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geert_2

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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. For my UM2, I made a nozzle scraper from steel spring wire, after an idea from another user. The very hard inox wire that is also used in dental appliances. In 99% of cases, this works perfectly. Since it is a spring, it moves away when the nozzle moves over it. It doesn't cause any damage.
  2. I also drill out the holes, with this tool. It only costs a couple of euro/dollar in any tool shop. This gives good feeling and control. Do it manually, not electrically, otherwise everything melts (don't ask how I know).
  3. Hope you can read English? To let the model cool and solidify, the head needs to be moved away indeed. But while sitting elsewhere, it should keep printing at the same flow rate, so the material in the nozzle keeps the same temperture and viscosity. So I often print a dummy model next to the real one, that has a complementary shape. So the total printing time per layer is always the same. See the examples below: first the concept, then two parts of real models.
  4. These are nice models, especially the highest one. Here this is called a "castle-villa" ("kasteelvilla" in Dutch). One question: why do most architects and urban designers use white as color for models? Why not more natural colors in various shades like sandstone, warm grey, etc.?
  5. You should make one in which you can insert your smartphone, so it can actually be used. With a slider system. That would be really cool. :-) It might require a bit adaptation of dimensions, but as long as it is immediately recognisable...
  6. The one I saw on photo, didn't have any attachments. The tube was cut to the correct length. And then by friction from unwinding, it was pulled towards the feeder, sort of, so it closed the gap. But I don't remember from who this was.
  7. You could design a sort of venting hole from the top of the magnet, to the hole in which you pour-in the resin. Or better two holes: one filling-canal, and one venting canal. Similar to those used in metal casting. However, if the magnet is totally surrounded by plastic, and that is impregnated with resin, I don't see how the magnet could be damaged. It might rattle a bit, but metal is harder than plastic. Another approach might be if you design a sort of springs or vanes into the hole. So, when you push-in the magnet, these vanes keep it centered and gently clamp it. S
  8. In daily life, I don't clean it. Well, I only clean it less than once a year. First wipe with alcohol, and then thoroughly wash again with pure handwarm tap water only. Then wipe dry with a paper towel. So, in daily life, I don't clean it for 99.7% of the time. I don't use soaps as they reduce bonding. Also, cheap industrial solvents might leave residues that reduce bonding: there is a lot of variation. I tried these things in the very beginning, but now I don't use them anymore. They didn't work for me. But before each print, I do wipe the glass with a tiss
  9. Your image didn't come through. Normally, in Windows you can just drag and drop an image from the Explorer into this editing box. Or copy and paste from image viewers like IrfanView, or from Windows Clipping Tool. Could you try that again?
  10. If the automatic functions don't work well for your particular situation, you can design your own supports in CAD, so they become part of the model. Then you can implement anything you want: holes to insert hooks and pliers for better removal, gaps, ribs, hanging supports,... I only have single nozzle printers (UM2), so my supports are in the same material as the model. But for dual nozzle machines, you could design for separate materials. A few concepts I have used or considered in the past:
  11. Making a fine print from the original gcode, and then sand, smooth and paint that. And then 3D-scan and digitize that 3D-model? Would that be an option? Then at least you have a nice original to start from. But even when people leave a company in bad terms, you might be able to get them to cooperate, if you were not personally involved in the conflict too much. Most people can make that distinction. Also, doing a thorough search on STL, OBJ, and whatever else files on servers and local computers might give some results. Do this from a bootable stick, so you get around W
  12. You can always design (one of) them in CAD, and consider it part of your model. But for printing, using both has no practical meaning as far as I know.
  13. These too thin horizontal areas are underextrusion. This basically means that the printer can not deliver enough filament, for whatever reason: too much friction in the feeding traject, (partially) blocked nozzle, dirty feeder, filament windings under other windings on spool, worn-out teflon coupler, non-working little cooling fan for nozzle, nozzle too cold, flow too high, worn-out or incorrectly installed bowden tube,... There is a video and extensive list of possible causes somewhere on this forum, but I don't know exactly where. Maybe you can find it? The vertical l
  14. I do not have a dual nozzle printer, so no personal experience. But I do vaguely remember that supports might be printed at double layer-height, or beginning from a thicker minimum, or something like that, since it does not melt so nice as PLA. So, if the PVA would print at 0.2mm layers, and PLA at 0.1, you might get this effect. Could be an explanation. But I am not sure, it is just a vague memory, you need to check. Maybe you could search for this and find more info?
