Torgeir

Hi flnielsen, I looked into the 3D model of UM3 and I found this part, -I'll think is the faulty part in your printer. Here is a picture from Fusion 360: Thanks Torgeir.

Hi plasticman, I understand that you have upgraded your UMO to UMO+. Since it seems you have the Marlin firmware for UMO+, I think you should check that you have the right type of heat bed. Your heat bed must be the 24 VDC type. I know there is a 12 VDC version of this heat bed, this was the first heat bed for UMO. So if you have got a 12 VDC version, this could be the reason why you printer made a reset when you tried to increase the temperature for the heat bed. This reset may happened because your power unit cant deliver enough power for such setup, so the voltage will drop and the controller reset! I just advice you to be sure that your Heat Bed is the right for your printer. The only way to check this is to measure by using a relatively good multimeter. The resistance for a 24 VDC heat bed should be not less than 3.29 Ohm. (The 12 VDC heat bed resistance is just 1.36 Ohm. So such bed cannot be used in your setup.) What you see here is two heat bed, one is the 12 VDC version, there is no way to identify them, unless you measure the resistance between point (A and B). Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi plasticman, This is an Ultimaker printer that I do not have (UMO+), however I can see (if I'm right) that this main PCB is an UM2 board.. So I'll know this on for sure, -but not the firmware used here. This might be Marlin, -well Marlin for Ultimaker original+, right? I cannot see any error in your display, so I'm thinking this is some sort of power supply failure.. Next question; did this happen during printing? Or did it happen when starting the printer, -or a new print? Edit: Sorry, I just realized it happen during start on a new print. Normally, when you switch on the printer, you can hear a clicking sound from inside (below) the printer, this clicking sound is from the 24 VDC power relay. Can you hear this? If this relay do not switch 24 VDC to all the servos and the heaters, your printer would not start printing even if it seems to work OK.. Edit: Conclusion, your 24 VDC is working Ok. Edit: We will need to measure the resistance in your heat mat and your PT100 temp sensor. Please comment here. As it is very late here, I'll need to be back tomorrow. Thanks Torgeir

Hi plasticman, Welcome in here! So first question, did you see any error or any other message on the printer display? The printer will stop if you have a bed temperature probe failure. Also if the temperature did not respond/increase it will stop and third if you loose your 24 VDC power. Ultimaker "logic" can work with only 5 VDC present. Any more observation will help. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, I've seen so many times that the double wire (+ and -) 24 VDC used for the heat bed become burned, this frequently occur on the heat bed connect block or on the block at main PCB. Ultimaker changed those screw terminal blocks later on in the production and I'm not sure if there is some blocks of this new spring tension blocks that has failed. However, there is a fix for anything so lets go.. Those terminal blocks are really well selected as they are designed to cope with up to 20 Ampere! So what is the problem? Well, since we are using less than half of this max current we do not need this "heavy" wires, so the wires selected might only need to take about ~ 10 Amps max.. So the selected wire is well AWG 18 (cannot confirm this, but should at least be), can cope with 10 Amps continuously and intermittent up to 16 Amps. As this block terminal can handle 20 Amps, the contact surface clamping area is big - for a single AWG 18 wire. In order to increase the contact area we often use the fold back method, this in order to increase the number of strands that is clamped into the contact area. By doing this, the contact resistance decrease and heat build up is avoided here. Here is some pictures: Here is a picture of how to do this. The orange wire is AWG 18 and the red is AWG 14 (hold 20 Amps Continiously). Here is the AWG 18 fully folded.. Here is the specs for the screw terminal block at Phoenix Contact web site in US. Can be found any places.. Here is the terminal block. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Wells_Dragon, Oh me, this one.. Well I'll think Cura introduced this in version 3.6 or around.. I have an old HP-Compaq 6910P with an old graphic chip and a limited version of hpgl that was not compatible with the "newer" versions of hpgl.. 😞 So I ended up using a newer laptop in order to use the later versions of Cura when needed. For the latest versions of Cura I'm using a high end desktop and have no problem with Cura. By the way, I mostly use Cura version 3.6 and also some older versions of Cura. Cura 4.5 "the latest" is very advanced with lots of functions and kind of complicated, so it is still something I use randomly. Ok., good luck. Regards Torgeir.

