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geert_2

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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. This is a good This is a good idea, worth remembering. This concept could be usefull for lots of other models too.
  2. One extra note: if you use a thin, slow-curing silicone for casting, be sure that the lower half of the mould is absolutely water-tight. Silicone slowly creeps into the tiniest openings, even only microns wide, and would leak away. With thick, fast curing silicones, this is less of a problem, as they are already cured before they have time to leak away. If there are non-watertight seams, you can close them with plasticine or wax. Another option is to make the whole mould out of plasticine. Be sure to use non-sulphur plasticine, as sulphur inhibits curing of silicone. I
  3. The little rear fan (nozzle-cooling) should always be on when printing (when the nozzle is above 40°C). If not, check if there are no hairs and strings of filament or dust stuck in it. Check the connections and wires. If the bearings would be worn-out, or the wires broken, replace.
  4. If you say the fan is "making noises", it could be: - There are filament hairs and strings stuck into it, hindering the rotation. - Or the fan bearings are worn-out. This was very common on similar CPU-fans in older computers (286-386-etc.). If you don't have a replacement yet, you can extend the life of the fan a little bit by lubricating the bearings: using a needle, cut through the silver label covering the bearing, and then inject a drop of bearing oil into it. This is obviously not a permanent solution, but I did use this quite often on computer fans in the old days,
  5. Good. And yes, this technology will come with its own new learning curve. I also like the fine details. I can imagine that for juwelry or very small railroad models, etc., this is fantastic. In the beginning such resins tended to get brittle after exposure to the sun, because it was UV- or light-cured, and it kept curing further. Also in the beginning, freshly printed parts were subject to creep deformation on heavy loads. You had to let them post-cure first. This was years ago, and I don't know how things evolved since then. But it might be a good idea to test this on a couple of
  6. Have you checked if the nozzle cooling fan is working? If not, this would give this phenomena. On an UM2 this is the little fan behind the nozzles; but I am not sure where it is on an UM3. Occasionally this fan may suck up hairs and strings of filament, and get stuck.
  7. Maybe from another computer you could recover a dedicated graphics card, and put that into your computer? Or use older Cura versions? Depending on what you want to print, on which machine (e.g. on older UM-printers), this might be sufficient?
  8. I have heard that there should be absolutely no broken-off bits and pieces of previous models left in the vat, because that would ruin the next prints. Maybe that is why they empty and clean the vat? And sift the resin? But I have no personal experience, except for seeing it once. And yes, the "mess" and chemicals were some of the main reasons why we chose for FDM back then... But I think you would best search a dedicated resin-printing forum for this, they are going to have way more experience and tips.
  9. Looks good. The "cold" metal suits this model. Instead of plating, have you ever tried automobile "chrome" painting sprays? Not the "metalic" sort with little flakes, but the real "chrome" look spray-cans? The sort that is used on car bumpers, wheels, and decorative chrome stripings? I have seen it on model cars, but I have never used it myself, so I don't know what preparation is required, nor how well it withstands bending, temperature, weather, etc. Migth be worth trying on a scrap piece.
  10. Als de "verbrande stukjes" eruit zien als kleine zwarte schilfertjes, dan komen ze wellicht uit de nozzle: dan is die van binnen aangekoekt en moet je die reinigen met "atomic pulls". Zoek hier ergens op de Ultimaker-site. Of kijk even naar mijn soortgelijke maar veel zachtere methode hier (en dan een beetje omlaag scrollen): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Als de verbrande dingen eruit zien als lichtbruine smurrie, in een blob op de print, dan komt dat waarschijnlijk van de buitenkant van de nozzle: soms blijft daar materiaal tegenaan kleven, en
  11. Or maybe try the opposite, reduce the current to let's say 900mA? Then the problem should get way worse if friction is the cause. But I think this would give less risk of damaging the electronics? But anyway, if it is friction, you should be able to feel it by hand, by moving around the head manually with the printer off. Further, if I remember well, there was an old UM2-series that had wrong resistors, causing a too high current, which in turn caused the drivers to get too hot, and temporarily shutting the chip down? I had this effect a couple of times on the Z-axis of one of my U
  12. I don't have dual-nozzle printers, so I can't help with your question. However, another thing: if you want the vase to be water-tight, be sure to print it slow and in very thin layers. In thick layers of 0.3mm this filter housing had lots of tiny holes, through which the water jetted out. In 0.06mm layers, it was perfectly water-tight. I printed this in a single material (PLA); but dual materials is even more difficult to get watertight.