  15. If you bend PLA and then keep it bent under stress, then microcracks may grow, and they may keep growing until it snaps. This can happen when it is sitting in the feeding traject for a longer time. So it is best to unload it after printing, and store it under no load. As it gets older, it can become harder and brittle too. Moisture also degrades PLA, it breaks down the molecules, so that could also speed up the brittling-effect. But I haven't had it snapping while printing or while in the feeding traject yet. So, in your case, it could be a bad batch or bad brand too. Wood, stone, carbon, or m
  16. Yes, you should definitely print cooler. On my UM2 the standard for PLA is 210°C, but for tiny models printed slowly and in thin layers, I can go down to 190°C. On a test piece, while printing, try going down manually in steps of 5°C, and see what happens. At some point it will start to underextrude severely. Then go up a little bit until it flows well again. Then try that value for a whole tiny model.
  17. When selecting silent fans, keep in mind that they usually have a *much lower* flow rate and cooling capacity. So you might need to provide a lot more or a lot bigger fans. And indeed, adding rubber dampers, mats, or washers between fan and housing, can greatly reduce transmitted noise and resonant vibrations. Also adding a sound-absorbing mat on the opposite sides of a printer (or room) might help: this does not eliminate the source of course, but it damps the reflections and resonance. Similar to the covering of walls in a sound studio, but then in miniature. If your printer desi
  18. And what is the effect if you make the wall thicker? (Or thinner, to exaggerate the effect?) I also have noticed that any sudden changes in layer-area to print, or in wall thickness, do show up as horizontal lines. Try this on a small cut-out of your model, at the place where the problem appears. So you don't waste too much time and material.
  19. Like gr5 said: this is a cooling problem: the hot nozzle keeps sitting on same spot on top of the model, so it can't cool down and solidify. This is a limitation of this printing-concept. I often print small models that have this problem. Then I print multiple at once, so one can cool while the other is printing. Or I print a dummy tower next to the real model. Ideally, the dummy should have the complementary surface area as the real model, so that the total area per layer is constant. Brutal changes in layer area show up as horizontal lines on small models. Printing sl
  20. @thorsenrune: I don't know what this "@-thing" does, other than drawing visual attention, so I rarely use it. :-) And yes, you can quote me on the Onshape phylosophy. I am used to very wel organised graphic design packages, with easy navigating through logical menus and toolbars. Functions should be where you expect them to be. But in Onshape all functions seem to be randomly splattered all over the screen, and often hidden, without any logic (or at least I can't find it). I had to consult the manual *every time*, again and again, even for the simplest functions like saving or expo
  21. I have tried Onshape, in the beginning when you could still have 10 private models (all above 10 would become public, accessible to the whole world). But I don't think you can still have 10 private models? Maybe 4? Unless you pay big money per month. Anyway, I could not find my way around in its user-interface: I can't find anything and can't get anything done. Its phylosophy seems to be incompatible with mine, so I stopped using it. This could be my problem of course, since some other people *can* make great designs in Onshape. :-) I have a very different graphics background tha
  22. In my experience, *random* crashes usually indicate a hardware problem. Often memory modules that got defect, or contact pins that got dirty or oxidated. If the driver update would not help, and if you can access the memory modules, try gently (!) wiggling them a couple of times. This has often worked well in my PCs (I don't know for a Mac). Maybe try a night-long RAM memory test? Memory-problems often show up only on memory-intensive software that occupies nearly all of the RAM: 3D-software, browsers with a ton of open tabs all playing videos, etc.
  23. To me your samples look pretty decent. This is what I would expect. Infill is not meant to be visually perfect: its purpose is to add strength in *invisible* areas. And to reduce material consumption and printing time in invisible insides, where a solid body is not required. So its purpose is a good balance between strength, printing time, and material use. Although today there are a couple of really beautifull infills indeed. If you want nice looking spokes, and you want more control over how they look, I would suggest you design them in CAD. See the model
  24. On my UM2, the tube is also worn-out, but it keeps clamping well. If the nozzle is not blocked, and there are no temperature problems (printing too cold, so it does not melt), the tubing is the correct diameter, and the filament is not too thick, or any other things that block feeding, then I keep thinking that you might not be inserting the tube well enough? It is not sufficient to just push-in the tube all the way down. At the same time, you also need to lift the white ring as high as possible by pulling hard: this lifting is what will cause the locking afterwards. Could you veri
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