Carbon

Try printing with a "Brim"

We are experiencing a similar problem on our S5, whereby the "Active Levelling....." throws up an error. The button is pressed to tell the printer the part has been removed, then then printer asks, "Do you want to print again?", we then press YES, and "Auto Levelling is fine after that. It ALWAYS occurs after the printer has been inactive for a day or so.......the nozzle is free from plastic and is also clean. Only started to occur after Cura Version: 4.13.0

Select "ALL" mode: Then enter "Angle Value" into here:

Agreed with what @orlin278 said. Even with an AA0.25 nozzle this still won't print.

👍 You're Welcome.

It looks like the "text" has not been converted to stl. I've tried to apply text using SolidEdge and saved as an stl file (attached) and it looks ok. Unnamed-_840960444_roundovertemplate9_12001 (Solid).stl

Could it be the "Core" to "Glass" setting? Looks to me like the core is too close and squashing filament....

This may help.....

Ultimaker TPU 95A at 100% infill density. https://ultimaker.com/materials/tpu-95a

In that case, cut off the material above the print core. Once you're back up and running, heat up the print cores manually to remove the cut off.

Heat both print cores manually to around 200°C. Release both of the feeder clamps at the rear of the machine, turn off the printer (switch at rear) and remove the power cable from the material station, then simply pull the material through the tubes from the material station side. Check both filaments for damage ( i'd just cut off what was in the tubes and start a fresh...). Replace the material station power cord, turn on the S5 and it should be good to go. Note: Speaking from experience, this may or may not be the correct procedure, but this has happened several times before and has worked every time.

As long as the "base" and "lettering" are different STL files this is possible.... First, go into "PREFERENCES" on the menu bar in Cura, in the "GENERAL" section, UN-TICK "Automatically drop models to build plate" Then simply move to desired position. Using "arrows" or "co-ordinates". TIP: Make sure the Z height is correct, as too low and it'll hit the base. Too high it'll miss. If you know the physical height of the base, I'd just type it in.... Hope this helps.....

We use this quite a lot, both in Blue and Red. Not very often do we print pure TPU parts, but we infuse it with PC and PET-G, here are a few pics: PET-G with TPU: PC and TPU: (top item PEG-G + TPU bottom part PC + TPU) We have found that it bounds slightly better with PC ( although PC is limited to AA0.8mm nozzle...)

We've had the same problem. Only started to happen since Cura 4.11.0

Have you tried various / different positions on the glass / base plate? Does it still do the same? Some helpful info already in the forum, here's a recent post:

Just delete this profile from explorer:

Got this to work a treat, thanks for creating. 👍 On a side note, I can only get this to work on "Dongle", when I plug in the mouse for charging, the plug in stops working.....any ideas? Cura 4.10.0 3DConnexion version versions: 3DxWare 10.7.4.3350, 3DxWinCore 17.7.4.18504

This is how we store ours at the moment...

Managed to do it, thanks.....👍 Changed the logo on the back / base of the buildplate too:

That list is a big help, thank you ahoeben 👍 wall_line_width_x does not appear in the Metadata I have..... I'm trying to change the "Light Green" background to "Black".....

Trying to generate a different colour scheme (just to be different.....) Any idea what this "FIELD" is called in the Metadata?

Changing the "IN-FILL" density of the support material will help.

It's only the brass element that's heated, if the filament is stuck higher up the nozzle, an additional heat source is needed. Try a hot pull using PLA first, failing that.... Try heating the top end of the nozzle with a heat gun. heat the nozzle in the printer to 270°C, remove it from the printer, taking care not to touch the nozzle itself (the printer will throw up an error when core is removed, but......) Then heat the top part with a heat gun say about 100°C and try a top pull.

The thermometer inside the printer, how much difference is there compared to the Digital Factory readings? I'm curious....