Torgeir

Hi @flea77, Not sure if I can help you much, but lots of people have had problem with getting Cura to work. Very often they had problem with the graphic adapters drivers. -I've had my part as well. 🙂 Cura need to use the API "openGL" (open graphic library) and it must be version 2 or higher. Finding the right driver for "any" laptop or PC can really be a real problem. Anyway, there is a program named "OpenGL Extension Viewer - 6.1.6.0". This is distributed by Realtech VR (visual reality). The program have many functions, as test etc., and have an option to find "best openGL drivers for your PC. The latest version of openGL is version 4.6. Here is a little info in general and you'll find a link to Realtech as well: https://support.esri.com/en/technical-article/000011375 Here is a picture of it from my PC. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @gr5, I'm not 100% sure but I think it means the gcode file is corrupt (actually ufp file for S3). Sure, you're right.. 🙂 Well, I tried to print this latter file (UM3S_Another try.udf), -but got a message with a yellow "exclamation mark" and "Conflict" across the model. Still using firmware 5.8.0 on my S3. (wonder if older firmware addressed this issue different?) Torgeir

Hi there, Just a little note, half of your model is floating above the bed. But if this create the error -have no idea.

Hi @arktape, Thanks. Whats materials selected here matter, I'll think. As this is a bleeding nozzle, -the temperature decrease and the whole thing will bee very cold.. So maybe ABS become very brittle and just snap at times. The nylon is the strongest filament I've been printing ever.. -And also take "some" lo temperatures, -but how this work for your project, I cannot tell. So I'll think all this depend of the physics involved, and to find a perfect match that's make this setup last. Anyway, good luck. Torgeir

Well, there's an option for that.. Isn't the issue to make something that's last? Hmm, -maybe I misunderstood this thing..

Hi @arktape, Interesting project.. I would print the nozzle using nylon, it's very strong and will handle the pressure. For the sealing, I would use a heath shrink tube, of the "soft" type and using special glue for good attachment. The grooves after 3d printing the nozzle will provide good adhesion for glue Google Raychem heat shrink tube.. So, when a sealing is done, remove the old tube and install a "new" sealing into the nylon nozzle. Another option is to just print another sleeve with TPU 95A, which can be threaded over the nylon nozzle. The option is yours. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tanatorn, Not very often we see people from Thailand in here. 🙂 I can see that @gr5 have tried to help you here. You have tried to use "xload" hex file loader, -but this "setup" only work for another brand of printer. So do not use the "xload" program. You might have had problem to upload the files, due to warning from windows, right? As gr5 suggested, the best way is to use an old version of Cura program. You can download directly from this site: It is here Ultimaker store all the different versions of Cura. Here is Cura Version 15.04.6., you just have to find the right file in here. Sometimes, those packed version can be a little tricky to unpack/unzip. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags?after=lulzbot-19.08 If you have problem with unpacking the above, you might try Cura version 2.3.1 This is an *.exe versions Cura 2.3.1., for Windows. Here you might select 32 bit or 64 bit version. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/2.3.1 With this program, you can also upload to the correct version, of firmware for you UM2+ printer. Here is some pictures how to do the firmware update from Cura 2.3.1 After selecting the correct printer UM2+, you press "Update Firmware" and then press "Automatic update firmware". You will also see the message: "Printer Connected". I can see in one of the picture from you, that windows is seeing your printer, so this should work. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @philippe44, for your printing problem, -you hardly find any better advice than @geert_2 have listed here.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @philippe44, you sure need to indicate which pulley was found loose, -without this info it's impossible to verify the fault. A picture of the objects location inside the printer when the "missed steps" occurs is also a good for understanding the failure. So picture of the pulley and picture of the faulty print object when they're still on the bed says more than a thousand word. A project file of what you're printing may help -as a slicing error can make your printer become like look faulty.. I'll think your first layer is good! Trying to change too many thing right away is not the way to go, as if it's become OK., you never will be sure what was real thing that's failed. An UM2 is not possible to wear down, actually a small amount of routine maintenance, -will keep this printer last much longer than most other printers there is! Thanks Torgeir

Great finding.. Just looked at my printer and it appear it's not fastened with screws, there is just five notches two on each length and one in the bottom for this cover. Might be lifted a little up and just pulled out.. Think the cover is some plastic, but not sure. You may find some more on google for sure.. Good luck. Torgeir

There is some open source stuff about UM3 on github.

Yes, but first you have to remove the inside cover. I'm not sure how in the UM3E, I've got an UMS3. You need to hold the motor..

It sure can affect precision, if it hangs up etc. It might be possible to oil, but this can go both ways.. Since you detected this early, might be worth a try. There is an assembly manual for UM2 with some info., and for this area it is the same arrangement.

Hmm., this might be one of the bearing of the X shaft, when both long X shaft is rotating it is moving the head along Y axis. As the inner X shaft have kind of high tension, over time this will wear out first. I'll think if you loosen the Y stepper motor, and then move along the Y axis you may hear the noise from this bearing.. You may also listen to this bearing, but might be hard to spot.. Yes, this thing can play a little with you..

