Torgeir

Hi there. I would check that the two 6 mm shafts is absolute parallel with the two rotating 8 mm shafts it is moving in between. I.E. The shaft going across (if you look into the printer) is the X shaft as head go along this shaft. There is a tool you can print (we'll need two of them), that can be "clamped" to the (8 & 6)mm shafts in order to fine adjust the pulleye position by unscrew the two setscrews. To just have an idea of how much off it is, use a caliper and measure between the shafts, -or any fixed object that can be used as a metering device to see that the relative distance is the same. There is 8 places to check.. Here's the Ultimaker site for this problem. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879-How-to-align-the-axles-on-your-Ultimaker-printer Thanks Torgeir

Octoprint, aha.. This app can do -lots of thing, -even "adjust" the firmware... So print this vase without using the Octoprint and see the difference. Octoprint is connected to the printer using the USB to Raspberry PI and from here you're connected via ethernet (LAN) to your PC or -phone. Lots of people use it for remote control and camera monitoring. This app can be very handy, -but you need to know it very well! Thanks Torgeir

This show how a good tuned printer can perform if the model is right. 😏 Well done. Torgeir

@Mlogue9 Hi Matt. I've to say this is one of the best example I've seen in here of using "spiralize mode". The retractions you observed in the very beginning is Cura making the right "pitch path" before starting "spiralizing". Use "Notepad++" and look at the gcode. From layer 4 -and on, Cura start spiralizing. I've checked your gcode file using Cura 4.10.0 and also with S3D (another brand of gcode viewer). Both of them showed a nice model in preview mode. There might be something I've missed, but I'm sure @GregValiant can have a look at this. Thanks Torgeir

You're welcome. I printed this spacer, however it started to crimp due to the heat -so I just bought the spacer to avoid leakage.. With your new Bondtech, I'll think a steel spacer is a must -due to the hi pressure it can make. Good luck. Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr, I'll think @gr5, nailed your problem. You should get read of that spring and use a steel spacer -as it will increase the life length of your coupler(s). Thanks Torgeir

@JaXXoN Hi Bernard. I know Fusion 360, Autocad variants and SolidWorks plus some more.. However, this is the first time I've heard about MoI3D. Have seen over the years that some of the CAD software had some problems with not snap lines properly together, resulting in line offset etc. Those small deviations might be hard to see, -normally, but for our drawn 3D objects this might cause problems. Fusion 360 from Autocad, is free to use for hobbyist use, but you can only save 10 3D files! So if you want to still use it, -you can and you can make a stl file of the drawn object, but you can't save your drawing! However, several in here use/have FreeCad and so do I, but I have not used it much to be honest. But people in here say FreeCad is a good alternative to make good drawing for Cura to slice.. I may try to print this file, but at the moment too busy with other stuff. 🙂 Good luck Cheers Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr How many E-steps are you using with this setup? They advice E-steps for an UM2+ to be "311", but this is for an 1.8 deg/step motor. (200 step/360 deg) Found here: https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddg-extruder/ As you have the old stepper (from UM2E) that's 0.9 deg/Step. (400 step/360 deg) According to this, -you'll need to double the number of steps by 2, I.E. E=2*311E=622 E-step, for your setup. If the E-step setting is too high, the stepper may miss step. Also, if the current setting is too low you may see missed step. Normal current setting for the feeder stepper motor (E1 or E2) is 1200 mA. Thanks Torgeir

@JaXXoN Hi Bernard. There was a problem with Cura detecting the inner wall. So I made this sphere in Fusion 360 (Autocad free version) Just 20 mm diameter and strait hole dia. 8 mm. The wall gradually increased from approx 70 deg. (0.4 mm to top 0.8 mm) and same at the bottom. Seems to be possible to print, but not sure how it will be. Here is a picture how it's looking in Cura Arachne Beta. Here's the your project file from Cura Arachne Beta; CFFFP_Sphere_Exp_Arachne_B_0_2mm.3mf And the gcode, but have not checked this one.. CFFFP_Sphere_Exp_Arachne_B_0_2mm.gcode Torgeir

