gr5

If you don't mind losing all saved profiles then try cleaning those all out. What you do is go to "help" and locate your configuration folder/folders and delete everything in there. I can never remember if you need to delete things in one folder or two so I'd just delete in both maybe? There will be separate folders for each version of cura you have installed (I'm not talking about the code in c:/program files/, I'm talking about folders that are created when you first launch cura). Anyway exit cura, delete all those folders, restart cura and it will recreate those folders from scratch. This should fix any problems that occurred when you first saved that profile. Personally I don't customize profiles. I use a different process - I save *project* files instead. As far as I can tell it leads to much less headaches and I do it for the exact same reason that people use profiles (to save my custom settings - and different settings for different types of prints and materials and such).

This problem is rare on the S5 but common on 3d printers in general and has about 30 (very different) possible causes. So the first thing is to figure out if the problem is at the feeder or the hot end. I'm guessing the hot end (the core). So try a different core. Your printer should have come with two AA 0.4 and one BB 0.4 cores so swap the AA 0.4 cores. Alternatively move the core to the right and slot so that you are using the right hand feeder and if it suddenly works great than the problem is with the left hand feeder. I'm guessing there is a clog or partial clog in your nozzle. Not too hard to fix with a few cold pulls. Cold pulls are done from the menu system on the S5. Just to give you an idea - here is a post with the list of all the things that can cause underextrusion (which causes ground up filament at the feeder) but for a UM3 since the S5 is easier to diagnose and more reliable (I mean just swap cores). Actually glancing at that list another issue is printing too fast. That can cause underextrusion/grinding as well. It might help to read the whole list briefly and something might jump out at you - for example if your air temp is 90F/30C.

Did you read this thread/topic from the start - at page 1? There are several possibilities that cause the problem (I think 3 solutions are discussed above?) and I *think* everyone fixed their problem. But I'm not certain. My first thought was the same as ultiarjan (who I think was the first person to reply).

Blue tape works great. Lower the heat even more or just turn it off. The most important thing though is to wash the painters tape with isopropyl alcohol. This removes the non-stick wax coating that keeps the tape from sticking to itself. And keeps parts from sticking very well to the tape. Just a few seconds with rubbing alcohol is all you need. Just a single tissue, with maybe a teaspoon of IPA will clean the whole S3 print bed.

Yes. You got it. Combing is a feature to speed up printing. It can make a big difference. But it can also lower quality. Normally combing moves do not retract (although there is a "max combing distance with no retract" feature to fix that). zhop only happens on retractions. So A implies B implies C therefore A implies C (combing means no zhop). By the way, zhop is only recommended for delta printers and 99.9% of the printers out there are not delta printers so you might get ugly horizontal lines if you have zhop on. Or maybe not. Or maybe you will get them in a few months when your z screws get dirty. yes the print head can slam (hard) into the edge (or infill) particularly on overhangs like the bow of benchy. But so what. If you have everything figured out correctly (like excellent bed adhesion) that won't be a problem.

It's very common for tempered glass to be higher in the center. It has to do with how tempered glass is made. Because of the way things are leveled this usually means you get low spots in the rear two corners. 1) the amount of force needed to bend the glass flat is tiny. So you could probably put some sticky tape in the middle under the glass to pull it down - something that can handle 110C. Then put shims around the outer edge particularly in the rear two corners. Shims could be washers for example. Or sheets of paper. Or you could bend the rear two corners of the aluminum bed up. I did this on my printer only to later realize I could have easily broken the heater traces as they are right under that. 2) Or you can contact your reseller and try to get flatter glass. I would measure your glass very carefully with a metal straight edge and tell them how bad it is. Otherwise they could send you 5 glass beds that are all worse than what you have now. 3) But I don't understand what the big deal is. Your bottom layer looks fantastic. Yes, part of it looks different but I assume you will have at least one more layer and so that "differentness" will go away after a few layers. Is your part warping off the bed? If so then there are other simpler fixes I can talk about.

Yes. Definitely odd.

Maybe follow that with an M1 (or M0?) which should pause the print. If it prints the gcode and gets to the end, some firmwares will turn everything off after they finish "printing".

What kind of printer is it? Some Marlin preheat features have a timeout. Some don't. By the way, the printer is a great controlled heat box. You can rise bread (i've done that), make yogurt, dry out filament, dry out dessicant, and many other things that need an accurate temperature. Cover the "experiment" with thick amounts of towels or blankets.

