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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. I started printing cubes and such as test objects and thingiverse provided calibration models. Cubes and cylinder type stuff allowed me to check the printer's accuracy. The calibration models allowed me to find thins like overhang angles it stopped printing well as well as holes, text, etc. They are also quick prints. I have been designing things for a long time, so that part was easy. But starting out with something like a 3D Printer and calibration models allowed me to be comfortable in my printer's and slicer's capabilities.
  2. Correct. If I remember correctly, the printhead requires that the cores be in place. But Cura will not factor it in for slicing info.
  3. In Cura there is a thing called "Use Adaptive Layers" in the experimental section. You can search for it in the search bar or go to preferences and check the box to make sure it is easily found. I have all my settings exposed to make finding things easier meself. Hope this helps 🙂
  4. One of the very first things I learned from you. I was telling people to go around the block just to open the front door, so to speak...😂
  5. Well, I can tell you where the print is, but not how fast it is printing....... 😝
  6. I hope you let us know how it goes 🙂 I am curious to see if it can use a flexible filament.
  7. I would have to dig mine out to tell you the brands I tried and liked. I wonder about some of those reviews because I feel like there is a huge user error thing going on there. The names may not be correct, but off the top of my head: 3Doodler I did not care for because it uses only straight filament from them. I tried to put regular filament (coiled) and it was a mess because it would spin due to the mechanism of the pen itself. MYNT3D I liked because it would use any generic filament, coiled or straight, and was comfortable in the hand. This i
  8. Yeah, I like airbrushes. The only reason I am not using the airbrush is the issues with setting up the compressor and such with so little room. I have a very nice airbrush; double action Iwata. The only spraying I have done is with rattle cans. because it is an easy setup. I have even used fingernail polishes to paint with (Airbrush). They have some very nice metallics and colour shifting paints. Not the colour shifting that occurs with temp sensitive paints, but more of the holographic angle changes.
  9. Screenshot showing orientation of model and pics of the print would help; otherwise, everybody is guessing. 🙂
  10. This will be about primers and the choices of colour underneath the main paint job. I have seen a lot of posts about primers in the past and what colour primer to use as the base. Primers prepare a surface so that additional paint will stick to the model. Personally, I will sue a black or white primer and sometimes a combo. When I have a print that requires the combo, I will post about it. One of the posts I remember talked about using a primer that is close in colour to the top coat. Basically, if the top coat is going to be red, then use red primer. There is nothing wrong with t
  11. noperz...learning a new interface is filled with hidden things. Ahhh, gotcha... 🙂 Edit: Just thought of this...have you tried the right click menu? Everything can be accessed with the mouse.
  12. Did you try to select and then multiply the model? Is that not the same thing? I am not sure what you mean by this. If you multiply the group, each group maintains the layout of the group. If you save a project file, all of its properties are kept including layout of models.
  13. 🤣 ooohhh, do not mispronounce that one 😜
  14. What are you using to hold the print down on the glass? Hairspray? PVA glue? etc.
  15. Awesome! 👍 That has been all of us at our starting points. 🙂 I used to post under the nom de plume "The clumsy noob" complete with pics of burned fingers and other things. And, when I had to sign things, I would use my plume de nom. 😜 These days I am more of "The forgetful dood." You will be surprised how fast you can get through this in the future. It is a bit of an upward slope at first, but it all starts to come together. Not really.....you can try using bitmap (2 bit black and white) as well as 256 for this if you want to cut down on the anti aliasin
  16. I have only one question...why are you wearing your kilt around your shoulders? 😆
  17. Ummm, like 99.9%.... So, you are asking for the slicers out there to envision every instance to compensate for modeling? At which point does the slicer become more modeling software than slicer? I do not see it as offensive, but slicers are trying to be the best at slicing, not model compensation. Things like mesh modifiers do their job very well as they are designed to do. Vary the infills, wall counts, voids, etc. I use them all the time for the purpose of modifying the way the existing mesh prints, not to compensate for modeling choices. This has be
  18. I am of the school of thought: Make the object the way you want it to print.
  19. I am not sure what the bottom image is...sorry. But I can (hopefully not confuse you) with the brightness issues. It has to do with antialiasing and such. All the image has to do is have a few pixels that are not the same value to make the levels not smooth. You may not see it, but it can be in there. As for thin walls, yes, Cura can only slice for print down to a certain thickness. Try turning on 'print thin walls.' Or just make the image a tiny bit thick in those thin wall areas so Cura can see it for your nozzle size.
  20. I would first assume that there is a difference in colours not perceptible by the naked eye. Was this made with a vector program or bitmap program?
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