gr5

So write it? Start with an existing plugin and it will be very little code that you need to add to the plugin. Maybe you have a friend who knows a little bit about programming - they don't need to know Python as this change is pretty minor. My Ultimaker Original fan wouldn't turn on until around 25%. So I've printed hours in this state where the fan speed is too slow to actually turn the fan. Never damaged my fan. This doesn't disprove your theory - it's still an interesting theory to me. But doing full power and then lowering to the new fan speed is not going to always spin up the fan. You might have to wait for the next layer where the fan speed is higher. Most printers use Marlin and Marlin has a feature that if you go from say 0% fan to 20% fan it does 100% fan first for just a short period (maybe 100ms) and then down to the 20%. But if you go from 19% to 20% many version of Marlin don't do that extra boost. But that's an easy firmware fix that I assume is in the main code of Marlin by now. Ultimaker printers since the UM3 (including S5 and S3 printers) will run just fine at 1% (probably even at 0.3% fan). This is not a firmware fix - this is a strangely "smart" fan with complicated electronics in it. Probably cheaper to make a fan with a tiny computer in it than without.

I'm guessing it's a memory problem. You might be able to fix your issue by reducing the number of triangles in your model. Is this your own model? What CAD did you use? Usually when you export to STL (or other mesh format) you can choose the resolution - try making that low. Also try closing other apps like chrome. Here's one quick way to lower the number of polygons: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab Anyway it could be something else. Please post the log file (go to "help" menu in cura). The log file stores a long history of errors so even though you may have to kill and restart cura it will be helpful. Maybe tell us what time the error occurred so we don't have to sift through days of non-failures. Also please post a project file. So we can repeat the crash. Do "file" "save project" and post that file. It will contain you model and settings and printer settings and which profile you used and filament and the position of every one of your models and so on.

I suspect the flash memory on your UM3 is getting old. You can get a new olimex board but first I'd try the standard unbricking procedure which involves a uSD card. Contact your reseller for the pdf instructions on how to unbrick your UM3/UM3ext. If the uSD card method doesn't work I have much more details on how to watch your Olimex Linux board boot up so you can see EXACTLY where the error lies. Then you can repair the problem with linux commands. Everything is explained in great detail here. I wrote it for the S5 but the UM3 has the same Olimex board with the same issues: http://gr5.org/unbricking/

I think this explains it reasonably well: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360020993859-Collaborate-distribute-parts-using-the-Digital-Library I haven't used the digital library but yes - almost surely if you had 5 private projects in your digital library you would have to delete one project before adding a new one. Without the digital library you can still save unlimited project files and put them on your own server or on a USB flash drive or whatever. Many people don't save their project but I *always* save my project file. Most people use "profiles" to save their settings but I don't use that - I use project files which save the meshes (STL files) and their positions and scaling and rotations and your printer (machine) settings and which profile you used and your settings overrides and material profiles - all into one project file. Very useful if I want to print something new with the same or similar settings. In Cura, a project file can also have STL/meshes to define special regions of your part such as making denser infill in a certain region. Or for a 3D region to *not* have support ("don't put support here"). Or for dual color prints you need at least two meshes - one for each color. However in the digital library they *might* be talking about projects differently. I suspect not. Project files are really just zip files so you can put almost anything in a project file including documentation and photos. They are just limiting you to 20 files in there total. I assume.

Those instructions are good but 2 hours is not enough. You need more like 40 hours. To speed things up, look at your print in cura and see how many meters of PVA you need. Then uncoil that man meters (plus one for the bowden) of filament and without cutting the filament, place the unspooled PVA directly on the glass. Then place the remaining spool on top. Cover with a towel. Ideally you want many cm of insulation. Set the heated bed to 60C. Wait about 4 hours like that. After 4 hours it should be dry enough.

You have to keep your PVA very dry. Don't leave it on the back of the printer. If you have the material station then you don't have to worry but if you don't then you want to put it in a sealed bag with a cup or two of dessicant when you aren't printing. But that PVA looks okay to me (it's hard to tell but the darker the pva (more transparent) the better and yours looks darkish).

That's mostly normal. You should still get a great print despite all that extra PVA scattered around your print. Did the printer actually stop early? What was the message exactly?

It's called a "tower". You can disable it but I don't recommend it. Well it depends how pretty you want your part to be. If you disable the tower the quality of the part will be worse. The inactive nozzle always leaks a little and there is like a tiny sausage hanging from it. When that nozzle is once again active, it will stick/glue that tiny sausage onto your print somewhere. The tower prevents this. You can also control the location of the tower. Just search for "tower" in the cura settings to see all your options.

I'm away from home but hundreds of other posts in this forum explain where to find cura.log.

@CosmicCollin799 please post your log file.

Nice!!! I'm glad.

