gr5

@mrender - I didn't notice earlier but Ultimaker added a workaround to let your printer access digital factory. It's in the "status.ultimaker.com" area.

For those who haven't noticed!! There is a workaround to get digital factory working again. Posted above.

@mrender Please see this thread:

Well you could probably use an "olimex serial cable F". maybe. probably. Not sure if the computer on the um2+C has a serial console connection. But it probably does.

By default I think your CAD part feature (e.g. a wall) width must be 2X your line width as cura always does a circular pattern when filling in any solids in your model. The outer most pass is a loop. However if you check "print thin lines" in cura it will do down to about 1X your line width although it still makes 2 passes. There is a new BETA cura also known is "arachne" which you can download and try and that version is able to do only one pass but it may take a long long time to be released as it has been available for about a year and still not deemed good enough to be the latest official version. Most people who use the beta arachne version say it works fine. No problems.

This is a "major outage" !! There is a new issue with the certificates. Printers can't access digital factory. More information here: http://status.ultimaker.com/

Very nice @Josnoww. Does this work with all of S3, S5, UM3, UM2+C?

@ChaseFamous - when you lowered acceleration and jerk the bump in the corner got worse. That is exactly what I would expect. What happens is with the lower acceleration it takes longer to slow down and speed up going around the corner and so the higher pressure in the nozzle at that time means it over extrudes. Better to crank up acceleration and jerk and only lower speed: if the speed never slows down on the corner then the pressure in the nozzle is always constant and you don't get overextrusion in corners. However I would expect at least 3 of the corners to have that bump if it was an acceleration issue. Instead it's probably taking too long to change layers (which usually happens on an "infill" layer). Make sure "retract at layer change" is disabled as this can cause more delays where filament is coming out of the nozzle. Also make sure your Z speed is as fast as possible for your printer. Both in cura and in the firmware of the printer. @mccleary39 - I don't think you are having the same problem as chaseFamous only has one blob in the corner. Right? maybe you should start a new thread or at least post a photo of your issue. Both of you: ironing is a little tricky - neotko is the expert on this feature. Read all of his posts on this thread:

I would try it one more time (power it up again with the uSD card in there) however there may be errors on your flash drive. I recommend reading this detailed article I wrote about how to figure out why it isn't booting and how to repartition your flash drive to avoid the "bad spots". This has worked for quite a few people and I have updated this document dozens of times from feedback from various people. http://gr5.org/unbricking

In cura do "file" "save project" and then post that file here. The project file will contain your model and settings and printer settings and model position, scale, everything needed for us to do the same slicing that you are doing.

You probably should have started a new thread. This thread is only about when connecting to a printer through network. Anyway the crash report is probably also found in the log file. Look for the log file and read what is near the bottom. And post what is in the log file here. Here is where to find your log file: %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows), or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ubuntu/Linux)

I use mesh modifier and support blocker occasionally and they work great for me. Again - you are blocking the SURFACE of the model where the support touches. Not the volume where the support will be printed. There are fantastic videos on youtube for these features. I recommend those videos over anything I could type out as text. But try this for mesh modifier: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013370140-How-to-adjust-print-settings-of-a-part-of-my-model-in-Ultimaker-Cura And for support blocker: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012869379-How-to-block-support-generation-in-Ultimaker-Cura

There is the print profile which is all the settings. There are your overrides of the profile (your customized settigns). There is the filament/material profile and finally the machine profile (printer profile). It seems to me you should be editing the printer profiles, and not the material profiles. But I'm not sure. I never mess with any of those other than customized settings and again, I store the name of the printer in my project name so I store all that in project files. I would expect retraction settings to be in machine profile/settings. As non bowden machines need much less retraction. And the max speed varies per printer. In fact in cura you should be able to set the speed to 100 meters per second (100,000 mm/sec) and let the machine's firmware limit the speed and acceleration. As far as material flow - that seems like a bad idea. A long time ago the old version of cura had a packing ratio claiming that ABS shrunk more than PLA so that you needed more flow. However the volume of the filament is measured at the feeder where the filament is at room temperature. So it doesn't matter how much the material expands as long as it contracts again as it cools back to room temp. Right? I don't know - I don't print much ABS but that makes sense to me. If you are adjusting flow then the printer is probably defective or you are probably printing beyond the printer's abilities (too fast or nozzle too cold). But I can imagine it's really tough when you have many different printer types. At least for me I only have 3 types and I know them so well that I know when it's time to change the PTFE coupler and when the feeder needs fixing, etc.