I figured a cura expert would have looked at this by now. Unfortunately not. Well this line stands out a little bit: Unable to create a folder for scripts: C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.9.1\resources\scripts Try running Cura as admin. Right click on the launching icon for cura and there should be a "run as administrator" option. It's just a warning (not an error) but could be an indication of the problem (cura can't write to it's own folder). Or maybe not an issue. Also try disabling firewalls and similar things (virus checkers) - at least to see if that's related. Not a permanent solution of course. Just a test.

I get the same thing. I've printed at 500mm/sec just fine but never tried to retract that fast. You must have a very fast extruder? I'm not sure where this value is coded.

Wait - make sure "remove all holes" is unchecked in mesh fixes. In fact make sure all the mesh fixes are default. When I do "remove all holes" I get something similar to what you describe. Also check the Z value position for your part. Did you lift if up off the table on purpose? I'm guessing yes. It's normally zero but you can lift it up a few mm when printing in your "bowl" orientation to get consistent support. Click on the part, select the MOVE tool on the far left of cura and look at the Z value. Normally it's always zero.

There's nothing wrong with your STL file. It's water tight. Normals look good. And it slices just fine for me in either orientation. Please attach your project file - it will contain your STL, your machine (printer) settings, filament settings, and all your hundreds of cura settings. Do menu commands "file" "save project" and post that file.

Or have the extrusion pause after a minute with a continue button to make sure the user hasn't left the room. Or cooling a bit and/or slowing extrusion to 1/10th speed (if you are worried about over cooking the filament).

Location for cura log file depending on your operating system: %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows), or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ubuntu/Linux)

Please post the cura log file. Go to "help" to see the log file location.

Actually maybe now I'm thinking you want your part to be 99% hollow? If so then you only have half the walls. Your CAD needs to show the outer wall (which it does) and then the inner walls which look almost identical to the outer walls but are inwards a bit (by your desired wall thickness). Also you need to add connecting walls between the inner and outer walls. Right now all the walls are infinitely thin.

Even in cura preview I can see your holes have no walls to them. It's hard to explain in words. I assume you want the holes to be cylindrical. But in your STL they are not. Your holes need walls to them to explain their shape. A human such as myself can guess that you want cylindrical holes like created by a drill bit. But in your model they could be cone shaped holes or curvy holes or whatever. In your model they are not proper holes with walls. What cad software did you use?

There's confusing between "tightening a belt" and "tightening a set screw on a pulley". You want to tighten the set screws that keep the pulley from slipping. But again - it could be that the stepper just can't move all the wait of the print bed and you need to lower the acceleration. Very easy to do in the menu system on the printer. If it's at say 1000mm/sec/sec then try 500mm/sec/sec. Just cut the existing acceleration in half and see what happens. Also maybe ask other people with the same printer what they set the Y acceleration to.

This is commonly caused if you select a 3mm filament for a 1.75mm printer. Check that the filement settings specify 1.75mm filament. I'm talking about in Cura. Cura has machine (printer) settings, filament settings, slicing settings.

Every print core is tested by printing a particular calibration print designed to test the core itself. They can detect things like the sensor being inaccurate, heater not working, other electronic errors, clogged or partially clogged nozzle, leaks, and probably more. If there were no indications that the core was used that wold be a red flag.

I created a new topic for you as your post was off topic for where you posted. You don't want to tighten the belt - if anything that could make layer shifting worse. Instead you want to tighten the set screws on the pulleys. tighten the hell out of those. Usually it's the pulley on the stepper itself. What is happening is called a layer shift and can be caused by missing steps on your stepper (quite likely) or a loose pulley (also quite likely). You can figure out which by using a sharpie to mark the shaft of the stepper and the pulley to see if it moves over time during a print that has major layer shifting (like the picture above). If it's losing steps then you need to reduce friction or lower the acceleration for the axis that is slipping. Maybe add a drop of oil or something to the bearings/rods. What kind of printer is this? Is this the Y axis? Does your printer have a moving print bed? What is the acceleration for that axis? It's set on the printer itself - not in cura although cura can possibly also set the acceleration but different printer types use different commands to set this parameter so I'd do it on the printer, not in cura.

Thanks for making the world a better place!

Are you using octoprint? If so I think you have the setting "octolapse" enabled. Disable that.

No, sorry. Prusa printer firmware can do that (and Ultimaker 2 with tinker firmware) but not Ultimaker S5.