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This is super common with the UMO. Did you assemble it yourself? Did you get some spare set screws? Mine came with black set screws in each pulley but it also came with a second set of set screws with a sharper point that are better. I still haven't used the better ones - instead I just tightened the hell out of all the pulley set screws. There are 12 of them but you appear to be having issues with just the X axis so tighten those 6 screws (not four! six!). Especially the one on the motor. If you don't believe this is the problem I can prove it by having you mark the pulley and the shaft with a sharpie and then print something and then check again and you will see the pulleys are slipping on the shaft. Tighten it so tight you are scared you are going to break something. Quite tight.

I've never seen a nozzle I can't unclog (by the way I sell 3dsolex parts in USA). If you need to take your UM core apart to unclog it, as a last resort, you can follow the instructions in this video I made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln_tMz8Dwd0 how to properly unclog a core (hot pull, cold pull): https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-clogged-print-core

At first I thought you did the X,Y calibration wrong but now I'm thinking I didn't understand your words. Do you remember what values you used for the X and Y calibration? They should have been close to zero. Maybe 5 at the most? In that last photo - is that arrow pointing to a brim or is that layer offset from the layers above? If it's offset then you have some serious amount steps being lost. First figure out if one axis is slipping or if it's both axes. Usually only one axis slips. Then tighten the hell out of the pulleys on that axis. There are 5 or 6 pulleys to tighten on each axis (not just 4) and usually the one that is slipping is the hardest to get to - the one on the stepper. But you can push the head around until the screw lines up and get in there with a long hex driver and tighten it very hard such that the steel tool twists a bit. Really tight! Tight enough that you are nervous that something will break. Then also pay a lot of attention to when it switches cores. It shouldn't hit the tool changer thing on the wall of the printer hard enough to flex it. and if you hear a loud thud sound that was probably the moment you lost a step. You might have to recalibrate the tool changing position. I've never had to do that myself.

This is probably because of "support horizontal expansion" and is occasionally a waste but usually a good thing because... PLA sticks nicely on top of PVA but not the other other way around - PVA does not stick so well on top of PLA. But it sticks great to the glass and to itself. So if you were printing say a cube with a large horizontal hole through it and you wanted support inside the tube. It's best to connect the PVA inside the tube down to the glass bed. "support horizontal expansion" takes care of that situation and many more (but not all situations). I'd have to see the rest of your model to know if what you circled is very helpful or just a waste of PVA.

You want "infill". Not "support". Play with infill settings. You might want to try the "gradual infill" feature to save time if you ever print something much larger.

Look at the machine settings in cura 3.3 and then look at them in 3.4/3.5. Something is different in there. Possibly the checkbox next to "0,0 is center" is wrong? Perhaps one of the start gcodes.

That's underextrusion. Those gaps are most likely due to the Z axis moving too far suddenly. If the Z axis moves too far then you basically have underextrusion. However it could be that the filament is too tight in the bowden (varying filament diameter) or tangled filament or a few other issues. But it looks like each time it's an entire layer. Maybe you could verify if those lines go ALL THE WAY around or not. If not then it's not a Z issue. Z issues are a pain to figure out. Usually bad bearings/sticky bearings or bad Z nut or bad z screw(s). If the bed moved up and down I'd say put a brick on the bed to see if it makes it much worse or much better and if so it's a Z issue. But I don't think you have a bed that goes up and down so I really have no idea. This is an Ultimaker/cura forum. Not a creality forum.

me too! I have a 3d mouse also. But no such luck ?

Please change the colors in cura to show the different line types and make them all visible. Is it doing non extruding moves (the blue lines) a lot in that area? Maybe make sure to turn off "coasting" and possibly "outer wall wipe distance"? Maybe. I'm really just grasping at straws here. But I would print a test cylinder and make sure it is still doing this strange issue and then see if changing some settings corrects it. I'm not familiar with this particular issue.

I haven't gotten that error but possibly it's from the filament sensor? If so you can disable the filament sensor for that particular extruder. Although when it's working it's great as it can save you from a failed print where simply reload another spool of filament and continue.

