gr5

So there are something like 1000 profiles. Profiles are only good for exactly one combination of filament, printer model (e.g. S5 versus UM3) core type (e.g. AA 0.4, CC 0.6), and "options" as you call it (engineering, visual, draft, etc). For example just for 3 options 3 material types, the 4 printer types (um3,s3,s5,um2+c), and 5 core types (.25, .4, BB, CC.6, .8) that requires 3 X 3 X 4 X 5 or 180 profiles! And someone has to test all of these everytime a new version of cura comes out. So instead, just pick something close and if it's the wrong core size the ONLY thing you have to change is line width to match the nozzle size (all the line widths and set the wall thickness to be a multiple of the nozzle slze - that's it - don't change anything else). There are many more profiles for AA 0.4 so I usually always pick that core even if I'm using an AA 0.8. I just change the line width. So I need to know more but if you are printing with say XStrand PA6-GF, you can just use a print profile for generic PA6 (aka nylon) and use AA 0.4 core and there should hopefully be an engineering (and other) option. Make sure to set the line width for 0.6mm if you are using a CC 0.6 core. You will usually get a better result than if you go with the xstrand profile that is in the marketplace. Many of these profiles have bugs/issues. The more basic the profile and core, the less likely some "bug" (or some slightly off temperature or fan speed or whatever that can occasionally cause an issue).

For other people - leave the printer on for at least 3 minutes as sometimes it can take almost that long. If it has done nothing for more than 15 minutes there isn't much point to let it keep going and better to power cycle. There is an unbricking procedure but it is difficult and can take half a day if you haven't done it before. And requires special tools for the S5 to remove the bottom (easier I think on S3 and UM2+C). And the unbricking requires a uSD card.

So the latest S5 firmware, 7.0.1, now supports synchronizing materials from cura to the S5 printers (through Digital Factory). This firmware just came out I think yesterday. This is a new feature that only exists in 7.0.1 (and newer I assume if you are reading this in the future). To get it you have to select "LATEST" when updating firmware on the S5. I think you just connect to the printer from Cura - I think you don't have to send the print job to the printer or anything like that.

Sure. Just select the AA 0.4 core. Set line width to 0.6 and you are good to go. When you go to print it there will be a warning that your core doesn't match but just hit ignore. As far as I can tell the CC cores work just fine with any material.

20mm/sec seems crazy slow. Try the default speed and temperature and ignore my idea about slowing it down. Maybe the filament over cooks a bit and gets more viscous and the feeder starts grinding up the filament. I really don't know. Typically if for example you print ABS too slow it creates an obvious clog and then it takes a while to get it clean again. I haven't used breakaway filament so I don't know what things it might do.

Make sure the fan in the print head door is working (not the two side fans). It should be on when the cores are above 60C. Typical symptom of a broken fan is that 10 to 40 minutes into a print the core clogs. It could be grinding because it's printing too cold or too fast. Try raising the temp in the TUNE menu by 5C and try slowing the speed down to 80% either in the TUNE menu (which will slow everything) or just in the cura settings for the breakaway (select the tab for the breakaway and cut the speed in half or so - for example if the printing speed is 60mm/sec then try maybe 40mm/sec. There are about 7 printing speeds for each core so make sure you get them all.

What country are you shipping from? I recommend people only buy used printers that can physically be picked up in person. To avoid scams. We've had some scams here although my best guess is that this is legitimate.

It's not obvious because they are sort of hidden, but those screws go into nuts. Look inside your printer. Every screw goes into a nut. Your nuts fell out. You need to locate the nuts and stick them back in the slots before putting the screws back in. They are standard M3 (3mm metric) nuts. Standard thread (0.5mm thread pitch) (versus fine pitch). In the USA some hardware stores have metric nuts and some don't. But if you tilt your UM2 you might see the nuts sliding around in there. You UM2+ probably came with a green and black hex driver - much easier to use than an L shaped allen key.

lol! Yes, same for me. This firmware behavior is dangerous and can cause burns. This actually makes me handle the glass plate more, not less. Because I remove the glass plate and wrap it in a towel. Then I stick my bare hands directly on the aluminum over the sensor to try to speed the cooling up. I don't do this every time but I've done it maybe 30 times. The first time it happened I didn't realize it was trying to cool. I had put a towel over the glass to keep it warm while I waited for the core to cool. I had to wait a LONG time. It wasn't clear to me that it was waiting for the bed to cool. This messaging may have been from an older firmware, I'm not sure.

Another theory I just came up with: maybe the nozzle is hitting the bed hard and the Z stepper is skipping some steps. If that is happening it would make a pretty loud (but very brief) noise when the nozzle hits the bed at the start of the print. Maybe video the first few seconds of printing when things start moving.