That's good. Well, there is 3 shafts involved that's need to be lubricated for Y and 3 each for the X axis. So all 6 shafts need lubrication frequently. Other thing here to look for is the belts between all the pulleys. The long belts should be running right above or under the shaft it's moving the sliding block along. The other two short ones(from each stepper motors) must go strait to the pulleys and not climbing on its side. The stepper motor are very rough, and can run for many thousands of hour.

Hmm., strange. Maybe check if the sliding bearing inside the head. Try to find out if there is any play/slack in the head without moving it, just check both axis. Normally there will be a very little play here, you might barely feel it. When the head is doing infill with small movement, this clacking sound might be heard and will be more intense in some positions/directions..

Hi @paoletto, after looking and listening to the noise I'll think this noise come from feeder no 1(if you're printing with this core). This sounds like tooth gear working kind of hard and the clicking sound might be missed steps.. Often the root of such a fail is found in the extruder head. If the forward fan stop working (the fan inside the nozzle core door), -not cooling the upper part of the cores. This will increase the force required to feed the filament (due to friction increasing), and may soon stop feeding filament to the heat core. Sure, a print core blockage may also cause such a problem, but first check this fan.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

You're welcome, -and you're right doing the math always matter.. 🙂 Wish you good luck. Cheers Torgeir.

Hi @philippe44, this is for sure a hi number of missed step or a loose pulley on X stepper motor. If the stepper loos steps there will be a high clattering noise, but if a pulley is loose there is not much noise, -except if the nozzle head might slam into the side wall and this is noisy.. Also if there is too little lubrication the X shaft parts, due to this the friction might increase and lead to missed step plus offsetting your print object. So if there is not much noise when this happens, check that if the pulley is not "loose" on the X stepper motor *) and that the adjustment of the pulley position on the shaft is correct. If adjustment is required, be sure to tighten the set screw with very good torque when in position. (A poor quality Umbrako (hex) toolkit should not be used for this issue.) *) The X stepper motor is located inside upper right side of the printer- Use Ultimakers assembly manual as reference, found here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf PS. I always use 60 degrees Celsius on the bed when printing with PLA. If the room temperature is a little on the low side, a "cold" airflow to the upper part of the print object can cause shrinkage which can detach the model from the bed. But definitely, follow the manufacturers' recommendation for the filament type. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hallo Rafael, Vielen Dank für dein Feedback. Grüße Torgeir

Hi, thanks, for replay -and sure I've been testing this issue with my UM2E+. I'll think that the last print you made with the "alpha" version of Cura is much better and the doubled numbers of triangles plus speed reduction contributed as well.. A head -that's have to much play, sometimes make every second line offset some -and this very much depend of the model plus how it is sliced. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi, this is strange, I've been looking at the model in the previous posting and found thous three lines around not seen at all in preview mode or in "ufd" preview mode. When looking closer to those lines, they all appear when there is a "sharp" change in horizontal movement at those levels. There is three such areas, the first overhang, the second overhang and the last is the "unsupported" roof (you are using support block here). So I'm just wondering if you have a little play in X or Y, or maybe both axis? Should be easy to feel by just trying to move the head, without actually moving it, but you will feel if there is a lot of slack/play. Just a very little play is normal.. I've tried to slice your model with different versions of Cura and they are slightly different, but the issues that your print have is not seen in any of them. I'm curious if you find too much slack in the print head, as I cannot see that this is a software problem.. Do you experienced this issue in other prints? Thanks Torgeir

Thanks for replying back, better to be safe than sorry. 🙂 Great job. Torgeir

Hi @flyntm, if you look into the heat bed, inner right side where the wires is connected. You may use a little mirror and a good light source. There is four wires connected to the connector block (just under the bed here), when overheat starts to occur the white colored insulation start to be burnt brownish.. This is the first sign to look for here. Under the printer is the access to the electronics for the printer, Ultimaker warns about high voltage present inside here -as the main power supply is also located in here.. Printer must be disconnected from the main, but even disconnected capacitors might hold high voltage and can kill you. Inside here you will find the main PCB that is white and marked with Ultimaker.. On this PCB, there is two white wires connected to the "big" heat bed connector (the two for extruder heaters is beside here). Just look for the brownish colored wires and check for the same not occur close around this connector. A picture of this PCB is found in the last link below, roll down to the last picture and see the two wires (~AWG 16) connected to the terminal block. Inside here is lots of good information, and the author is a member of this site, @fbrc8-erin . There is not a lot of documentation about this printer, but here are some: At Github here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/3D model Ultimaker 3 Ultimaker North America Support https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187366-Electronics-Board Sure there might be other issues, but this one is most important to sort out first. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flyntm, this is an "alarming" sign of a failure that can be very costly if you continue printing with this issue. The contacts, two on the bed (feeding current) or the two on the main board might be starting to arch due to increased contact resistance. It can also be the soldering from the printed foil on the bed that's going to the contact block. This is a failure that can occur after some high printing hour of your printer. Each time the printer heat up the bed, there will bee some extension when heated and retraction when cooling down. Over time this can develop cracking in the soldering and as the contact get less good, this point will heat much up and may burn the contact/print foil. There might be other issues, but this is the most important to first check out. Thanks Torgeir