gr5

For others - there was a nice photo of a saucepan with a 3d printed handle above. I saw it but now the picture has been taken down (unfortunately).

@adi_s - I disagree - I don't think you found any bugs yet. Just maybe the language used in the gui is confusing. Maybe you found a bug or two but if so then I don't understand. I think you are asking for a new feature: "create supports that support the model but fit within this mesh". That feature doesn't exist yet in Cura.

USB makes complete sense. It's looking for a 3d printer on all the USB ports. Sometimes I think cura has too many features. You are going to have to unplug and plug in each USB device to figure it out I think. It's possible that the "bad" device has to be connected when you first start cura and if you connect it later cura might not notice. Not sure.

If you level too low or too high it won't print at first. While it's printing the first layer push up and then push down on the print bed. Usually you can exert enough force to move it the 0.1mm or so you need to do to see a difference. You want it squished quite a bit. If it's squished so much that it's transparent then it will stick too well so that's a little too much. If it comes out like a string (rounder - not flattened at all) then it won't stick at all and may just end up all over the nozzle. Anyway that means the nozzle is too far from the bed. Perfect high will squish the filament quite a bit but not so much that it's transparent. Like a pancake.

Also try smaller line widths. Usually you can go down to 75% of nozzle diameter without losing much quality (barely noticable). So if you have a 0.4mm nozzle then try 0.3mm for line width. If that slices then increase that until it stops and go back to the max possible line width that still slices okay.

Well you could try the new alpha version of cura which has some new "thin wall" features but the only person I know who tried it said his thin walls were no better in alpha. Instead try the burtoogle version of cura which I personally find does really well with thin walls. Also note that these might look a little better in real life than in PREVIEW mode (just a little). https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases

Oh it could be that the walls of those nozzles is too thin to print. Try setting the line width to 0.1mm to see if that helps and if it does then check "print thin walls". Although I don't think this is the issue as it wouldn't lower the model - it would just skip some layers.

Please post your project. Do "file" "save..." and post here the resulting file. It will contain the model, your machine settings, your profile, your settings overrides, how you positioned the model, etc.

I strongly suggest you guys create a github account (it's free) if you don't already have one and create an "issue" here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues All issues are at least read by the cura team. Not all forum posts are.

There's two possibilities: 1) Something wrong with the model. 2) Z setting isn't at zero. #2 is trivial to fix. Click on the model and on the left side there are some tools - click on the move tool and it shows the position of the model in x,y,z. Make sure z is zero. #1 - more likely the problem. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so... netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Here's another service - drag and drop mesh repair service: https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php Some people recommend tinkercad - it's free - you import your stl into tinkercad and then export it to a new stl and tinkercad will fix many issues.

The rods through the head definitely look crooked and that's easy to fix but I'm guessing the 4 rods around the edge are also not perpendicular? They are cut off in the photo. If it's on the 2 rods through the head - well either way - slide the head to the left then right side and see if the sliding blocks at the front and back of the printer reach the ends of travel at the same time. Similarly with the Y axis movement. If they don't meet at the same time and if the only thing crooked is these 2 through the head then it's easy to fix - loosen any 2 (of 4) of the set screws on the long belts for any one axis. Make things perpendicular and tighten again. However if the problem as I suspect is that your whole printer is crooked - well contact your reseller immediately. Some people have fixed this by just bending it back again. Put the whole printer diagonally into a vice of some sort and squeeze it back. Most don't do this but you could try loosening all the frame screws first just a little and tightening after. This might not be a good idea if the top plate is crooked as well. As it probably is. Some people replace the top plate (and also loosen the screws down the sides). Talk to your reseller. Personally I'd try to bend it back myself. I don't want my printer going through the delivery trucks more than necessary.

Well if you keep it to yourself you won't make any money either. If you publish it, other programmers might use it and submit "pull requests" which are code changes you can accept or not. Not likely but quite possible. github is usually more about making the world a better place versus making money. Regarding learning github - well it's not so bad. And you get free backups and version control so you can trivially see every change you ever made - it shows you easily what line(s) of code you changed. If your house burns down, the code is still backed up. It also shows your ugly code to the world which can be embarrassing. 🙂 And it's free. Personally I love git and I love github. So easy. Whether you are writing an novel, creating a cad model, or writing software, it's great to have a nice versioning system with backups and it just takes a click or two to update.

Oh yeah. Sanding. 🙂 Sanding/ironing/smoothing. All the same thing.

I'm not sure as I don't have one but from what I've read, there's no way to do this directly - you have to "print" a job with the material or something like that? Not sure. @Smithy has one I think? @Dim3nsioneer should know this as well. Do you use DF (digital factory)? Or do you print directly to the local IP address of your S5? I think either of those will send the material over. A final choice might be to just select a generic material like Nylon and when the printer complains that you have the wrong material loaded just override that? I'm not sure - that works without the MS but not sure if that works with the MS.

