gr5

Send the filament back! Seriously. Don't open the box so you can get a refund. So I have converted some printers (and undone the conversion) and I have customers who are happy with the conversion. 3dsolex has a solution that works. At least for the left bowden. The feeder itself is fine as is. The UM3/S3/S5 feeders can all work with 1.75 filament just fine as far as I remember. It's the hot end that can't deal. The filament will just come backup up out of the core at the same time as out the nozzle and make a mess inside the print core. However 3dsolex has a special 1.75mm print core and they have changable nozzles (nice) so you can get from 0.1mm nozzles up to around 2mm (maybe? Maybe only 1.5mm? I forget). But the solution isn't fantastic. You have to do some trickery with the bowden - it's a double bowden and the inner bowden goes down inside the print core so changing the print core involves removing the bowden (really only takes an extra 30 seconds but still). More importantly the solution doesn't work so well on the right side so you have to do hack solutions to get it to work with 1.75 on the left and 3mm on the right core. I know a guy who got it working on the right core using a special spring so that the right core can go up and down and the inner bowden can go up and down with the core but I'm not sure exactly where to get the right spring (you want 4mm O.D. spring with 2mm I.D. so the 1.75mm filament can pass throught the spring). And despite all this you have to do weird things with cura like shown above. Or you have to set the flow in cura to (2.85mm/1.75mm)^2 which is 265%. So you have to set the flow to 265% if you can't figure out how to get cura to realize the left core is using 1.75mm filament. Setting the flow to 265% has other repurcussions - the initial purge might under purge. Retractions might use the flow feature (although I think not). Minor things that aren't a show stopper but there are repurcussions. And if instead you modify the S5 machine profile to accept 1.75mm filament and you upgrade Cura you will probably have to do all the modifications again. SO MUCH EASIER to just use "3mm" or "2.85mm" filament. Sometimes people complain "I can't get than in 3mm". Well I always prove them wrong. Unless it's some obscure color, every material out there on the planet is available (usually from the same manufacturer) in both sizes. Every obscure material. One exception I suppose is prusament which is for prusa printers which is only 1.75mm. BUT YOU CAN DO IT! Contact 3dsolex by email: sales@3dsolex.com. They will sell you a 1.75 printcore at no extra cost. The ONLY customer I know who did this permanently and for good reason did it because he makes his own filament and the 3mm filament was too brittle and cracks in the bowden but the 1.75mm filament works great. This is a very obscure filament made from Boron or something similar - I forget the details. It's a very very niche usage.

I am assured that the S5 can do pause at height just fine and it clearly properly adds the M0 command into the code as shown by Greg. So it should work. But if you say it doesn't work of course it doesn't work. Is this possibly a new bug with the latest firmware that hasn't been reported yet? Did this issue start when you upgraded the S5 firmware? Or maybe you didn't do it quite right? Sometimes people get layer number and layer mm confused. I would print a 5 minute print - maybe a 10mm hollow cube. And see if it's pausing properly. Don't waste an hour long (or many hour long) print to test if pause at height is still broken.

As a workaround there is also a gcode that pauses for some specified number of seconds. You can manually insert some gcodes to move the head to 0,0, wait a few seconds and then go back to where it left off. If all you are doing is inserting some metal part hopefully you only need a few seconds.

I think you mean "pause at height", right? Should I fix the title of this topic for you? @Dim3nsioneer - I have lost track. Does gcode pausing work on S5? I can't remember which printers it works and which it does not. Well I'm pretty sure it works on the UM2. I have an S5 but I have never tried this feature on my UM3 nor S5. I know it doesn't work on certain printers and certain firmware versions.

I don't know BVOH but the trick with PVA is to keep it very dry. It absorbs water quickly (similar to nylon filaments). So even a 10 hour print might be doing worse at the end of the print. Certainly a few days having the spool on the back of the printer is going to "ruin" it. But you can easily dry PVA. i do it by unspooling the amount I need and sitting it on the heated bed with the spool on top and put a towel over all of that (and usually a blanket also) and letting it bake for 4 hours around 70C. I bought a liter of dessicant beads (color changing - they change color when they need recharging). I put about 1/2 cup of the dessicant beads in a container with holes inside a 2 gallon zip lock and store the PVA in there. Even with all that I often have to re-dry the PVA. You can tell if PVA is wet because you can see steam coming out of the nozzle when you first load the filament and extrude a little.

Thanks, I updated the gr5.org/unbricking/ page. This makes more sense now.

It's most likely that the nozzle is too far from the glass but it could also be that you got some grease on the glass. Maybe from your fingers. It's probably time to clean that glass with soap and water to remove all oils.

