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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. Ever just tried to turn off the filament sensor? Setting (Gear symbol)------->Settings------->Scroll down to the flow sensor.....actually, it is secong on the setting area. But, I am not on the S5 Beta. Also, PVA can just be a pain about setting this off because as soon as humidity makes it, by the least amount, pliable, it will give false errors.
  2. I have not. I use a PVA slurry that can be dissolved. If frozen, will cut loose. I have chipped glass with PLA. So, I am thinking it should not be the glass.
  3. Cool....I have not tried it in the 4.0 Beta 2 version, but it really is nice when you want to do a variety of operations such as you describe, or dropping things in for /print in place, etc. Glad you found it! Remember, it stays active in slice operations until you deactivate it. Even if you are doing a new slice. Found this out when I started a new print (after using it in another print AFTER using it in the previous print) when I was just about asleep and heard the printer pause.
  4. That is what the 'Pause at Height" plugin is for.
  5. OK. But, there could be tolerance issues and such that make Cura pick up the line. And, without a model to examine, I am kinda thinking that it prevents anybody from really trying to help as, if they have the experiences I do, it is something not seen in our slices.
  6. I wonder if there is a slight error in the model itself. Can you provide it?
  7. I think it is how it is phrased. I know I run afoul of this many times.
  8. This is a fair point to consider (along with the professional tool). In my case, usually, there is so little to actually splice, and the winding is so tight, it is really only good for cleaning. PVA is different though because it sometimes needs to come off the printer due to water absorption, and that can lead to a significant amount of filament to be saved and spliced. After that, it needs to be thoroughly dried to be of use.
  9. Usually, I roll up some Aluminum foil to cradle the two ends together and heat it with a lighter or candle flame, Usually, I am just splicing rolls of PVA that went soft together and then dry the resulting filament once respooled to one of the older spools. Most PLA and other filaments are run close enough to the end to make them just basic cleaning cleaning filament.
  10. For PVA, you can fuse it. Or, if sufficiently short, can dissolve in water and add a bit of isopropyl to it for a very nice slurry for print adhesion. Other filaments can be fused as well. You just have to make sure that it is not: 1. Burned and made hard. It does have to bend and B) It maintains a proper diameter so it will travel through the bowden tube easily. This also goes for PVA If memory serves me correctly, there are several devices that can be found on the interwebby for doing this, or at least help with the process. I just usually keep some of the filament ends to assist with hot and cold pulls.
  11. It works for me. I will be posting a pre-post processing print soon with Colorfabb's PLA/PHA. I just seem to have better luck with PVA than most for some reason. Still gives me fits sometimes, but overall much better than most. Dunno why.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Edit: By and large, I use Matterhackers PVA due to expense. I do use UM PVA too, I just save it for certain projects.....Works awesome with the UM materials.
  12. Awesome! :) . The one thing you can do with the old PVA is to dissolve it in water and use it for PVA slurry for bed adhesion. I do this and then add some isopropyl alcohol to it to thin it a bit and make it level out better. I apply it with a brush. This has been my go to bed adhesion method and works really well. I also make sure the glass is really clean first.
  13. Did you not keep it in a dry box with desiccant? It is a great way to preserve it long term. I am surprised you cannot resuscitate it. Edit: I am glad you found the problem though. 🙂
  14. That is good to hear. 🙂 I wondered if that was why it sliced well for me. Seems to be the answer. To me then, this points to an upgrade issue with Cura?
  15. I cannot agree with this. That is like saying that not taking care of any other issue will cause problems and therefore, everything else is at fault when the root cause is user error. My ABS is not sticking to the PVA!!! My PP does not stick like PLA!!, etc. etc. All false equivalencies in the idea that everything can be compensated for. @Digibike is on the right track to dealing with an issue with something other than "It ain't all perfect." It takes into account the occasional user error, or, repeated user error as well as other issues that can arise. Nothing meant negative about it, but the root of your argument relies on UM taking every possible user error into consideration. I just do not agree with that.
  16. Interesting idea. But to be honest, I have not had parts tear off the print. When I first started I did have issues with plate adhesion and some things came loose, dragging the part around and creating the super clog. Once I solved my adhesion issues, the problem went away completely.
  17. Threads exist for a variety of reasons. By this reasoning, I am the greatest elephant hunter in NYC. Why? Because there are none around. Not really a rigorous explanation. Sounds like a recurring issue for you regardless of machine or hotend. Also, the 'super clogs' posted are not because of the hotend. It is because parts come loose, get dragged around and the material backs up into the mechanism. This is not a nozzle or hotend issue. This is 99% of the time, poor adhesion to the buildplate. This does not mean that things will not happen, but for the mechanism to fail on its own is actually rare.
  18. Anything to back that up? Been working fine for me since inception.
  19. It seems to have separated a bit on a 'thin' area where it would build on, but then seemed to recover and actually support the area it needed to support. The real question is what does it look like when the PVA is dissolved? Ultimately, that is the only real question: What does it look like when the PVA is dissolved?
  20. Tested it out. It seems on my installation (4.0 Beta 2) it 'holds' the z position once aligning to the flat surface. This was consistent wherever I put it. In this case, I moved it above the plate.
  21. Maybe the message should just be more inclusive so there is no disparity between online and in Cura? Edited because I cannot type worth a damn these days....
  22. Depends on the model involved. My stuff is usually delicate and spindly in nature. So, PVA for me so far. My stuff is more art oriented and not functional parts like most people's stuff..... If solid and not delicate, you may want to try the breakaway material.
  23. Not generally. At some point, it may get caught in the other material and create little holes that make the model not watertight. But my experience so far with the TPLA is that it has not created this issue for me since TPLA was released. So far, I have only used the UM TPLA. This is one material I really like and see no reason to go with other brands. Also, remember, PVA is just a pain to print with even in the best of circumstances. This is a link to a post that addresses an issue that may arise because of, well, several reasons:
  24. The brim only will work with the fact that the model comes off clean when dissolved. As far as the PVA having strings/blemishes, it is not an issue as long as it does not interfere with the other material. The only time to really have a worry about PVA is when it gets lacy and not printing a solid wall.
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