I don't know for sure - this is a feature I noticed more than use or understand. I just know broadly how cura works and so that's my guess. I don't think you actually have to change the name necessarily but that will help you distinguish your machines - if the names are the same it will be tough to tell them apart. I was hoping one of you who cares would test this out and see. Personally I don't mess with machine settings as the ones that come from the manufacturer created good working machine profiles.

I strongly suggest you guys create a github account (it's free) if you don't already have one and create an "issue" here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues All issues are at least read by the cura team. Not all forum posts are. After one of you posts there, post back here so all of you can pile on.

You know where to find the older versions already, right? I read on the forums about some change in the installer where older versions of ios don't work with newer versions of cura or something but I forget. But the issue was in 2020 so try a version from 2019. Cura has been quite excellent for a few years so going back a year will give you an excellent version with plenty of features. Also there are some Mac issues solved on this thread (ignore the title of the thread - things went off topic)

Shippers can be vicious and bend a nice cubic S5 into a parallelogram shape. I swear they have elephants sit on every other package but place the box on one edge first such that there are no longer 90 degree corners. Does all 4 feet of the printer touch a flat surface? or does your printer rock? If you look down on the top of the printer, are the 4 outer rods perpendicular or parallelogram shape? I'm guessing parallelogram shape as this is a common problem due to shippers abuse. I assure you that all the ones leaving the factory are fine. First diagnose the problem, then I have suggestions. Maybe show some pictures of the problem as I could be completely wrong about the problem. In the pictures say which side of the part is down when printed.

Currently only Ultimaker filaments have the RFID that allows the MS to automatically detect filament type. But don't worry - just put it in and you can tell the MS that it's novamid manually. There should be many filament types that you can scroll through and choose manually. If Novamid isn't on the list yet there is a way to sync up the materials that you added in cura to be known to your S5 pro bundle. I'm not sure exactly how to do that but I think if you tell the printer to print this part over the network it will also transmit the new filament type and then it should complain that it doesn't see the right kind of material and hopefully you can choose Novamid at that point.

It's a tradeoff between quality and speed. Usually if I want to print "fast" I don't increase print speed but instead increase layer height and nozzle size. This prints a faster volume of plastic per second without the print head moving faster. Highest quality I do is at 25mm/sec. I usually print at 35mm/sec. I've printed at 300mm/sec (really - it works) but when you go above a certain speed you have to worry about underextrusion. PLA is more viscous (thicker) at lower temps and it gets harder for the feeder to attain the forces necessary. S3 can push with about 3x the power needed for the table below. So you should just barely be able to print 3x below speeds for .4 nozzle and .2 layer or 6x these speeds if .1 layer but don't push it so hard! Try thicker layers instead. Also note that Cura has about 7 printing speeds (and some non-printing speeds) and you need to check them all. I also recommend that all 7 or so printing speeds be the same. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C A 0.6mm nozzle can print at about double the volume of plastic per second and a 0.8 can print 4X the volume of a 0.4 nozzle. Again - you get the best qulaity if you do your speed increase using thicker layer heights and without increasing print head speed.

support spacing is controlled in CAD and/or meshmixer. not cura. If cura generates it's own support with it's own algorithms - then yes you turn on the support features and you can set things like support gaps in x,y,z. But the feature you were using was intended to *remove* support from areas other than the shape. You can add shapes to cura that can either block support. Or exclude support outside the volume. but since you are designing support in other software you need to disable all cura support features including the "per object" support features.

@GregValiant - that's great. Have you made your code open source and put it on github by any chance?

Pay attention to the "smoothing" features as well - there's a guy who makes hundreds of things per day that look like what you are printing. He invented smoothing. He is neotko on the forum but doesn't post much anymore. Anything he says about smoothing (he calls it ironing I think) is informational gold. gold.

So it isn't exactly crashing - it's just slow. "just". Definitely shut off kaspersky completey - 100% off - and try it once without kaspersky running. I remember something about that from past posts. How many megabytes is the STL you sliced? Did you install cura on a network drive? So there have been issues with cura slowing to a crawl due to - I forget what exactly but I think maybe: searching through USB devices searching through online printers searching through networked drives (dropbox? NAS drives?) Try disconnecting your network cable and then launching cura - see if that helps. In google type "site:ultimaker.com cura slow". The "site:" will only give you answers from the ultimaker web site which is ideal. There have been other people where cura was too slow to use and they got things figured out. Let me know if you tried: 1) kaspersky 2) network 3)size of stl 4) installation disk

I misunderstood. locate the log file and post it here. Also look at it - it may have clues towards the end. On my windows10 computer it is here: C:\Users\gr5\AppData\Roaming\cura\4.8 On linux is here: /home/gr5/.local/share/cura/master %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows), or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ubuntu/Linux)