Torgeir

Thanks. Glad I could help you. Torgeir

Hi I just experimented a little and found that Cura behaves real strange here.. When I increased the "Travel Avoid distance" to 10 mm, -your model become 19 gram and print time 3 hour and 7 min!.. I've also decreased the Z height to -.05 mm., then the skirt become all around the foil. Noticed a little opening at the wing tip, that was sealed by enabling "adaptive layer" under experimental.. Here's the project file, i might have changed a few other thing so just for experimenting.. : Have fun. Torgeir CCR10S_Spitfire_mkIX_L_wing6(1).3mf

Hi @mi-control, I'll think the print core serial number also reflect the Core type You'll find it under "Settings" then to "About this printer" just roll down for the actual cores S/N. This might confirm the type of core. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Flemming, How many working hours should I expect from these cores? This is not easy to answer for sure. I've seen all kind of different "max working life" for those cores.. Worst case, here printing abrasive filament using special cores for this ~1000 hour using ~ (8-10)Kg filaments.. Edit: The above is about third party abrasive nozzles found around. Ultimaker also have an abrasive core CC red 0.6 mm, -"super wear resistant" ruby nozzle. This is the nozzle made with boron carbide tip. I'll think Anders Olsson from Sweeden is behind this design. I've seen some report that this nozzle have been printing 25 Kg of abrasive filament without sign of wear. People have reported "heavily wear" using normal AA core printing with just a small amount of abrasive filament. Worth to remember, -the print cores is to be considered as consumables. Best case, using "normal" filaments >(2000-4000) hour depending of temperature and cycling (nozzle). All this is based on the reports in here, so I'll think this is realistic and make sense. From a technical point of view, -the core mounted in slot 1 will in general last longer than the one mounted in slot 2.. (For sure, if it always go to this slot 1.) Because it is not switched up and down, -as core 2 must do in order to work.. So, monochrome printing is always best to print with core 1/slot 1. Maybe worth mention here is that each core have it own "hour counter" on the core's PCB/contact plate. This info can be seen using printers menu, "settings" then to "About this printer". Info in here is: Print core Serial number: Time Hot: Material amount: Max. Temperature: Thanks Torgeir

Mi oh mine, thin wall was deselected... 🤪 It's early morning.. Better -go to bed. Here it is, at least.. I'll hope.. Torgeir CE3PRO_19gr_wing6_HH_Exp_To_0.gcode

Hi Greg, Just a minor thing, "horizontal hole expansion" (*) to be set to "0", think it was 1.1 or around.. But here's your project file a little modified.. (*) HHExp0 I'll think it's 15 gram. Cheers Torgeir And the one I sliced for the S3.. 14 gram. CE3PRO_19gr_wing6_HH_Exp_To_0.3mf

Hi Folks, Very interesting this.. 🙂 In order to go light weight, just go to "special mode" and select "surface" mode. With this you'll have the "wall" (so the original spares come to view), select one line wall and the model go into diet mode.. I've got it down to just above 10g, but assume it's to skinny.. I do deal a little with this, but mostly electrical super light, easy to fly with high fun factor. 😁 Edit. RC is not that difficult, -with a proper RC trainer for PC you practice this yourself. The real test is when you try the real thing.. Have A look at PhoenixRC for PC, one of the best there is IMHO.. Safe flying. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flnielsen, This error mean that there is to "much" difference between the two nozzles height when touching the bed, normally this difference is 3 mm and there is a value + or - 0.XX mm, that'll give this error. ( I do not know this limit). This system is made to avoid the most common problem "all" of us faced sometimes.. Yes good bed leveling and proper bed adhesion. 1) Dirty surface on the bed, this might result in error when the core no2 awaiting the raising "dirty bed". (Distance to hi.) 2) Did you calibrate the Nozzle switch position? The micro switches wear (home position may differ just a little) -and also the shift mechanism in the head.. 3) How much wear does the core1 have, as high hour in use -or use of abrasive filament.. 4) Is the front cover sitting properly, no play? The shielding is also an active part of the capacitive sensor, so it can easily fail by using electronics creating strong EMF radiation.. Keep cellphone and other electronics away during aut. level proc. 5) If one of the wires attached to the captive sensor come loose, intermittent connection. The red and withe wires connected to this sensor. Here is the calibration procedure for the Core switch: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011545039-How-to-calibrate-the-Lift-switch-on-the-Ultimaker-S5 So, as you see, here's lots of mechanical issues that can trigger this error. Also, later software update might revise limits etc., -so proper calibration might be the key. (aut -automatic) (proc- procedure) Well, good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @AndreCarvalho, When we change this kind of switch regulator, we'll also change the fly back diode (D16) as well. When you look at your thermal picture, there is two hot spot.. And the other is this diode. Also check that the 5VDC out line have no direct ground (other circuits might cause the power supply to fry). Normally it's only this two active components that's fails like this. Ok., good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Wenn man darüber nachdenkt, kann man sagen, dass es vier Gründe für eine Unterextrusion geben kann. 1) Heizblockkoppler mit einer Verengung, die das Aussterben begrenzt. 2) Feeder-Problem. 3) Düsenblockierung. 4) Heizblock, der Kühlprobleme aufwirft. Dies sind die bekanntesten Probleme, aber es gibt auch Kombinationen davon. Es ist auch möglich, dass der kleine Lüfter auf der Rückseite Probleme hat, wenn es heiß wird. Dies kann mit der Tatsache zusammenhängen, dass der Extruderkopf während der Bewegung, bei der der Anker aufgrund eines verschlissenen Lagers untergetaucht ist, eine große Beschleunigung aufweist. Nur eine Theorie, aber es passiert. Vielen Dank Torgeir.

