gr5

I think you did the wrong edit. You should only be messing with the first temp sensor. The change you made told the printer you aren't using PT100 anymore but some other temp sensor. Not sure which. Probably a 10K thermistor. Let me look at pins.h...

1) So did you have to take the metal corner cover off the stepper (2 screws I think to get that off)? Did you have a long hex driver? Or did you have to remove the stepper to get at that pulley? I'm telling you it's almost always the stepper. I have had 100s of people with this issue and it's almost always the pulley on the stepper. But not always. Okay - Y axis is slipping. That's definitely good to know. Stepper in rear left corner. 😉 For Y axis it is even less likely to be a problem with the 4 upper pulleys as there is a dual pulley that connects the motor pulley directly to one of the 2 long belts. So you need 2 failures for it to be anything other then the stepper pulley. Okay - this is definitely new. I don't know what a change cycle is. Can you explain more? does the printer home again? Is this a 2 filament print? Is this a dual core print? I don't understand why there would be some kind of "change cycle". Your print appears to only have one type of filament. Do you have "pause at layer" plugin enabled? Please elaborate. This is certainly suspicious.

You can contact me directly if you click on my icon and then "message"

It could be that nord vpn will release information in the case of criminal cases. I don't know.

His ip address is definitely nord vpn. coming out of Charlotte, NC (and owned by a company in germany) but he could be anywhere in the world. This is not looking good and is looking a lot like fraud to me. I mean many people use nord vpn who are not criminals but still it's not looking good. One common use of vpn services is to hide your identity (another is to hide your traffic for example if you are on a public wifi such as at an airport).

By the way, I doubt the temp sensor electronics is broken. I've never heard of this. But the sensor itself can definitely fail. There is no solder inside the temp sensor (it would melt) so it is just crimped. When you heat and cool this, the resistance can increase which makes the printer think the temp sensor is hotter than it is and you end up with a warm (but not hot) nozzle. Or it can fail completely (open circuit). Did you measure the resistance of the temp sensor with an ohm-meter? You have to disconnect the temp sensor from the ultiboard first as that will throw off your measurement. The PT100 should be around 109 ohms at room temperature (and 100 ohms at 0C).

All your edits will be in pins.h. Concentrate on that file. There are instructions on how to rebuild the firmware here:

left versus right core is something you should ignore. The problem is unrelated. But I'll try to explain anyway why there is a left/right core issue. You are achieving a higher acceleration on the shifting layers when you print with the left core. I don't know why but it's probably the exact tool path that cura takes. The cura tool path is quite complicated and tries not to go beyond certain accelerations and the firmware on the printer also but the firmware has many known bugs where it can go a bit over the max acceleration. So let's get to what you need to do. First you need to figure out if it's the X or Y axis that is slipping/losing steps. If it's left/right slipping then it's the X axis. front/back slipping then the Y axis. You only have to fix the slipping axis. No need to "tighten everything". 80% of the time the problem is a loose pulley. I know you said you tightened things up but the most likely problem is the pulley on the stepper motor which ironically is the hardest pulley to get to. Each pulley has a set screw. You want that so damn tight you would be surprised. The steel tool should be twisting you want it so tight. If you use a small L shaped allen wrench and your fingers are on the short end then your fingers should hurt. A lot. If you have your fingers on the long end (not possible with the stepper pulley) then take it easy - you don't want to crack the set screw in half. The second most likely is the other end of the short belt. You can get to all the pulleys without taking anything apart if you shove the head around to line things up and if you have a long shaft allen wrench. Metric. 2mm. 18% of the time the friction is too high. Shove the head around in X and then Y and see if one has a higher resistance. Either way try adding one drop of oil to each of the 6 (six! not 2, not 4, but six) rods. Careful not to let the oil get on the glass or the belts. Any mineral oil will do. 3-in-1 is great. Sewing machine oil is great. Even baby oil is fine. A light oil is preferred. The shafts through the head theoretically don't need any oil as those are ball bearings (linear). So try to use even less than a drop. Or skip those. Less than 2% of the time it's a bad stepper driver. Stepper drivers shut off (very briefly) if they over heat. If your printer is in an area where the air is > 90F/32C then that could be the issue but it would tend to not fail for the first half hour and then fail like crazy for the whole rest of the print.

This "flake" person's ip address is in Germany. Is that where he said he was? Or is there a different person named "nate"? Hmm that same address also sometimes resolves to north carolina and possibly nord vpn (which would be bad as the vpn could disguise the actual country).

Years later... it could also be the Y axis bearing. Push the nozzle left/right and then front/back. If it's much worse in front/back then it could be the Y axis bearing. You'll know because when the nozzle goes backwards a little, the top of the print head will come towards you a little. Years later I still have no problem with my Y axis bearing but neotko had a loose bearing from day 1 with his printer. He fixed it with a shim.

Well the error is hopefully EXACTLY 25.4X and if you click on the part and set the scale tool to 2540% and that gets it close then it's probably exactly that. Also often it is off by EXACTLY 10x. So try those 2 scales and hopefully that will explain a lot. If it's too small by 25.4 then illustrator is probably switching to inches at the last second when it saves the file. If it is off by 10X then illustrator is probably switching to cm at the last second when it saves the file.

Well definitely read what Ultimaker has to say: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011706239 It amazes me that the printer says to go to ultimaker.com/ER65 yet very rarely do people seem to do it. The filament sensor gets confused if you are printing very flexible filaments. Very rubbery filaments. Also having it only 2.6mm diameter could be the issue. I'd just turn off the sensor. 99% of printers out there don't have a filament sensor and they do fine. It's easy to disable from the menu system on the printer.

