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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. I don't know your printer, but if it was an Ultimaker 2, I would guess: or the nozzle is too far away from the build plate, or the flow is far too low, e.g. 50% instead of 100%.
  2. Printing 4h/day is not that exceptional. Here on the forum I have seen people who print almost continuously. If you do regular maintenance on your printer, it should be fine: nozzle cleaning with atomic puls, cleaning and lubricating rods, removing dust and hairs from the fans, cleaning feeder wheel,... Or you could try moulding and casting: 3D-print a master-object and a shell, carefully post-process these (=sand, smooth,...) and use these to cast a silicone mould. Then use that mould to cast plastic items. On Youtube you find a lot of good tutorials on moulding and casting. Then
  3. Sometimes (1) filament hairs and strings get sucked-up and block that little fan. And (2) the bearings wear out: if the fan made a sort of "rheu-rheu-rheu..." sound prior to your problem, it is probably the bearings. I have often successfully extended the life of such little fans by a month or so (this was back in the days of old 80286-computers), by lubricating worn-out bearings with bearing oil. I have also done this on an UM2 fan once, and it worked well. This gives you time to buy new fans. The oil should not be too thin, because then it does not lubricate enough: it should be
  4. Some laserprinters (=paper-printers) have an auto-retry function if the print fails due to errors like paper jam, out-of-paper, door-open, etc... Then the print is automatically redone. Some printers can also receive jobs when the printer is offline or asleep, because the network card and electronics keep their power and the job is somehow buffered (I guess...). Also, in Windows a print job may get stuck in the print queue when Windows has problems connecting to a network printer. When you then switch-on the printer, or set it online, or restore the network, it may print those old jobs.
  5. In DesignSpark Mechanical there are 3 standard quality-options for export to STL: coarse, medium, fine. I use the fine, which gives about 2x to 3x more triangles than in your image (which corresponds to about medium). Custom quality allows for even better, but that is overkill: the printer can't follow too fine details anyway. But there can be lots of other reasons why accuracy is not great: extruded flow too much or not enough, nozzle too hot or too cold, blobs, incorrectly callibrated X- or Y-steps per mm, printing fast so corners get too thick when it has to slow down suddenly a
  6. There is no official text feature, at least not in the version I have (maybe in the newest or beta-versions?). DesignSpark Mechanical is a free but limited version of the commercial and expensive SpaceClaim. But there are 3 ways around it: 1. Use the Dimensioning tool. This is the tool which draws measuring lines and arrows and dimensions like this: <-- 3.0mm --> Measure a dimension where you want text. So, now you have this: <-- 3.0mm -->. Then delete the numbers and arrows, and replace them with your custom text, in a font you want. This text is still sit
  7. In your CAD-software, can you hide parts of a complex model? For example in DesignSpark Mechanical (=free but requiring registration, and only suitable for geometric models, not for organic life-forms): as long as the parts are not merged, I can simply hide each by unchecking it. And then make it visible again. This allows exporting each part separately. Let's say you have a cookie-cutter mould, named: "cookie", and the kid's name written on it: "kidname". Then I could hide "cookie", and save "kidname" separately as a model, or export to STL. And then I would make "cook
  8. What about modeling custom supports in CAD? In that way you can make a wide and stable support in the same material as your model. And only a thin dissolvable support-layer in-between the support and model. Not sure if this would work, I have never tried it yet, but it might be worth experimenting on a small test-object? To make the dissolvable support material stick better to the custom support structure, you could add sort of dovetail ribs on top of it, so both interlock. See this concept-pic:
  9. Forgot to say in the above post: that method is only good if the load is directed inwards, obviously. I used it to clamp two mould-halves together. For a load in both directions, or outwards, I use side-openings for inserting the nut afterwards. Sort of slots where the nut slides-in. This too can be with or without retention ridges, to prevent the nut from falling-out if the screw is removed. It is not suitable for every model and every print-orientation, but if it is, it works very well. Here too, I can use cheap standard nuts. See these real models:
  10. Indeed, PLA parts do deform quickly, even here in Europe in mild spring and autumn weather. Not only on top of the dashboard in direct sunlight, but even in the dark in the trunk, the coolest place. Now I make parts for my car in PET or in colorFabb NGEN (which I think is similar?), both of which are still easy to print. Since then I haven't had parts warping. But these materials are harder to glue. While cyanoacrylate works very well for PLA, bonding is only mediocre for PET and NGEN, and tends to break suddenly under load, or due to temperature related expansion/shrinking. So I a
  11. Are you sure a single layer is enough for strength? I think that might fracture or split soon due to baked-in stresses from the printing, or later due to loads in flying. I had single layer rods split, even when under moderate load, especially if the load was for a longer time (days, weeks). Test strength on test pieces first, before taking the plane into the air.
  12. Generally, my experience is: print slow, cool, and in thin layers, with a material that does not cause too much blobs and strings (but that still fullfills your other wishes concerning temperature resistance and strength of course).
