gr5

If you have a volt meter, measure the resistance on all your cores on the left two pads. They should measure I believe around 24 ohms. If it's much higher resistance for one core then you may have one bad core. If they all measure the same then the problem is with your printer. There is a connector in the top of the print head - remove the two very long screws in the back of the print head and then you can remove the rear half of the top cover. Inside is a connector. Try pushing it back down. Then try heating just one core (while it's all apart) and time it and you may find it heats much faster.

I don't know the answer. Maybe someone else does. But what filament are you printing? PLA?

UM seems to recommend no prime tower. It works pretty well without it. I personally like the prime tower for most prints with pva but I know many who get great results without it. The biggest problem is it might fall over. So if it's a print taller than 5cm make the tower bigger and also move it away from the corner (where parts don't stick so well because the glass tends to bend down - not a problem on S5 with multi-point leveling).

In general, more fan is better with pla. But an asymmetrical fan situation will create asymmetrical results.

I'm not sure what you are asking. You have to download and install Cura which will take your model and slice it to create a ufp file. A ufp file is really a zip file (renamed to ufp I think) that contains the gcode and also a picture of what your part is supposed to look like. Or you can just print over the network if you have the printer hooked up to your network. But in either case you need cura to create the ufp file.

Be very careful with PVA and CPE/PET/PETG/CPE+ as that combination can tear out chunks of glass because it sticks too well. The safest solution is probably to use the glue stick so the layer of PVA is very thick. Or use no glue at all. using an extremely thin layer of pva can put some little holes in your glass (typically the size of a grain of rice but sometimes 10mm across).

I would put the old thermistor back in there. There are probably a dozen differen types of "100K thermister". They all have very different tables that convert resistance to temperature. Do you still have the 4.7K resistor installed? Maybe that got burned out. When everything is hooked up, what is the actual voltage on either side of the 4.7K resistor? There should be a voltage divider with the 4.7K resistor and the 100K resistor. So if one is 4.7K and the other is 100K then the 5V should get divided (well multiplied really) by ratio R1/(R1+R2) (not sure which is which and too lazy to check schematic, sorry). That means either 0.22V or 4.77V assuming the thermistor is 100K ohms when you take the measurement.

Oh wait. It *is* in the file menu after you click "Prepare". The difference is that auto-slice is disabled by default with the newer version of Cura. You can re-enable auto slicing if you want. It's in the preferences somewhere.

It's the button in the bottom right corner. If it says "Prepare" then you have to hit that first. There is a dropdown next to the button. Change it to "Save to File". Then click on the button itself. It will do a "save as...". Yes, I know it's weird. I don't know why it's not in the file menu.

Covering your printer shouldn't be a major effort. Some saran wrap for the front and a garbage bag over the top will do it. It will be ugly but it's a start and it works.

Make sure the rear fan - the 3rd fan - is working. What you describe is exactly what you expect if the 3rd fan isn't spinning. Also if you have a lot of retractions - then the filament grinds when you get to the part that has hundreds of retractions. So that might also agree with what you see. Here is my complete list of UM2 causes for underextrusion. Some of them are partial underextrusion but partial underextrusion - if heavy - can cause the filament to grind and then cause a failure (even if the nozzle is fine). As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. Simpler cold pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg ? Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem. 21) Firmware settings - for example UM2+ firmware on UM2 or vice versa will cause 2X over extrusion or 2X underextrusion. Downgrading or changing firmware can mess up steps/mm and other settings - so if you updated firmware and then problems started then do a "reset to factory settigns" which corrects all the steps/mm values. 22) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3). 23) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 24) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 25) Other feeder issues. You can test the feeder by putting the filament only part way down the bowden and with the feeder electrically turned on (or moving) pull very hard on the filament until it slips. You should be able to pull with about 5kg or 10 pounds of force before it slips. 4kg is acceptable. 2kg is a problem. If the stepper motor isn't engaged you can try going into the move menu. After a minute or so power is removed again from the feeder stepper.

Tensile strength of the strongest nylon's I've seen is 55mpa. Glass is typically 50mpa. So how do you get xstrand with nylon and glass to be 100 mpa (my own tests with xstrand GF30PA6 yielded 80mpa which is still > 55)? Is it a special glass that is stronger than typical window glass?