I have 5 printers I use regularly and they are all a little different. 3 of them are um2go printers so I can save/set printing temp and flow rate on the printer itself. You can even dump all the material "profiles" for a given printer on to a USB card then edit the file on a desktop computer and reload the materials back into the printer. Then you can, for example, load "PLA-orange" and print away. Similarly if your generic 3d printer with Marlin always needs a little more flow (say 3%) you can mess with the steps/mm setting on the printer - up that by the same 3%. For the non um2 printers (e.g. S5) I do it all in Cura. Whenever I slice something I ALWAYS save the project (menu "file" "save project") along with the gcode file. When I need to slice something else (gee this is the same material as that orange PLA thing I printed last week on the S5 - I can use the same settings) I first open the project that is most similar (so it has the needed settings). But for 95% of prints I don't need to use any kind of custom settings.

I have a PTFE tube on one of my printers. It is MUCH more slippery. It is not excessively soft/flexible - if anything it is slightly more stiff. The one disadvantage is that you can't see the filament inside very well. You can't tell if it is cracked/broken or missing a chunk from the feeder or what the pattern looks like on the filament from the feeder. You can see if the filament is in there or not (as long as the filament isn't white or clear).

Cura has these 2 features. But they are different. There is something called "support blocker". It's on the left side of the screen. You drop 3d shapes/meshes (by default it creates cubes but you can do any shape) and you can move them, scale them (separately in all 3 axes) and place them over areas that shouldn't get support. This is confusing for some because you don't place it where the support is but where the surface is that needs support. It's not as easy as "just clicking" to remove supports but it's pretty easy. Cura and S3D went differently on being able to change slicing settings in certain areas. S3D does it by height alone. Cura is MUCH more adaptable as you can use any mesh. Any shape. And say "inside this shape change these settings" including things like infill density and about 100 other parameters. The problem: Cura won't let you change layer height as you can do that easily at a given height (S3D) but you can't do that within a single layer (Cura). This feature is also found on the left side of the screen or you can right click on a mesh and set it to be a "mesh modifier".

If you aren't using Digital Factory then I'm not sure there is any reason to update the firmware. If you have a strong need of some feature then I recommend getting the Olimiex-serial-F cable. You can take the cover off the bottom of the printer and hook up that cable. Make sure you can get a login prompt and if that's working then start the update process. You will get a stream of information from the update process which outputs lots of great, informative details about which step it is on and when it fails it then tries to fall back onto the existing version. Save the log and post it. Or just read it. Is it possible you just don't wait long enough? There is a step in one of the upgrades (lost track which one) where it updates all the material files to the a new internal format and this step can take quite a while - maybe 30 minutes? Not sure. Something like that. Another option is to try the "unbricking procedure" aka "system restore". It involves putting the latest version on a uSD card and putting that into the computer under your printer. But if you don't need any particular feature, I would just not worry about it.

My first thought is "no". If you are tight on money then you should really get a 3dsolex 0.4 ruby instead. But if you have "work" paying for this then just buy a new one. Cores are considered consumables (by Ultimaker) similar to filament. I mean how much does one core cost versus the filament you buy? But yes I suppose maybe you could fix this yourself. It looks like only the heater and sensor are broken? Hard to tell. Those happen to be the two most expensive parts (yes - more expensive than the nozzle I think). You could probably buy just those 2 parts from 3dsolex.com in Norway. Just email them - it's not in the store but you could buy those. Here is a video about taking apart Ultimaker cores: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln_tMz8Dwd0 MUCH MORE IMPORTANT QUESTION is how did this happen in the first place? If you don't know then it will happen again. Did you get a "head flood"? If so then you need to learn how to keep your parts from moving. Head floods usually happen when the part is wider than tall and it comes loose. Then it slides around like a hockey puck and all the filament can't go anywhere except up into the print head. On very rare occasions you can get a head flood if the print head door falls open. But usually it's that the part came loose. Learn more about how to get your particular filament type to stick to the bed better. Here is a (long, sorry) video about how to never ever have a part come loose again. But also read about your particular brand of filament: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k

