gr5

I'm not familiar with that printer but in photos, it looks like 99% of cheap printers out there which means it is Marlin based (marlin is the firmware) and some kind of RAMPS board, arduino like computer for the hardware. Actually, 99% is pretty low estimate. So that means the microSD card isn't supposed to have any firmware on it. The firmware is called Marlin (like the fast fish) and is customized for each printer type. It is pre-installed. You can usually download the ".hex" file from the manufacturer. Often from github somewhere if the manufacturer has any decency. or from their website. But it's extremely unlikely that you need to update the firmware. The firmware shouldn't need updating for decades or ever. Then the printer should also have a USB port on it. You can connect that through an old USB cable (not the newer cables) to any linux, windows, or apple computer. That is the cable you need to update the firmware (which you shouldn't need to do and is dangerous as you might install the wrong type of firmware). But you can also print gcode files through that cable. However it's best to print gcode files through the SD card. They cost less then a cup of coffee at Starbucks. Look for a 4GB SD card although that printer can probably go up to a maximum of 32GB. Not sure. Dont' get anything larger than 32GB. It may be hard to find SD cards this old/small but not too hard. They can be found in some DSLR cameras and other equipment. Do you even know about slicers? How to convert a CAD file into a gcode file? You need the gcode file for the printer.

The two cores won't mechanically ever be at the same height. And if you were to do this the heads would have to be within about 0.05mm at the same height. Not 0.5mm, not 0.1mm but 0.05mm would be about the maximum you could print with different heights. The piece of metal in the base of the print head is different for the left and right core. There is just no way to adjust one core vertically (to that kind of precision) without affecting the other core. There just isn't a way the hardware can do this even with some simple modifications. And then you would have a software problem as for the S5 you have the T0 command (tool zero) and T1 command (switch to tool 1). When you issue those it swaps "tools" (cores). There is no way to tell both extruders to move at the same time without modifying the firmware. After a T0 command, moving the extruder only moves the left extruder. After a T1 command, using gcodes to move the extruder only moves the right extruder. Instead, to speed things up, consider getting some smaller, cheaper printers to supplement your S5. Smaller printers tend to print with more precision. I have 3 um2go printers that cost much less than half the cost of a single S5 (although I modified them to have the olsson block and the heated bed).

I've used network printing and also USB printing on my S5 and the network printing is nice but really I find the USB printing pretty convenient and easy to do. The occasional headache with network printing makes it just slightly less convenient and I'm pretty happy with USB printing.

Oh that sucks. Do you verify once or every time? If you only have to verify once per year you could do it with wget but it could take many hours to get the right packets figured out. Can't they just assign your printers fixed IP addresses? Then they could manually approve the printers in advance. The printers have their own built in firewall which you can enable in the menu system. Also they run linux, not windows. Also, unless they are in developer mode, they block ssh. So they are pretty secure.

It's usually either excess friction or those grub screws. Push the head around to make sure friction is simlar in both axes. I assume you lubricated where they go through the print head and also where they go through the sliding blocks? Much more likely it's the grub screws. Usually it's the one on the stepper motor. If you have a long hex wrench you can get to those without removing the plastic corner-covers. But removing those covers shouldn't be too bad - I think they pop out. You really have to tighten the hell out of those locking screws. The steel tool should twist a bit. It's usually the screw on the stepper (as that pulley has the most force on it) but it could be the very next pulley connected to the same belt. The fact that it recovers makes me think it's on the stepper and that the stepper has a rod with a "flat" surface and that the pulley rocks back and forth a tiny bit.

Something is strange. Do you have infill turned off? Is this spiralize mode? Maybe you should post your project file (do "file" and then "save project as" or something like that. Then post the result which will include all your settings and your model(s).

So I believe the printer connects out only. No firewalls need opening. And they use web browser protocols. Just like a cell phone or laptop. So if you can get a wired connection (instead of wifi) then maybe you won't need to do the verification.