Hi @philippe44 Have you checked that the two 6 mm axes are clicked in place to the four plastic holders -and are not loose? This can make your adjustment faulty.. Also, there could be play in between the head bearings and the axes at different places on the bed. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @JaXXoN I'll say this is the biggest printer I've seen in here -covering one cubic meter.. 👍 Self built? 🙂 The sphere you have here is a small and high resolution object (20X20X20)mm "approx". So printing this one with 0.2 mm layer height (0.4 mm nozzle) is not easy. Building up a single sphere model will always end up with a hole in the top, the only way to make this possible without a hole is just like you have done it. To keep the outside sphere, we'll gradually from inside (at app 75-85 deg) above/below and ofc. done when drawing the model. I've imported your project file into "Cura "Arachne Engine Beta" as this is the best slicer for such models IMO. The first picture is just with your original settings and here it is looking pretty much as in Cura 4.10.0 seen here; All pictures from above, where you can see the settings and the changes. Here are picture no 2, one change selected "Use Adaptive Layers"; Here the effect is seen, but some limited.. In this third picture I've reduced layer height from 0.2 mm to 0.1 mm ; Here you'll see a drastic "improvement", but the last part is a problem as the nozzle stay close for "some" time.. This last picture, just changed another parameter line width to 0.55 mm, kind of extreme but you can see this difference. By using Post processing script controlling those last layers temperature toward the top may be worth the effort.; Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Speckles You made the flow test good, I could see, -if there was a feeding problem, you would not be able to finish this test. The speed also increase for each flow setting up to max 10 mm3 /sec. This is why you have a this acceleration/resonance shadows that's worse in the upper flow rate area, but this result is quite normal for an UM2 types of printer. This is actually a good test to confirm that your UM2+ flow is up to standard.. My best advice would be to test with standard PLA, with printing temperature (200-210)deg. C., as this is more easy to handle -and will show you what is possible to make by printing with thermoplastic. You have chosen on of the "exotic" brand of PLA (FormFutura Volcano PLA) and this is not a good starting filament to learn from. For this filament there is so many parameters to handle in order to have a quality print, so -much more fighting before the fun can begin. When looking at the first layer of the project file you attached in here, I can see the first layer is not squished as it should be, the layers would normally be "glued" together to a solid flat figure(s) that's holding your object to the bed during the whole printing process. So never go higher than 0.27mm (default for 0.4 mm nozzle) height for this nozzle size. Do the nozzle height adjustment a several times, using a tiny ATM note, you should only feel that the note barely touch this note. I'm only making this adjustment after nozzle change or when the bed have been out for cleaning. Also, make sure that the bed is "super" clean without any fingermarks etc. A little more about this test object, the first segment (20 mm) is printed with low temperature (220 deg. C.,?.) The highest segment (from 100 mm and up) is printed with 220 deg. C. So here the 245 deg. C., is missing. This is done by using "post processing" script, in order to adjust the temperature with the gcode file during printing. Before printing with other filaments, make sure that the nozzle is free of debris from old filament, clean using "atomic Bobs" method using same type of filament lastly used! This is important. As UM2 type printers have manual temperature control, the Ultimaker2 "flavour" have no implemented temperature control. However, by changing setting for the printer in Cura to "RepRap" flavour like this: Here is the setting for filament with Ultimaker2 flavour: This with RepRap flavour: This way give better handling of the temperature during printing and you'll have a little better support by the profiles made for your printer. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @akayar Your model has a double wall, thou super tiny. As @gr5 said, in this case Cura's newest version "Arachne Engine Beta" (latest version) is the slicer for this problem. Cause there is two walls, the slicer try the closest path and this is why the surface is uneven esp. at the top because the wall distance increase at this place. With Cura Arachne Beta, you'll have much better control of the layer width. Using the default setting for my printer (UM2E+) and used fine profile (0.1 mm line height) and changed "Line width" to 0.5 mm. Checked the "Saved" gcode file in Cura Arachne Beta and found no issues, then opened the same file in S3D and the object was superb. (This is the best "water test" I can do to be reasonably sure that this print will "shine".) Thanks Torgeir