OCTOPRINT! That's what I was thinking about! There was some octoprint settings that was messing people up. Oh - but that was the "timelapse" feature. This is something different. So nevermind. Yeah the gcode looks fine. Something with your printer. Maybe slice with a different slicer that works and look at the begining and remove/change gcodes until you figure out exactly what the problem is. My guess is something to do with bed leveling or compensation. Do you have multipoint bed compensation turned on? Try turning that off!

Your gcode looks fine by the way. It prints the first layer at z=0.1mm So it's something on the printer and I kind of vaguely think I know what it is. Some setting on the printer. But I'm getting old and can't quite remember. Do you have autolevel? Maybe turn that off to see what happens and level manually? I know it prints the first line correctly but still. Lots of things are happening at the start of the print.

@GregValiant - I need you. This seems so so familiar...

I was unable to open that 3mf file in Cura 4.12.1. Did you use a newer version of Cura than that? Are you sure you did "save profile"? Or did you do "save model"?? I need the entire profile.

It's 0.4mm (the hole size). It's a standard M6 thread: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000015736659.html You could actually use any e3dv6 style nozzle which is a HUGE amount of companies and products. Make sure: 1) it's 6mm thread (all e3dv6 is) 2) Hole is around 0.4mm (must match what you enter in cura for line width) 3) It's for 2.85 or 3mm filament (most e3dv6 nozzles are designed for 1.75mm filament) When you mount the new nozzle, it's important that the nozzle touches the threaded brass tube and not the aluminum block. Otherwise filament will leak through the threads. Ideally you unscrew the theaded brass tube, screw in the nozzle into the aluminum block tight, then tighten the brass tube until it touches the nozzle inside the block.

This sounds really familiar. Is this for a Creality printer? maybe @GregValiant knows the answer. Actually you should post the project. In cura do "file" "save as project" and post that file. It will contain the model and how you positioned the model and so on. Maybe the bottom 4mm of the model has walls too thin to print or maybe you have the "insert gcode at layer" plugin enabled or something else. There are too many things to check and it's easier if you just post the project file. That will also tell us what kind of printer you sliced for.

I'm guessing "too many triangles". How many triangles does it have? Or how big is the file size? There are 2 formats for STL files - one is about 50 bytes per triangle and the other is about 175 bytes per triangle. Anyway I would say 100MB is probably about the limit for a file size for an STL. Any larger than that and you probably have features too small to print. Here's one trick to reduce the triangles: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

I've had the jumper in there for many years and it seems fine. I was chatting with one of the cofounders in New York City at some point years ago, after I had done that jumper. He stared off into the distance for a bit and said he thought it should be fine. He said something like "that relay is a safety feature that we never really took advantage of". It's set up I think so that you can wire something into one of the connectors and tell the printer to cut the 24V but they never added any peripherals or anything to do this. If the printer detects a runaway temperature condition I think it does indeed open up that relay but it also turns everything off anyway so it is a safety feature but I it's only needed if one of the 3 heater mosfets shorts out and won't function properly anymore.

During bed leveling it cuts all power to heaters (bed and cores). When leveling is over it has to heat everything back up to temperature. While it is heating up, the plastic expands and some filament leaks out. But it should then start printing the skirt (or brim) and get connected to that instead of to your print. Could that be it? Also when it is finally ready to print it does an "unretract" because it retracts at the end of the previous print.

The second PCB is explained in detail in the mark2 upgrade explanation. It helps out with all the wiring and particularly to control 3 more fans on the second test head. I recommend you watch the video. It's really a fascinating upgrade from some really smart people. And it's "free" as they explain. https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/

It's for adding a second extruder to the UM2 printer. It's all the hardware you need for the mark2 project. Although you can ignore that PCB and some of the cables and the magnets and instead use it to turn your printer into a UM2+ but again the fans are useless.

Oh - and in this other thread I also show how I just bypassed K1. This jumper is still there on my printer, lol, years later. I forgot about it:

Yes! That's a likely issue! I though tit was only the Z switch but this could be the 24V supply which powers only the steppers and heaters. And the side fans. Nothing else - the display will work fine. Usually it's the relay (K1). more info here including a video:

It just so happens that I bought 3 of those and can tell you a lot about that product. It has a flaw. The side fans will not work. I forget the details but I think they are 5V fans and you need 12V fans. Maybe. I forget the details but expect to have to get fans. Other than that it seems to work quite well. I didn't use any of the 3 for myself but gave them to 3 other people (at cost - no profit) and all 3 said the kit was fine other than the fans.

yes as torgeir says - you should see the exact same voltages on either side of R111. The cap just filters out noise a little bit. It's probably not even needed. But in theory it could short. In practice - very very unlikely. Torgeir makes a very good point. Maybe the switch is read fine by the arduino and instead it's the z stepper that isn't moving (usually due to the stepper driver). Do you get to the menu system? Or does it lock up even before that point now? You should be able to home just the Z axis. Better firmware would be tinkerGnome's version found here. It has lots of more options: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1