately, I've almost only printed these frames, about 50 pieces with Tough PLA. Probably there will be no problems with "normal" parts. But I am finished now with this project, I have processed the last order over the weekend, and can now concentrated again to other things. BTW: This frame is to cover the traditional light switch when using a Philips HUE dimmer switch.

Ich glaube du musst das näher erklären, was wird nicht angezeigt? Das Objekt in Cura nachdem du die STL Datei importiert hast?

Looks great and looks like a lot of work. Are they flexible a little bit or completely rigid?

But the result is great and I like that it is completely different than usual 3D prints.

I had no issues with ASA, but I printed just a few parts. It depends on the part (shape) of your model, but for me, CPE+ works better and easier than CPE. With CPE or normal PETG, I got a lot of zits and stringing. You can only try it. Regarding Print Tower, you can also try to manually put the tower near to your object. The default location in the back right is often not the best choice.

Thanks!

Small fans are often very noisy, so test it before you buy more.

Yes, that's right...

No, without pressing Shift it rotates by 15° and with pressing Shift you rotate by 1°.

Very nice when it is so small. What about the noise?

You should go back you do it again. You only covered the front with a very thin face. Behind that face, there is still the original text. The face is so thin, that Cura doesn't slice it, that's the reason, why you see it in solid view, but not in the layer view. When you check the option "print thin walls" you get it also in layer view, but you should not print it that way, because it is not correct. You have to cover the text with a thicker solid block, that all of the previous text is covered. Then put your text to it and make it at least 0.41mm high or deep. With a 0.4 nozzle Cura can print walls with 0.41 or thicker, otherwise if thinner, you have to check the option "print thin walls", but it is always better to design it the right way. But I like that failure 🙂 You can cover something in solid view or for STL viewers, but when thin enough if will not print, and shows the other version of it. Maybe useful for some hidden copyright messages 🙂

How have you changed the text on the object? Can you upload your STL file here, then we can take a look at it.

Hi Ghene I haven't tried it myself, but it should be no problem. For PETG and rPET you can use the CPE material profile. CPE is PETG just another name and maybe a different mixture. Start with the CPE profile and maybe adjust the recommended print temperature from the vendor. That should be all. I disable usually also combing which gives me a better result (combing = off)

PETG drucke ich mit einer Geschwindigkeit von "nur" 35mm/sec mit 255°, das kann sich bei deinem Speed nicht ausgehen und ich denke auch, dass hier der Fehler liegt. Aber teste es einfach einmal, trenne dich von deinem Highspeed und drucke das ganze einmal mit 40mm/sec und schau ob es dann immer noch passiert.

No, you don't miss something, it is normal. I also didn't see this information on the S5 and also not on the UM3. I guess the screenshots on the UM site are wrong or from some older versions.

Have you enabled the Prime Tower in Cura? If not, give it a try and enable it, but position the tower manually nearer to your object. Per default, it is located in the back right corner and you should put it as near as possible to your object which avoids the stringing.

The Ender 3 has serious problems with his feeder, search Creality specific sites for more and deeper information. There are some community modifications available as far as I know. Additionally, check if everything is tight enough, check your Z screw, if it can move smoothly over the whole length. A friend of mine has an Ender 3, so I know there are a lot of problems, which needs some tinkering and where you need to make additional modifications. Best is to check the Creality related sites and forums for deeper information. And, personally I haven't tried the Amazon Basic filament, but I heard that it is also not the best choice. But this is not your problem now, just an additional hint if you have fixed your current issue(s) and then see still some problems in your prints.

In Cura you can use the generic CPE material which is a kind of PETG. For PETG it is important to print slow and often it helps when you turn off the combing feature in Cura. ABS is not the best choice for outdoor because it is not resistant to UV light. ASA which is a kind of ABS is better for outdoor usage. PETG has similar properties as ABS also heat resistance if you choose CPE+ or ColorFabb HT material. It is not wrong to use ABS but due the toxic fumes and problems with layer bonding and adhesion it is nowadays not the first choice for such requirements.

If the gear has a normal round hole without a flat part, then you have to position the set screw to this flat part. When tightened, the screw prevents the gear from spinning on the axis.

Ich weiß nicht ob sich das auszahlt, der Drucker braucht im Standby fast keinen Strom, Display & Beleuchtung kannst du sowieso ausschalten, somit wird dann eigentlich nur mehr das Board mit Strom versorgt. Und ob nun das UM2 Board oder ein Raspberry läuft macht dann auch keinen Unterschied mehr. Ich schalte meine Drucker so gut wie nie aus, die laufen einfach immer im Standby. Licht ist ausgeschaltet wenn er nicht druckt und gut ist es.

Whenever you have time - thanks a lot!

Thanks for the update!

Thanks a lot for the update and I am glad to hear that your problem is solved now.

That would be great, many thanks! But I think it makes only sense if you print the same part, but you can abort after 2-3 mm, then we know if it is the support structure or something else. HUE_Frame.stl Just use the normal 0.15 profile, and enable support. Thanks a lot!