Realize that you can experiment on the fly. While it's printing the bottom layer, go into TUNE menu and set the flow to 50%. Then increase/decrease from there. It may take 10 lines drawn before the feed rate changes. If you listen to the extruder you can really hear a big difference when the flow changes as the extruder is one of the noisier steppers. Then when you figure out the perfect value for you, you can put that into cura for future first layers. However, this is a bad idea in the long run. Corners will lift. Parts will come loose. Bottom layers won't be as beautiful if there are gaps between the fill lines.

Yes. But you need to do about 50% to make much difference. But again, your parts wont' stick so well.

It's impossible for the bed to heat or cool that fast (3 degrees in 1/4 second). It can't even heat or cool 1 degree in 2 seconds. It's a sensor error. I don't know if there is electrical interference or a loose wire. I'd give a gentle tug to the heater sensor wires both at the heated bed and at the circuit board. It's more likely at the heated bed. I would loosen the connector and remove and then re-insert the 2 sensor wires. Also have the printer on, look at the bed temperature, and while looking at it, push on the connector with at least 1kg force in every direction to see if there is something loose. It could easily be a bad solder connection under the screw-block where the wires go into the heated bed. That was the problem with my UM2 (almost exact same design) - the solder joint wasn't good. I had to reheat it with a soldering iron (this was years ago - it's been fine since). I don't think it's serious since it seems to be stable enough to keep the bed at a constant temperature but I'd try to fix it anyway.

Well you can buy a raspberry pi with wifi for about $35 and put octoprint (free) on it. That's how most people connect cheap printers to their network. But I think if you print for a while with SD cards you'll find it works well. With octoprint you can slice in cura and then switch to your browser on the same computer and easily upload the print to octoprint and hit the print button. It's pretty easy. It's a nice friendly web interface.

lol. Progress. Now you will have to deal with ripped adhesion sheets. You should be able to do this without adhesion sheets. Use ABS glue. Or liquid PVA like in my video and you won't have to deal with getting the bubbles out of those sheets and having to reapply them all the time.

Are there any reviews for any printers on youtube where the printer costs >= $6000 or 6000 euros? I'm not making a statement. I'm really asking. For example has Joel 3d printing nerd or Tom Salanderer ever reviewed a >=$6000 printer?

Initial layer flow is what you are looking for but I don't recommend you mess with it. If you don't regulate the Z offset... it will regulate you. If you level 0.1mm higher or lower, that's a 30% difference in space. A 30% overextrusion or 30% underextrusion. If your extruder is slipping - is it correct that you have a UM2 original (not um2+ and no feeder upgrades)? The UM2 is the one that seems to have occasional sudden slips. The fix is to do the plus upgrade or to get the meduza upgrade or the bondtech upgrade or just ignore it. I've tried all 4 of those and currently use 4 UM2s with those 4 solutions and I am happy with all 4 printers. The problem is if you level slightly higher off the glass (or adjust initial layer flow) such that it is not slipping then you might not be squishing the filament enough and your part may come loose or the corners may curl/lift.

The S5 has a filament sensor so you are triggering that for some reason. I would consider turning it off for the core that is using brassfill. Maybe it's too slipery or something for the sensor or coming into the feeder from a strange angle. You can disable the sensor in the menu system on the S5 itself. Or you can just continue the print when it complains that you are out of material but you know you are not. Or both (continue the print but then disable the filament sensor while it's printing). The only difference in the profile of PLA/PHA brassfill versus plain old PLA might be print speed and temperature of nozzle I think. Certainly PLA/PHA and PLA have the same settings (some PLA filaments have PHA in them I suspect without any mention of this obivious on the product). Brass adds a lot of thermal mass and so takes a few extra seconds to cool down. Also t's probably good to use a 0.6mm nozzle or 0.8 to reduce the likelihood of clogging.

There's not a lot of CR10 people here. Is there a CR10 list you can use? Does CR10 have a forum? If not maybe you could suggest it? I'm changing your topic so other owners of CR10 are more likely to notice this topic. Or... buy an Ultimaker?

How much does a Um3 head cost by the way? Contact fbrc8.com as they manufacture the heads so they always have plenty in stock, lol. If you get all that plastic off the short might go away. It's probably one or both cores pushed over to the side and shorting some contacts.

It won't. The S5 has larger rods and bearings so the bearings and rods won't fit. Also the head is a little wider (to make room for one of the wider rods). So you will have a smaller print area.

It looks like this model doesn't need any support anyway. So you could just turn that off.

Or maybe L2 got burnt? If there is 5V at U6 PIN 12 then check on the other side of L2 at TP16 perhaps.