You can also edit or delete the cura.cfg file in the same folder as the cura.log file. There's not much in that file. Just set the left/x/top/y values to zero. Or delete them.

Direct message me or email me if the uSD method doesn't work and you have questions about the error messages you see through the serial cable that aren't already answered in the web page above. I keep updating that page.

So you have quite a few options. You can connect an HDMI cable to a monitor to get more details about what is going on or better yet get the olimex serial F cable and then you can definitely see exactly what is going on and you can type in certain commands which might fix the issue. Start here: http://gr5.org/unbricking/ (instructions related to UM3/S3/S5 are all basically the same). Within that page there is a link back to the forum which has the uSD fix which I would try first. meanwhile perhaps order the olimex-serial-f cable mentioned on my web page. There are many USB-to-serial cables that should work but I'd get the olimex one to be sure and it's not expensive.

Clearly it's not the sensor. Good debugging. So obviously the heater can't get it hot enough. Is this happening while printing? Or even during heat up. For example I can't even print at 210C with a 0.8mm nozzle with 0.4mm layers printing at 60mm/sec. The original heater just can't keep up. Even if I turn the fans off. So it could be you need a more powerful heater (3dsolex sells 35,40, and 50 watt heaters for um2). Or it could be your fans are blowing on the nozzle. Or very common, your metal fan shroud is touching the heater block. That's common if you took it apart recently. Make sure you can slip a piece of paper from the rear between the block and the shroud. Or just try removing the fan shroud temporarily to see if it can now heat up to 240 just fine. The fix is usually to rotate the round nut which will raise up the heater block a little more. Or maybe there is resistance somewhere in the cabling to the heater or something that Porkpie mentions above.

Does that mean you did a "digital factory reset"?

I don't know the answer but I'd do the following: Put it into developer mode if it isn't still in that mode. Once in dev mode it always displays the IP address at the top of the screen. Is it still at that IP address you set with conman? Okay then I'd ssh into the machine and try to ping your way to the internet to make sure it isn't being blocked. Or use wget. I'm 90% sure it only uses http (or maybe https) protocols so I'd make sure port 80 and 443 are not blocked within your location. So for example you can do: wget google.com And it should grab index.html And then try wget ultimaker.com And wget https://ultimaker.com In all cases it should retrieve an index.html (or index.html.N) file. If any of those things don't work it should give you clues. You can try to ping internal servers, ping 8.8.8.8, test DNS functionality and so on.

It's called a "tower". You can disable it. It's a checkbox. I usually leave it. Yes it wastes material but you get a cleaner print. When one nozzle is inactive it leaks for the first 60 seconds or so and extrudes a tiny little sausage. When it starts printing again that "sausage" gets attached to the print. If you don't care about those you can disable the prime tower. Alternatively you can change the location of the tower to make it closer to the print to save a little time.

I recommend you skip your reseller in this case. I don't know much about this but I think there is a way to get directly to Ultimaker support in Netherlands if you do this: Click that icon in the upper ;right corner, then click support, then click "Submit a request". (all of these in the upper right corner of any Ultimaker.com page). I think any ticket you create there will be seen by ultimaker support in Netherlands? Not certain but maybe. Possibly they will just forward your ticket to your local reseller but possibly not if you say you already spoke to them and got bad advice.

Your reseller is wrong. You don't need to keep updating the firmware at all. You can just keep using the original firmware. And you don't need to send the machine to the reseller to repair it. A few years ago, UM told the reseller not to let the users unbrick their S5 if it was the older version as UM was concerned that someone without adequate training might electrocute themselves but now there is a pdf that the reseller can send you for detailed instructions of how to do it without danger. How old is the S5? Is it the "R1" with the robot on the side panels or the "R2" with the big "U" on the side panels? You need to "unbrick" your machine. There is information on how to do this in this thread: But be warned that it might not work. If you get that error you displayed without having done a firmware update then that is a bad sign that some file got corrupted on the "hard drive" (it's a solid state drive). So you might need to read my (much more detailed and more complicated) directions here: gr5.org/unbricking/

So there were some SSL certificates that ran out "recently". Back in September 2021. You might need the latest firmware for your S5. The latest firmware has newer SSL certificates. This is related to the "let's encrypt" fiasco that happened last September. Which was in the news big time as it affected a lot of devices. So it might be related to that but I'm not sure why it would take so long for you to see the issue. Anyway: do you have the latest firmware?