Hi BeyChamps, Welcome in here. I've looked at your snap lock box and have some opinions for you. Your models "stl" file is saved with the box and the cover at different height First thing is to move the snap lock holes so they are placed in the middle of the flange, doing this will avoid cracking the outer surface of the box where the holes are located. The wall is very tiny right there. Save your cover and box into two separate files, by doing this the snap lock box with cover can be printed one by one, without any stringing between the two parts. Due to the nature of thermoplastic, you may have to do some test print to make the friction right for the two locking tabs. Here is a picture from Cura (ver 3.6): If you need to have your model in one file, do this: Make sure that the cover up side is resting at same level as the box. Ok. Hope this is what you're looking for. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Wels-Dragon, You actually have the best slicer! There is no simulator start button for Cura, but there is a drag down ball that you can use to see your sliced model layer by layer. I've put this text on your attached picture. You can drag the ball marker down and see all sliced layers on by one. Alternately, just select any number between 0 and 99 in the layer view window on top of the pole. Here is your picture: Hope this helps. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi saroneh, This screw terminal consist of two blocks and each have 3 terminals. Here is the manufacturer (Phoenix) P/N: 1888690 Also Digi-Key P/N: 277-6062-ND Here is a direct link: https://www.digikey.no/product-detail/en/phoenix-contact/1888690/277-6062-ND/2511095?utm_adgroup=Terminal Edit: Digikey is located all around world, there might be one close to your place. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hallo Max. Machen Sie ein Bild mit den weiblichen Stiften, die Sie benötigen, um die Federschnalle zu überprüfen. Es gibt insgesamt 8 Stifte, die gleichen Stifte, bei denen Sie überprüfen müssen, ob die Stifte gut gelötet sind. Der Stecker, der zum Y-Schrittmotor führt, hat Stifte, sodass diese nicht überprüft werden müssen. Habe auf dem Bild notiert, welche Funktion sie haben. Auf dieser Site finden Sie viele Informationen über das Motherboard, das in Ihrem Drucker installiert ist: https://reprap.org/wiki/File:UltimakerPCB1.5.7.jpg Viel Glück. Torgeir.

Hallo MadMax, Da Sie viele Dinge ausprobiert haben, empfehle ich, die Leistungseinstellung auf der "Treiberplatine" auf der Y-Achse zu überprüfen. Wenn dies zu niedrig eingestellt ist, verliert der Schrittmotor Stufen. Dies kann in zufällige Richtungen geschehen, aber auch nur in eine Richtung. Sie können versuchen, die X- und Y "driver PCB" zu wechseln, um festzustellen, ob sich der Fehler bewegt. Ein Referenzspannungstest wird durchgeführt, um dem Schrittmotor die richtige Leistung zu verleihen. Viel Glück Torgeir

Hi Blizz, Right you are.. 265 % more E step. Your UM2+ use E369: So your new setting will be 369*2.65=977.85 ~ 978 New E step is 978. Send this string to you printer: M92 E978 (CR return) M500 (CR return) Printer will respond "stored" That's all. Good luck. Torgeir

Hi mrtinfy, Interesting hub you have here.. If I understand this right, -I would skip using brim and use PVA glue, this glue is sometimes a must in order to have success. Dilute the glue in water 1:(20-30). You just use a tiny layer and let it dry, sometimes you will need more than 1 layer, but be careful as it can make your print very hard to remove.. PVA glue is the withe colored glue we use for wood, so it should be easy to find. Use the heat bed heated and with this glue. Hmm., Don't you need support for the overhanging part on the outside of the hub? (On the part between the fan blade's root attachment.) Good luck Thanks Torgeir.

