gr5

I hear you regarding the stiffness. Ultimaker does a lot of testing to create their profiles - it's really impressive all that they do. Yet I still don't like them and feel they need even more tweaking. The manufacturers of these materials have suggested print temperatures and bed temperatures and such but it usually takes a dozen prints to dial in my settings for a new material and to figure out all the new issues (e.g. nylon really needs a door on the front and preferably a box on top to keep the air warmer -- nylon needs to be kept dry until minutes before printing so I print right out of a bag with dessicant -- nylon needs 1% to 3% fan speed on Um3. ABS also needs all these things. But it seems to me it's worth it to experiment a bit when creating a new product line. I mean if you were doing injection molding you wouldn't expect to be an expert at CF Nylon on creating the very first mold. Profiles are a great idea but in my experience every manufacturer is different. Room temperature or "wind" in the room makes a big difference. Or maybe a user will do a slightly different layer height or speed and it may end up causing one to modify other parameters to get the profile to work.

I strongly recommend you stick with cura 15. At least for the first 100 prints. Cura 15 works great and I still use it on some of my printers. Cura 3.X has a huge learning curve and will waste time trying to get things working - it will be a distraction.

Lots of people print CF on Ultimaker 3. You really should get a ruby core first (I sell these at thegr5store.com) because the cores that Ultimaker sells will get destroyed in just a few hours of printing CF. All of these manufacturers post specifications on their materials - you want to look at the tensile modulus and the tensile strength (or yield). The first number is how stiff the material is with the larger number being more stiff. The tensile strength is how much force it takes to pull a block of the material apart if you pull straight outwards in opposite directions (like if you made it in the shape of a rope and hung some large weight). I have graphed these specs here: http://gr5.org/mat/ I don't like CF much - it makes the materials stiffer without being stronger and results in materials that are more brittle. I prefer plain nylons which are more flexible than most materials and this makes them very tough. But I'm not sure if you want something stiff like glass or tough like sneakers. Looking at the graph in the above link you'll see that nylforce CF has amazing specs. I have a few meters someone just gave me a few days ago and plan to test it as I'm skeptical that it is as good as they say. I'm told to print CF on small layer height so the fibers line up a little better.

I don't know all the answers. The flexibility is similar to pla I think - why - is yours very flexible? The best way I know to test if it absorbed too much water is that it sizzles when you print (and you can also see steam coming out of the nozzle). You want to keep PVA and Nylon extremely dry. I have dried nylon by setting the bed to 99C and letting it sit for 6 hours under a blanket on the bed. However PVA will melt at that temp so you would have to do it closer to 80C I think - I'd take a snip of PVA, put it under a towel on the bed at 80C for 20 minutes then squish it firmly and see if it changes shape permanently - then repeat the experiment at a few other temps (I seem to remember it is soft around 80C). Then once you know what's "too hot" I'd heat the PVA for a few days on the bed under a towel at the highest safe temp. I'm not sure you can ever get the moisture out of PVA with the baking method but it's worth a try. Ultimaker PVA is different than most manufacturers and takes much longer to absorb water (weeks). However I'm guessing (total guess!) this also makes it harder to dry.

Looks really good. Really good. Textbook. But if the parts comes loose then I'd squish slightly more.

Well learn some gcode - it's very very simple. Very simple. Extremely simple. In my opinion. It just executes the gcodes in order top to bottom. You should read about the difference between M104, M109 here (also M140, M190): http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code If you set the temperature in a gcode and don't wait it will continue executing the next gcode (which might start printing for example or might turn the heat on elsewhere or play with fans etc) before the temperature is achieved. The other method doesn't continue execution to the next gcode until the temperature is achieved. So typically you turn on the bed at first but don't want the nozzle to come on because it steals some power from the bed and the bed takes longer. Then when the bed is say 10C below goal you can turn the nozzle on. So one way to do this is: bed goal to 50C and wait for it to happen before continuing to... bed goal now to 60C but don't wait nozzle to 210 and wait for it before moving on... bed to 60C and wait (just in case bed is only at for example 55C when nozzle gets to 210C) That's just one of a few good ways to do it. Do the above 4 commands make sense? The other concern is you don't want filament sitting in the nozzle at full printing temp as the material deteriorates faster when at printing temps. So you want to somewhat minimize the time the nozzle is at full temp yet not printing.

You might want thicker walls, yes. I would first try 100mm walls (all wall) and play with nozzle width but alternatively or in addition: You want to set Extra Skin Wall Count to 0 and filter out tiny gaps should be checked more discussion here: https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues/2665

Right. I mean this is not the standard way to do things and Ultimaker will never condone this. But if you are an engineer or a hacker and aren't afraid of modifying stuff then this works great. After you modify the eeprom on the core you have to remove it and re-insert it for the UM3 to notice.

For a week or so I was having trouble with USB sticks and it got so bad I would remove the stick, insert it again, and then run a compare program to make sure there was nothing wrong with the file before I printed it.

Ich würde PLA versuchen. Ich habe PLA seit 4 Jahren in Regen und Sonne draußen gestellt und es sieht neu aus. Ich denke, alles, was aus PLA gemacht wird, sollte mindestens ein Jahr dauern. Vielleicht würde es 10 Jahre dauern. Hast du einen PLA-Print in dein Aquarium gelegt? Entschuldigung für Google Übersetzer.