  13. Thanks. Yes, this already gives a good understanding of the orientation.
  14. Thanks, this is a good idea. My current activator is not a spray, but a pen with felt tip, like a fluo marker pen. But I could probably apply it to the outer edge only, where glue would ooze out indeed, to get the same effect. I will try next time.
  15. Long ago I made a font for my 3D-texts. But this was in DesignSpark Mechanical's RSDOC-format only, as I didn't know how to make a real font-file. Recently a guy by the name Jason Chall has turned part of this character set into *real font-files*. Thanks! See here on Github or Thingiverse: - https://github.com/pbz/geert-font - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4160261/files My originals in DesignSpark Mechanical format "RSDOC" are still here (sroll down a bit): - https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ I have
  16. Could it be that you selected the wrong printer in Cura, or whatever slicer you used? Or its bed dimensions in Cura got corrupted? Or else: defective SD-card, corrupt gcode files, hairs or dust in the SD-slot causing bad contacts (try blowing it out with compressed air)? Or something else along this line...?
  17. Yes, I would welcome videos on your techniques. Thanks.
  18. You would need to sit next to the printer and keep watching. My guess is that the bed is not perfectly clean, and/or the glue (if you use glue for bonding) is not spread equally. So the printed sausage does not stick perfectly. In such cases, I have seen these printed lines lifting a little bit on the outer edge. And then, on the next pass of the nozzle in the opposite direction, they would be melted again and be pushed against the bed again. If the bed-adhesion is not identical everywhere, this could cause similar irregular patterns. Filament with silver or glossy part
  19. Wow, print quality and smoothness is impressive, especially the teeth. Did you use supports for the fins? I was trying to see in which orientation you printed it, but I can't see the layer lines. :-) The color, is that colorFabb's translucent orange?
  20. Is this also present Cura's layer view? If yes, it is most likely a Cura software-issue. If no, it is most likely a printer hardware-issue (which I think it is): or the motor is missing steps due to too much friction, or some pulley is sliding over its shaft instead of gripping it, as gr5 said. The "too much friction" can be identified by moving the head with your hands: this should go smoothly and evenly in both directions. If you almost can't move it by hand in one direction, then the motors can't either. I had this once when a new oil I used for lubricati
  21. Hoi Sander, a question: what are the "cover photo" and "member title" fields in our profile? Is that the profile photo or avatar on each post? Or where do these show up if we add them?
  22. I haven't printed with nylon yet, thus no personal experience. So I can't say if the improved flexibility and toughness of nylon would outweight the disadvantages of poorer bed-adhesion, warping, and layer-bonding? This might greatly depend on the model and application. You will have to try. If it was for myself, I think I would start with PET and see if that works well enough. Or I might even start with PLA to get the model and fit right, and then switch to PET for the "production version" that has to survive.
  23. For snap-fit locking mechanisms, or for carabiner hooks, I use PET. This is flexible enough to survive multiple slight bendings, and it does not easily deform permanently. PET is less susceptible to creep deformation due to permanent loads than PLA, although just like any plastics, there is creep. PET is still relatively easy to print. PLA is not suitable: at first it may survive such snap-fits. But after a while it gets harder and more brittle, and then it will start to crack, or it might just break. And it has too much permanent creep deformation under load. If you wo
  24. I always do remove the old end, yes. And then I use those remains for atomic pulls to clean the nozzle, so they are not wasted. But I use a more gentle atomic pull method than the official, without brutal pulling. See the manual here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ I have tried welding new and old filaments together. Technically this works, but it is so much hassle that it is not worth the effort for me. Unless you would have a long and complex print that you don't want to restart, or you would waste way too much material. But I don't have these
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