@pdihawk - chewed up filament can be caused by dozens of very different issues. For one thing it can be caused by the feeder or the hot end. If the hot end is underextruding the feeder is fighting hard and doing it's best and chewing up the filament a little bit but at some point it gets out of control and bites out a circular chunk and nothing comes out. So it can be either end. Usually it's the print core. But it could be your feeder is at the wrong tension. Look at both feeders and the tension indicator should be in the middle for PLA. If the tension is too low it can slip more and chew up the filament. It could also be that you ran CF filament through feeder 2 but that is unlikely. CF filament can smooth down the tiny pyramids that grip the filament. More likely it's something about the nozzle. I'd try some cold pulls - you can do these from the front panel control on the printer. It will give you instructions. Another thing to try is to just change out the print core. This is the solution that takes the least amount of time and effort (but the most money). Ultimaker considers print cores a "consumable" just like filament. Even if you bought one core every 5 spools of filament it wouldn't be all that significant of a cost.

It's working for me now also.

Disabling Active leveling (auto leveling) Okay - if you screw this up you can "brick" your machine and have to restore it using the uSD process (or using an olimex serial F cable) so make sure you have purchased a uSD card preferably 4GB but up to 32GB should work (no larger - unconfirmed rumors say no larger than 32GB). But it sounds like you are the type of person who can handle the disabling of active levelling. Also note every time you upgrade the firmware you will have to do this again to disable active leveling: Quick answer: But to edit that file you have to telnet into the machine. First put your S5 into developer mode - it's in the menus on the printer. Your machine needs to be on your network (wifi or ethernet) if it isn't already. Once it's on the network it will show the IP address at the top of the main screen. Next you need ssh which is built into linux and Macintosh terminal but not windows. For windows I recommend putty: https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html In putty you don't type the "ssh" part but just put the ultimaker@111.222.333.444 part and click "open". ssh ultimaker@1.2.3.4 (don't enter 1.2.3.4 - enter the ip address listed on your UM3) username/password: root/ultimaker use "cd" command to get to the right folder (mentioned above). If you aren't familiar with cd you really should not be doing this as you can brick your printer. I forget which editor the printer has but I think it has the nano editor: cd /usr/share/griffin/griffin/printer/procedures/pre_and_post_print/auto_bed_level_adjust nano alignZAxisProcedure.py After editing, do CTRL+x to exit the editor and save. Follow the directions (Y to save or N to cancel then just hit return to accept the accepted file name). Check your edits using "more" or "less" command. Hopefully you know how to use those. If not google one of them (how to use "more" in linux). Restart your printer - you can do that from command prompt: shutdown -r now Or just power it off and on again which is slightly more jarring for the printer but hey we do it every day, right?

The log file on the S5 contains the exact measurements. It has been about a year so I forget them at this moment but it's something like this (but my numbers may be wrong - this is my best memory): The right nozzle should be 1.5mm lower than the left when it's down. If this value (the difference between the 2 nozzle heights) is not exactly 1.5mm it's okay but must be within +/- 0.5mm. 1) I would just disable active leveling. More on this later in next post. 2) I would look at these numbers to see if it's off by a tiny tiny bit (say 0.1mm) and in which direction. It could be your nozzles are 0.45mm different in height and you are triggering this error somewhat randomly. Or it could be that the flex plate is somehow causing a huge difference (say 5mm instead 1.5mm). Seeing the value in the log file can be helpful. This value is stored for many many print hours (days) so even a few days later you should be able to get this out of the log files on the printer. 3) One thing (only one) you need to understand about active leveling is that it measures the capacitance between the metal plate in the bottom of the print head and the metal plate under the glass. The farther this distance is, the less accurate active leveling gets. Adding a second metal plate between these two can affect the capacitance also. Not sure if this matters. Watching the active leveling process is revealing. It should move the bed up slowly and stop just after the nozzle touches (the process likes to go beyond touching a bit and that way it can more accurately find the moment things touched (capacitance stopped changing). If you've watched it many times you can see when there is a failure (caused by example by a loose wire or electromagnetic noise): it will either stop moving down long before it touches the bed or long after it has started touching the bed. 4) Active leveling is performed with the nozzles hot because otherwise some bit of hard plastic on the tip of the nozzle will confuse it. This means you should really be using it only on a surface that can handle 250C and many cant.

I tried it also. I had to log in. Then it gave me the same message you got.

Did you do a manual calibration? I haven't done active leveling with my UM3 so I forget what it does exactly but if you manually level you need to make sure both nozzles are the exact same height in the manual procedure. So the exact same amount of friction on the calibration card. I'm not sure if active leveling levels the second nozzle - it's been too many years since I've done that.

Do you have the S3 or the UM3 as your other post mentions the S3.