The model's walls are too thin. You have several options. One is to check "print thin walls" but how thin are your walls? For example a typical nozzle is 0.4mm wide. If the walls are thinner than that well the cookie cutter won't be strong enough anyway - it will be as bad as using paper for a cookie cutter. I recommend 1mm thick walls for a cookie cutter. A better option is probably to make the model solid with a top and bottom and then in cura tell it to do no top/bottom layers thickness 0 and zero infill and then cura can do it in one pass instead of two (prints twice as fast) and you can control the thickness of the cookie cutter in cura. Set line width and wall width to 0.6 for a thick strong cookie cutter or 0.4 for a thinner cookie cutter.

So you might want to tighten all 3 leveling knobs an equal amount - say about 4 full turns and then do manual leveling again. Or even better - loosen until the springs are loose then tighten about half way so the springs are all half way compressed. Then start the leveling procedure. I've only had to do this when I've taken the bed apart so this should be a pretty rare activity. What you describe about plastic not sticking on the first layer sounds like a leveling issue where the bed is too far from the nozzle. You can usually verify by pushing up on the bed and if it gets much better then it was too far from the nozzle.

So if you look 2 and 3 photos above at the side of benchy - those look like play/backlash issues where sometimes the head moves farther than others. In other words an intermittent hardware issue. I could be wrong - it could be overextrusion for example due to speed changes (I like to set ALL printing speeds the same to avoid stuff like that). play/backlash can be caused by high friction (one drop of light oil on all the rods helps and feel the friction with power off - compare X to Y) and it can be caused by loose belts (pluck the belt with head in corner - for a UM2/Um3 it should be around 90-130Hz. Dont' know anything about creality printers.

This is a common problem in Marlin/arduino printers. It's a data error. Some of the gcodes are getting bits flipped. Let me back up. To get gcodes into the arduino it usually comes from either a USB serial cable or from an SD card. They often then travel through two ribbon cables to the arduino. Either the SD card, the ribbon cable, or the USB signal is flakey and bits are getting flipped randomly. There is a checksum such that if one bit is flipped it will be discovered but the checksum is only 8 bits (256 possible checksums). When the checksum doesn't match the gcode is resent to the arduino. But once out of every 256 times the errors add up to the proper checksum and a bad gcode gets through. This is the problem for you. So typically a gcode like this: G1 X50.123 Y23.332 E190.243 can get any random number changed to another. So if the E190 gets changed to E100 it retracts 90mm and then the next gcode is fine (e.g. E191.111) and it unretracts. Also you will see things like an X107 change to an X207 (if your printer is that big) and it will move way over by 100mm off to the edge of the printer and then go back and continue. It leaves this little strings on the outside of the print. You can usually hear these anomalies while it prints. Also you can often get the dreaded "out of bounds" or "tried to print outside volume" or something like that. If you are using SD card the solution is to clean that out. I had a single hair causing a problem once. Try taking it apart and cleaning with vacuum or blowing air or toothpicks or qtips with alcohol. if it's the USB try using a different cable or different computer that might have more oomph to the voltage signals. Keep microwave ovens and computers and such far from the printer (at least 1 meter). Where possible. Repositioning the ribbon cables sometimes helps also. And/or separating them by a few mm with some kind of non conductive spacer such as blue tape or foam.

Don't mess with the feeder. It's almost always a problem at the other end (the print head) that causes the grinding. Two possibilities: 1) Maybe you have too many retractions. I'm thinking this virus might have many "islands" on a given layer? If true there may be so many retractions that it's grinding up the filament for that reason. I like to keep this down to 10 retractions for any spot of filament. To do that set maximum retraction count to 10 and set minimum extrusion distance to your retraction distance (probably 4.5mm - just use 4.5mm if you don't know what it is). 2) Maybe you just have too much pressure in the head. Try printing at half speed. Yes it will take almost twice as long but better than a failed print and you will learn something (whether it's grinding because there's too much pressure in the print head). You can just do this change in the TUNE menu on the printer. Or in cura.

@buckyuk - this topic is years old. You should start a new one. But if you didn't create the STL yourself then try the netfabb free repair service: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php It's free but you have to create an account. Once you create the account the repair service is fast and incredibly simple.

