UlrichC-DE

Printing with PLA for a demonstration is a good thing. Ultimaker ABS and CPE would also be suitable for a safe demonstration. Both filaments have the property that they adhere well to the plate. Demonstration always sounds like a 100% solution. Hence the thought. Practically, you can also print temporarily with just the second printhead as an alternative. I and probably the others answer posts on occasion and in context. The exchange helps me keep my own production running and improve. I can recommend, because that saves time. Wish you good luck

Hallo des isch ja grad des, bei funktioniert es ja auch. Vielleicht zieht er bei mir oder bei dir eine Ländereinstellung im System. Wenn man auf seinem System bleibt, fällt das ja nicht weiter auf. Jedenfalls könnte ich die Datei jetzt so fräsen oder den Laser anschmeisen. Ok, danke für die Info. Viele Grüße

In various cases it is the following problem: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011527340-Check-for-residue-in-the-front-fan-of-the-print-head But that did not come up here, because I initially assumed that it is a new printer. Many greetings

I also have this problem. However, I only know it with printers that are in the cold. If the objects are large and higher than one cm. Therefore I had explained it in such a way. The object cools down faster in the cold and contracts against the thermal expansion. The contraction varies depending on the material. And the greater the temperature difference, the greater the effect. In addition, there is a kind of leverage effect at cold temperatures. Because the object does not cool down evenly, but in the upper area first. The residual heat of the plate and, in particular, the lack of air circulation between the plate and the object prevent uniform cooling. As a result, the surface of the print object cools down and contracts. The edges are torn from the plate and the walls and structures of the object act as levers. Because the plate is still warm at the time and there is good object adhesion, it cracks. At warmer temperatures, the effect is diminished. Even if you take the plate out of the printer immediately after printing, or even put it in the refrigerator, the effect is not as strong.

The BASF PAHT CF15 and the Ultimaker PA print well with the material station. The only problem I have noticed with the filaments is that the deprime of the MS does not work cleanly. For me, I have observed this as follows. When unloading, the material gets stuck. With PA in every case with PA-CF in every second case. The wizard for manual unloading must then be run through. But these are only my own experiences.

I would try to tune the printer settings in relation to the individual sensors. For example, if you set the temperature 25% lower, it is then evident from the result that it is the ADC of the board. This would mean that the printer always prints 25% too warm. Unfortunately, electronics is basically very analog. Such errors are possible.

Theoretically you can reconnect the motor driver. If you have an additional or unused motor output stage on the board. In the mapping of the software config.h you can turn that. Here in the forum you can search for it. If it is possible with your board. I have not had to do that yet. But I think the user for example aka @tinkergnome knows more. I also don't know where you can get a board. Is a question of country and the next official support.

I have installed an small air humidity meter. As a reference value is the NiceToHave

I always wanted to do that too. But unfortunately I have no balcony 😇 Often the feeder is set too tight. Well, the feeders have a set screw and screw is fun. But the feeders of the UM work most reliably in the middle position. Otherwise, the feeder becomes clogged. A cork forms. The phenomenon is then. Goes well at first. Then comes less. Eventually nothing comes at all. Another phenomenon is. The print head cleaning is completed in the few steps. The PTFE tubes are nice, but I would not recommend for the S5. They are unfortunately a bit larger inside. With TPU or Shore 60 materiallien it works less. The unload of the head can also be disturbed by the larger diameter. So I would see this more as a trial than a real update. I hope this helps a little. But there are other people here with better ideas.

Hallo und willkommen im Forum. Der Gute meint vermutlich die Profileinstellung . Im Einstiegsmodus sieht das so aus-> Würde in jedem Fall in "Custom" arbeiten. Das sieht dann so aus -> Das Engineering (in grauer Schrift) Profil ist nicht für alle Druckdüsen und Materialien verfügbar. AA0.4 und PLA geht aber. Es druckt etwas langsamer als der Normalmodus. Reale Wunder würde ich mir von dem Modus nicht erwarten. Abhängig von der Größe der Abweichung kann man mit dem Ergebnis aber näheres schreiben. Wünsche viel Erfolg

I have also had this error more often. I can not say for sure. But I suspect that it is a consequence of an overload of the air manager. With me it was noticeable that I had the problem in each case when the humidity was high or the filter was already somewhat clogged. I print long prints meanwhile most without filter. So Aimanager and fan are then active. But without filter paper. So far this works well. Why the printer crashes completely every time is also a mystery to me. The airmanager has no big influence on the print quality and also not on the security of the printer. Therefore, I think the crash of the printer is the whim of a programmer.