This is a complicated subject! The .3mf file does not get sent to the printer. You should be sending ufp or gcode file. (ufp can be renamed to zip and if you look inside there is a gcode file in there). A 3mf file can either just hold a model or if you saved it from within cura using "file" "save project" then it indeeds hold all your settings (and you STL file and your machine config and your profile chosen and much more but it doesn't store the results of the slicing - just everything you set up the moment before you slice). The gcode file is meant to be computer and also human readable so you can read it with any text editor. Among the gcodes is one that sets the build plate temp and one (actually typically 6 to 10) that sets the fan speed. After you slice and save the sliced file, open it up and search for M140 and M190 - either of those will set the bed temp. Also search for M106 which sets your fan speed but the value isn't in percent - it's a number from 0 to 255 so: M106 255 is 100% fan and M106 S0 is 0% speed. HOWEVER, your confusion is probably from the cura settings. Cura has over 500 settings and it has 10 or so for the fan speeds. You have to look at all of them to fully understand. By default Cura does 0% fan on the bottom most layer and then increases that up to your goal fan speed (not sure what it's called in Cura) linearly over several layers (typically 5). So most likely you have a M106 S0 at the start of your first layer (by the way there are lots of comments in the gcode including comments that mention the layer number - you should really try reading some gcode some time). If you manually set the fan to say 5%, when it starts the second layer there is likely another gcode to set the fan to some other value, say M106 S25 (10% fan). That will OVERRIDE what you set. The printer just does what you tell it. If the gcode tells it one thing then you tell it something else the printer just follows the most recent instruction. Similarly with the heated bed - there may be several cura settings.

He means the REST API. I added to title. For those that don't know, Swagger is a debugging tool to document and debug RESTful interfaces. @nallath - did anything change in the latest update related to the REST API? @ArnoG - are you absolutely sure you are using the printer the exact same way? Maybe you need to get a new access ID? (I haven't tried the API so I don't remember exactly how the access works but seem to remember you have to get some kind of access token and you may need to do that again after the upgrade). Maybe you checked some box differently in Swagger (I've done that - where it seems like "it was just working yesterday" but I forgot to (or accidentally) changed something without noticing. Do you have a second printer so you can have one printer at the older version to be sure? It is possible to downgrade the firmware.

First step is to figure out if you are slipping on the X or the Y. Most likely it's one of two things: 1) Friction has increased over time. Try cleaning the 6 rods in your gantry with some WD40, then removing as much of that as possible and applying a drop of light oil to all 6 axes and moving the head around. Before you start notice how much friction it takes to push the head around and again after you are done. For example can you slide the printer around the table just by pushing the head? Can you push the head with just two pinkie fingers one on each block opposite the head? 2) loose set screws. As mentioned above. This is the most common cause of this problem but the slips tend to be more sudden (all happening on one layer). You only have to tighten the screws on the slipping layer and it's usually the setscrew on the pulley that is on the stepper motor.

@mrcgomes - Often I have seen people on this forum where the upgrade gets stuck (nothing after 30 minutes) but if they power off and on again it often recovers the second or third time you power on. I have no idea why.

Try the other AA core. It's usually the core and you should have an extra. That's the first debugging step. Sometimes (rare on the S5) it can be the cable that goes into the print head. It's trivial to remove the rear 2 screws on the print head - they are very long. Access them from above. Once removed, the rear half of the print head comes off easily. Inside is a connector. Make sure the connector is seated well. Don't try to pull the connector out without watching a video about it first. fbrc8.com and ultimaker have nice videos about how to access this connector.

Well those guys are pretty busy but I'll try to get their attention. This is more of a user forum but they answer questions like this every day so your question is probably already answered. It's easier for them to answer a question like this once and have the hundreds of other people who have the same problem just google for the answer. They are a small team and are aware of many IOS issues and working on them but I assume management is constantly pushing for new features. They spoke about a few IOS problems that they know they can't fix. More related to hardware and video drivers than related to Cura. If you own an Ultimaker printer you can try the support path. I may be clueless about Mac issues but I read most of the posts so I have these vague memories. I think it would help them if you told us what hardware you have as this could be a known issue. @nallath @ghostkeeper @ahoeben - any ideas? log file not created for this user so he can't post it.

Well you really have to do it to one of your teflon parts. Ultimaker considers the teflon an "expendable" like filament. The expect you to buy a new one with maybe every 3rd order of filament? I'm not sure what they expect. Because it is expendable, most companies (think inkjet printers) would charge extra but Ultimaker does the opposite and sells these at a very reasonable price. Anyway I would definitely cut the teflon on one of these. Carefully. With a razor blade style knife. I would do it to the used teflon because you will mostly be throwing away the "bad" part of the used teflon. The teflon stays mostly new except for the hot end.