Some people call that "warping" but you are correct in that it is basically an adhesion problem. The upper layers cool and contract and pull very strongly and that lifts the corners up off the bed. The fix is adhesion. So adhesion improvements are done with: brim or rounded corners, squish, heat, glues. You can do some or all of the techniques. I have much greater detail in this long but comprehensive video so I'll just give you a few bits of advice here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k squish - the S5 does autoleveling and does a good job with squish. You could increase "initial layer flow" from 100% to 150% but I wouldn't bother. corners - how sharp are the corners? If sharp then all the force is on a single tiny point at the corner of your print. Can you round them (change the CAD)? If not maybe add some brim which is even better than rounding the corners at stopping lifted corners but somewhat annoying to remove. heat - nylon is unusual in that it gets more and more flexible as it gets warmer up until around 120C where it melts. Flexibility helps spread the forces and keep corners from lifting (effectively the entire corner area of the print warps just ever so slightly and spreads the lifting forces to a larger area of the print). So try heating the bed 10 or even 20C hotter than the default profile. The only drawback is you have to wait another minute or so for the bed to heat up that much more. Just keep the bed below 110C. I think the default bed temp for nylon is usually 70C so try 85C. Nylon is noticeably more flexible at 85 versus 70C and is less likely to warp up off the table. glues - this is the most important thing. You might want to invest in a few types of Magigoo (they have different types for different materials). Personally I use Elmer's wood glue mixed with water (about 20 to 1) and paint that on the glass print bed, heat the bed to printing temp and wait for it to dry. If you must use glue stick then also remove it with a wet tissue to make the glue stick layer very thin. Less is more when it comes to these types of glues (more glue means less sticking to the bed). My video shows me applying various types of bed adhesion, shows how I do leveling, explains the issues with diagrams and so on. You should skip all the leveling details (squish) as that part the S5 does quite well.

People have been asking this for about 10 years now. It's cheaper to ship something from china than to ship something to my neighbor across the street. For each country's national postal system, each one sets the cost of outgoing international shipping. The receiving country doesn't get any money. Once per year the countries meet and decide which country owes which country how much. Always the decision was just to not worry about it. For about 100 years this was an advantage to USA as we shipped more than we received. But now it is a huge advantage to China. International outgoing shipping from USA costs about $14 for a PCB that weighs less than 8 ounces. From China to other countries I'm not sure what it is but it is less than $1.

I wouldn't call it warping. That term is used to describe so many things. So here is what happens. When you melt plastics such as PLA and other plastics, most of them (especially PLA) stick to themselves even when liquid. Like snot. Like mucus. All of these materials shrink a little when they cool and they cool in the first few milliseconds as they exit the nozzle. Fast! At least initially. And so the liquid filament is under tension. Like a stretched liquid rubber band. As this snot like plastic goes down it is pulling inwards so outside corners especially get pulled inwards. This is also the reason why vertical holes are always smaller than in the CAD model. The problem is worse near a heated bed. As it gets to cooler air it slowly recovers. That's where the wall is angling back out. I would enclose the front but not the top. And for PLA don't even enclose the front. PETG is relatively safe. Safer than say being in a mcdonalds with all those fryer fumes. Which is also pretty safe. Now as far as tests. You don't need to print a 2 hour print! Try to find tests that only take 10 minutes. The longer a test takes, the fewer you are going to print. If you can make 5 tests in 2 hours think of how much more valuable that is! That's why I said 10mm cube and not a 30mm test cube (9 times more volume, 9 times slower).

Well if you are in a print now then you got it working and you are all set??

You can usually prove this is the problem instantly by pushing up on the bed while it is printing the first layer.

If the first layer isn't sticking the most common issue is that the nozzle and the bed are too far apart. So you need to learn how to "level" the bed on that printer model. Usually there is a procedure you run on the printer. Sometimes it involves moving things from the controller. Sometimes it also involves moving leveling screws. Every printer is a little different.

@Fulv - I don't think I have ever printed ASA and it's not on the Ultimaker list of common materials (maybe because it's very difficult to print?) but I heard that it's similar to ABS. So the trick to ABS is to be above it's softening temp. I would put a bit of filament on the heated bed under a towel and try different temps until it softens significantly. Supposedly this is at 105C. Then I would make sure the bed is slightly above this temp so probably at 110C. This will greatly reduce the lifting forces as often parts come loose at the corners first. Also use brim. Also make sure it's squishing the bottom layer thoroughly Also use a wet tissue and spread around the gluestick (and also remove most of it). With gluestick, the thinner the layer, the more parts stick to it (counter intuitive). Although obviously when all the gluestick is gone it stops working.

By the way you should change support placement from "everywhere" to "touching buildplate. You don't need any support on all the "windows". You only need it in these 4 holes shown below. This will save you material, time, and cleanup, and reduce ugliness.