Hmm .. Es kann immer noch sein, dass dieser Lüfter einen Fehler hatte, vorausgesetzt, dass der Fehler an dem Kameraden liegt, von dem er lange abgelenkt war. Hier wurde berichtet, dass das Filament in diesem Bereich weicher wird, wenn der obere Teil des Heizblocks nicht ausreichend gekühlt wird. Infolgedessen wird die Zuführung belastet und kann beginnen, sich auf dem Filament zu drehen. Graaf hier, damit dieser Tee lange hält, hör auf, was komplett ist. Es gibt viele Möglichkeiten für eine böse Extrusion, aber dieser Schritt läuft normalerweise ab, wenn wir hier sehen. Er kann berichten, dass die zweite Version von UM2, die ein Lüfter gestartet hat, den Drucker anzeigt. Ich habe den alten Typ, der die ganze Zeit an 5 VDC angeschlossen ist. Vielleicht können Sie Ihre Maschinensteuerung verwenden? Steuergerät nach Auslieferung der Maschine durch Direktstart des Lüfters. Im Moment sehe ich keine andere gute Erklärung für Ihr Problem, aber er denkt jetzt genauso. Es kann sein, dass andere hier andere erfahrene Reisende .. Torgeir

Sie können möglicherweise einen Kleingedruckten mit PLA starten, die erste Schicht wird ohne Lüfter gedruckt. In diesem Fall sollte der Lüfter mit voller Drehzahl (100% Drehzahl) laufen. Torgeir

Heizen Sie die Düsenheizung und beobachten Sie den Start des Lüfters. Dies ist leicht zu erkennen, wenn sich die Düse in der vorderen Position befindet. Torgeir

Hallo Raphael, Dies kann darauf hinweisen, dass Sie Probleme beim Abkühlen des Hotends am Drucker haben. Dies ist der hintere Lüfter am Drucker. Erraten Sie dies, wenn der Druck auf dem Drucker immer schlechter wird und dies wie eine Unterextrusion aussieht, die mit der Zeit zunimmt. Versuchen Sie herauszufinden, ob dies der Fall ist, da dieser Lüfter nicht die optimale Leistung hat. Viel Glück Vielen Dank Torgeir

Hi @CQAdam, This seems to be caused by "old" remains on the heat bed and -it is amazing that your printer did not fails due to this.. If you look closely at the inside surface and compare with the outside -it is easy to see. I'm using a scrape for cleaning windows after painting, to clean/removing this stuff from the bed. This works very well. Now and then, you'll also need to wash with mild lukewarm soap water and remember to rinse thoroughly with clean warm water(50 deg. C). You can also use alcohol to remove this finger marks (oil) etc. So, in order to avoid build up like this, we must make sure that the bed is clean, -my best advice here. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

The strange thing is that every version slice it different due to this issue.. So partly leaking no good. 🤪

Hi Greg, Sure, but Cura did not report any leak, just a lighter color.. But. hmm Well, here's a view of it:

Hi folks, This issue I've learned about sometimes before last Christmas.. I've also thought this was a leakage, -until I loaded the model into Cura 15.04.5. (I'm using this one when thing seems strange). Whith this slicer I've to use Cura 4.3.0 in preview to see how the slicing details become with Cura 15.04.5. To my surprise, all the letter in the name "hartplastic" was perfect -but the logo itself was only half made.. Then I've come to think about what @ahoeben said about details in writing letters like this. He said use smaller nozzle, -this is the problem.. I'd just tried the model in here, changed from 0,4 mm to 0.25 mm -then all the letters showed up. Ofc., I've use Cura 4.8.0 for this and standard fine profile with 0.25 mm nozzle and a S3 printer. Edit: Just forgotten to inform that I'd sliced the model in orientation so the logo and name come out vertically. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tojiero, Just checked the board version you have (2.1.4) and found only a minor modification over the 2.1.1 main PCB. Your PCB is modified to remove the "zebra stripes" problem created by the stepper drivers. There's six LED on this board, one for each heat output (3 each), two (RX & TX) for the USB communication and one for 5 VDC power on. This latter is diode (LED) D7 and should be green. All of them are the small lo profile types.. Not easy to see unlighted. I'll think the step down converter (U6 and fly back diode might be faulty) 24 VDC to 5 VDC is the problem, this as you found the 24 VDC present, but no light up of D7. I'll remember that someone, not to long ago -found a repair shop in London.. This was reported in here. I do not think there is any problem using the schematic for 2.1.1 version for repairing this card. But for sure, there might be some other reason for this step down converter to fail, -but normally close to 90% of all electronic failures is caused by the power supplies. EDIT. Just forgot to mention that the components are on the other side of the PCB. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tojiero, There is several thing can cause this problem, but what "often" fail here is the power supply devices. Since your external power supply have the outside blue light on, you need to check the 24 VDC to 5 VDC power supply on the main PCB in the bottom of your UM2. PLS. Do not try to measure at the connector plug at the power supply, as there is "open" pins that's not insulated and very easy to short -damaging your (external) primary power supply. You'll need to remove the metal shield cover that's protecting your main PCB. Here is a link to a similar issue's story in here: Have a look here as a start. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Navin2020, Good catch. Now the fun begin.. Happy new Year. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @wdvogel, Ultimaker do not recommend removing the bowden tube from the decoupler. However, if it do come loose, you may look for the notches made by the locking clip (the four knife inside that's clamp the bowden tube) for the end entering the decoupler, if you find this marks you'll know how far in this tube go. Yes there is a calibration procedure for the decoupling units, just read about it in this document: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/article_attachments/360013097260/Ultimaker_S5_Material_Station_-_Decoupler_calibration_instructions_v2.pdf The PVA can have very strong feather effect curving when it become some old. The filament may tend to hook up inside the feeder during installation. To avoid this You may strait the end and make the tip like an arrow about 45 deg angle. If the PVA feels very hard to strait out, -it may be brittle and may break when feeding into the printing system. I use an old bowden tube that is straightened and clamped to a wooden plate that is straight, so before I use PVA for printing, I will feed the filament into this test jig just to see if it breaks/fails. If this goes well, the filament can be used in the printer. You may find that the filament become much better if unwinding some of the roll. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Navin2020, Was the firmware 5.8.2 installed from the beginning or did you update it yourself? So, first problem first. The material station can move filament in both direction if filament is not broken. If filament is broken, the material station cannot retract all the filament back, but it can tell you by error code where the filament ruptured and where to look for broken filament remains. Any error reported is essential for us to understand your problem. For all work with removing a filament trapped into the material station, the power core has to be disconnected. So if this filament is broken into two pieces, there might be a problem to get it out from the bowden tube. If this piece is located inside the material station, it has to be pushed out from the feeding port where the actual filament was feed from. To do this, disconnect the bowden tube from the feeder used on the S5 (if it was PVA it should be feeder 2). Now manually feed (a new good roll) PVA that's properly cut(*), into the port used where filament ruptured, you might use some forces to pass the first feeder. It is important to feed the filament in the port, so that the curve is oriented as it is unrolled from a filament roll installed. Important, do not use another port using the same print core (with associated coupler) that's failed. If one do so, there might be a sever blockage in the coupler directing filament to one of the core from one of the filament port in the material station. All the above you can do yourself, but Ultimaker do not recommend removing the bowden tubes from the couplers. Thanks Torgeir

I'll agree for sure, -but in your case, maybe @SandervG or @CarloK can give some advice? I've been wondering -what Firmware version does you printer have? As every firmware update have a correction description for known issues. It might be worth to look at this "release note" file. Hmm, -It seems that firmware version 5.8.2 deal some with your issues.. The firmware for S5 is found here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011545559?download=https%3A%2F%2Fsupport.ultimaker.com%2Fhc%2Fen-us%2Farticles%2F360011545559 A part of the release note: -------------------------------- Firmware 5.8.2 October 20, 2020 Firmware 5.8.2 is a patch upgrade to the 5.8.1. In this release we have introduced a loading error wizard for the Pro Bundle which catches errors whereby loading would have failed. The wizard provides the user with a chance to recover from this error. Furthermore, improvements to the NFC reading mean that the Pro Bundle should more often correctly read the filament type and material left. Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle Introduced loading error wizard for end of filament. When a critical error occurs during loading at an end of filament (ER52, ER54 & ER56), users will now be shown an error recovery wizard. By following the steps and correcting the fault users can prevent the critical errors from showing up and ensure their print resumes correctly. NFC improvements. Improvements have been done to NFC spool detection. The Pro Bundle can now more reliably read the NFC tag of the material loaded. The chance of an unknown material detection is significantly decreased, leading to less chance of orange exclamation mark. For best results, always load the material by placing on the left hand side of the loading bay. -------------------------------- You may have this version, but if not -download this version and save it to your USB memory for the printer and install the new firmware from the USB directly to the printer using the menu here. PS. Do not think about the next firmware 6.0 at the moment.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Horenz, Have you seen this one, selling Tappex product in Germany here: https://www.kvt-fastening.de/en/productsearch/?q=004M3 Thanks Torgeir