Hallo hille3d, Das Problem ist hier auf die Gesundheitsstrahlung von der warmen Platte zurückzuführen. Wenn Sie mit einem Überhang beginnen, der sich sehr nahe an der Platte befindet, ist dies normalerweise eine Folge davon. In Cura können Sie einen Rock verwenden, der breiter als Ihr Überhang und nahe an Ihrer Objektbasis ist. Auch die neuere Version von Cura hat eine neue Art der Verwendung von Krempe. Es wird ein Rand gedruckt, der vom Druckobjekt getrennt ist. Wenn Sie auf diese Weise einen Rock oder eine Krempe verwenden, wird die Wärmestrahlung von der Platte reduziert und ein kleiner Gegenstand sowie ein Überhang in der Höhe „gespart“. Eine andere Möglichkeit, dies zu vermeiden, besteht darin, einfach blaues Klebeband zu verwenden und nicht das Heidebett zu verwenden. Vielen Dank Torgeir

Hi passion4silence, Welcome in here. This one has been reported before in here, Just go to this tread: Thanks Torgeir

Hi tojero, I looked into your previous posting and found more information about your problems. In here you asked 3 questions, just continue this tread.. 1) "If you are printing 40 cubic mm per second you will indeed want the temp at 240C" So where did the example figure of 40mm^3/sec come from? Is that a spec of a 0.8mm nozzle? ----------------------------------------------------- Yes this is the 0.8 mm nozzle. 2) ".......try 0.3mm layer height, 0.8mm line width and 40mm/sec and 210C....." This implies a flow of around 10mm^3/sec. I'm assuming (from the temp) this would be using a 0.4mm nozzle. ----------------------------------------------------- No, this is also a 0.8 mm nozzle. (Here we use lower print speed and nozzle temperature in order to have nicer looking print.) 3) Is there an ideal printing volume flow (or range of) for each nozzle size and material? Would that be a good place to start from? ----------------------------------------------------- Use the default nozzle size: 0.4 mm Use the default print speed: 60 mm/sec. However for detailed printing we may go down to 30 mm/sec. -or even slower. Using PLA and default temperature 200 deg C. (Temperature might be lowered to 180-185 deg C.) The maximum flow for an UM2+ is typically 10 mm3/sec. When using 0.4 mm nozzle. Thanks Torgeir

Hi tojero, Your printer must be a UM2+, right? Ok. First thing first, get read of this filament, use a good known or “recommended” brand of PLA! What you describe here is not a printer issue, -but more likely a filament issue! In fact all of your issues point to filament property deviation. (as high water content. etc) Make sure that there is no remains in the heat block or nozzle when using other type of thermoplastic. At this site you will find material types recommended for Ultimaker printers: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility I’m sure you will see that an UM2+ can really deliver good quality 3D prints. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Cubic, You have certenly tried many thing in order to correct your problem. The problem with the thermocouple is of a special character. All this is because of the short distance between the “hot junction *)” and the “cold junction *)” in your, -well, the UMO design. Let me explain. Using a thermocouple to measure absolute temperature in a setup, ask for a special converter. This is true because a thermocouple is reading a temperature between two point *). This converter is mounted on the top of the UMO extruder. This converter measure the absolute temperature at the green terminal block where the thermocouple (red and yellow) wires is connected. This point is named “cold junction” point. Right here, it is really important to have good thermal and electrical contact here. Say you have a proper electrical contact here, you’ll read a proper voltage here, but temperature is still showing to high. As the temperature (that is transported via the wires from the close by extruder) is not evenly distributed to the “cold junction” point, the temperature read at this point will be wrong and will lead to “calculation error” of extruder absolute temperature. As the sensed temperature is lower than is should be the calculated temperature will show higher than the actual temperature. So I do not think you have an error in your thermocouple, most likely this is just because of little clamping effect at your “cold junction” terminal. Sure, it could be the compensator, but not likely. Just a small note, make a black mark on the extruder to measure with an IR detector, this is what we use in lab for calibrating measurment (ref black body). Ok good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi David, Very interesting this, first I do not have an S5 and neither an UM3 E. But I have a "custom" made UM2.. I've never seen this issue as you explain here, however all what you said make sense and happen. When you said "heat creep", I'll suppose the cold side of the extruder is not cold enough. Sure it is possible, -but this can also be a sign of another problem, the feeder. The problem I've seen is that when printing first levels and ironing, the pressure in the bowden tube increase. For an UM3 this will increase the drag forces, when the filament is pressed upward in the bowden tube. An S5 do not have much of this problem and this is because of the "track line" made by the knurled wheel is on the underside of the looped filament in this printer, while the UM3 types have the "track line" going on the to of the looped filament. This make a huge difference when printing with high pressure in the feeding system. I've many times been thinking, it mus be possible to just swap the two feeder units in order to have same feeding properties as an S5. Just leave the feeder motor (stepper) and swap just the feeder unit(?). This would not change anything in software or whatever, but just improve your UM3 allot.. Well, I do not if ultimaker already made this modification. Well, I did this in 2015 when I built my printer and been used the "inner track" all the time without any issues! Wish you good luck and hope you will have more inputs from the community about this problem. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Dan, Great findings, enjoy the printing in 3D world. If it have problem to move, just check the current the motor is set to, should be about 1200 mA.. Regards Torgeir.