I'm not sure. I've seen that pattern a lot - it's usually caused by heat. It goes away as you get farther from the heated bed. But why doesn't the lid do it? Well it does. It's just not as obvious. But for many materials you need the heated bed above the softening temp of the material being printed (not sure if I ever printed ASA) so that it won't warp off the print bed. I'm not sure if I remember right but I think UM recommends print sheets for ASA? Or am I confusing with some other material. If you use print sheets you can probably lower the bed temp by 10 or 20C to see if that pattern goes away. I guess I would print a small test cube. Smaller models don't have as serious problems warping/lifting off the bed. Maybe 10mm cube. Print with existing settings and then lower print bed by 10C and try again and then lower another 10C and try again. That pattern should go away if it is heat related. Do your side fans work okay at 50% (that's your cura fan setting)? Maybe they don't work when lowered to 50%? On my printer the fans are still at 100% power when you set them to 50% so I'm not sure what the person who designed this profile was thinking. On my printers you have to go down to 10% before the RPMs start slowing but your print needs more fan if anything. not less fan.

No problem! It's a time/money tradeoff. Are you willing to spend 4 hours (or more) using the unbricking techniques that can get around bad blocks on your main board or are you willing to just buy a new board.

Glue stick isn't difficult. If I use gluestick then I just put a little on and then take a wet tissue and spread it all around (and also the bonus is this removes 90% of the excess glue). If I don't want the part to stick too much then I put on lots of glue stick and don't remove any of it.

@Jasonjason - I mix elmer's wood glue with water. Very roughly 20 parts water to 1 part wood glue. I put it in a jar and shake it up good. Then remove the lid and use a dedicated paint brush to paint the glass. This tends to last about 10 to 100 prints before I recoat. Every year or two I soak the glass in warm water and laboriously scrub everything off then when it looks 100% clean I do one final cleaning with glass cleaner and then am very careful not to touch the glass until recoated.

To summarize some of the information above, if cura is running really slow, try 1) disconnecting your computer from all networks - it may be looking for printers or it may be looking for removable drives. Obviously this isn't a permanent solution. But it can lend hints as to the underlying problem. 2) Try disconnecting all USB devices except maybe (maybe!) mouse or keyboard. it may be looking for USB connected printers. 3) Try running in administrator mode. It may see a device but not be able to allocate it due to security 4) Try disabling all firewalls and similar security software (it may be locking out certain files that Cura needs) 5) Try posting the log file on the forum. Cura runs just fine for over a million users every day.

@csarachene this is really valueable information. If someone else has an S5 that won't boot should they try completely disconnecting the cable to the print head? Will it then boot? How did you end up diagnosing? How would you recommend someone else diagnose this (without first ordering and replacing the print head PCB?

@CarloK - you once told me that all the S5 printers have "nand" memory yet in the screen shot above this person seems to have "eMMC" memory. I also have eMMC memory on my S5 although it is a pre-release beta S5 so not a great data point. Could it be that all S5s actually have the eMMC and you were wrong or I somehow misunderstood? One of the many reasons I ask this is that people who are very good at soldering have asked me which lime2 board to get and I repeated your advice but that's for a lime2 with nand. These people said they would unsolder certain connectors and move the usb connector from the broken board to the new board in order to get their S5 running again with minimal expense.

It's actually pretty rare. I think. I have 5 active Ultimaker printers all with the same type of bowden material and same clips and have not had any slips in probably 7 years. Although as far as I'm concerned, the more sensors the better!!!

Aus Ihrer Beschreibung geht hervor, dass Sie den falschen (oder keinen) USB-Serial-Arduino-Treiber haben. Googlen Sie im Internet nach einem Arduino-Treiber und geben Sie die Windows-Version an, die Sie haben. Wenn Sie den Drucker anschließen, sollte der Geräte-Manager einen COM-Anschluss anzeigen. (übersetzt von google translate)

You have lots of choices. 1) Glue. Well the thinner the glue, the stronger it sticks. So try adding more glue. Use glue stick instead of the really good glues. Having a thick layer of glue allows more space to release the part from the bed. 2) Bed temp - don't mess with this setting! If you lower the bed temp at all you are likely to have warping issues. 3) Squish - the strongest thing affecting adhesion is "squish". But on the S5 you aren't allowed to control the auto leveling. So there is a hack - you can set the initial layer flow to something much less than 100%. Say 70%. You would have to experiment though with several prints. 4) Brim. Switch adhesion from brim to skirt instead. 5) option five: Enjoy the stick - don't do 1,2,3,4 and instead buy a tool. I use a putty knife. A small one. And I sharpened one corner with a file or you could use some kind of grinder to sharpen part or all of the putty knife. I remove parts from the bottom using the putty knife. From the bottom so you don't damage the part. I often place it carefully then wack it hard with the palm of my other hand.