Well.. hypothetical; if before you thought you were printing at 210ºC you could be printing at 220ºC and it allowed you to print at 60mm/s. If you now set it to 210ºC again, 60mm/s might be to fast for your heaterblock to keep up and you have to increase the temperature to 220ºC, which looks like it is hotter, but it is actually the same.
There are more parts in to play, like nozzle sizes, a stronger heater cartridge and a more powerful feeder.
But if you chew it down, and just look at the temperature displayed and want to achieve the same ratio, (maybe some users only want to upgrade the PT100 for their regular Ultimaker 2), they probably have to go a little bit higher.
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SandervG 1,521
I'm still waiting for an answer. If someone else knows, please let me know. Thanks.
I have the answer!
The old PT100 had a copper wire and shielding surrounding the sensor. Both could potentially withdraw heat from the sensor. The shielding could also vary in tightness as how it was installed around the sensor. This could lead to an varying abnormality in the actual temperature reading (lower).
The new PT100, which is still Class B sensor, has a nickel wire and will result in a more accurate temperature reading.
We estimate that some users going from an Ultimaker 2, to an Ultimaker 2+ may need to set their temperature a little bit higher as they are used to, to make up for this difference.
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neotko 1,417
In theory the temp should be the same because the more powerful geared extruder no?
Maybe even lower?
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