Hi @gr5 and @ZachariahS, I just made a little drawing of Cut Section of nozzle with heath block and coupler. This to illustrate the problem with a short nozzle with limited heat transfer due to "tread play", or printing to fast in general, both with increased temperature in order to solve the problem. As long as we're printing a round object this "can" work, however if we print an object with speed changes etc. "over temperature" will ruin your print at places. Here is the drawing, somewhat exaggerated to clarify the problem. Here is such a setup, bought in Asia 2018. (Having the above issues). If you have such a nozzle, it is important to screw the nozzle all the way to the flange stop against the heat block. You may also use heat sink compound to increase/improve the heath transfer to the nozzle. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Bernard, We're using "Adaptive Layers" to print overhang better, it's found under "Experimental". The new Cura Beta version "Arachne Engine Beta", -have much better line width control. But you'll need to tune a little. Torgeir

Hi @friedl_basson, This might complicate things, So I'm wonder if a "top-hat" might help you. I'm using a cheap one, easy to install and can also work as a dust protector.. 😄 The box I selected also stick out in the front and cover the filament roll as well. When printing, the tube and wire loom never touch the inside of the box. This arrangement prevent cold draft to enter the print object from above, the temperature will never go sky high as the hot air escape easily. I've also installed a fan on the top so bring those nasty stuff vented off, if needed. I would try this approach, as it worked very well with nylon and some other experiment filament I bought. In this case, I would cover the front as well -but leave a little leak at the bottom so you can adjust a little flow through, if needed. But with the room temp you mentioned, I'll doubt you'll really need it. May printer is always printing in the range (22-26) deg. C., but I'll still cover up to keep stable temp inside the printer. If you like to try, you'll need 4 hangers to put on the printer to support the box that is wider than the printer. Here's how this box look: Here is the hangers you'll need 4 of gcode file for UM2, plus the stl file: UM2_Plastic_Box_Holder.gcode PlasticBox_Holder_UM2.stl Anyway, if you try this good luck. Torgeir

Hi there, Yesterday was a slow day.. I come to think that those stripes or artifacts may be caused by a tiny play I have in the X/Y axis - head. With this "fast" printing this may play a role here, -but some places are also quite smooth. However, this "good" print is kind of strong as I can twist a little with no "cracking" sound and weight only 17.7g. When I'm looking at the "spare/string" design inside the wingtip, those edges are not parallel with the outer skin. As this skin is just one tiny layer, such issues must be taken into consideration when designing such tiny profiles. The glue effect vs printing temperature also play an important role here, all this is kind of complicated for sure. To me this kind of 3D printing is the most interesting, so I'll keep experimenting in this area for sure. Keep up the good works. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @friedl_basson, I could use this settings. Thanks Torgeir

Sure agree, -but aren't you asking a little bit too much of an FDM printer? Well, it's bed time here -long time ago.. Torgeir.

Hi @ansonl, This schematic is the one issued by Ultimaker for ver 2.1.4., -and the connector is the same pin wise. This is great. Way to go.. Torgeir

Aha.. Need to dig some deeper.. Edit Try make it closer. Torgeir

Hi @JaXXoN, The inner "added" part have way to much space to the cylinder. The object is not seen as one part by Cura. Can't you join them together? It would be much better to have your project file, as we can see all the setting for your setup. Torgeir