Sketchup isn't good at creating 3d solid models but if you want to stick with sketchup then you'll have to read this: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

OH WAIT! I have the same problem in the settings guide. Main cura is fine.

works for me. Maybe video driver issue? Check windows update to see if there is an optional video driver update.

I built and got a UMO working but I've never tried that particular wizard thing. Is it supposed to be homing? If so it's going to the opposite corner than it should be. You can pick one of the twisted pairs that goes to the connector (where the cable connects to the PCB (printed circuit board) and pop out two of those and swap them. That will reverse the stepper. But first see if it is trying to home... Try pushing on the endstops in the near left corner (front left corner) while doing that movement. Press them twice (homing goes to those twice). Actually also make sure you got all the right endstops going to the correct locations on the circuit board. Also make sure that when you push the head to a corner you hear the end stops click. Personally I would install pronterface - I find it easier to debug. It shows the status of the limit switches also in pronterface so you can test those first. Then you can make sure that +X moves head right and +Y moves the head to the rear. Get pronterface here. It's free: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Oh but you need a PC. Do you have a pc? In the video you used a mac.

In your video the extruder is working great - it's extruding lots of filament. So I'm a bit confused. Maybe your video should have shown what's going on at the extruder instead? Is this a UM2 with the black feeder? Or a UM2+ with the white feeder? Or something else? Is it grinding on the very first layer or only later on? I suppose your steps/mm may be off for the extruder. Try putting the filament half way down the bowden, then use the MOVE command to move the filament exactly 100mm and measure how far it moved. It may be extruding at 2X or so the nominal rate. That would cause it to extrude nicely and also grind up the filament at the same time.

Other things that can affect dimensionality are over/under extrusion. So if the feeder experiences extra friction the filament will slip in the feeder a bit even though it's steel gnurled wheel pushing on the filament - if you measure the holes in the filament created by the feeder they will be closer together when it's pushing harder and the holes will be elongated. Typical printing underextrudes by 10% so you would expect that the 0.4mm outer traces would add up to an error of about 0.04mm typically (dimensions smaller than expected). The bottom layer typically sticks out farther because you want to squish this layer so the part sticks (if the part comes loose during a print it can be a disaster for your printer causing something called a "head flood". Google it. Fortunately never happened to me as my parts stick very well. You can compensite by setting "initial layer expansion" to roughly negative half the nozzle width - I like -0.25 for 0.4 nozzle. Corners can bulge out if the print head slows down - often the printer overextrudes one or all corners. Temperature affects extrusion amount. Lower temperatures you get better quality but more underextrusion (if you get up to 20% underextrusion now it's 0.1mm error on the outer walls). Bed temperature affects this. Fan speeds affects this (faster fan is better for PLA). PLA color affects this - for example white PLA is the most difficult because it has so much colorant (chalk?) and less PLA. White filament is less viscous so flows faster and doesn't underextrude as much unless you lower the temperature to compensate. Lowering the temperature also helps the quality of white filament particularly. Printing speed affects this because if you print faster it tends to underextrude more. 10% underextrusion is typical and normal and results in excellent prints. But it's still underextruded.

The x,y,z measurements of the 5 cubes 3 photos above look typical except for one - the Z value in cube 5 surprises me. I thought you said that corner was low. I would expect that cube would be at least 0.3mm too tall yet it is shorter than the others. So maybe your bed is flatter than you thought.

Two photos above you show a ruler checking flatness of large bottom plate - that doesn't matter. Your print bed is supported by exactly 3 points and those matter but the bottom plate can be very warped and it's no problem. It just needs to support the 3 screws to a level position with a few mm.

Listening to sound I think maybe your shafts are a little loose - grab each of the 4 shafts and push them towards their ends. They should not slide. No more than 0.2mm I suppose. Or none at all. If I am right, one of the 4 shafts is sliding. I'm not sure if this affects print quality much or at all. It might. The fix is simple - loosen the set screw on one of the pulleys on either end and push the pulleys outwards until they stop then re-tighten. There is a black plastic spacer/bearing that keeps the pulley from going all the way to the wall. I could be wrong - it's just that is what it *sounds* like.