How important is it to get rid of them? The solutions I know will make the print take much longer to print. Do you care about how it looks or does it have to be water tight? For both: It appears they are happening at the z seam. These problems tend to occur at speed changes (in this case it stops and moves to the inner portion of your part or maybe this is the start of a layer). So you can reduce the speed change by printing slower. Much slower. Try 25mm/sec for ALL printing speeds (infill, shell, etc - I think there are 7 printing speeds). Also keep other (non printing) speeds fast (travel speed, retraction speed) so there isn't time for the nozzle to leak (and then start up with less than ideal nozzle pressure). Also make sure your wall thickness is a multiple of your line width - if line width is 0.37mm then wall thickness should be 1.11 or 1.48 (I prefer line width of 0.4 but 0.37 works fine). For water tight: Increase the line width to nozzle+20% so for a 0.4mm nozzle, try 0.5mm line width. And again, make all the printing speeds the same (40mm/sec should be slow enough). Make sure your wall thickness is a multiple of your line width. So if line width is 0.5 then wall thickness should be 1.0 or 1.5 (1.5 probably better for water tight). You can even go as high as 1mm line width but if you do drop the speed by about 2X.

1) It's possible it's a cura issue. Please post your project file which contains your model and printer settings and profile and overrides. To do this in Cura do "file" "save project as..." and post that file here. I'm thinking this is the most likely issue. 2) Is the problem happening on the left core or the right? If the problem is only on the right core then maybe you have to recalibrate the "lift switch". 3) When doing manual calibration, try calibrating such that things are extra tight against the calibration card. Basically I'm just wondering if you are doing the manual calibration wrong (in addition to something wrong with your active calibration when manual calibration is off). 4) filament doesn't stick to blue tape nearly as well as after you clean it briefly with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol). Just a few quick wipes with a tissue wetted with IPA. 5) There is a "factory reset" feature in the UM3 maintenance menu somewhere. This may fix the issue but you will have to recalibrate the lift switch and the bed leveling and any XY leveling (XY you can skip for now as you figure out your issue).

Yes. Definitely use the BB 0.4. Also, reading the instructions for this filament, I'd lower the temp from 215 to 210 which should automatically lower the initial layer temp from 220 to 215C. Make sure you do this on the second tab (extruder 2). Assuming you have this filament on the second core. I'm not familiar with this brand of filament but I've heard really good things about aquasys And make sure to keep this filament extremely dry. Use about 1 cup of desiccant in a sealed bag and recharge the desiccant when it changes color (use color changing desiccant like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I5Y2DG6

Please include photos of what you are talking about. We can't tell if you are complaining about things that are too small/minor to be fixed, if you are on the edge of fixable or if your issue is 10X worse than normal printing.

"death to humans"!! Love the outfit.

I wouldn't ship the whole printer - shipping can destroy a printer. Just ship the print head.

Woah - something is definitely seriously wrong. There are 3 fans in the print head. Did you make sure the 2 side fans are working? Maybe put a piece of paper in the flow. I'm suspecting the nozzle temp. Try printing from the right slot instead of the left. If something is wrong with the contacts to the core or if something on the head PCB (an amplifier circuit) then likely it will only be a problem on the left head. Also you can check the temperature using this quick video. It's a rough check but certainly accurate enough to hopefully confirm if your nozzle is 20C too hot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrZbX-SfftU

cura uses openGL. openGL won't support certain functions if the video driver doesn't have that ability. Cura knows this and reduces the feature set automatically. That's the problem. Try to see if there is an upgrade to the GTX 550 driver you are using. That usually fixes the issue where features are missing. Possibly you can also install a newer version of openGL? I'm not sure if that's a thing or how to do that buy you can google.

Does the other printer have white filament? White is worse. Raised edges over overhangs are common but this is extreme. Check the fans. Fans and cooler temps improve this.

We need more details. For example: 1) PVA doesn't stick on top of PLA very well so maybe you just need to increase "support horizontal expansion". The symptom would be that you have tons of PVA everywhere but it's all over the place and not where it needs to be. 2) One or both nozzles just stops extruding. 2a) pla stops 2b) pva stops If the problem is 2b then that makes sense as the pva is sitting hot for a while during time printing pla. I'd try drying the pva. The second most common problem with PVA is that the filament isn't dry enough. The bottom layer on the glass needs to be transparent for the entire bottom layer. Check that. If not - if it's snowy - then there is water in the filament. Look at cura or on the printer or digital factory to find out how many meters of pva will be printing. Unspool that amount and (without cutting the filament) put that much filament on the bed and put the spool on top and put a towel or blanket on top of that. Heat to 65C for 4 hours. Then try printing. To dry the whole spool takes a few days and at a higher temp but don't put the filament directly on the glass bed if you go hotter than 65C. Try 70C for 2 or 3 days.

You should be able to improve that with the "engineering" profiles. S5 should have some engineering profiles. Also be aware that smaller printers will give you better tolerances (So S3 typically better than S5 and UM2go is even better).

I think you've gotten your money's worth out of that printer. 6000 hours (or meters) must be above average.

6550 hours. Nice. How many kilometers of filament? Typically 6 kilometers with 6000 hours but it should say on the maintenance menu. How many spools is that? Anyway, yes the black powder is from the belts. It's probably time to change them. They are not expensive but it may take you an hour to change them. They come with the black sliding blocks (which have springs inside. The whole thing is one purchase item (4 belts with integrated blocks). If you are in USA I'd contact fbrc8.com. Otherwise contact your reseller for a set. But it's not urgent.