Torgeir

Hi @Darkstang5887, Did you really go through all the thing advised by @gr5 in this tread: Thanks Torgeir

Hi @UALib3D You've already got good advice from @gr5 here, -so I'll just add something more.. This is quite interesting, first I noticed the brownish color on the front (inlet side of cooling fan) that tell a story? This color indicate high temperature, a black debris just in front of the printed object and finally the nozzle in the middle of the print. All this indicate too high temperature to me. How does your print head look from below? So, -inside the head there is a control PCB (printed circuit board)and this board also include the precision amplifiers for both print cores. Say that no1 print core amplifier by some reason say that the temperature is to low, then the control circuit will increase the temperature as high the error signal tell. If this is the problem, it would not help to change (swap) the print cores. You may also use an infra red temperature sensor in order to check if the temperature is correct. A better close up of "all" sides of your model may give more info about the problem. Also try to turn the model 45 deg to see how this work.. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

It's easy to press a key - sometimes... Way to go Greg..

Hi @Reddley Great Readdley. Maybe you should try the "new" version of Cura, the Cura Arachne Beta, still an experimental version -but this version handle the layer width much better. There is some issues with it, but think it will work well for your model and give you some good prints.. You can use your project file from Cura 4.11.0 and see how it goes in Cura Arachne Beta. You'll find it here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360018439500-Ultimaker-Cura-Arachne-engine-beta-version Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Reddley Well, -it just was the function (under walls), "Fill Gaps Between Walls" that was enabled and made all this extra wall infill. Just changed this from "Everywhere" to "Nowhere" and then the infill become normal.. (I've never been using this function.) Hopefully, this was the problem. Thanks Torgeir

Ok., just loaded your model into Cura (4.11.0) and used my printer (an UM2E+) with default setting "Normal 0.15 mm". With this default setting the model comes out fine with normal infill and top/bottom as it should be.. So this problem seems (to me) to be some setting "confusing" Cura. I'll try to tweak a little around with your profile, may take some time.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Reddley This was weird, looks like the infill in the wall is mixed with a solid layer (top or bottom?). 1) When the walls are printed it start with outer and inner walls layers then infill are done normally and a new layer start. 2) The outer and inner walls starts as above, but instead of continue with infill -it start a top (or bottom) layer. 3) The outer and inner walls starts as above, this time normal infill -and continues on like this every other layer. Hmm, have to say that I've sever seen this before -just wondering if this is a new function in Cura -or is it a bug? Hi @GregValiant, can you share some light in here? Torgeir

Great. Thanks Torgeir

Aha, I'll see you have an Ender CR3-Pro -so I'll think this is a question for @GregValiant Greg knows all about this printer and much more.. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

A better way is to go to "file" menu in Cura then select save project file, this will save your model as; "Buck Converter Box.3mf". This file will hold your model with all setting selected in cura plus your printer info, this way we'll see exactly the same as you're seeing your model. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Reddley Welcome in here. The only picture that's some strange looking is the first one, -as you can see some of the infill in the top mixed with yellow (infill is amber colored).. You'll need to save your model as a "project" file here, then someone can have a look in order to help you. Thanks Torgeir

By the way, I'm not sure what version of Cura that's used here, but I'm using ver 4.11.0 at the moment and there's some changes.. Thanks Torgeir

Well, since the two walls are red, I assumed it's a solid block.

Is not this because of the selected wall thickness is 1 mm and using a 0.4 mm nozzle the problem here? I would try to select wall to 0.4 mm and do another view..

Hi there, Prime Blob is found in Cura under "Build Plate Adhesion". It's normally hidden, but go to Preference then select "Cura Settings" and next press settings. Write "Prime Blob" in the search window. Here you'll see that "Prime Blob" is selected by default, so just deselect it here. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there. Don't we forget an important "detail" here, -that we're also using carbon fiber rods along the entire wing, and that this is also used in the tail section and the rest of the hull (air frame) -when necessary. This reinforces the entire "aircraft" and maintains the needed flexibility. Also, a horizontal printed wing will be stronger, -but suffer for the aerodynamic shape.. Just some thoughts. Torgeir

Hi @CalvinCR If there is any 3D printer there is worthy to repair, -it's for sure an UM2E+! So let's see the pictures of the damages and also a picture of the mother board. There's just four 8mm shafts and two 6mm shafts to change. But those shafts can take many thousands of work hour before any need to change. Shafts pulleys and belts is standard parts in the robot industries -so it is easy to find. How many hours have this printer been printing? Thanks Torgeir

In the previous Cura versions, Cura install a "small rounded sector" just where the small squares is located. Thanks Torgeir

Ok., thanks for the feedback. Torgeir

Hi @FrankSchwab Welcome in here. I downloaded your file and looked at it using Cura 4.10.0. It came up just fine for me, -cannot see any problem - here's a picture in preview mode. Here you see the support for the top of the closed cylinder (yellow climbing "zig-zag" pattern), the blue infill in between the wall -and there is also a tiny support in between the top layers. I'm using only skirt found under "Build Plate Adhesion". Maybe I'm missing something here? Thanks Torgeir

Hi @EdgE Very interesting! Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Trickle You may try to notify him like this: Hi @EdgE Maybe he'll reply. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @34Jimmy34 Welcome in here. Looks like top and (bottom?) layers is selected, try to deselect bottom first, if selected. If this does not help also deselect top layer and use preview mode for inspection. Cura may assume there is a "high" floor inside your helmet by some reason. In such object, the top often has a wider distance between outside-inside of the helmet. But it will be easier if you save your project file and paste it in here so someone can have a look at it. Thanks Torgeir

HI @talker13 Three times like this, -this looks like your front fan does not work properly.. When this happen, heat will climb upward into the normal "cold zone" and filament is "glued" inside the tube. Check to see if the front fan is blocked by filament strings etc., -or if it's just stopped for other reasons. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Innhoster If you just bought the Olsson block kit and used the old heater and PT100 temp sensor as I did, it will work well. Because there is not "much" different in between the old block mass and the Olsson block mass. I did just that and have a temp variation of 1 deg Celsius up or down from the preset temperature during normal printing. However, if you have an air pocket (if the temp sensor fit too loosely) the sensing will be delayed and the temperature may fluctuate. To fix such a problem you may use copper paste as a heat sink compound -and can actually be used on the heater as well. This treatment will improve the thermal efficiency for the heat block and improve the temperature regulation. Note well! After such treatment, use a cotton rag to wipe off the excess grease. You'll need to heat up the nozzle to normal printing temperature in order to dry out the light oil substances that's part this grease. Make sure you have good ventilation as it might ooze a little when starting to heat the nozzle block. Increase the nozzle temperature in step by step slowly. Have a cotton rag ready to collect any spillage escaping from the block. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Long ago I'd read in here that you should not use copper paste on the heater as this paste will harden up! This is absolutely nonsense and cannot be copper pasta. Copper pasta will withstand temperatures up to 1100 deg Celsius before begins to decompose. Besides, we are using temperatures very far from this temperature area. I've used copper pasta this way all the time since I've built my printer in 2015. No problem removing the heater or the temp sensor. I can set the temperature for PLA to 209 deg. Celsius and print with a filament flow of 10 mm³/sec. This when using 0.4 mm nozzle and the 25 watt (original) heat element for UM2. Thanks Torgeir