You need dev mode to use the built in REST API?

Here's another view. Anything red is a problem. Sending a ray through from your eye all the way through the model - if it encounters an odd number of surfaces then that is a problem and it colors the model red. Even number of surfaces get different shades of blue (usually good).

Yeah this model is a mess. It should be pretty easy to fix. Did you crate the model? Was it blender or sketchup? If so there are guides for making manifold objects. Google "how do I make my blender (or put sketchup) model manifold?". Also there is a tool in the cura marketplace called "mesh tools". This will help show you the issues with your model. You have to model the thickness of all walls. You can't just make them infinitely thin and you can't have arbitrary surfaces inside a solid portion of your print. It confuses cura -- what is that internal vertical surface in the middle of the model? It's infinitely thin so get rid of it?

Wow that sucks. Maybe you just have a really big STL file? Too many triangles? How big is the file in bytes or in triangles? You can reduce the number of triangles using some easy-to-use and free software (e.g. meshlab). I like to keep it under 100,000 triangles (typically 6MB) but cura can usually handle a million just fine. I've seen plenty of STL files with 100 million triangles which is silly.

The sensor that detects the material type is inside the spool holder. That may be lost at this point. Look through your original packaging? As soon as you mechanically put the spool holder on the S5 you then plug a cable from the spool holder into the printer. But again, you can alternatively just choose the material type manually on the printer. If you lost the spool holder you can just put the spool on the table behind the printer. Often I pull the table away from the wall and put the spool on the floor. sometimes I put something around the spool (heavy boxes - like unopened boxes of filament) to keep it upright but if it falls over it usually feeds reasonably well. Or you can just unspool a few meters every hour or so.

Another option that might help is to lower the acceleration. In the motion control menu on the printer I think the acceleration is "5000" mm/s/s. You can lower that to 3000 mm/s/s and it will print a little slower but it is less likely to lose steps like in your photo. But ideally you should fix the printer and not work around it by lowering the acceleration. So try some oil. Also often you get that slipping in one axis due to a loose set screw in the pulleys. But I'll trust your conclusion that the problem is related to friction or weak stepper driver. Again, DON'T RUN THE PRINTER WITHOUT THE FAN COVER. There is one 3 pin part in particular that sticks up. That gets very hot and is usually the first component to self destruct.

Oh sorry! I missed this post. You should DM me after doing a post. Oh. You did. Okay this is a complicated subject. These probably put out slightly different amounts of max current. There is a tiny thing you can turn but DON'T TOUCH THAT! Moving it 1/10th of one millimeter is often enough to destroy the whole driver. I can see "A4988" in your photo. You can search ebay/amazon/etcetera for "pololu A4988" for a replacement. HOWEVER, you probably just need to lubricate things. Assuming this printer is a bit old - put one drop of oil on each of the 6 rods in the gantry. You can use any kind of mineral oil (not food oil). Such as "3-in-one" oil or "sewing machine" oil. Even engine oil but that's a thick oil. Better to use a thin oil. "baby oil" should work as well I would think. Push the head around when printer is not printing and feel the difference in X and Y resistance. You have to push pretty hard - maybe hard enough to slide the printer around on a table. But you can still do it with just 2 fingers pretty easily. One finger on each end of the thinner rods. Anyway I'm hoping you just have some excess resistance that couldn't be overcome by the stepper drivers that you swapped. I'm assuming that one had slightly higher current and that axis had slightly higher friction.

Just to clarify - I think I was wrong about needing "developer mode" because Smithy's tool will use the existing API for this particular feature (but needs ssh for some of the other features).