Hi Dan, Voltages Ok., so lets check the wiring to the stepper motors. The pin 1 and pin 2 should have one of the steppers coil, -so pin 3 and 4 the other coil. You'll measure approx 2.0 ohm res. Different steppers might differ slightly. If there's was other fails another error might be seen, so after this part it is the servos to move and sync. Next after this we might have a look on the firmware you have. Torgeir

Hi NBull, I'd understand your situation, this print is really bad, -period! I could not really agree more with Smithy in his assumption, -I'm using Cura 3.6 and Cura Master by @burtoogle. When looking to this print, at first glance, -one would think this is disruptions.. But no -it is not, this “error” is consistent because it is the same happens for many layers, actually it’s looks like the line width changes at some point and does it for N numbers of layers and back again. Even around the corner you see this reduced line width. The only random in here is when it does it and when it stop doing this! For printer failure, a single line can vary much during a single full path so very much a random thing.. So, what can make the line width change, -hmm this should be an easy answer, shouldn't it? Why not give the older version a shot? Sure, I’d zoomed in to you print picture as good as possible. Here you can see some details, a real macro picture would speak clearly.. 🙂 Good Luck Thanks

Hi Spenter, Since this is the first startup of your system, there is a few thing to check.. First, did you install the two safety links? Those two link can be used to cutoff the 24VDC to all heaters and stepper motors. so if this one is missing, you would not have power to the stepper motors to move. During the setup the Z stepper will move toward the z-stop in order to synchronize. If this voltage is not present, no movement of the bed toward the stop, so after a timeout the Z-switch fail is flagged and it will display; "Z switch broken". When turning on the power switch for the printer, you should be able to hear a solid click when the relay is activating. To verify that this voltage is present, do as follows: Also the 24 VDC "switch" the (only one) relay K1 might be faulty, check the TP21 (Test Point) for 24 VDC on the underside of the PCB. You will find the test point close to the heater connector. I'll assume you know how to do this procedure. Lets do this check as a start. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi Cosmin, So, sound is still there when moving the X-axe. What I notice is that the upper pulley on both the X and Y belt from the stepper motors is touching one side of the pulley guide-wall. After some time the surface on the pulley guide wall become very well polished and the friction here, will make it "singing" so to say. "Normally" a belt should never rest on the guide wall at the pulley on both sides of a belt they share. This is very important on short belts. Then check that the belts do not touch guide wall on the stepper pulleys. Also worth to notice is that if the stepper pulley is too much offset v.s. the upper pulley, you can see the belt will twist a little when mowing the extruder head. Actually twist one way for moving right and the other when moving left. Correction here must be done at the pulley on the stepper (adjusting more in, or more out). I sure agree with @NovaStarGX about axis side offset as such offset give lots of friction and make the stepper work hard and 9 mm is a lot of offset. Ok. you have lots of suggestions so good luck with fault finding. Thanks Torgeir

Hi thelemurking, Just been looking and listening to the sound of your printer and must say this is kind of weird.. Sounds reminds about faulty bearing in a stepper motor, however, this could also be something loose inside the extruder unit, as those stepper motors is quite robust. If you move the extruder manually back and forth in X-axis (printer not powered up), is this sound still present in a way. (This sound seems to be worst in the X-axe.) When moving the head manually, there should be just an even humm without any other strange additional sound.. Kind of difficuld to explain using word.. Also, is there any play when you hold the extruder at the lo end, pushing carefully in X-axis and Y-axis. There should be no play when doing this. When the two bearing inside the extruder become worn you may find a little play here. The sound we can hear here comes from the "small stepping" resonance that makes such a strange sound. A stethoscope can be handy for faultfinding such problem. My best guess is something in the extruder, as this is not a belt problem I'll think. How many hour have those two been printing? Good luck. Thanks Torgeir.