Hi there, When I saw those comments, I’ll new there must be something interesting.. 😁 After reading in here about creating RC aircraft using plastic, -here is the other last topics about this in January, is found here: This tread was started by @GAZZER, he might be interested in this tread? So I found my experimental scrap box, as I’ve made a “few” print of that wingtip for a Spitfire. This is the file attached (the Spitfire tip) found first in the above link. Ok., here is my scrap box (for wingtips).. Next picture of the tip with failure(left) and a good one(right). In this and the below pictures, you can see the broken "wing strings" at several places. Next is the reverse side of the wingtip, failed left. Last picture, looking inside the two wingtip one is full of strings.. (Testing testing 🙂 ) The upper one is the good one and the lower one is full of cobwebs (maybe there is a whole family in there?) 🤪 Here is what I did. As I could see all the critical parts (strings & spares etc.) using Cura in preview mode to see inside the model. Cura “yelled out” here is a leakage! I could not find anything critical, except for some “floating” object and thought it might be a little windy place to be. (I could see the outside in between the lines from inside.) Joke aside. After slicing this wingtip, some of the combined string-spares was broken/missing at the string part. So, armed with Cura viewer (at that time -ver. 4.6.1), and some patience, I tested out some parameter that I thought might play a role in this problem. Well, after some “failed” models and adjustments, I finally got some "break true" with this issue. The solution was: Reduced the "Minimum Polygon Circumference" from 1 mm to 0.5 mm. Here is the setting to be changed in Cura to make this print possible with good result: Use “Normal -0.2 mm” profile in Cura 0,20 mm height and standard nozzle 0.4 mm. (Note, Cura Arachne Engine Beta use “Normal -0.15 mm”, -if using this ver. change h=0.20 mm) Here is the setting made to "normal profile -0,20 mm" used in Cura: Quality setting: Layer height 0.2 mm Initial Layer height 0.27 mm Layer width 0.35 mm Cura will adjust the rest of the layer setting! Walls setting: Wall line count 1 (Nothing more to change here.) Top/Bottom setting: Top layer 0 Bottom layer 0 Cura will adjust the next layer setting! Infill density: Infill density set to 0% Build plate adhesion: Build plate adhesion type set to “Skirt” Experimental: Slicing tolerance set to “Exclusive” Minimum polygon circumference set to “0.5 mm” Hope all this can help someone. Good luck. Cheers Torgeir

Hi @ansonl, Well, I'm not sure exactly what type of main board you've bought. The first picture is version; 2.1.4 this board, having the "new" type of connector for the bed and two nozzle heaters and is also modified to remove the "sebra" stripe problem.. The second board is version; 2.1.1 is the oldest (?) main board version used in UM2. When it come to the LED strip connector, the +24 VDC is live +24 VDC as long the printer is switched on. Just to measure the +24 VDC pin, -measure here against the true ground on the main board.. The minus pin for the LED strip is connected to a "high" speed transistor that is controlled by the PWM (pulse width modulated) signal from the processor. So in other word, the ground pin is pulsed toward ground. Measuring the PWM signal with a multimeter would not work very well. I can see that you're up to speed in Arduino.. So my best advice for you, use UM2 firmware and modify from here as needed. Keep up the good work. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @gr5 and @ZachariahS, Yes, exactly, all this extra retractions pull back the filament and this make the temperature just a little higher. When you study the lines in there, there is a "tiny" balance between hot and cold. In order to "make" this situation better one use to increase the temperature, but this makes it harder to control and hold a steady temperature. If you print with less speed and flow the printing will be good, but as soon you try to increase the speed for bigger project this issue will occur. In the picture with combing off. When we look at the objects wall's, it looks quite "normal" -cause there is a good balance between the speed selected and the amount of energy this heat block can deliver. The top floor inside is also kind of good, but have sign of low temperature. Moreover, if you look at the top of the object we still can see the sign of "too low temp" as the lines is not adhered together as thy normally should be, but here we see no sign of over temperature as we saw with combing. The connection between the heater and the heat block is good and so is the thermistors connection to the block. So temperature at the block is good and under control by the main "PCB". However, the thermal connection between the block and the nozzle are not! So, if your nozzle has a little play -all the way (during installing into the heat block) until you tight it up, -your nozzle lost about half of its theoretical heat transfer capacity.This because only one half of the coils are effective and the other half have "air pockets". If this happen, -the temperature will start decreasing at a given speed. I've asked some questions about the printers nozzle temperature during printing, that's important for what to do. As we never heard anything about the temperature, -the above might be the problem causing this issue. Just for the record. I've tried to reduce the speed using "combing" on, to the same printing time as -without "combing", time h 3:53. Reduced printing speed from (70 to 50) mm/s and infill speed from (90 to 50) mm/s gave time h 3:53. Changing the speeds like this, Cura may change other as well, -if -do not adjust! But what effect this has on the print quality, sure I do not know.. Nothing else was changed. Hope this clear up the issue. To go on further, if necessary, we'll need some feedback here. Thanks Torgeir