Vermutlich schon. DXF hat ja theoretisch keine reale Skalierung. Das müssen also nich zwingend mm oder inch sein. In deinem Fall vl. Ellen Fuß oder Klafter.😇 Bei mir sieht das im CAM so aus: Ist Vectric VCarve -kostet leider auch Geld-. Wenn ich das dort repaiere und von dort aus wieder Exportiere also DXF zu DXF ist es auch von den Konturen her richtig. Anbei als ZIP. Wenn ich ein DXF aus FreeCAD exportiere, macht er meist alle Ansichten auf eine 2D-Ebene. Wobei er bei den Step von UM so schlau ist nur eine Ansicht ins DXF zu übernehmen. Vermutlich liegt das daran wie das Step aufgebaut ist. Das PlugIn ist gut und einer der Gründe warum ich auf der alten Version hängen geblieben bin. Fusion360 oder Solid. Wenn man nicht bezahlen möchte muss ist wohl beides in Grenzen kostenlos. Wenn man dafür bezahlen muss. Dann doch eher Solid. 1002-A2P-A-ref.zip

Ich habe hierfür die V0.16 mit dem DXF Plugin installiert. Ob das die aktuelle Version (die das Plugin nicht benötigt) noch kann weiß ich nicht. Anbei ein Beispiel. Es gibt vermutlich noch mehr Wege für diesen Arbeitsschritt. STEP und DXF haben zumindest noch Geometrie. Die würde ich mir gerne bewahren. Vielleicht ist Estlcam schlauer, aber je nach CAM Software kommt nach STL eine Kontur aus Punkten heraus. 1002-A2P-A.zip

Es gibt auch Rollenhalter die das ausrechnen. Habe zuletzt so eine Wanhao Box 2 getestet. Für den eigentlichen Zweck (Filament trocknen) ist die zwar nur mittelmäßig geeignet aber das Wiegen läuft zuverlässig. Mit einer leeren Rolle kann man die Waage nullen. Das spezifische Gewicht und Durchmesser kann man einstellen. Dannach liefert das Gerät jeweils die verbleibende Länge.

STEP ist 3D mit Geometrie STL ist 3D als Mesh (nur Außenhaut) DXF ist 2D Freecad kann zB. das umwandeln von STEP in 2D DXF ganz gut. Wobei ich dafür auch manchmal mit CAD-CAM Software arbeite. Die Reparaurfunktionen sind bei CAD-CAM meistens etwas besser.

?! also du hast einen Nachrichtenaustausch mit einem gewissen Gerd. Vermutlich über PM. Bevor jetzt noch die Urlaubsfotos kommen. Das hier ist das öffentliche Forum 😇

That's the trick. I also do it that way. I have cores for individual filament types that I print more often. Nevertheless, I have a few cores that I would have to clean. That doesn't stay away. I need a little longer on average. Rather 10 minutes because the bundle sometimes refuses. Filter change, and mother material station.

Ich habe auch noch die 6.4 installiert. 🙂

Thanks anyway for your report. This has reminded me again to pay a little more attention to the Athesion in the near future. Hope the damage continues to keep within limits. Many greetings

Yes ASA is a devil's stuff and the printcore is history. For the ASA on the flap, a pair of pliers and a hot air dryer will help. I would try to exert as little force on the flap as possible. If the something is bent, the closing of the flap no longer works. I would put the plate in a vise. Then I would use a hot air gun to heat the plate and pull out the print core at the same time. Wish you much success and also some luck!

Hallo, das das Filament nicht automatisch umgehend und vollständig entladen wird, "war schon immer so". Eine vollständige entladung geschieht jeweils eine geraume Zeit nach dem Druck automatisch. Seit einer der jüngeren Versionen (3-4Mon), wird das Filament ca. 5cm über dem Druckkopf geparkt. Zuvor wurde es nur ein zwei Zentimeter aus der Düse gefahren. Über das Menue der MS kann man das Filament mittlerweile auch manuell entladen. (Filament Change) Viele Grüße

I guess there are several factors that speak against changing the code. The main reason is that it can be problematic to print at sub-zero temperatures. Layer adhesion, glass plates and unfortunately also the low performance of the printer. I guess you can't even get the print bed up to temperature depending on the filament. If the heating cartridge and heating board are too weak, they will run the whole time. The printer doesn't have to do that. I think the construction is not designed for that. It's all very thin-walled for quick heat-up correct and cool-down. For sub-zero temperatures, I think the print head should have more metal and more power. The heating board is also too weak for sub-zero temperatures. If there is too much cold coming from outside, the measurement of the PT100 may also be too inaccurate for printing. The values are point values that are close to the heating elements, but only close to them. Better fan heater. In my estimation.

compile new software at 30F in the van. This is real van life. This sounds somehow familiar to me 😆

As written, I always collect the clogged cores. Then I do a cleaning day once a year. If then half of the cores work properly again, it saves time.

I would check the contact first. I have not had the problem myself and read this for the first time. Vl. comes here still one with a better idea around the corner.