  13. I don't know for your printer. You have to search for that in its manual, or a forum for that specific printer. For my Ultimaker 2 printers, there are the X- and Y rods (=with the drive belts and sliders), and the rods where the head hangs on. These require thin oil. Plus the Z-axis worm, but this requires grease. All have to be cleaned first, and then lubricated. But for other brands and models it may be completely different. And some may have sort of internal movements, slots, or sliding mechanisms (I don't know the correct English terminology), where pieces of dirt c
  14. What you could also do, is make a hex cage with a protruding ridge at the bottom, for retention. And then using brute force, push the nut through the opening past the ridge. Then it can't fall out. It will take a bit of trial and error to get your tolerances right, but then it should work fine. If you use a conic top surface of the cage, you need no supports. Also use a conic chamfer at the bottom, to make sliding the nut in easier, and to remove elephant feet due to printing. I find it easiest to design the nut separately, then move a copy into the model and subtract i
  15. I don't know your printer, so I have to do a bit of general guessing. I think it could be the printer missing steps, but it could also be the object becoming a bit loose and wiggling? Or a defect in the model or slicer-bug? First, in Cura (or other slicer) always check the model in Layer-View, to see if this defect is there or not. Check if the printer head moves smooth in X- and Y-direction. Movement could be blocked by debris, or lack of lubrication. Then, while printing, keep watching closely what happens. You should be able to see the differe
  16. For strength, I think PLA would do if it is for just touching or picking up things, but maybe not for carrying a full body weight. But PLA is not temperature-resistant, so you can not leave it in the car in a sunny environment. Even not in moderate European springs and autumns. Don't ask how I know. :-) In that case maybe PET could be a good choice, but print this with cooling fans off or very low for good layer bonding. ABS might not give enough layer bonding? For comfortable attachment to the body, you could provide enough room around the connecting area, and then fill this with
  17. Yes, but: the filament should be equally strong, durable, easy to print, non-warping, and have the same layer bonding as standard PLA, I think. And it should not damage brass and steel nozzles, e.g. not be so acid that they dissolve, and not leave burned residu stuck to the nozzle. And at a comparable price as PLA now. Also, production should not use more energy than it does now. And it also should not be so self-decomposing that prints fall apart, like we had with some other bio-stuff: in our city we once had waste bags (NL: vuilniszakken) that were so bio that they decomposed in two days, bu
  18. Great idea. This might become a trendsetter if more people see it. Then we might see vampire masks dripping of blood, terminators, the guy with metal teeth from James Bond films (don't remember his name), and so on. Could get really interesting. :-)
  19. I prefer to print a dummy "cooling-model" next to the real model. The dummy can be empty, except for the top which should have a less or more complementary print-area as your problem-area, so the total print time per layer stays almost equal. So the nozzle is moved away from the real model while printing the dummy, and the model has time to cool down. The advantage of the dummy is that the print speed and material flow stay constant, and thus the temperature and viscosity of the molten plastic. Disadvantage is that is wastes some filament. See the pics below. The first pic shows th
  20. Another reasonably easy method: design a nut, add a cone-shape on top, and a rounding at the bottom for easier inserting of the nut. And then subtract that coned nut from your design. Due to the cone on top of the nut, it prints well without causing overhang-problems. See the pics below. This is a metrinch-style design, which gives a tighter fit. This is an M4-nut, and the distance between the "flats" is the standard 7mm. Nylon M4-nuts can be pushed in with a little bit of force, and don't fall out. Although they can be pulled out by inserting a screw and then pulling. I tried prin
  21. The best practice is always to be very gentle with nozzles. No brute force, to avoid damaging brass nozzles, print head, and rods. Even if a rod is bent only 0.05mm, that is a complete layer-height of 0.1mm upon one rotation. I do very gentle cold pulls ("atomic pulls") very week, or every time I change filament color or type, or as necessity requires when there is accumulation of dirt in the nozzle. After each print, I immediately wipe the nozzle's outside, before it cools down. See my old (non-official) manual here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-ke
  22. I never tried burning out a nozzle with a flame. But I did try to burn separate pieces of filament in a metal spoon, in the flame of a bunsen-burner. I let it slowly heat up, and finally catch fire and totally burn up. The results were: - Both plastics melted into a bubbling pool of hot liquid. The PLA being more liquid than the PET, which stayed more honey-like. - Ultimaker PLA and colorFabb PLA/PHA filament burned-out into a thin layer of black dust, a bit like coal powder, easy to remove by rubbing. - PET burned-out into a thick layer of hard, black, glossy varnis
  23. If you are just beginning, I would say: start with small test pieces that complete quickly. Stay with the printer while they print, and carefully watch what happens. This is important to lear fast, and to react fast if things wouldn't go as expected. Try different overhangs, wall thicknesses, infil percentages, bonding methods (stay with the printer!!!), speeds, layer thicknesses,... Begin with simple models with a couple of holes, curves, extrusions, slight overhangs, and see how they come out. Start from standard profiles, until you get bonding and general things good and routine
  24. Another option that might work, is printing parts separately, and glueing? You are going to see the split lines anyway when you abort and restart a print. So glueing might do as well? For alignment you could make an extrusion on one part and a mating indentation on the other part.
  25. If the cookies or dough are soft enough, and if the cutter is open at the back so you can push them out, maybe you can get away with straight sidewalls, untapered? The constant width makes it easier to find optimal print settings. And then as desired go for single walled or double walled sides? A single wall has the advantage of easier cleaning, and no internal openings in which bacteria might grow. But it's weaker obviously. Also print rather slow and in thin layers, for smooth and strong walls.
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