I think your Y axis slipped. I have two theories: 1) Usually this happens when the pulley slips on the rod. So test this with a sharpie (permanent marker). Mark the shaft and pulley of all 6 Y axis pulleys - most importantly the two on the short belt which is on the stepper. You may have to remove the cover to get at the Y axis stepper but if you have a long hex driver you can push the print head around until you have a clear view of the pulley set screw. Tighten those very very tight. So tight you are afraid you will break something. @fbrc8-erin - how much torque do you tighten those with? 2) This could be that when it switches to the other head it isn't in the right position (the nozzle changer device on the side of the printer) and it pushes so hard against the nozzle changer device that you loose Y steps. This should be obvious if you watch this happen. There is a calibration procedure to check this but I'm told it is tricky and should only be attempted as a last resort. I would instead rule out this #2 theory by rebooting the machine and then changing back and forth between the 2 nozzles using the menu system. It's probably #1.

@Gigi has been successful. The things he suggest will help you a lot: extra thin layer of PVA (I think that is the main ingredient of 3DLac but not sure). Cover the front and top of the machine. brim. And most importantly overlooked - squish the material a bit more. Which printer do you have? On UM printers I like to squish the material a bit more if it's warping. More info here: Also note that there are many other high temp materials. How high do you need? This graph in the link below is not an accurate guide - most especially the working temperature of materials (your most important requirement) but if you can pick a material a little more to the left in the lower graph then that will be easier to print: http://gr5.org/mat/ (second graph!)

There are many possibilities. The one that seems most likely and comes to mind first is that in Cura you selected an Ultimaker 2 instead of an ultimaker 2go. This would default the part to the center of it's roughly 200mm X 200mm plate which centers of course roughly at 100mm X 100mm which is in the back right corner of the 2go. (0,0) is the front left corner and X increases to the right an Y increases to the rear. You can in fact place your part anywhere you want in Cura so you can just click and drag it to the front left corner in cura, slice, and it will print closer to the front left corner than it has in the past.

It could be the power cable isn't all the way in - make sure it snaps in and when you tug on the cable it won't come out unless you slide the connector first. Or it could be the power supply. I have many meanwell power supplies for my various Ultimaker printers and some of the supplies are better than others and they can get old and start failing. I recommend you buy a new one on the internet but make sure you get the GS model and not the GST because the GS puts out just a little bit more power (the GST is more efficient but puts out a little less power). Both types put out more than their stated power normally but the GS has a larger margin. Meanwell power supplies. GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B Or you could by a larger power supply that can suply more power (24V and 300W would be good) and then cut the cable and solder the cable from your existing supply to the new supply.

In cura read description of the feature "minimum layer time" however you might want to instead print one or two Towers next to your print to allow the ears to cool more between layers. Towers will give you better quality.

Good to know. Over in the French forum they seem to be finding this is only happening on macs. Can you confirm your os?

Abs is a difficult material and impact strength is better than ancient formulations of pla but about the same as modern pla. If you need it to be really tough then maybe nylon is better. Also pva doesn't work with abs I believe. 245c should be fine and set fan speed to 1 to 3% on um3. Build plate to 105 or 110. Cover feont of printer and preferably top also. Not sure what your issue is however. Probably you are.printing too fast. What are all your speeds? (Inner outer shell infill and support). What are all your line widths? Which nozzle and what is layer height? Oh I see layer is 15. Make sure cura isn't printing with a line width wider than nozzle width. That's easy to do by accident and causes grinding. Hopefully it's just the fan too high.

This is a recent bug and there are many questions about this. Did you update your printers firmware recently? Because the firmware that comes with cura 3.2 has this exact bug. Also mac or pc? Someone seems to think this is a mac only issue but more likely it's the firmware.

Parts coming loose can be a disaster worse than just having a failed print so I tend to squish more than sander indicates. All the above steps are important but squishing like photo #2 above results in parts sticking even more. So for large prints or if you are still new at this then aim for #2 until you are more experienced.

It looks like your bowden isn't in all the way in maybe. Check that carefully and also make sure your third head fan works.

Then I suspect nothing is wrong with z. What happened is your part came loose after a while and was carried around on the bed for hours while the filament slowly squished back into the head. The trick is to learn to get your parts to stick better. I have a video about this buy am traveling today and can't help you.

@Daid ? Is there some authorization thing here he needs to do?

@swordiff note above post. 3dsolex did switch I believe to a slightly weaker spring but it's still pretty strong. I'm thinking maybe there is more friction in your hardcore than typical. I've done QA on hundreds of these and taken them apart and put them back together before shipping to customers and I can see how if the black "trigger" part is a little too wide then it might stick like this although I've never seen this in person. I think you should contact carl at 3dsolex and get a new one so he can inspect yours and learn from it as this is mostly a guess.

First of all, during printing, the temperatures are all set via Cura. On the UM2 the temperatures were set on the printer but with the UM3 they are set in Cura. And when changing materials you don't really need to heat up the core - well I don't anyway - I just lift the lever on the feeder, pull out the old material and insert the new one. Then if I switch from say PLA to CPE i tell the printer on the front panel.

I never heard of this. This is new. I looked at your gcode file and the Z should be moving - it goes to 11mm - your part should be about 11mm tall, right? So this is strange that the Z axis works fine when you home it but when you go to print it doesn't move? That doesn't seem likely. Maybe the homing is way off such that it is squishing hard into the plate and even after moving the bed down 3mm the nozzle is still touching the glass. That I could believe.