Some thoughts: 1) You can certainly go to the scale tool in Cura, then uncheck the "uniform scaling" and then increase X by 0.2 or decrease Y by 0.2. This will probably work well for this part. But other cylinders of different diameters or placed on different locations on your bed may need different scaling. 2) One common cause of this kind of error is that the pulleys, which have a hole drilled through the center - have that hole slightly away from center. By maybe 0.2mm. That means the pulley wobbles a bit and the head, if driven at a constant velocity will actually speed up and slow down a little each time the pulley rotates. This error is less common on the UM3 and newer printers as Ultimaker no longer relies on 3rd parties to drill that center hole (I believe). Or perhaps they inspect each pulley now. Anyway the quality is much better than it was 7 years ago. 3) I looked at your part and the STL and I hope you rotate the part so the circle is flat on the bed!?? If not then that is your issue. 4) The problem may be caused by the print head wobbling a bit. Push the print head towards the center of the printer and then gently push the nozzle left/right/forward/back. Push almost hard enough for the steppers to move but not quite. Does it move more in one direction versus another? Sometimes the linear bearing inside the print head is a little loose. The one with the rod that passes from front to rear of printer.

You don't need to create 3 nozzles. You can do this with either "per object settings" or "mesh modifiers". You can google about both features. You need separate STL files for each area you want to have different infill and then you can either just click on each one and do "per object settings" and set the infill direction of you can have the meshes overlap where the largest mesh is the actual part and the smaller STL files (called meshes) modify the infill pattern (this is what I did below but it sounds like you can do per object settings since it sounds like you already have multiple STL files).

Oh. Well it's good to go through all the menus on the S5 just to see what is where. There's some good features hidden all around. I recommend unspooling several meters of filament and placing the spool on top of the unspooled filament. Unspool the amount you expect to need to use (cura can tell you how many meters your print will need in the bottom right corner - among other places).

Me too. I have 1.6GB and 44,000 files in that folder. Trying to clean up some space this morning and this was the second thing I found.

Please show a photo of what you mean. If you are talking about vertical holes (not horizontal holes) through your part then yes, it's normal and common for vertical holes to be about 0.5mm too small. This has to do with the fact that the plastic, while liquid, shrinks in the first few milliseconds and acts like snot or mucus and is pulled inwards while printing inside corners and holes. I add around 0.4 or 0.5mm to most vertical holes (regardless if it's a 2mm hole or a 30mm hole). I do this in CAD. Sometimes I need very tight tolerances. For those cases I add 0.3mm and then drill the whole out with a drill later (even if 20 holes it goes quick if they are all the same diameter). For holes that can be a little loose I usually add 0.5mm. For the rest I usually add 0.4mm to the diameter.

Keep in mind that it's easy to brick your machine when you do stuff like this. If there are syntax errors in any json file like this one above the machine will crash before it starts up the ssh daemon. So if you are going to do this be very cautious. Maybe buy the olimex serial F cable (to be able to get to the root console without needing ssh) or at least make sure you have a 4MB uSD card (which can be used to unbrick). Another good trick - instead of rebooting - try just restarting griffin systemctl restart griffin.printer systemctl status griffin.printer Second command makes sure griffin started okay and if not you still have time to fix the problem. If you restart the printer (power cycle) you may not be able to fix any typos.

Pictures would help. Maybe we'd get some ideas. I found variable infill (gradual infill steps) to be a good time saver - I can usually save 20% of print time with that feature. I only use it for parts that I will make over and over again as I keep tweaking it after each print until I get my prints really fast and also accurate. Also using a 0.8mm nozzle might be a good time saver. Or 0.6mm nozzle. It depends on the part.